First E30 - 316i Touring Rescue - (Update: Now MOT'd!)

[iDemonix]

Hi all,

Back at my other half's parents for xmas, I was dog walking by a river and found this BMW abandoned on someone's garden/allotment. I've always liked the look of E30s but never thought about owning one. My daily is a VW T5 for my bikes, I sold my BMW E90 320d to get the van and I'm missing BMW.

After a New Years holiday, I kept thinking about the abandoned car so I decided to stick a note on the windscreen. Heard nothing for ages then got some emails, months of back and forth and I'm hopefully picking it up in two weeks.

So, the car:



It's a 316i Touring Lux '94. Apparently. It's last MOT ran out 6 years ago and it registered 103k miles, so probably around 110-120 now. It needs a offside ball joint, the exhaust was apparently replaced at last MOT. Tyres are obviously completely unusable. Don't really know anything else about its history.

All I know about how the car is now is that it was starting last year, but apparently it was stalling under load. Owner seems to think it was injectors, not looked in to it. Apparently it now won't start and owner seems to think it's the fuel pump. I know it's risky buying a car when you can't hear the engine running, but I've been told I can hear it turn over.

So yeah. Any hints and tips about sorting any bits out are appreciated. What would you do with a car stood for this long? Will obviously be doing all air/oil/fuel filters, probably replace injectors with refurbs from eBay, fresh oil, drop any fuel from the tanks (is there a drain plug?), coolant change etc.

Looking forward to getting back in a BMW.

[jonathanyeah]

One word . . . . . . RUST

[Speedtouch]

Good luck with it. This guide may be useful:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... oubleshoot

[Z3I]

Don't pay too much for it, cars left abandoned are usually that for a very good reason. Tinker around with it, see if you like them, and progress from there..

[iDemonix]

Some good advice and I acknowledge some might think it's dead already!

There'll obviously be some rust, I'm just hoping it's not too bad. I had a classic mini I rebuilt and trust me, that was a new level of rust - replaced front and back floorpans, bulkhead, both sills, boot floor....

The owner does seem fond of it, so I'm hoping he's taken some care of it at least, but then the moss on the bonnet says otherwise! He has mentioned he started it up often...

Also, yes, I'm getting it for a good price. How much would you pay for it?

It's only going to be doing about 12 miles a day, as my commute is 3 miles (come home for lunch), then long distance driving will be done in the van, although might to the odd Notts to Didcot run. Not expecting to make it in to a show car, just a fairly looked after daily, I hate to see nice old cars left to rot.

I also want to learn about car mech anyway, I do all my own spannering on my bikes, but apart from the mini, which was stupidly simple, I don't know shit about cars. Trailing arms, ball joints, CV joints, differentials - all alien to me, so it'll be good to learn.

Will hopefully put some more pics up on Sunday, and assess what the underneath looks like >.<

[Speedtouch]

As a festering non-runner with fairly high mileage and who knows how many unknown faults (which may only become apparent after you eventually get the engine running), I wouldn't want to pay more than a couple of hundred quid for it.

And at that sort of price, I'd need to get a good look underneath to ensure the shell is reasonably sound to start with.

If the underside is shot, run for the hills, run 'til you can run no more!

On the plus side, it is one of the last-of-the-line Tourings with the Lux spec., which may have plenty of goodies as standard...

[andysheep]

Good luck ya nutter,iv restored two rot boxs,5 years in a garages,loved it
Andy

[iDemonix]

Yeah it's the underneath that's going to decide it, that's why I'm looking this weekend, picking it up the weekend after if it's 'ok' but if there are big holes or huge areas of rust I'll just leave it.

Like I said, the odd patch I can take to someone to cover up is fine, done that plenty of times, but if it needs new panels etc I'm not bothered. On the pic you can see the paint around the bumper + bumper is flaking, again need to see if it's just a bit of surface rust or whether it's properly gone.

[BHadley]

Check the roof throughly for rust (look under headlining as much as poss)

also see wiki guide as to why certain rust spots are easier to fix than others

[iDemonix]

Alright will do, can anyone point me at the common painful spots to check other than the roof and stuff like suspension mounts.

[Speedtouch]

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Rust

[BHadley]

A 316i will also have a cambelt, these need changing every 3 years or 36,000 so bear that in mind before cranking as they can degrade over time, loose tension and snap.... When that happens it's bent valves in the clynder head (top part of engine ) good idea to change water pump and coolant flush and change as its been left laid up so long.... Good luck...

[iDemonix]

Alright will bear that in mind, cheers. I reckon I could do a belt change after watching some YT vids.

At the end of the day it's only costing me a few hundred, so if it's really that knackered I could just sell the interior, wheels and other bits to cover my costs then sell it to be scrapped.

