E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Build_10. ETK_31_Front Axle

The ice has broken! ))
Finally, I started directly to the assembly! I will act according to a pre-approved plan;)
I repeat:
I don’t even want to plan on terms ... how will it go ...) But I will try to leave by the summer! )
I will build very slowly, carefully and accurately. I even came up with an entertainment for myself - an assembly as close as possible to the ETC;) I will focus mainly on the ETC for the 1985 325i 4-door sedan, but of course there will be exceptions. I do not promise full compliance with the ETC, due to the unavailability or inadequacy of prices for some parts)), but I will strive for this! ) But this does not mean that the whole machine will be assembled on new original parts. No. To my regret, I am not an oligarch, so I won’t be able to finance such an assembly. Anything that can be restored will be restored to "like new" condition. What works well will be restored only externally. Well, what is to be replaced will be replaced with new good analogues, or with the original, if it is available and the price is adequate. Naturally, everything used and old, down to nuts and screws, will be washed, cleaned, painted, galvanized, or changed to a new and beautiful one. All threaded connections will be lubricated during assembly, and all rubber bands will be treated with silicone grease. To paraphrase a classic - Everything should be fine in the car: the body, the engine, the suspension, and the interior! ))
So we start! )
I will try to describe the assembly as detailed as possible, although many people already know this, but suddenly it will be useful to someone ...

According to the plan, we start with the ETK section
ETK_31_Front Axle

Front axle beam_wishbone



This is how it looks live:



Ball joints did not disturb anything - left the old ones. The original all-filled M3 silents, it seems, are generally eternal, so I didn’t take them off either. Fasteners are all according to ETK, updated with "yellow zinc".

Front Stabilizer



It's the same here.



Shock absorber strut front_shock absorber



Wheel Bearings





There are deviations from the ETK) "Collective farm" chippers and anthers from Opel - a necessary measure for low springs. MTS-Techniks shock absorbers with a short stem.

ABS sensors are different on the left and right side, they differ in wire length. The right one is longer.
There are no complaints about the hubs, so I did not remove them, but simply painted them.

spring_ext.el.





Thrust bearings live, just cleaned, painted and replaced the grease. The lower rubber bands are new, they were bought last time, but then they were not useful for coilovers. Now here come in handy. The nuts are new, I forgot to put them in.

Front coil spring





Springs not according to ETK - Eibach Pro Kit -30/40mm

Now let's put it all together. It is better to immediately fasten the stabilizer to the beam - it is much more convenient than doing it already on the installed beam.



We also immediately fasten the stabilizer brackets to the levers. But we don’t tighten it - they will still need to be installed in the correct position in place so that the stub rack works correctly on its hinges.



Solemn moment! ) The first part installed on the body!




We fasten the levers, having previously lubricated the ball fingers - it will be much easier to remove them next time. We put the protective shield of the right silent block.



Now you can correctly set the brackets of the stabilizer struts and tighten their fasteners.





Let's move on to the stands. Unfortunately, the restored beautiful and solid original shock nuts did not fit the new shock absorbers. The diameter of the shock absorber is slightly larger, and the nut will not fit on it. I had to put those that were complete with amortization.



Pour 30-50 grams of engine oil into the rack - for better heat dissipation from shock absorbers. We insert shock absorbers, remove excess leaked oil and tighten the nut.



Now the springs. We tighten the spring with ties. By the way, I bought them inexpensively and of excellent quality. And it seemed to me to work with such ties much more convenient than ties with double hooks. Although, I heard the opposite ... We evenly tighten the spring until the upper plate is free in its place on the stem. Further, as in the picture - a thick washer, anther, a support bearing, a washer, a new self-locking nut.
All instructions for shock absorbers say that you can not tighten the nut with a wrench. Moreover, nothing can be held by the stock. Therefore, I tightened with a tubular wrench, through which I held the stem with a 6-sided pipe.



We remove the ties and the racks are ready. The ABS sensors have not yet been screwed to them, so that they do not interfere. I will put them together with the wiring.



We install racks on the car. We insert the support bearing into the glass, and jack up the lever together with the rack - while the ball pin is clamped in the rack, and you can tighten the ball nut. If at the same time the finger scrolls, then we hold it with a 6-hedron at the end. Then tighten the three nuts on the support. We fasten the stabilizer struts to the stabilizer.



The front axle is assembled.



I immediately screwed on the brake discs, although there will be a separate entry about them later.





Now you can assemble the steering. More on that next time.

P.S.
How nice it is to put new and beautiful parts! ))

[The_Glory]

?

[steve_k]

looking good so far buddy, going above & beyond in your approach, keep it up.

[The_Glory]

Any problems with the forum, or have I been banned somehow? I haven't been able to send my records for several days...

Server Error
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You do not have permission to access this document.

What the hell?

[steve_k]

Any problems with the forum, or have I been banned somehow? I haven't been able to send my records for several days...

