Brake Pipe Replacement

[DemonDaz]

So the damn E30 has failed the MOT on Brake pipes - front to rear and both sides at the rear.

Is there a wiki on replacing this as I can't find one. Can it be done without dropping subframe?

Is there a way to do it with running a different route to the original? help!

Local Garages want far too much for this and I don't need the car on the road so can sit on axle stands for a while but I just want to make sure I take a sensible route to replacing them.

I have seen the flare kit Brian has recommended, what pipe bending tool should I use to prevent pinching the pipe?

All help appreciated - I have searched the forums but cannot seem to find anything about the whole process and the workshop manual is as good as useless (Take off, measure length, bend to match and put back - never going to be that easy!).

[Brianmoooore]

Kunifer pipe is easy to bend without kinking - just roll it around a socket for a neat bend.
It can be done without dropping the fuel tank (not subframe) and re-routing a couple of pipes, but it's better to drop the tank out of the way and tidy up the whole area at the same time.
Change all the hard pipe, the flexibles and the U clips that hold the ends of the flexibles in place.
Just cut everything off, leaving the tee piece, which is easier to remove with the pipes out of the way. The tee piece is the only bit worth re using.
Make up the longer pipes first, then when you find that you've forgotten to put one of the ends on before flaring it, you can cut the end off, and make one of the shorter pipes from it.

[daimlerman]

Replace the lot at the same time!

Do the front/rear from the pressure limiting valve (under the master) and replace all four(rear disc cars)flexi's,probably the three way fitting if it will not clean up.It may be possible to get to the three way at the rear without disturbing the axle carrier,the flexi over the axle carrier can be done,but it's an 'orrible fiddly job.
You may need to lower the axle carrier a little at the o/s,in theory slacking the bolt off and letting gravity do it's thing is enough,in practice the upper part of the bush will have siezed to the underbody and the bloody thing will not move at all....but on the bright side it's nice and warm outside,so laying under a car properly supported on axle stands for a snooze will be quite pleasant.

[DemonDaz]

Cheers Guys, looks like it will be a steady job but no rush although I would like to get it on the road before all the sun goes again - damn Cabriolets always go wrong when the sun is shining!

[DemonDaz]

Now i know this was going to be a long slow job BUT I was not expecting it to start so badly. Loosened the wheel nuts to remove rear wheels and struggled - got all of them off but the last Locking wheel nut has fallen to pieces. It is an old McGard nut and the moulding on the outside that the ket goes into has completely sheared off the nut. The inside flower is there but nothing will grab onto that. There is a little bit of a collar showing that I am trying to get a laser locking wheel nut removal tool onto without much luck.

Maybe time to try to drill it out

[Brianmoooore]

The inside flower is there but nothing will grab onto that.

.
Might with a bit of added weld. Ideally, weld on a complete hex. nut.

[bodger]

or bash an undersized socket onto whats left, never failed me yet

[DemonDaz]

I contacted the manufacturer (McGard) and they are going to send me the tools they use to remove them when this happens as long as I agree to sent them back when finished, can't say fairer than that. Will update on what they send and how it works when they arrive.

[Cloggy Saint]

They'll probably send you a hammer and an undersized socket