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dazleeds
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 6:36 pm

ok guys just changed inlet manifold and fitted 325i tb :cool:
also had to change a couple of pipes while i was there
finnaly got it all back together recently had new t stat etc
but yes the fooker got an airlock somewhere :cry: :cry: got car upto halfway on gauge which is higher than usual as she always runs at a quarter

tried my method of bleeding and all im getting is steam from the bleed screw and volcanoes every time i remove expansion cap gutted
all pipes are warming up and heater is fine for a while but then cools down again :cry: :cry:

anyone got a sure fire way of bleeding the system???????
HELP HELP HELP Dazleeds
Last edited by dazleeds on Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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dazleeds
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 6:43 pm

come on people need my car sorted so i can give it a blast and see what all the 325tb hype is about :lol:
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smithy318i
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 6:43 pm

Have you tried forcing more water through the system by the use of a hosepipe?

It worked on my 205
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dazleeds
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 6:44 pm

no hose pipe mate :cry: :cry:

misses changed kitchen now fook all fits the taps usually goes after a while with bleeding but it aint stopping this time :cry:
temp on gauge isnt going over half but bottle is bubbling like a freshly broke virgin :lol:
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stevo
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 6:54 pm

ive heard quite a few people say bm's are a nightmare to bleed, my head gasket went and kept getting told "just keep bleeding it!" :cry:
Andy335Touring
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 7:20 pm

Is the heater warm at tick over then goes cold when you rev it ?

Have you had the heater pipes off at the bulk head ?
dazleeds
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 7:28 pm

Andy335Touring wrote:Is the heater warm at tick over then goes cold when you rev it ?

Have you had the heater pipes off at the bulk head ?
yes and yes mate pipes were shagged so had to change the big one that goes from heater to tstat and xpansion bottle

getting really fooked off with it now never had this much grief before bleeding em just walked away to stop myself smashing the bstard with a hammer lol
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Andy335Touring
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 7:35 pm

Is there a chance you have put the heater pipes on the wrong way around ?
dazleeds
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 7:37 pm

dnt think so did double check em but will go have a quick look now as i have another 320i on the drive back in 5 :cool:
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dazleeds
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 7:41 pm

double checked mate and the big hose is going to the top pipe on bulkhead same as my other car
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Andy335Touring
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 8:11 pm

Is the little breather pipe that goes from the top of the rad to the expansion(sp?) blocked ?

I normally top up/flush like this......

1. ignition and heater on
2. fill the rad and block as much as possible via the rad top hose
3. put the pipe back on the rad
4. open the bleed valve
5. top up the header tank all the way to the top or until water comes out of the bleed valve, close valve
6. leave the cap off the tank and start the engine
7. as the engine starts to warm rev the engine to 2-3k rpm and squeez the top hose to work any air out of the system, open bleed valve and check for air
8. after 2-3 mins you will have to put the cap on to stop the water comming out
9. keep an eye on the heat out put of the heater,temp gauge and check the bleed valve for air.
10. when the gauge starts showing around the 1/3 mark check the top and the bottom hose for how hot they are so you can make sure the thermostat has opened.
11. check for leaks when fully up to temp
12. if all is well take it for a spin
13. wait for it to cool properly and check the water level again

You probobly know all this stuf mate but it might help some one out who is in a similar postion
Simon
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 8:12 pm

Have you left the car to cool down again?

Leave it to cool, top up again, also try topping up through the thermostat housing where the top hose goes. Start it, leave it get upto temp again, and bleed it again. I've done this countless times now, and have always had the same problems!!
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dazleeds
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 8:16 pm

that is pretty much how i did it but will give it another go in the morning as im really not in the mood to go near the car at the moment :cry:

cheers for ya help mate you never know if i do it iin ur exact order it may work tommorows another day as they say cheers andy :cheers:

so much for the tb being a great mod :lol: :lol:
it was supposed to smooth the engine out but its now doing zero mph :cry: :cry:
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Martinaston
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 8:57 pm

I found the best way with the M20 is to fill it from cold with the bleed screw open and just slowly fill it, giving it time to run through the rad and into the block. I can normally get almost ten litres in without even starting the engine.
Make sure the heater is set to hot and give all the pipes you can reach a squeeze especially the matrix feed. It will help prevent that getting an airlock if you park it facing uphill.
If you have an extra pair of hands to help fill the expansion tank to the brim then close the bleed screw while squeezing the very top hose as much as you can to push all the air out. when you let go of the pipe you should see the level drop in the tank.
Then the real test is to trun it on and watch it warm up. while doing that top up the tank if it drops then go for a spin to get the thermostat working a couple of times, then let it cool down and check the level again.
If you open the bleed screw again only do it with the engine running and at working temp with the filler cap in place :thumb:
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Gwynleym10
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 9:27 pm

Oh the troubles of m20s!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

With M10s are so easy takes about 10 mins!
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touring170
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 pm

best way to fill is slowly fill the bottle with the bleed screw out till it runs from there then fit the bleed screw and fill the bottle 2 the top now squeeze the bottom hose ov the rad really tight in and out slowly and watch the air bubble up in the bottle and the level full try it m8 i tried all the other ways and they were shite this way was the only way that worked first time and it's all my own thinking good luck?
Karan
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Thu Aug 18, 2005 11:05 pm

ensure heater pipe from back of head goes to lower heater plastic pipe.....

i had probs with this with my tourer!
now having probs with pipes at front leaking!!!.....
cheers
Karan
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Fri Aug 19, 2005 10:34 am

Never had problems...
My method:

Fill the system via the bottle with the bleed screw open and the heater on full hot (v. important).
Close bleed screw and start the engine leaving the heater on full hot and the filler cap off.
now open the bleed screw, and wait until the bubbles stop.
Fit the cap, let the engine warm up to normal (ie, thermostat open) and bleed again...

Job done
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dazleeds
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Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:32 pm

:cool:

well ive just been out drained system again and spent the last hour bleeding again just been for a very hard but short drive and temp so far seems fine :woohoo:

just waiting for engine to cool down now then will recheck the water level and hopefully thats that cheers to all that advised above :cheers: :thumb:

in the end i fully drained and filled the system from each pipe got car upto temp and released the air then waited till heaters were burning my hands at vents then released the air again and left to idle for 5mins longer then held the revs around 2k for a couple of mins then again released the air took it back upto 2k and checked water and had settled on same level
went for spin and alls well :woohoo:

one more check just to be sure when engine has cooled so sometime today i will find out how the 325tb benefits the car must admit did feel slighly better up the revs and mine is in desperate need of a service and tune up so hopefully when i get to doing that will feel much smoother :cool:
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