Server Error
403
Forbidden
You do not have permission to access this document.

What the hell?

i'll ask in the back room see if anyone knows anything.

[Steve]

Hi The Glory

Can you try clicking on the delete cookies link at the very bottom right hand corner of the forum and log back in and see if that works.

If not are you using a VPN?

[The_Glory]

Hi The Glory

Can you try clicking on the delete cookies link at the very bottom right hand corner of the forum and log back in and see if that works.

If not are you using a VPN?

Hi Steve.
I did as you said but nothing changed.
I can write separate messages here, but I cannot insert the entire text of the article along with the photo from Google Translate. And I won't be able to write the entire text in English - unfortunately, I'm not that fluent in English...

I don't use VPN

[The_Glory]

Build_11. ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry (part 1) [/ b]

Let's move on to the next section.
ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry

We skip the mechanical rail and rails with an airbag.
We look at the E30 rail with power steering.
Power steering



I have a restyled E30 rail with power steering. You will not believe it, but it is alive - it does not flow, it does not knock. Therefore, I decided not to go inside it, so as not to make it worse)) I just brought out the external beauty)




Power steering pipe





Assembly assembly.



Tie rods / tie rods



At first I wanted to leave the traction as well, but there were once comments on them when adjusting the toe, so I replaced them completely assembled with new ones.



The anthers are perfectly preserved, and I bought new band clamps. They are easier to tighten, but I had such ones before - they hold perfectly.
I know from my own experience that it is better to immediately add grease to new ball joints - they will live longer. In the case of "Febi" rods and tips, the same story - there was almost no lubrication in them.





He took off the anthers and added them without regret. When installing the rod, another jamb was discovered - the diameter of the rod nut and the new lock washers turned out to be the same, and there was simply nowhere to bend the washer!





As it turned out, these rods are unified with E46, where lock washers are not provided. They have grooves for air circulation between the anthers through the hollow E46 shaft.



It was in these grooves that I decided to lock the E30 lock washers.



In this way - I fixed three points on each rod.





Here's a "life hack" ;)
Next, generously lubricate the rail and the hinge of the rods, put on the anthers, tighten the clamps, and the rail is ready for installation.







We attach the rail to the holes closest to the beam.



When installing a rail from newer bodies (E36, E46), it is sometimes attached to the far (front) holes. I don’t know how correct this is, but the E30 rail is placed on the nearest holes. This is exactly how I had both the mechanical rail and the E30 power steering rail.



We insert the fingers of the tips into the rack (having previously lubricated them) and tighten the nuts, holding the finger with a hexagon.



I put the convergence "by eye" - if only it could somehow roll straight. Then, after the entire assembly, you will need to set the "zero" on the steering wheel, and adjust the correct angles.
Then I will put the steering column - more on that next time.

[The_Glory]

I think I understand what the problem is. The text without links to the Russian ETK site is inserted normally. Do you also have Russian sites closed?

[martauto]

I think I understand what the problem is. The text without links to the Russian ETK site is inserted normally. Do you also have Russian sites closed?

Glad to see you back on the zone mate, oh and we dont even think about anything "Russian" right now.lol

Mart.

[The_Glory]

Build_12. ETK_32_Steering and suspension geometry (part 2) [/ B]

We continue with the ETK section.
ETK_32_Steering. and suspension geometry

We skip the sections on the pump and hydraulics for now - we will return to them later - when the motor is already installed.
We also skip the sections on the steering column with an airbag - everything is different there, our own. For this reason, I will probably never decide to install this option...
Now let's move on to the section.
Steering column-upper steering shaft section



My steering column is still native, i.e. 1984, so it has some features. Firstly, the lower (No. 10) and upper (No. 11) bearings are different. The upper one is more "solid" - with a good body and protection from dirt. Although, it would seem more logical to put it the other way around - after all, the lower one is on the street, and water and dirt flies at it. Therefore, in my case it even rusted a little, but I managed to revive it.
Since 1985, the bearings are already the same - such as my lower one (No. 10) - simpler. After restyling, the upper bearing was already plastic. The beginning of the process of unification and cheapening)
Secondly, my column has a rubber o-ring (No. 12) on the shaft. After 1985 it was discontinued. Why it was there - I do not understand ...)
1984 model steering shaft details updated with "yellow zinc":



Bottom part



The shaft appeared to be hollow. Below is a plug (No. 14) - I did not take it out. Although, at first, while the shaft was dirty, it seemed that something was stuck - I wanted to pick it out))



The upper part - you can see the difference in the bearings (in the photo I mixed up the washers - they are placed the other way around



Parts #16 and #17 are not used.
And it all goes into the steering column tube.



