high Hydro carbons

[hass]

Hi guys
I've gotten to the point now that I'm thinking
Of just leaving it as it is.
I've recently fully restored my sport and
Rebuilt the engine with a 2.8 stroker
It's a 1990 325i
M52 or m50 Crank
130 mm rods
High comp pistons
Kent high lift cam 270°
Bbtb
I was using the 3.5 injectors but now put
Original 2.5 ones back in.

For the love of money I can't get the damn hcs down
On idle it's at 7-800ppm
Fast idle 200
I've tried everything
Fuel pressure regulator
Airflow
Idle control
Checked for airleaks
Coolant temp
It just won't go down
My mixture screw is full closed on the Airflow

I also tried another Ecu
Im using a custom chip too
It was an auto but I converted it to manual
If it makes a difference

I dunno if it was the same before the restoration
Never checked the emissons before.


Any ideas

Thanks

[hass]

Any ideas guys???

[bosers]

Is the tps a manual one?

[hass]

I dunno mate
Its the round plug one

[bosers]

I had some running issues with mine. I was running an auto tps (I think it had round plug) but I had an Ecu from a manual, so had to get loom altered and fit manual tps which I think has only three pins as opposed to six? on auto tps. This really improved the running. You may be having same issue? Sorry can't be more specific about wiring as a mate helped me with it.

[Brianmoooore]

The engine TPS section of the 6 pin auto TPS is exactly the same electrically as the 3 pin manual version.
HC will be high with both a rich (simply to much petrol to burn for the available oxygen) or weak mixture (Not enough oxygen to burn all the available petrol, so some gets through unburnt.)
To determine which you need the other gas results, especially CO.

[bosers]

That's interesting Brian, maybe I had another issue with mine? It did seem that wiring up a manual tps with the manual Ecu seemed to help. Interested to know how this works out.

[bosers]

The mate of mine who helped me out is an ex BMW Master tech. He said there was a different output from the auto tps, think he said something about wavelengh? It means nothing to me, not something I understand at all but what he did seemed to help with my auto to manual conversion. Does this sound right to you Mr Mooooore?

[Brianmoooore]

Sounds like total bollox!

[bosers]

I may well have miss remembered this, my head is full of holes but I think that's what he said. Just interested to see if this may be of help.

[bosers]

I think he said that the switches are the same but the wiring to the motronic unit differs slightly between auto and manual cars?

[hass]

Hi guys
My emmissons as follows
Co 5.118%
Coc 5.25%
Co2 10.22%
O2 2.42%
Hc 1596 ppm
That's on idle

[Brianmoooore]

All that points to an A/F ratio in the region of 11 -12, rather than the effects of any misfire. Running rich.

[hass]

Hi brain thanks for the reply
There no misfire in fact she accelerates perfect
It runs a bit lumpy on idle though
What could I do to fix the a f ratio

[daviekiwi]

I have seen faulty air flow meter cause this fault.
cylinder leakage test worth doing and correct set up of camshaft timing also very important with high lift cam.

[hass]

Hi daviekiwi
How would I do the timing on the cam
Shouldn't it all be on the original timing marks
Or is it different when a high lift cam I'd used
I'm using a Kent cam 270*
how will I check cylinder leaks
With a compression tedter ?
Thanks

[daviekiwi]

If standard cam timing is not recommended for your cam
Kent cams will keep you right and should give you the number of degrees after tdc when your inlet valve is fully open.
you will need a dial gauge and timing disc to check this.

leakage test involves compressed air into each cylinder via spark plug hole, when the valves on that cylinder are closed.
any leakage can be heard through inlet manifold or exhaust

that's the basics really

[hass]

Been on Kent cams website
This is what I found hope it makes sense to you guys

Timing: 27 /70 70/ 27
Full lift: inlet 111 deg atdc
Ltdc:1.57mm inlet

Could this be my issues
And what do I need to do

[hass]

Any ideas guys

[hass]

I've been on this for the last couple of days
I still can't get the hc down
Tryed adjusting the tappets
Changed spark plugs
Reset throttle
Still the same sh*t
I've had enough
I really don't know what else to do

[gromgsxr]

was your custom chip actually mapped on your car/engine? have you tried a different or standard chip.

[hass]

It's a chipped done for my engine wasn't done on the car
I've tried another ecu and tried my original chip aswell
Still the same
It's pushing me to breaking point

[daviekiwi]

don't waste your money throwing parts at it, you will be cheaper in the long run getting
some one in the know to check it out.
I would still stab a guess at air flow meter fault or checking the timing of your high lift cam, and cylinder leakage test.
I would be happy to help but am marooned on Scottish island full of sheep and tractors

[hass]

Right guys
I'm still messing around with the problem.
What I've noticed is
If I pull out cylinder 1 ht lead the car wants to stall
But when I pull of cylinder 2-6 it hesitates a little
But don't feel like it wants to stall
I've checked my Compression on 1 2 3 cylinders
And they are the same
Could it be my distrubitor and rotar arm
Or leads
I've ordered a cap and rotar arm
Which I'll change in the morning

But what puzzles me
Is it drives spot on
Just on idle it's a bit lumpy and hcs are sky high
Cheers guys