Hi all
I am going with a friend this Sunday who is buying a 1998 540 Touring.
Anything he should know? Any known issues?
Cheers
Mahmood
1998 540 Touring - Questions
Moderator: martauto
Issues that I know of and rough prices to fix them, DIY.
Shimmeying front is usually the front track control arm bushes. Don't get fobbed off its wheel balancing. £120
Coolant systems are quite sensitive. Check the level by unscrewing that cap. The 'float' should be level with the cap.
Rear subframe bushes are starting to wear out. You might get a loud clunk that sounds like an exhaust not attached properly. This occurs when going over road wide potholes(think BT digging up phonelines). £250 including hire of a tool.
Dashboard will likely be pixelated around the mileage and high OBC area. A drive to southampton and £80 will see that right.
Exhausts should be all good. Full stainless system as standard.
Fuel gauge may read empty, fairly easy DIY fix. £0.
They like a cam sensor apparently, but it is going to be difficult to diagnose that on a test drive!
Handbrakes can be adjusted badly(like an e30), and will have scored the disks beyond repair. £85-250 dependant on brands.
Rocker cover gaskets weep £40
Engine should probably be a NON vanos unit with a cable throttle. It should idle fairly low once warm, around 550-700 would be normal. It should get up to temperature much quick than a 325i but stay dead level in the middle. Anything else and the cooling system needs looking at.
Check air con, it should be ice cold with it set to 16 degrees and the centre vents(above radio) set to full blue.
Check everything electrical, and I do mean everything. Things like cruise control, traction control and ABS are all going to be fairly expensive to sort, but DIYable.
I presume it is an Auto? Not really sure what to check here, sorry.
Ideally the fluid needs a change about now(10 years / 80-120k) even though BMW says it is a sealed for life unit.
The engines are not as torquey as you might think, to get them really moving, 3500+ is required.
Being a 1998 it is probably pre facelift, so orange front and back indicators and non ANAL eyes. If you want to change the lot over to the facelift stuff, au revior to £400 if you do it properly. Check HID headlamps auto aim if it has HIDS. When turned on the go up and down.
Check the rear end isn't sagging as it will have auto levelling suspension which is a rather expensive airbag setup. It is a heavy car, so it is going to be fairly hard on brake and suspension componants, so budget a bit to sort out gremlins you won't pick up on a test drive.
Hope that helps Mahmood, They really are cracking cars for the money. A very understated car that needs something properly quick to embarass it.
Regards Jon
Shimmeying front is usually the front track control arm bushes. Don't get fobbed off its wheel balancing. £120
Coolant systems are quite sensitive. Check the level by unscrewing that cap. The 'float' should be level with the cap.
Rear subframe bushes are starting to wear out. You might get a loud clunk that sounds like an exhaust not attached properly. This occurs when going over road wide potholes(think BT digging up phonelines). £250 including hire of a tool.
Dashboard will likely be pixelated around the mileage and high OBC area. A drive to southampton and £80 will see that right.
Exhausts should be all good. Full stainless system as standard.
Fuel gauge may read empty, fairly easy DIY fix. £0.
They like a cam sensor apparently, but it is going to be difficult to diagnose that on a test drive!
Handbrakes can be adjusted badly(like an e30), and will have scored the disks beyond repair. £85-250 dependant on brands.
Rocker cover gaskets weep £40
Engine should probably be a NON vanos unit with a cable throttle. It should idle fairly low once warm, around 550-700 would be normal. It should get up to temperature much quick than a 325i but stay dead level in the middle. Anything else and the cooling system needs looking at.
Check air con, it should be ice cold with it set to 16 degrees and the centre vents(above radio) set to full blue.
Check everything electrical, and I do mean everything. Things like cruise control, traction control and ABS are all going to be fairly expensive to sort, but DIYable.
I presume it is an Auto? Not really sure what to check here, sorry.
Ideally the fluid needs a change about now(10 years / 80-120k) even though BMW says it is a sealed for life unit.The engines are not as torquey as you might think, to get them really moving, 3500+ is required.
Being a 1998 it is probably pre facelift, so orange front and back indicators and non ANAL eyes. If you want to change the lot over to the facelift stuff, au revior to £400 if you do it properly. Check HID headlamps auto aim if it has HIDS. When turned on the go up and down.
Check the rear end isn't sagging as it will have auto levelling suspension which is a rather expensive airbag setup. It is a heavy car, so it is going to be fairly hard on brake and suspension componants, so budget a bit to sort out gremlins you won't pick up on a test drive.
Hope that helps Mahmood, They really are cracking cars for the money. A very understated car that needs something properly quick to embarass it.
Regards Jon
Did these engines have problems with Nikadsil bore linings..... remember a mate having big problems with his similarly aged 740i.......
Nope, that was the previous m60, the m62 was all A OK! One of the big plus points IMO. But to be fair, most of the m60 engines have either been changed or are unlikely to be affected, apart from residual values in some peoples heads.