Battery cut off

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JungleGus
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Wed Oct 14, 2020 10:12 am

Does anyone have any pics of a nice tidy installation of a battery cutoff in a 325i? I'm more interested in it for battery saving purposes rather than motorsport.

Although re-setting the clock every single drive is a PITA....
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flybynite
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Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:06 pm

if you don't specifically want it in reach from the drivers seat I would attach the cut off to one end of the battery lead either under the bonnet or in the boot. Then make a short lead back to the battery or terminal block where it came off.

That way you are not hacking into the original battery wire.
JungleGus
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Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:50 pm

The bonnet sounds most appealing in that case since there is a bit more room to play (with the plastic cover in the boot, there's not much room to the terminal).

Does the battery cable go straight from the positive terminal to the RH turret connection and only then connect to the engine/body loom? Makes sense I guess
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flybynite
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Wed Oct 14, 2020 1:29 pm

JungleGus wrote:
Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:50 pm
The bonnet sounds most appealing in that case since there is a bit more room to play (with the plastic cover in the boot, there's not much room to the terminal).

Does the battery cable go straight from the positive terminal to the RH turret connection and only then connect to the engine/body loom? Makes sense I guess
On mine it looks to go straight, plenty of images of 'battery relocation kits' about. Also this might give you some ideas

https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... ry_In_Boot

:thumb:

Is this a long-term thing or is the battery draining quickly?
JungleGus
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Wed Oct 14, 2020 1:56 pm

Something like this looks about right - also seems to have a cut-off to keep voltage to stereo, although wiring that in may be beyond me

Battery is new and fine, just want to keep it disconnected while in storage for 1-2 months at a time so it doesn't drain - more of a preventative measure

Image
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martauto
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Wed Oct 14, 2020 3:04 pm

I have one on mine which is very similar but it cuts out everything .If I know I wont be using it for a few days then it gets turned off, also it helps to stop the opertunists having a go.
I would like to see a better one from inside the car.

Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
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Satan
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Thu Oct 15, 2020 1:20 pm

JungleGus wrote:
Wed Oct 14, 2020 1:56 pm
Something like this looks about right - also seems to have a cut-off to keep voltage to stereo, although wiring that in may be beyond me

Battery is new and fine, just want to keep it disconnected while in storage for 1-2 months at a time so it doesn't drain - more of a preventative measure

Image
I have this on my E30, yep it can be a pain to reset the clock and the stereo and for the ECU to get its optimal settings back but at least it stops the battery draining.

I have this on the Lotus it was already fitted to the car and its under the front hood.
Screenshot 2020-10-15 at 13.19.02.jpg
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Oct 15, 2020 11:56 pm

Ideally, any cut off switch should be in the battery negative lead, which with a rear mounted battery, confines it to the boot. The switch with the red handle, above, is suitable. These switches are also used in touring caravans as isolators for remote control movers, and recessed housings are available to mount these switches in for a tidy installation.
The clock, radio memory, SI board, etc., ARE what drains the battery, so little point in fitting a switch with a bypass resistor.
Don't forget that if you have the later type of SI board, the batteries will fail after a year or two of cumulative battery disconnection.
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Satan
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Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:55 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
Thu Oct 15, 2020 11:56 pm
Ideally, any cut off switch should be in the battery negative lead, which with a rear mounted battery, confines it to the boot. The switch with the red handle, above, is suitable. These switches are also used in touring caravans as isolators for remote control movers, and recessed housings are available to mount these switches in for a tidy installation.
The clock, radio memory, SI board, etc., ARE what drains the battery, so little point in fitting a switch with a bypass resistor.
Don't forget that if you have the later type of SI board, the batteries will fail after a year or two of cumulative battery disconnection.
Mine is fitted to the negative lead but my battery is under the bonnet half a turn or so and it's disconnected, the issue in my car apart from the long standing around not being driven bit was a parasitic drain on the battery of a dodgy alarm install.

Most issues with battery drain are either an aftermarket/faulty alarm install or a bodged stereo upgrade.
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Oct 18, 2020 10:34 pm

Satan wrote:
Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:55 pm

Mine is fitted to the negative lead but my battery is under the bonnet half a turn or so and it's disconnected, the issue in my car apart from the long standing around not being driven bit was a parasitic drain on the battery of a dodgy alarm install.

