Completly dead central locking

[Nolly227]

Now ive got the old girl on the road again, I'd thought I would try and tackle the central locking.

It has never worked since Ive owned the car, it came with the standard manufacturer imobilizer and key remote fob.

When arming the key fob, the car flashes indicating its primed and the imobilizer will light up however, the central locking won't work at all! Ive looked into the red/black mod and from what I can see it looks like It might of been done but like I mentioned the central locking is comepltely dead and will not actiavte in any locks including the boot. Ive changed the central locking module but still no joy not even a clicking sound from the relay. So any suggestions?

Another thing is the drivers door lock has worn so it will unlock but not lock so do I take it the easiest thing would be just to change the lock for a new one or is there a way of fixing the exsisting one?

cheers



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

(Wiring from C/L module plus Mysterious plug)







(The wiring around the plug which looks very tacky)




(A Closer look, Can upload better photos if need be)

Really stumped with this so any help appreciated

[d1mkaz]

Ive looked into the red/black mod and from what I can see it looks like It might of been done but like I mentioned the central locking is comepltely dead and will not actiavte in any locks including the boot.

so, that plug, which is on 3rd picture, did you take it off? The other part of the plug is important, you have to push it inside the car, and take it out through the speaker hole. Then you'll see is Red/Black mod done or not. If there is no Red/Black wires going in to it, then it's done. If the wires still there, cut them (3 on cabby, 2 on rest) and join together.
BTW check where red/black wires go after the door plug, one should go to relay, 2 or 1 other not sure, somewhere deep

[daimlerman]

I have found that door lock mechanical problems are either the lock barrel or/and the latching mechanisam.

System works by mechanicaly locking the driver's door,this operates the C/L solinod which in turn electricaly locks the other doors etc.Deadlocks are triggered via a micro switch on the lock barrel retaining plate.

I would start by removing the barrel(large 'C' clip on the back,wriggle out from the outside)check it's action is free.The locking arm on the end of the barrel breaks at it's pivot end,not always apparant until you take the thing to pieces!
Easy repair here is a lock repair kit from your dealer for about £20,you get a bag of bits to build a new barrel to suit your own key.

Next up is the latching gear,three screws in the door jamb and move the rear glass channel out of your way,one 8mm bolt at the bottom of the door,then swear at the linkage rods to the internal handle and cill button until it all falls apart.Clean and re-oil the latch,work it until it is smooth and free,re-assemble with loads of swearing at the linkage,re-fit the lock and marvel at how light and smooth the action now is!

[DaveD]

might help


this is a chart (?) of the wires going into the door


Pin Colour Function
1 GN/WT Fuse 19 PWR to mirrors + Interior light cancel
2 br Interior light GND door handle switch
3 RD Interior light timer; central lock control PWR
4
5 BU/BK PWR passenger window motor
6 BU/WT PWR passenger mirror motor
7 WT/BK Switched PWR to passenger mirror clutch
8 BR GND central lock control, double lock
9 BU PWR/return door lock motor
10 WT Return/PWR door lock motor
11 YL/BU Lock request
12 GR/BU Unlock request
13 VI PWR window motor
14 BK PWR window motor
15 RD/BK Interior light timer; central lock PWR
16
17 RD/BR Double lock request
18 GN/WH Fuse 19 PWR interior light cancel
19 BR/GR Interior light enable
20 GY/GN Radio speaker
21 GY/YL Radio speaker


note: colours BK=black, BR=brown, RD=red, YL=yellow, GN=green, BL=blue, VI=violet, GY=grey, WT=white

note2: colours not used in all years/models, this is a general guide only!

note3: some cars have lock heaters, some have interior light timers, probably in an either or situation.

[Nolly227]

Cheers for the advice guys and for the wire colour chart DaveD. I had another look today around the plug and managed to unplug it and to what I can see there was a loud of water ingrease and corrosion around the plug and the pins on each side of the plug it also looks like the one the small pins on the A pillar plug had perishsed away. I think this might be the reason to my trouble as both electirc mirros dont work and drivers side interior light doesnt work either. I'll upload some photos sometime tommorow.

So my next question is if this is the case and the plug is the reason how difficult will it be to remove the old plug and re wire a new one and is this going to be a pricey part from BMW?

[DaveD]

The easiest way is to find a decent plug and wires from a scrapper . Cut the old wires behind the plug and bullet them to the replacement..I did this and found it time consuming but easy...so long as you leave plenty of length of wire on the replacement plug

[Nolly227]

Right so far no luck at the breakers for an old E30 A pillar plug and none on fleebay so still searching if anyone has got one lying around from a 2 door? Im gonna investigate the red/black mod further tonight as I didn't fully understand it before however I don't think its the cause to my trouble.

Easy repair here is a lock repair kit from your dealer for about £20,you get a bag of bits to build a new barrel to suit your own key. !

Thanks for the info on that daimlerman! Ive orderd a kit from my dealer but would you mind telling me how it enables you to fix the old lock and carry on using the exsisting key? I know that its something to do with the tumblers on the exsisting lock, so is it a matter of just swapping them over to the new lock that comes with the kit and re fitting?

[daimlerman]

Remove your old lock barrel first.This gives you an idea of what you are aiming to build from the bag of bits.

I build these things up on the kitchen worktop,I wait until the wife has either gone to work or off shopping....but I do place a sheet of newspaper down first...

Start by dismantling the old barrel,there is an instruction sheet with the lock kit but your German will need to be shithot to understand it,mine is'nt.

So remove the roll pin from the locking arm and lay the bits out in the order that they come off,note there is a tiny roller in the latching gear.

The cylinder just slides out of the barrel,each tumbler is marked with a code number,lay them out in the order that they are in the cylinder.

Assemble the new cylinder first,springs and tumblers,then insert your key to make sure that it pulls all the tumblers down so that the cylinder slides into the barrel.Removing the key will fix the cylinder in place.

There is an internet guide to assembling these things that you could do with reading through first,'Gooner1' posted a link up for it only a few days ago,so it's in a similar 'door lock' thread a few pages back,have a hunt for it.

Like most things E30,this kit will assemble in a logical way,
once you understand how the thing works.

[DaveD]

I know Sweep has a few he's breaking give him a try

[Nolly227]

I know Sweep has a few he's breaking give him a try

I shall do that cheers

And thanks for again for the advice on lock repair daimlerman hopefully get that sorted tommorow

[ProToZyKo]

You can take out the corroded pins and changed the worst ones, they are expensive, so try to save as many as possible.

Option 2 cut the wires of the corroded pins and join them together on the door side, should be a hole in the A pillar plug to get the wires through. I had to do this on one wire since i was out of pins