[v1xz]

Have you done anything with the exterior?
I've just bought my first E30 too and it was parked under a Lime tree for a year. The paint work and plastics was very lumpy.
I bathed the whole car in 2 stroke fuel.
A complete bath and let it soak, not the best method but it defo works.
Jet washed the whole car after that and it's come up really really well now. Paint work is clean and no roughness

[andysheep]

sorry what did you do?s**t for a minute there i thought you said you bathed a car in two stroke fuel,,,,,,,,,

[iDemonix]

As above, dafuq!? Petrol and oil mixed 50:1? On your paintwork!?

[ross_jsy]

2 stroke oil on paint. Heard it all now. Usually such suggestions are only made on the zone Facebook

If you have had a Mini, I am sure any welding will be fine. Good luck! There are few better cars available to learn how to spanner on.

[iDemonix]

I had a mini but paid someone else to do the welding Would love to learn to weld but not got the room for the kit in the garage, one day. I know a few people that are in the trade though.

[iDemonix]

As promised, been to view, here are some pics below.

I went expecting the level of rot my mini had, but it was no way near as bad. Typical rusty arches and sills, rust around the bottom of the rear window, few bits dotted about but nothing seems too bad. It was hard to get a good look underneath due to the grass, but it seems not too bad, the exhaust was new 4-5 years ago and never saw the road really - looks in ok shape.

Suspension on the front looked crap but I'd likely replace it all anyway, rear suspension is probably similar, that'd be on the 'get round to' card.

Car wouldn't start, but seemed to crank ok, no obvious leaks anywhere etc. Video linked below ('Thats fine' meant stop cranking, not that it sounds fine )



Pics:



















What do people reckon from the pics? I reckon it's saveable and could go back to being a reliable daily.

[BHadley]

Pretty standard considering it's been standing quite a few years outside.....
I'd get it home jacked up and rust hunting before buying anything else

Loving the "swoosh" lines on the back of the rear sill, very arty!

[ross_jsy]

I've seen a lot worse but under seal hides real nasties.

I bet the inner arches are non existent when you get a screw driver in there

[iDemonix]

Pretty standard considering it's been standing quite a few years outside.....
I'd get it home jacked up and rust hunting before buying anything else

Loving the "swoosh" lines on the back of the rear sill, very arty!

Ha only just noticed that

[iDemonix]

I've seen a lot worse but under seal hides real nasties.

I bet the inner arches are non existent when you get a screw driver in there

I did shine a torch up in to the arches from my phone and tbh they didn't seem too bad, nothing obvious that I could see. I've heard the panels come off the E30 fairly easy, is that true? If it wasn't too hard to get the wing off that'd make the inner arch not too big a job.

[Speedtouch]

I'd be a bit concerned about those 'swooshy/arty' lines of what appears to be underseal applied to the bottoms of the doors - and what may lie underneath it; it's certainly not a standard factory finish!

Perhaps get some petrol soaked rag and try wiping some off to check the door bottoms...

Indeed, the front wings are bolted on, and fairly easy to remove and refit:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... ront_Wings

[iDemonix]

Hmm, I've sent some pics off to a place called Wreck-a-mended for a quote.

Everyone's a bit down on this car so far, but I'd love to give it a new lease of life. It depends on money though at the end of the day. Anyone give me a ballpark figure for a sill replacement, sorting the rear window and arches? Ignore the rest for now...

I've got a figure in my head based on what I paid for the minis floor pans, sills, window edges and various other bits, wondering if it's the same for an E30 vs a mini...

[ross_jsy]

The front wings bolt off yes, but that rot is in the rears.

I can't offer advice on price, and prices vary a lot depending on quality. But I will say the most expensive e30 you can buy is a cheap one

[andysheep]

Aimless rock has a saying"nothing as expensive as a cheap car"but a as a wreck reviver and,these lads dont want you to get to far in and not want to finish it because a,too expensive or b,to rotten,when its parts could help others ,so,,,,,
I surjest (and i should take my own advice)get it home ,strip and use photos as you go,but get it up on jack stands remove seats ,carpet ect front wings, wheels. wash and go poking with screw driver from there,write down what replacable parts it needs and how much and what needs welding,and as somone on here said double it! .
Iv been honest and postive .
Andy

[aimlessrock]

...that's a money pit, personally I would walk away. Just my 2 cents.

[Brianmoooore]

All depends on what you pay for it. Engine isn't worth a lot, but BBS wheels with caps, instruments, touring suspension, brakes, etc., all sell for decent money, so as long as you can make a profit out of breaking it, all is not lost if it does turn out to be beyond repair.
I worked on lots of Minis before I worked on lots of E30s, and the rot on the BMW will be a lot more localised than that on a Mini. A rust hole on an E30 can often be fully and properly repaired with a patch about 2" across, rather than the square foot or so of rotted metal that will surround a hole on a Mini.
The rust you can see at the moment is not nearly as bad as it looks. The paint around the slightest scratch in the paint will bubble up on a car that is left outside and unmoved for years. It's the 90% of the rust that you can't see at first sight, like that mentioned earlier under perfect looking sealant, that you need to worry about.