Next section
Steering column-steering shaft lower section



He's also a "cardan". For a rail with power steering, it is not the same as for a mechanical one. Crosses without backlash, the clutch is whole and not oak - I left it as it is. One bolt was lost somewhere, so I replaced it with a similar one made of stainless steel. Item #2 is not used. Never met her...
As I was told, this casing was placed on right-hand drive cars to protect the clutch from the exhaust manifold.



Let's get back to the pipe.
But before you assemble the shaft into a pipe, you need to install the ignition lock housing on it.
Steering shaft lock/ignition off and start.



I cleaned the connectors of the contact group (No. 3). The body is fixed on the pipe with a disposable shear bolt (No. 5). I never had it there. It’s not really needed there, as for me, so I didn’t bother with ordering the original one, with a wait of a couple of months, but I did it myself) I just sharpened the edge of the thread on a regular bolt - the norms are fixed. Part #11 is for airbag only, parts #12-16 are not used. But I never had part number 6. I thought it was a black bezel around the core of the ignition lock, but no. This is a separate detail - a decorative ring. Ordered, when I arrive I will add a photo.



The ring (No. 6) arrived, but it turned out to be not plastic, but rubber.



We put the lock body on the pipe. We collect the shaft into the pipe - first the bottom. We put the bearing, boot, ring (groove down) and fix it with a retaining half ring (it is not broken - this is how it should be). Then the top in the sequence, as in the picture (in the photo I mixed up the washers). The upper retaining ring is convenient to snap into place with a high head, with a light blow. Don't forget to grease the bearings.
We snap the lock (by the way, it is removed in the first position of the key, when pressed with a needle through a special hole on the case), and the contact group, we fasten the sound signal contact. The steering shaft is assembled.



And now the steering column pipe
Steering column tube/cladding



The steering column is attached to the body with disposable shear bolts (No. 12). Why - I really did not understand ... It is very difficult to unscrew them. The welder did not even bother with the campaign, he simply knocked the column out of the grooves in the body along with these bolts (more on the consequences below). I cut a slot on them, but they did not unscrew with a screwdriver. I tried to drill, but then I decided to cut off the hat with a grinder easier. The plastic bushings survived this normally. Bolts set the usual, the same size. The rest of the fasteners were updated with "yellow zinc"
Another "collective farm" is a gasket (No. 3). In the original, this is ordinary foam rubber 3-5 mm thick on self-adhesive. Available to order. Priced around $50. As for me, to put it mildly - bust! )) (There are also parts with inadequate prices in the ETC - I will write about them during assembly). And given the current situation with the timing of deliveries - generally a bad idea. In short, I cut it out of splenite, and glued it to the bracket with double-sided tape - no worse than the original. Even better - it will not absorb water and moisture, unlike the original foam rubber. Apparently, that is why the bottom of the pipe and the lower bearing were rusty for me. By the way, that's why the lower bolts were made of stainless steel.



The steering column is ready for installation. Plastic, of course, I will put later, when assembling the cabin. But it is placed before the installation of the torpedo - this is important. Otherwise, it won't fit.



We first fasten the bottom bracket, but do not tighten its clamp so that the column moves up and down - to install the cardan on the slots. We put the cardan, tighten its bolts.



Next, we attach the column from above to the body. Then tighten the bottom clamp. The column is installed.



And now about the consequences of the vandal removal of the column, by knocking it out of the grooves of the body bracket (I can’t find another explanation for this ....).



This is the f * ny I found during installation .... (( The column now, of course, has a backlash .... you need to cook .... this is PPC .... (( Or is it supposed to be like that? Even Pts is even "crack"...

The last section on steering is the most important! ))
Steering wheel



Sports steering wheels, M-techniques and a steering wheel with a pillow are not considered. Although, I have steering wheels in stock;)



But we're going to the drain! Therefore, we put the stock original steering wheel.



True, it has already been altered a little, with an exclusive line, but nothing ... We clean and fasten the contact ring.



And install



Blue inserts on the sides of "eco-leather" Pts cool in harmony with the color of the car! )

Now you can already steer! ))

PS
The steering wheel is temporary, for the assembly period;)

More about the rear suspension assembly.

UPD:
The crack on the steering column bracket was successfully welded, despite my nerve cells spent on it))



The decorative ring of the ignition lock, which I wrote about above, has arrived. It was not plastic, but rubber.



In the photo above I tried it on - it fits)

[The_Glory]

Build_13. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 1) [/ b]

The front suspension and steering are assembled, - let's move on to the rear suspension.

ETK_33_Rear Axle

There were some problems with the differential, or rather with its cover, so more on that next time, but let's start with the section
Output shaft
It is also a semi-axis, it is also a Joint of Equal Angular Velocities.



At first I did not plan to disassemble them, since I had no complaints about them. But looking at a very rusty ABS comb, I decided to take it apart, sand it and paint it - maybe the ABS would suddenly stop bugging out) I changed the internal anthers a few years ago, so their covers were removed easily, but the outer covers were removed with difficulty - only after abundant dousing with grease and hard picking and so bent cover. By the way, it is not available for order at all and I have not found analogues - so you have to pick it carefully. There is still a sealing rubber ring under the cover - it is highly desirable not to tear it either, since it also does not appear in the ETC. In general, I dismantled, sanded, painted, fasteners updated with yellow zinc. I bought stainless steel band clamps.



