M52 b30 stroker rebuild back on the road

Doing a minor build / restoration or an epic one, post it here

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appletree
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Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:14 pm

Not to jinx it but don't these blocks normally strip the head bolt threads when you get to the last bit of the tightening procedure or is that only when they've been cooked? I have one block as a tv remote stand (on it's end with the bores for the contolers :D ) and it has had 3 ripped out. :(
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Tom7
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Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:16 pm

Can they not be heli-coiled?
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Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:57 pm

Craig done a head gasket on his m52 that's why he came over today to take the head off ,he said all the bolts seem fine etc and to go ahead with the gasket work.we know there is an element of luck with the threads but i know in my ownership it never got overheated badly .

it'll just be a fingers crossed moment on each bolt when the torque wrench comes out.
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Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:07 pm

appletree wrote:Not to jinx it but don't these blocks normally strip the head bolt threads when you get to the last bit of the tightening procedure or is that only when they've been cooked? I have one block as a tv remote stand (on it's end with the bores for the contolers :D ) and it has had 3 ripped out. :(
I thought that too Mick sorry - It MIGHT be just if it has been overheated but pretty sure that these donks arent receptive to headgasket replacements :( Andyboy is the man to ask
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magpie
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Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:16 pm

Craig and Dan say it can be done... obviously if the threads are good.no threads came out with the bolts so it has to be worth a go ...no ?

if the block doesn't take kindly to the torque wrench i will have a full skimmed/pressure tested head for sale and an m52 crank for the stroker boys. and on the hunt for m52 number 3
:(
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Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:32 pm

It can be done, fingers crossed here Mick 8)
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:01 am

I would be using ARP bolts Muck now
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:11 am

Mick, you really need an M30, stop messing with this e36 shite :D
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 6:23 am

Could you fit a head stud kit? Not much in it at a guess but you would have the stud threads fully engaged before you started to torque the head up. I know it's s bit swings and round snouts but somehow it seams to make sence. Does the M52 also use longer studs/bolts than an M50?

Only thing with stud kits is you would probably have to take the engine out as even with my little M42 with a M50 head stud kit the head hits the bulkhead before it drops on to the studs which is a tw@.
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 10:40 am

heli coils then you know your ok. Wheres the pic of the gasket gone? show us the money shot!
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 10:54 am

Last turn of the torque wrench is what its all about Mick, good luck with it. 8)
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 11:29 am

where do i get a stud kit from ? how much is this then ??

same with heli coils,i'd have to have a mobile heli coil service that isn't going to be cheap .
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 11:47 am

You may as well try and change the studs and HG, but be very careful when torqueing it up - do it in gradual, even stages.

With a bit of luck, you may not need any Helicoils.
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 12:24 pm

Speedtouch wrote:You may as well try and change the studs and HG, but be very careful when torqueing it up - do it in gradual, even stages.

With a bit of luck, you may not need any Helicoils.
i'll buy new head bolts and a head gasket and as you say give it a go at that first.
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Speedtouch
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 12:59 pm

Also ensure that the head threads are as clean as a whistle; any liquid or debris in them could cause expansion problems, leading to cracking.
///M aurice
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:15 pm

Speedtouch wrote:Also ensure that the head threads are as clean as a whistle; any liquid or debris in them could cause expansion problems, leading to cracking.
My thoughts too. I would have done a cylinder leak test before removal of the head so you atleast you know where to look.
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:59 pm

make sure you get the right head bolts as the ones for ali blocks are much longer than the iron block bolts which are 95mm

135mm rings a bell
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 2:00 pm

zaust wrote:
Speedtouch wrote:Also ensure that the head threads are as clean as a whistle; any liquid or debris in them could cause expansion problems, leading to cracking.
My thoughts too. I would have done a cylinder leak test before removal of the head so you atleast you know where to look.
it's had a compression test just before i bought it.

i've been advised to oil the new head bolts up so that'll be done .
i'll put each bolt in slowly and fully then take them out to free any crap out .
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magpie
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 2:08 pm

Simon13 wrote:make sure you get the right head bolts as the ones for ali blocks are much longer than the iron block bolts which are 95mm

135mm rings a bell
cheers simon .

just been looking on gsf,two lots of headbolts ..

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/011bm0030 <<< 95mm

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/011bm0040 <<< 110mm
^^^^^^^^^^
these are what i should buy ?

head gasket...

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/111bm0060
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 6:07 pm

You really need compressed air to clean out the bolt holes in the block, when you lifted the head off water and oil will have run into them. Or you could improvise with a wet vac and WD40
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 7:34 pm

Mick, have a compressor in the back of the van if you get stuck.
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 7:45 pm

Neilios wrote:Mick, have a compressor in the back of the van if you get stuck.
yes...when can you pop over Niel :D
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 9:56 pm

that'll do it ....

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cheers Niel :thumb:
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 10:19 pm

Only lightly oil the bolts (if at all) - any fluid contained within gets compressed, leading to expansion and potential cracks.

You're probably better off using graphite powder (pencil lead) rather than any form of oil.
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Sun Jul 21, 2013 10:23 pm

graphite powder . just about to order some on ebay 8)

what's the best way to apply it :?
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 7:19 am

Dust with a soft brush.
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 6:41 pm

And hr does mean dust, very little.
compression test and cylinder leak test are different. Would have also pressurized the water system just to check that too.

fingers crossed for you mate.
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:31 pm

the head passed the pressure test and needed a skim so i'm picking it up tomorrow.

so am i going to need a thicker h/gasket now then ?

it's £70 odd quid from gsf :(
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Neilios
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:02 pm

Should be OK with a standard thickness gasket as they will only skim a few thou off.
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:17 pm

i'm not sure if it's ever been skimmed before and bmw would of taken it off when fitting the steel liner block so they might of re-faced it .

i think i might just have to shell out on the bigger gasket to be safe .
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:27 pm

Ask the guys who are skimming it how much they have taken off, the thicker gaskets are generally 10-20% thicker.
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Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:42 pm

just spoke with dan after you raised this Neil and he said get the standard one all day :D

cheers mate 8)
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magpie
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Tue Jul 23, 2013 2:57 pm

got the head back today and it's had 12 thou taken off so i need the thicker gasket now .

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gasket and head bolts ordered from gsf and a small gasket ordered from bmw for the rear of block heater pipe fitting .


it's all about the block threads now .
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Tue Jul 23, 2013 3:04 pm

If you don't have access to an airline to blow them out, I would use cotton buds and some alcohol-based solvent to clean them out.
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magpie
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Tue Jul 23, 2013 3:20 pm

Speedtouch wrote:If you don't have access to an airline to blow them out, I would use cotton buds and some alcohol-based solvent to clean them out.
magpie wrote:that'll do it ....

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cheers Niel :thumb:
Nielos dropped this compressor and air line round mine the other day ...keep up morris :)
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