Most issues with battery drain are either an aftermarket/faulty alarm install or a bodged stereo upgrade.

Parasitic drain is a current draw from the battery that is intentional by the designers. It's the current drawn by the radio memory, the clock, the instrument cluster memory, the OBC and a working alarm/immobiliser/remote central locking, plus anything else I've forgotten. In a car in normal use, this drain causes no problems, and the battery is replenished within seconds or minutes of starting the car. It only causes problems with cars that are laid up for long periods of time.
What you are describing is an electrical fault.
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ChrisHC
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Sun Oct 18, 2020 11:37 pm

I use a maintenance charger when not using the car for any lengthy period, in a garage with power that is no problem, outside you can get a solar powered one and you can put it inside the car and run the cable out of the door and under the bonnet, the rubber seals accommodate it easily. Having wrecked batteries in the past by allowing them to go flat, I am now quite careful to set it up.
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flybynite
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Mon Oct 19, 2020 9:27 am

ChrisHC wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 11:37 pm
I use a maintenance charger when not using the car for any lengthy period, in a garage with power that is no problem, outside you can get a solar powered one and you can put it inside the car and run the cable out of the door and under the bonnet, the rubber seals accommodate it easily. Having wrecked batteries in the past by allowing them to go flat, I am now quite careful to set it up.
I keep a couple of small Cteks for exactly that and they do very well, but I assume the OP can't leave it connected.

I used to use a solar panel on my E36 M3, it helped but didn't work that well. However, that car was a pig for battery drain and it was a while ago, they should be better now.

Problem is a solar charger tends to advertise the car is parked up and probably won't be missed for a while.
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Satan
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Mon Oct 19, 2020 12:16 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 10:34 pm
Satan wrote:
Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:55 pm

Mine is fitted to the negative lead but my battery is under the bonnet half a turn or so and it's disconnected, the issue in my car apart from the long standing around not being driven bit was a parasitic drain on the battery of a dodgy alarm install.

Most issues with battery drain are either an aftermarket/faulty alarm install or a bodged stereo upgrade.

Parasitic drain is a current draw from the battery that is intentional by the designers. It's the current drawn by the radio memory, the clock, the instrument cluster memory, the OBC and a working alarm/immobiliser/remote central locking, plus anything else I've forgotten. In a car in normal use, this drain causes no problems, and the battery is replenished within seconds or minutes of starting the car. It only causes problems with cars that are laid up for long periods of time.
What you are describing is an electrical fault.
It was fault, a fault with the shite alarm that was draining far too much, I tested and worked out where the train was and eliminated the problem. Was a sparks and network engineer in the past so used to being able to fault find certain things out.
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Satan
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Mon Oct 19, 2020 12:19 pm

ChrisHC wrote:
Sun Oct 18, 2020 11:37 pm
I use a maintenance charger when not using the car for any lengthy period, in a garage with power that is no problem, outside you can get a solar powered one and you can put it inside the car and run the cable out of the door and under the bonnet, the rubber seals accommodate it easily. Having wrecked batteries in the past by allowing them to go flat, I am now quite careful to set it up.
Do not leave the charger in the engine bay of the car or in the car as on a Lotus forum a guy had one left it in the car and it failed, started a fire and totalled the car (a nice low mileage S1) it was written off and damaged the garage and could of burnt the house down.
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ChrisHC
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Mon Oct 19, 2020 12:59 pm

That's a useful warning. Perhaps also a warning against buying very cheap electrical products, there are a lot of very shoddy items of all sorts about now
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Oct 19, 2020 1:39 pm

Satan wrote:
Mon Oct 19, 2020 12:16 pm

Was a sparks and network engineer in the past so used to being able to fault find certain things out.
I know - we're both on the ElectriciansForums.net . You have a different user name on there, but posted a pic. of your white cab. once, which got my attention.
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Satan
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Mon Oct 19, 2020 8:55 pm

ChrisHC wrote:
Mon Oct 19, 2020 12:59 pm
That's a useful warning. Perhaps also a warning against buying very cheap electrical products, there are a lot of very shoddy items of all sorts about now
It was a Sealey unit.......
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