Internal hinges



External hinges



When disassembling, I marked left / right and internal / external, so as not to confuse and assemble in the same way. Started collecting. First we put the clip on the gear, then we put them on the shaft and put the retaining ring. We insert the shaft with the gear into the body and begin to put the balls in ... but then something went wrong ...) I stuffed the sixth ball with great difficulty ... after which the hinge became a stake in a vertical position and did not move anywhere else at all! )) It turned out that you need to move not only the balls in the hinge, but also the balls in the head! ))) On the second attempt, everything worked out - the hinge began to work normally. In the photo on the right - NOT a correctly assembled hinge, on the left - a correctly assembled hinge. It can be seen that one works, and the second is jammed.



And the bottom line is that at first glance, it seems logical to set the grooves for the balls on the body and the internal gear exactly opposite each other so that the balls fit there. But due to the inclination of these grooves, this way the hinge is bluntly wedged and cannot work. It is necessary to shift the grooves by one, then they do not coincide, but for that, when the axis is tilted, they coincide and the ball fits there. And so 6 times! ))
The photo shows the difference in the location of the grooves. Left is correct.



Maybe I’m writing obvious things, but I’ve read a lot of reports on the bulkhead of hinges, and nowhere they write about this nuance with the displacement of the grooves ... Although, judging by the reviews, they are often assembled incorrectly, and then disassembled / assembled, until The nth build time will accidentally fail correctly! ))
Let's continue - we fill the grease, put on the boot. Just in case, for sealant. It didn’t work out for me to roll the covers on deafly, so I pulled them together with temporary bolts.



Then we put on the outer boot and its cover, and collect the balls in the same way as on the inner hinge. We lubricate. Do not forget to put a rubber ring under the cover. External covers, thanks to the groove, can be well rolled up. We tighten the clamps on the anthers. The hinges work and the axle shafts are ready for installation.



Next we move on to the beam and levers.
Rear axle beam / wheel suspension [/ b]



My beam was with a boiled ear, so I bought a whole one. The levers are not in perfect condition - I have already changed spring plates on them before, but for that they are even. I bought the lower jet rods at a disassembly, as mine rotted into dust. Well, all this led to a beautiful view) Silent blocks of beams and levers - SWAG.



Left-hand side



Right side



Everything is symmetrical, the same, including the ABS sensors.



By the way, I also bought the sensors fresh - again in the hope that glitches in the ABS will disappear. They even have white markings for the location of the clips. The clips are all in place - two (#17) for each lever, and one bracket (#16) on each side per beam. I didn't have one so I bought a new one.

Next section
Rear axle axle/wheel bearing



Everything is simple here - the hubs were sanded and painted, everything else is new. Lock washers for nuts are original. FAG bearings - circlips and nuts included. Therefore, old rings and nuts updated with "yellow zinc" will not be useful.



Silent blocks, bearings and hubs were pressed in with a press. The silent blocks of the levers are pressed from the outer sides of the lever, and the bolts are inserted into them from the inside so that they can then be pulled out and the lever removed without removing the beams. Well, I picked it all up a little. I almost forgot to insert plugs into the levers - for some reason they are not in the ETK. By the way, it is important not to forget to fasten the brake disc shields before pressing the hub, but I will write about them separately later.



Here is the stub



All this is assembled.



I will tighten the nuts of the silent blocks of the levers and hubs after installing the beam on the car. The main thing is not to forget! )) ABS sensors will be installed along with the wiring.
We are waiting for the solution of problems with the differential one of these days and finally it will be on wheels! )

P.S.
By the way, the crack on the steering column bracket was safely welded, despite my nerve cells spent on it))



Packets started to arrive.



Including the decorative ring of the ignition lock, which I wrote about last time.



In the photo above I tried it on - it fits)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_31. Bottom painting

In principle, initially I did not intend to completely paint the bottom in color - only arches and along the rapids. Actually, this is how it was painted during development, and then, when painting, it was blown in the same way, but a little more. It looked like this, and I was quite satisfied ...



But ... before applying the sealant, I carefully wrapped all the threaded studs on the body with masking tape, and screwed the bolts into the threaded holes - this can be seen in the photo. Everything would be fine, but the painter forgot to remove the adhesive tape, and so he painted everything with it ... well, that's it ... After removing the adhesive tape, all the studs remained light gray, in the ground. It was stupid to leave them like that, so we agreed that the painter would paint them for me. But, as practice has shown, it would take another month, and the car must be put on wheels. Then I didn’t want to paint with a pendant and everything that was cleaned and painted in blue dust. So I decided to paint the studs myself. I blew out zinc primer, then acrylic, then gray paint.



