anybody got any ideas. and thank you if you take the time to read this and reply.
idle air stabiliser valve causing flat spot???
Moderator: martauto
anybody got any ideas. and thank you if you take the time to read this and reply.
confusion is my middle name. but i drive me a damn nice car!!
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E30Adam
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That's a characteristic of the mechanical AFM, you'll find most E30's with an AFM behave in this manner.confusion wrote:my flat spot is right at the bottom of the revs. if i floor it it hesitates for about 1 second then kicks in and rips off.
anybody got any ideas. and thank you if you take the time to read this and reply.

2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch
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Geeman
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Just been out to check mine. Disconnected the ICV contact, started the car and there was no change from normal... idling at just under 900rpm.
Connected it back up, no change. Disconnected it again, no change.
From this, I think that must mean the ICV needs a good clean. Will do it tonight and let you know the outcome...
Giles.
Connected it back up, no change. Disconnected it again, no change.
From this, I think that must mean the ICV needs a good clean. Will do it tonight and let you know the outcome...
Giles.
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E30Adam
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I've found that some ICV's respond to unplugging and plugging in but some just stay the same even if you clean them.Geeman wrote:Just been out to check mine. Disconnected the ICV contact, started the car and there was no change from normal... idling at just under 900rpm.
Connected it back up, no change. Disconnected it again, no change.
From this, I think that must mean the ICV needs a good clean. Will do it tonight and let you know the outcome...
Giles.
It's strange because if I remove the oil cap from my rocker cover, there's no change but on other car's if you remove them, it runs really lumpy.

2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch
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E30Adam
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Well... the ones that were perfectly clen that didn't respond to unplugging I've found to be okay, mine doesn't change it you unplug it and the car runs fine.SVBMW wrote:E30Adam WroteThats exactly what I found.I've found that some ICV's respond to unplugging and plugging in but some just stay the same even if you clean them.
So I've just ordered a new one - Did I do right???
Tris

2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch
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Geeman
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Spoken to PacerPete about this... he reckons there definitely should be a change in revs if you unplug them. If not, there's something wrong.
When you take the ICV off, shake it. If you can hear rattlings inside, it's okay, if not then it needs checking/cleaning/replacing...
Will be doing mine tonight...
Giles.
When you take the ICV off, shake it. If you can hear rattlings inside, it's okay, if not then it needs checking/cleaning/replacing...
Will be doing mine tonight...
Giles.
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Davenotouring
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I used to have this problem on my 320i.
When you went to pull out of a junction you'd have to be careful to hit the revs a bit before to let it drop then pick up so you could pull away and not stall.
I tried many different ICV's, none made any difference. Tried a different AFM, didn't help.
I tried the ECU out of my 325i breaker, and this cured it. After a short while with it fitted, it revved quickly. Still gave good fuel economy too, on a run.
I would find a replacement 320i ECU, but I'm putting the 325 engine in soon, so I won't bother.
But this is just to let you know it 'could' be an ECU fault. Nothing else helped.
Pacerpete had a fiddle, so did others, to no real conclusion or solution.
Until I swapped the ECU. Runs SO much better now.
When you went to pull out of a junction you'd have to be careful to hit the revs a bit before to let it drop then pick up so you could pull away and not stall.
I tried many different ICV's, none made any difference. Tried a different AFM, didn't help.
I tried the ECU out of my 325i breaker, and this cured it. After a short while with it fitted, it revved quickly. Still gave good fuel economy too, on a run.
I would find a replacement 320i ECU, but I'm putting the 325 engine in soon, so I won't bother.
But this is just to let you know it 'could' be an ECU fault. Nothing else helped.
Pacerpete had a fiddle, so did others, to no real conclusion or solution.
Until I swapped the ECU. Runs SO much better now.

Nissan 200SX S14a - Track Slag
BMW 328i Cab - Daily Slag
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Davenotouring
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It's still got the 2.5 chip.

