pedalbox/brake linkage recondition? 250k miles

Sun Oct 16, 2011 2:52 am

Hi everyone

Has anyone attempted replacing all of the bushes/pivot pins? i assume that this is what is causing the play... i have about 2cm of linkage play (holding the master rod still thats how far the pedal can move.

Thanks

Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:32 am

'Play' in brake linkage doesn't matter, since you only ever apply force in one direction.
Slacken off the lock nuts and turn rod 11 using a 7mm open ended spanner on the flats near the clutch pedal to adjust it until the brake pedal only has a small bit of upwards free movement to its stop. One end of 11 has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.

Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:34 am

17mm spanner,IIRC!

Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:44 am

17mm for the lock nuts; 7mm for the rod itself.

Mon Oct 17, 2011 1:34 pm

is the rod threaded on both sides? like wouldnt that just thread the rod out of one clevis(is that the word) into the other? my mate told me you want to take the pin out of one and dislodge it then spin the nut/clevis.

not saying you are wrong i just want to be 100% sure before i get into this.

Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:01 pm

Yes. If Brian says adjust the rod, adjust the rod ;)

Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:38 pm

Brianmoooore wrote: One end of 11 has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.

Tue Oct 18, 2011 4:57 am

Brianmoooore wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote: One end of 11 has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.

WHAT??

thanks

guess i should take time to read.

now i am probably going to get my arse kicked or be shunned for being this stupid buuut..

To reduce the play i would want to extend the linkage out so that the pedal linkages are raised thus reducing the play... right?

Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:31 am

Wrong! It's a pull rod, not a push rod, so it needs to be shortened.

Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:12 am

ok ive shortened it to the point where the clevis? perfectly lines up on both ends with the pedal at stock height. play seems a tiny bit better but i might be imagining it. there is still some free play however it is better than before.

Would i want to take it further and start to put pressure on it? trying to think it in my head (im not a mechanical person) i figured doing so would cause the master side to be pulled towards the centre of the car closing the MC, or it could pull the brake pedal side pushing the pedal linkages up

again sorry to pester you to spell it out for me but i just want to be sure.

Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:34 pm

What do you mean by "stock height"? There's a small rubber buffer on the lowest part of the bracket that holds the brake light switch, and the rod should be shortened until the arm of the pedal all but touches this buffer.
If you over tighten things, so that the pedal is touching the buffer and moving the master cylinder push rod, the brakes are likely to lock on.

Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:50 am

my pedalbox has no buffer im fairly sure

ive adjusted the brake sensor sucessfully before too

I have a video of the pedal viewable here

a stopper would solve this problem actually as setting the middle linkage to have 0 offset fixed my main problem.

There is also another adjustable rod that goes on the booster that i can adjust to get it closer.

Wed Oct 26, 2011 6:49 am

i fixed my gripes by adding a stopper. yay!

but without your help it still would have been shite so thanks!