It seems like the norm .... it will do! ...) But the blue bottom with gray spots of different shades of sealant, zinc, primer and paint began to resemble an avatar leopard))) Looking at the beautiful chassis, I decided that the bottom should also be beautiful! ) I remembered that I had seen a "pencil" and a container with paint according to the code from a colleague in the ward. I went and ordered the same for myself) They did it with me within 5 minutes. The color matched perfectly.
Individual 1991 - Pur Blau Metallic (253)



On the motor shield, the studs were carefully painted over with a pencil brush, and the bottom was blown out with one light layer of cylinders. Two were not enough, I ordered another one. It was not very convenient to do this while lying under the car, but it turned out beautifully! ;)













Now you can screw a beautiful rear suspension onto a beautiful bottom.
More on that in the next post.

P.S.
The place of welding on the steering column bracket was also tinted at the same time.


.

[The_Glory]

Build_14. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 2)

We continue to assemble the rear suspension.
ETK_33_Rear Axle

Final drive gearbox



There were some problems with the assembly of the differential - the original cover gasket costs a penny, but the delivery time was announced to me from a month ... (I ordered it, a month has already passed, but it is not there yet, and when it will be, it is not known). Therefore, I decided to cut out a home-made one, from special paper that had been in the stash since ancient times. The original gasket is also made of paper, by the way. I wanted to trace it around the contour, or make an imprint with the help of lithol - I remember this was done by my father in Soviet times on his Lada. But my brother suggested a good and simple way - to tap the contour with a hammer. I haven't heard of this method before - it sounds a little strange, but it works well. To do this, you need a small hammer and an adapter with a spherical tip. In my case, the pliers fit perfectly, at the end of the handle of which there was an ebb in the form of a ball. You can use a bearing ball. The technology is as follows - we apply a sheet of paper tightly to the lid and punch the bolt holes with a light blow with a ball. We fix the paper by inserting bolts into the holes. And so in a circle.



Then, lightly tap through the paper along the contour of the outer and inner edges of the lid. The paper breaks through, and we get a clear and precise contour of the gasket.



We cut through the places that are not punched with scissors, and we get a gasket that is no worse than the original one.



Now everything seems to be ready to assemble the differential.
Rear axle reduction card cover/impulse encoder



The silent block is new, the fasteners are all updated with yellow zinc.



I am missing item #11 - speed sensor connector cover. I have never seen anyone with her. Even in the photo of the new red 323i E30 (many have seen it on the Internet for sale), this cover is not. Yes, and it is not clear why it is there - in order to remove the connector, you will have to unscrew the speed sensor - some kind of nonsense. Maybe they stopped installing it from the factory later .... Although it is available for order. For the price of 65 Euro. I thought that I will continue to do without it)) Another detail with an inadequate price;)

I didn’t dare to climb inside - I didn’t have any complaints about the differential, so I decided not to interfere with its work further)) Accordingly, sections Flange bearings, drive shaft / sealing ring and Diff. output flange bearings/col. seal are skipped.





Although, in the first section there is an interesting entry in the ETK:
Additionally
Warning! drive side flange and nut should not be replaced.
ETK doesn't even have their numbers. I wonder why? By the way, this flange with a nut was smeared with sealant ... well, okay - I didn’t really want to replace them)) I just painted it.



My differential is not simple, but [s]gold[/s] with differential lock! By the way, looking at the current prices for them - it's still golden! )))
Differential blocking element rear axle reducer



Well, here it is, the almighty lock! )



For me, this is a rather complicated mechanism, and I'm not sure that I could then assemble everything correctly - all these preloads, disks, plates ... Moreover, there is such an entry in the ETK:
Additionally
individual parts are no longer offered
Yes, they can still be found somewhere, and the locks are being repaired, but this is not a cheap pleasure. And even more so, if you do it just like that, without good reason, then this is not very reasonable. ) Therefore, I didn’t get there either. I just twisted the flanges, checked the gear ratio again - it corresponds to the tabular data for the 325i. This is what the tag on the differential says.



S - differential lock
3.73 - its gear ratio
0632 is a part number that says that this differential was installed on the conveyor, and was not installed as a repair. On differentials that come as a spare part, the gear ratio is not indicated directly, but by the number of teeth on the gears, and there is also the letter A.
If someone does not know how to check the gear ratio - turn the wheel flange 1 turn and count the revolutions of the cardan flange (I have 3.73 turns) - this will be the differential gear ratio. For a more accurate calculation, you can make 10 turns of the wheel flange, then the difference will be more obvious at close numbers - 3.64 and 3.73 for example (I have 37.3 turns). In a differential with a block, both wheel flanges rotate in the same direction, and in a differential without a block, they rotate in different directions.