Nissan 200SX S14a - Track Slag
BMW 328i Cab - Daily Slag
thanks to everyone for replying.
is the ECU that little jobby under the dash by my right knee? and are you saying i could go to the breakers and get me one of them and just swap them straight out, no worrys??
cheers.
is the ECU that little jobby under the dash by my right knee? and are you saying i could go to the breakers and get me one of them and just swap them straight out, no worrys??
cheers.
confusion is my middle name. but i drive me a damn nice car!!
dave, when u say changed the ecu, dԚ´you mean the moronic unit with one from a 2.5? or is there a curcuit board that is to be changed,
i have the same semi stutter at lights, which is easily remedyed by holding the rev at 1k and sofly out on the clutch.....this works especially when i start my drives for about 10 mins til shes warmed, then shes much more forgiving
i have the same semi stutter at lights, which is easily remedyed by holding the rev at 1k and sofly out on the clutch.....this works especially when i start my drives for about 10 mins til shes warmed, then shes much more forgiving
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Davenotouring
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Guys, I'm not saying this is definately what cured it, as I was cleaning out various bits and bobs at the same time. But it was the only thing which seemed to have an effect.
I changed the complete ecu, just unbolted it from above your right knee, as mentioned, pull out the plug and swap it over.
I'm also running a 2.5 AFM. Don't know if this helps/hinders or makes any difference at all!
Johnono, sounds like exactly the problem I had, it's fine now though.
I changed the complete ecu, just unbolted it from above your right knee, as mentioned, pull out the plug and swap it over.
I'm also running a 2.5 AFM. Don't know if this helps/hinders or makes any difference at all!
Johnono, sounds like exactly the problem I had, it's fine now though.

Nissan 200SX S14a - Track Slag
BMW 328i Cab - Daily Slag
sorry about the ignorance, but what is a 2.5 AFM, also, does the year of the car matter with the ECU. i know there is a 2.5 in a yard near me that is a recent addition, still has the ECU, but it is a good few years earlier than mine. do you think that will make much of a difference?
cheers.
cheers.
confusion is my middle name. but i drive me a damn nice car!!
- Brianmoooore
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Re: Engine speed increasing when ICV unplugged.
I might be talking utter rubbish, since I've never had any reason to try this test, but IIRC early ICVs were two wire and later ones three wire.
The two wire version must be a motor applying variable torque against a spring, so if it is unplugged, it will default either to fully open or fully closed, depending on design. The three wire version uses two magnetic fields at right angles to each other, and moves the insides of the valve by balancing one against the other, so when it is unplugged it will stay where ever it happened to be.
I might be talking utter rubbish, since I've never had any reason to try this test, but IIRC early ICVs were two wire and later ones three wire.
The two wire version must be a motor applying variable torque against a spring, so if it is unplugged, it will default either to fully open or fully closed, depending on design. The three wire version uses two magnetic fields at right angles to each other, and moves the insides of the valve by balancing one against the other, so when it is unplugged it will stay where ever it happened to be.
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TVRTASMIN
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There must me something in the ECU which controls the idle speed in conjunction with the TPS and IACV.
I've just fitted a bigger bore throttle body and the engine would not idle when warm, kept stalling.
Checked voltage from loom plug to IACV and this was out.
Changed the ECU and it cured it. Car idles now when warm.
Does anybody know if the unit which controls the idle within the ECU can be transferred to my old ECU, as i have a Bexley chip in i think but this has got me wondering as i went for a spin with a standard ECU connected and i couldn't tell the difference.
I've just fitted a bigger bore throttle body and the engine would not idle when warm, kept stalling.
Checked voltage from loom plug to IACV and this was out.
Changed the ECU and it cured it. Car idles now when warm.
Does anybody know if the unit which controls the idle within the ECU can be transferred to my old ECU, as i have a Bexley chip in i think but this has got me wondering as i went for a spin with a standard ECU connected and i couldn't tell the difference.