[iDemonix]

I'm 50:50 on whether to go for it or not. I just can't see it being worse than the mini, but I'm well aware that rot hides.

It's only costing a few hundred, so as a few have mentioned to me so far, I think if I took it apart and found it was truly knackered under the carpets etc, I think the wheels, interior (good condition) and various other bits could sell and give me back the money it'd cost me - worst case scenario.

[iDemonix]

Update: Fuck it, went for it, only £300 and I want something to learn how to repair cars on, rather learn on a cheap car than an expensive one. Looking forward to some new challenges, only done light work on a mini before.







There are actually quite a few nice bits, interior pretty tidy etc. But, let's focus on the worst bits so far, not had a proper look underneath or in the arches yet...

Didn't notice this dent before, annoying but doesn't bother me too much.





Boot not so bad, no rust in wheel well







Sadly I think the tailgate is scrap, rust along the bottom of the windscreen at both ends and in the middle. Might take the window out and wire wheel the metal to see if there's anything good left, but have a feeling it might be easier to wait for a rust free one to pop up and spray paint it?



Might need some patches in the arches:





RIGHT - Now I have some questions, would appreciate some answers, not done any googling yet but might as well ask here!

It this 'key fob'? and LED combo the tell-tale of an aftermarket immobiliser? (Not figured out what the little key is for yet)




What does this button do?



What's this?



My handbrake release button is an inch inside the lever. Am I just missing a part?



Red LED?



Last question: Removing the battery to charge it, will that likely mess with any immobiliser or make it a pain to lock up or something? The battery is flat, need to bring it in and put it on my bikes optimate charger.

Think the fuel pump or relay is knackered, fuse 11 is solid, although he's used a 12.5 I think instead of a 7.5. If I can figure out where the fuel pump relay I'll try bridge it and see if it makes a noise. Is it a loud enough noise to hear with the rear seats in place?

A lot of questions, appreciate even just 1-2 answers!

[ross_jsy]

I would remove the alarm. It will have been installed by a monkey and will be a headache

The button in the dash is the cut out for the windows, essentially a fuse in case they jam. It pops up and is reset by pushing it back.

The thing in your hand in the boot is an inner track rod.

Hold the handle of the handbrake and all it back down firmly, it should slide into place.

That red LED will be to do with the alarm.

Fuel pump relay should be under a cover on the passengers side wing in the engine bay.

Hope that helps and good luck

[aimlessrock]

fair play to you for getting stuck in. keep the updates coming. Even if its a complete Turkey, at £300 you would still come out in profit if you fragged it.

[iDemonix]

Thanks both!

First job is to get it running, it needs to be a rolling project as I don't have a trailer, I also need to be able to move it away and towards my garage door, has to be right up to the door when not in use to make parking room available, and it's too heavy to keep pushing every night as my drive has a slight decline so it rolls away!

Bit of reading says to remove the rear seat, bridge the fuel pump relay (87 + 30?) and go listen to the fuel pump for a noise. Need to whip the battery out and trickle charge it, job for this lunch time, then I'll try the relay trick after work.

Good news is it does appear to crank freely and the previous owner apparently drained the old fuel out and put 10L of fresh fuel in about 5 months ago when I first got in touch with him, so it's not full of 6 year old fuel!

[Brianmoooore]

LED on the steering column is some aftermarket tat, but the one in a switch blank is likely to be part of the genuine BMW item, but if you don't have the fob it's of no use, so remove both (you might even find a third), and fit a remote entry kit from 'Rightclick'.
Don't write the tail gate off just yet - pull out the rubber strip along the bottom, check behind that and around the number plate lights. Glass is bonded in, so doesn't come out that easily.
The rubber strip is the problem with the tail gate. It shrinks and traps water in the groove, so the best fix is to replace the strip with a carefully applied bead of black polyurethane sealant.
This is a four cylinder car, so you won't find the pump relay where ross has said - that's for 6 pot cars. Yours is behind the wiring cover on the engine bulkhead, between the fusebox and the centre of the car. There will three relay sockets there, and at least two will have relays in them. The white one is the main DME relay and the orange one will be the fuel pump. Link pins 30 and 87 (marked on the relay) to permanently power the pump. The third socket is for a lambda sensor heater, so will only be fitted if yours has a cat. in the exhaust. It may be blue or orange.
Fuel pump is loud enough to hear, especially if you swing up the RH seat cushion. There's an access panel under the felt, but to get full access to it you have to remove thew seat base mounting rail - loosen the little grub screws, and slide the rail sideways.
Holes in the rear inner wing tend to correspond to brackets welded under the wing. Cut out the area complete with bracket, then either weld the bracket to the repair patch, or make a new bracket, and weld that to the patch, then weld in the patch complete with bracket.