Before installation, it was necessary to press the silent block into the cover. And then, the second problem happened ... Often, the cover clip breaks .... I knew about this, and warned a friend about this, who pressed the silents for me. But it did not help) The lid did burst! I was very upset .... ((( Judging by the reviews, it makes no sense to weld it - the metal becomes brittle from heating, and it breaks next to the welding. I did not check this, and began to look for another cover. This is a very scarce part, respectively , and not cheap.But at least I was lucky here - the cover was quickly found, and not as expensive as possible.



On the second attempt, it was still possible to press the silent block without casualties. But I had to tweak it a bit. He was a little bigger than he should be. By the way, Silent Topran, made in Germany - sort of like German, but I don't know...
Now I have two covers) I can weld the first one later and there will be a spare ...



And finally the differential is assembled.



Gasket just in case planted on the sealant.





Screwed the gearbox to the beam. The axle shafts were screwed onto the thread lock. Although they used to keep it that way, but I read that sometimes they are unscrewed - I decided to overdo it))
Rear beam assembly. Everything is ready - you can attach it to the body.



Immediately poured oil into the differential, according to the classics, for differentials with disc locks - Castrol 75W140. The wide gearbox includes 1.7 liters.



It is much more convenient to do this before installation than on the installed beam. Just as it is more convenient to assemble the rear suspension on the floor, and install it as a whole, than separately install the beam, levers, differential, etc. The only negative is the large weight of the entire assembly. The process was further complicated by the lack of an inspection hole ... Therefore, for the installation it was necessary to involve a brother and a godfather, and come up with a technology for installation in place) They dragged everything together with a wooden door under the car, put a jack in the center of the door, and together with it raised a beam holding along the edges . At the same time, the entire beam can be moved along the plane of the door - quite conveniently. 15-20 minutes and the rear beam is in place.





It remains to put the rear stabilizer and amortization. But my godfather and brother and I decided to celebrate the successful installation of the beam, we got a little carried away ...))) Therefore, the installation of shock absorbers and stabilizer will be next time)

[The_Glory]

Build_15. ETK_33_Rear axle (part 3)

We continue to assemble the rear suspension.
ETK_33_Rear Axle

The rear beam is installed, it remains to install the stabilizer and shock absorbers with springs.

Shock absorber strut parts, rear



First you need to assemble the shock absorbers. Bilstein B6 sport shocks.



It's simple - we collect everything, as in the ETK picture (parts No. 8 and No. 9 are not used). We put a chipper on the stem, the lower large plate with the “bottom” up, the support with the paper gasket, the upper small plate with the “bottom” down, and tighten the new self-locking nut. Just like the front and rear shock absorbers, manufacturers highly recommend not holding anything on the stem and tightening it with a wrench. Therefore, we hold the stem with a key for 6 at its end, and tighten the nut with a key for 17. We get such a "sandwich".



Last time, when I collected shock absorbers for coilovers, I decided to put the upper plate on the contrary, "bottom" up - so it clamps the support more tightly and harder. This time I decided to put it like a book writes)
I put the duster last - it fits tightly on the bottom plate. But it seemed to me that it would be more convenient to immediately put it on the bottom plate, and put them together.
We put protective rubber caps on the top plate.
The lower bolts and washers were updated with yellow zinc, the upper nuts are new self-locking.
Shock absorbers are ready for installation.



Barrel spring kit



There's not much to write here.)
Springs are new, but not stock - Eibach Pro Kit E2003-140
Rear EW2003102HA -30 mm



Rear stabilizer



The rear stabilizers on the E30 were of several types, and were not installed on all cars. I have a rear stabilizer with a diameter of 14.5 mm - the thickest of the factory ones. It was installed in the M-Technic sports suspension package, and on the pre-styling 325i it was in stock.
Touring had 13.5mm stubs
On 4-cylinder sedans 12.5 mm as an option.
On the 14.5 mm stub, rubber bands are available only in the original. I bought them new a few years ago and they are still like new.
Details No. 8, 9, 12 are not used.
All fasteners are of course updated with yellow zinc.



We start to put all this on the car.
We put on the plates the lower and upper rubber gaskets of the springs. They come in different thicknesses - I bought the original medium thickness ones that came with the sport package.
By the way, here's what pleasantly surprised me - most of the suspension rubber bands that I bought a few years ago, despite our roads, are in excellent condition! This is due to the fact that I drive little and carefully, or because I then took either the original or the Lemferder. In general, I am satisfied with the quality! )
But back to assembly. Rear springs with -30 mm at the maximum lowered levers, easily steel without the use of ties.



Before putting shock absorbers, you need to install a stabilizer - so it will be much easier to put it in its place - between the boot floor and the differential. I screwed the lower mounting brackets to the levers even before installing the beam, but did not tighten them - they will need to be slightly adjusted in place to install the stub racks. We put on elastic bands, brackets, insert the brackets into the groove on the body, align the stub, and tighten it with bolts.



