Electric Soft top issues!

[jaginsligo]

Hi, so I havent used my softtop in a while but when we had our summer yesterday here in Ireland I decided to open the roof. Now I am having issues with the horseshoe motor as it is (plastic cog seems to be stripped) but when I released the roof and pressed the button nothing happens.
I was trying to check if the fuse is blown but cant seem to fine which one it is for the eletric softtop. Everything else works OK.

Any help would be great

[jaginsligo]

Ok, as I didnt know which fuses are used I checked them all and they are fine. Next to check the microswithces. The 1st one is just above the drivers sun visor, it tells if the roof latches have been released. I have located this switch by removing the trim where the sun visor is but Im not sure how to test it. here a picture of it https://www.flickr.com/photos/144086740 ... res/rd31A3 I thought the 2 rusty solder joints would be the test points with a multimeter but it shows open circuit all the time. Dont see a plug socket on the cable either.

Anybody any idea how to test this switch.
Thanks in advance

[Brianmoooore]

I know NOTHING about E30 electric soft tops - I've never knowingly even seen an E30 fitted with one, but I have dealt with hundreds of micro switches in my time.

That looks like a standard V4 lever operated miniature micro switch, readily available from many sources.
Your 'rusty solder joints' are most probably the mounting holes, and the rust is probably the remains of two star type securing clips.
These micro switches have three terminals, although if one isn't required it may be cut off flush, and in this case it looks like it may be a waterproof (IP55, IP65 or similar) version, with the terminals and connections to the wires fully enclosed.
The three terminals are common, normally open and normally closed. One wire will be connected to 'common', and the other wire could be connected to either, depending on what the circuit designer wanted.
As for testing the switch, if you can find the end of the wires, then good, but test connections are often made to car wiring by pushing fine needles through the insulation of the wire and into the copper. The two wires should be open circuit between them, and go short circuit when the switch is pressed, OR short circuit between the two wires, going open circuit when the switch is pressed.
A healthy click from the switch when it is operated is a good sign.

[jaginsligo]

thanks for the info on the switches Brian Moore, using thin pins to penetrate the insulation is a good idea must have a go. And I think your right about the solder joints been the mounting points as there are no other physical signs of how it is attached.

Thanks again