Cambelt change bit of advice as bit stuck

[J_A_R_B]

Hi All


I am in the process of stripping the car back for for a head removal in order to replace the rockers, cam, eccentrics etc.. I have removed the alternator, hoses, rad and air cleaner. But I am not sure having read through my e30 restoration book, + online guides how to proceed as the pictures of the crank shaft hub don't relate to mine as mine doesn't have teeth (is mine one or two piece) plus not sure how to get the viscous fan off as cannot get enough tension on old belt to to stop water pump hub sliding when try an undo nut.
Some advice would be greatly appreciated. A picture of what I have done on my 325i sport is included.

thanks

James

[evodan]

Fan nut is a left hand thread mate

[J_A_R_B]

No don't worry was trying to affectively do the bolt up so was turning in the right direction having read restoration guide. Managed to move whole crank had that much pressure on belt to stop it slipping. Put some WD on hopefully after bit soaking will help get it off.

[SPADGE]

Try wedging a large flat head screwdriver between the heads of the 1omm bolts that secure the pulley to the pump when trying to undo the fan. Or use an oil filter chain wrench or something along those lines to stop it turning.
I find that giving the spanner a 'rap' with a hammer usually shocks it lose rather than just constant pressure.

[Martinaston]

A new belt is only a couple of quid, so get the old one and hold it around the pulley with a pair of mole grips to stop it turning while you undo the nut.

[murran]

tighten the belt up as much as possible then put the 32mm spanner on it and whack it round with the hammer.
tho if some muppet has put thread locker sh1t on it in the past then an air chisel is your next weapon of choice!

[J_A_R_B]

does anybody know what i do next in regards to the crank shaft hub as not like other have seen in guides.

[murran]

jut undo the 13mm bolts x6 in the middle should come off with a bit of a tap. them looking different is just cus its a prefacelift and just has the rev counter pick up sensor. not the actual crank sensor as such. doesnt make any difference to how you take it to bits.

[Martinaston]

The timing pully is just 6 or 8 13mm bolts on the inside of the pulley, the two pieces you're refering to are the large weight (no teeth on it) and the smaller piece thats just the belt pulley.

The crank hub will need a 22mm socket and the longest breaker bar you have and then some kind of scaffold pole over that to make it even longer to get the 400lbs of leverage you'll need to undo it, with the hand brake on and in 5th gear and hope the clutch holds.

[J_A_R_B]

how does a garage get a crank hub off place i have been into before don't look like they have any tools that would generate that amount of leverage.

[Templ8e30]

The crankshaft pulley (for the cambelt) doesn't need to come off unless your changing the front oil seals, the cambelt slips between the pulley and the lower cambelt cover quite easily.

Cheers,

Iain T

[J_A_R_B]

Iain./All

So the large weight with no teeth (pictured above) does not need to come off? So no need for hugh breaker bar and pole. I don't think the bottom cambelt cover near the crank sensor can be removed because of the ther large weight behind crank pulley. Thanks for all your help the online guides, books are not so helpfull at this stage.

thanks

James

[Chris-W]

The "large weight with no teeth" does need to and will come off once you have removed the auxiliary belts pulley (6 x 13mm bolts as mentioned above). No need to touch the 22mm crank bolt.

[J_A_R_B]

Chris

Excellent thanks for the clarification on this.

James