We put racks on the ends of the stub and fasten them to the lower brackets on the levers.



We adjust and align the brackets so that the stub rack moves without creases, and tighten the nuts. That's all with the stub.



Install shock absorbers. Before installation, some manufacturers recommend pumping them - compress and release the stem several times in a vertical position. Moreover, after pumping, they cannot be laid horizontally - otherwise, it will be necessary to pump again. Convinced of this on their front). Then it’s quite simple - we bait the lower bolt (do not forget to put the washer), insert the shock absorber into the mounting holes on the glass, jack up the lever, and twist two nuts from the trunk. Then tighten the bottom bolt. Amorths in place.



At the same time, I immediately installed the rear strut. In addition to increasing the rigidity of the body, the strut flanges also play the role of amplifiers for the rear glasses. Such washers were regularly installed on the E36, to distribute the load on the entire mounting plane of the glass. On the E30, this will also not be superfluous.



Well, that's all! Rear axle installed.
The main thing is not to forget to still hold on to the nuts of the silent blocks of the levers, and change, tighten and lock the hub nuts! )
Along the way, in order not to climb twice, I also put a handbrake - this can be seen in the photo, but more on that next time;)

And finally put the wheels!
in limbo)





And now the long-awaited moment - a solemn descent to the ground! ))) Finally, she is not on "crutches", but on her wheels, and you can already roll her freely!





It seems like a trifle, but my mood has already improved - at least some progress! )) Today I rolled it out of the garage for the first time - I'm happy as an elephant! Almost the first trip! )))

[The_Glory]

Build_16. ETK_34_Brake mechanisms (part 1 "handbrake") [/ B]

Let's move on to the next section.

ETK_34_Brakes

Since the rear suspension is already installed, when assembling it, I immediately installed the "handbrake", so as not to climb there twice. Therefore, let's start this section from the end:

Parking brake/control



Details No. 12, 15, 16, 17 are not used. They are designed for holding drum brakes.
Part No. 9 - a leather case, was placed only on the "Edition" package (black, gray, blue).
All cleaned/painted. I did not disassemble the lever button, it is normally pressed.



The lever housing in the ETK comes with a metal frame, but inside it I also found a plastic frame, which is not in the ETK. Didn't notice her before. Apparently, it is in order for the casing to keep its shape better.



In the ETK picture, I was interested in item No. 6 - I did not see it myself. Chet, by her appearance, thought it was some kind of stop-limiter for the lever. Where exactly it is put, I did not understand, but I ordered it just in case.



Everything cleared up when I picked up the lever. It turned out that this is a spacer clip - it is inserted from below into the skids for cables, and is bursting with a protruding pin. It separates the cables from each other. And I had it in its place safe and sound - you can see it in the photo above) So the new one was not useful.
In the presence of a rear stabilizer and disc brakes, the handbrake cables are attached with special clips with a bracket to the brackets of the stabilizer struts. Both of them were broken for me, besides, they were not installed correctly, so they did not hold the cables. I ordered new clips, I updated the brackets with yellow zinc.



Parking brake/brake pads



Now about the mechanism and adjustment of the handbrake.
It should be noted that even when buying a car, the handbrake did not work at all. As it turned out later, on the one hand, its mechanism was rusted to death, and on the other hand, it was completely absent altogether. I bought one mechanism at a disassembly, cleaned both of them, bought new original cables, new Ferrodo pads, and all this was assembled and somehow adjusted ... But for all 12 years, the handbrake never worked normally for me. Well, how - he kept on a flat surface, but on a large slope the car still rolled. There was no question of police reversals at all! ))) Despite all my efforts to adjust it, there was no sense - either it doesn’t hold, or it wedges, and the disks heat up. In the end, I scored on him.
By the way, the adjustment method described in Etzold's book is still crap. Well, I couldn’t turn this sprocket by touch, through the bolt hole of the disk!
In general, this time I'm still determined to defeat him! ) The cables and pads essentially remained new, as they never worked. The spring kit is new. Everything else was sanded, cleaned and coated with yellow zinc.



One pin (No. 6) was lost, so I had to get out of the situation with a light "collective farm") I cut off a piece of a 6 mm drill - it fit perfectly. Although, it was possible to order a new one, but the timing ....



The photo shows one locking spring for the adjustment mechanism. I never had a second one. Yes, in fact, it only interferes there - it’s not very convenient to turn the asterisk anyway, so this spring still wedges it all the time. By chance, the asterisk will hardly turn itself. Apparently, therefore, already on the E36, this spring was no longer installed from the factory. I decided not to install it either. In addition, this is another detail with an inadequate price. It costs more than the entire adjustment mechanism assembly - 12-15 Euros per piece. It seems not much and much, but for such a thing, especially not really needed, it seems like a bust ... But maybe later I'll order it ... if it's boring ...)

