hello Zoners,
can anyone shed some light my way,
ive got an E30 325i touring, the problem is that every now and then the ABS light stays on, the thing is whilst the light is on the car seems to brake ok (just no abs), but then sometimes the abs light stays off, and when i brake the abs kicks in every time i brake.
i dont fancy stripping the whole system, but i will if i have to.
im just hoping that someone else has experienced this and knows whats wrong.
bryan
Abs question
Moderator: martauto
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Martinaston
- E30 Zone Addict
- Posts: 3749
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: London
It may be something as simple as dirt in the splines on the wheel hubs and just needs a good clean.
The next easy thing to check is the resistance of the sensors, unplug the white connectors just before the wire goes through the front wheel arches and check the resistance is about 1 kilo ohm with a mutimeter. The rear ones are under the back seat. (pain to get to in a touring)
The next easy thing to check is the resistance of the sensors, unplug the white connectors just before the wire goes through the front wheel arches and check the resistance is about 1 kilo ohm with a mutimeter. The rear ones are under the back seat. (pain to get to in a touring)
There is NO nucleus.
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e30nerd
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 459
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: CAMBRIDGESHIRE
- Contact:
my old touring had a similar problem where the light would stay on. Sometimes it would also just give a couple of kicks of the pedal when you first applied the brakers after starting moving.
It was one of the sensors. Fronts are easy to repalce as they just unclip from the loom on the inner wing, and 1 allen key bolt and they come out.
The rears are under the seat and are a bit fiddly to get to as they are under the palstic cable cover that stops them getting pinched under the seat.
BEWARNED - there are left and right versions (and they look identical) but they are not interchangable from left to right. I got a set from the breakers and put them ibn the wrong way around first time. Took me months to get my head around why they didn't work.
As Martin said, check the 'toothed' rim on the back of the brake disc as well to make sure it is clean and not missing any teeth.
It was one of the sensors. Fronts are easy to repalce as they just unclip from the loom on the inner wing, and 1 allen key bolt and they come out.
The rears are under the seat and are a bit fiddly to get to as they are under the palstic cable cover that stops them getting pinched under the seat.
BEWARNED - there are left and right versions (and they look identical) but they are not interchangable from left to right. I got a set from the breakers and put them ibn the wrong way around first time. Took me months to get my head around why they didn't work.
As Martin said, check the 'toothed' rim on the back of the brake disc as well to make sure it is clean and not missing any teeth.
Perfect explanation, do that and i can almost garantee one of the sensors will give a duff reading, replace and the problem will be solved.Martinaston wrote:It may be something as simple as dirt in the splines on the wheel hubs and just needs a good clean.
The next easy thing to check is the resistance of the sensors, unplug the white connectors just before the wire goes through the front wheel arches and check the resistance is about 1 kilo ohm with a mutimeter. The rear ones are under the back seat. (pain to get to in a touring)