With a non-original spring repair kit, it was not so simple. The pad pins on one side did not fit the brake disc shields, but it's more like a shield jamb - there were just slots, without a round hole in the center, as it should be. If I had noticed this earlier, I could have drilled these holes, but the assembly is no longer accessible. Therefore, I had to grind two pins on a grinder. This did not affect the fixation of the pads.
The second problem is with the springs, and more complex.The lower springs are normal, but on the upper ones their ears are bent in the wrong direction. Because of this, the spring, resting against the shoe, almost does not reach the holes with its ear, and pops out at the slightest touch. I had to bend my ears - in the photo the first one is already bent from above, the second, as it was. It is better to bend hot. Otherwise, the norms of the spring.



In the photo, the number of the repair kit is similar. Maybe in other analogues the springs are correctly bent, but they cost much more.
We collect all this. We fasten the cable support at the bottom. We fix the pads with pins with springs.



Next, we put the adjusting mechanism in the grooves of the shoes, with an asterisk back. In fact, there is no difference, but Etzold writes so. At the same time, for wiring the pads on the left and right, the asterisk will need to be twisted in different directions.
Further, in my case, we play with the bending of the ears of the upper spring until it securely hooks on the pads, and at the same time, it does not interfere with turning the adjustment sprocket - like this:



I pre-screwed the cable brackets with clips to the stabilizer brackets.



In this form, the beam was installed on the machine. After that, we insert the cables into their body tubes and bring them out into the cabin.



We insert the other end into the hole in the lever and bring it out to the blocks. The cable is just tight. Lubricated his clips, so that he could be pulled out easier if necessary. We adjust and bend the brackets with clips and fix the cable in them.





We assemble the spacer mechanism, insert the eye of the cable into its groove and fix it with a pin. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture, but there is no other way to assemble it. We insert the spacer mechanism into the lower grooves of the pads with its hinge back, and pull the cable from the passenger compartment.
I did not regulate according to Etzold! )) We breed the pads so that the brake disc on them was dressed completely butt, but could rotate. We dress the disk, fasten it with a screw.



Let's go to the salon. We fasten the contact of the control lamp limit switch to the lever, and install the lever in its place. We stretch both cables through the grooves of the lever, make sure that the cables run exactly along the skids and are separated from each other by the same spacer clip that I mentioned above. We fix the lever with three bolts.



Raise the lever 5 clicks, and tighten the nuts on the cables until the rear discs are completely locked. We lower the handbrake, check how the disks are spinning. If necessary, repeat again - we still hold out the cables, or let them go. I finally managed to adjust the handbrake normally - it holds perfectly on the slope of my garage. Let's see how it will be on the go .... Now you can not only steer, but also slow down! )



The casing, of course, I will put already when assembling the cabin.
Hopefully it will finally work properly! Otherwise, without police turns, 12 years have passed in vain! ))))))

[The_Glory]

Factory documentation

In the assembly, I have another small pause, so this time we will talk about goodies. Well, it’s not that it’s really a rarity, but as they say - a trifle, but nice! (With) ))
Historically, it so happened that nothing came to me from the factory documentation of my car ... But I always wanted to have it ... for "feng shui", so to speak. But still, hands did not reach this point ... And recently, as it happens by chance, everything itself began to be! ))) First, a colleague in the ward gave me instructions for my radio, then, on occasion, I bought an original folder for documentation. Again, by chance, there was a card for the code in it, just from the same radio. Further, another colleague in the ward ;) presented a factory tag with configuration codes. And now, recently, another colleague in the ward ;) made me an offer that I could not refuse)) - he offered a good set of books at a good price. Of course I bought! )
And now I have such a complete folder



Inside which is another folder)



Rather, it is a transparent dense "file" with a pocket.



In a spread that fits all the books.



Set:
Operation manual, service book, list of dealers with maps and addresses, instructions for the radio, a card with a code for the radio, and a tag with bundle codes (although it should not be stored in a folder - after assembly I will put it in its place - under the rear seat; ) )



1. Operation manual



Unlike red cover books, this manual is not for a specific model, but for the entire model range.



Excellent condition



The characteristics of all models are described



2. Service book.



For model 316i, 4-cylinder (or door?), with catalytic converter. Date of sale 05.02.88. Color lachssilber (grey metallic). According to the specified VIN code, it is precisely such a machine that breaks through - everything converges)



The service history is not very long, but still there. Serviced in Germany by Autohaus Struwe, a BMW and Mini dealer in Lennestadt.





3. List of dealers with maps and addresses as of 87/88.



Addresses



Cards



4. Instructions for the radio and a card with a code for it.



BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS RDS



5. Tag with bundle codes.



Such tags at the factory were placed under the rear seat during assembly. According to the specified VIN code, a white 325i with a blue interior and good equipment breaks through. The release date is 11/29/89, or more precisely, at 20:05. German punctuality! )

Here is such a kit.



The set, although complete, is basic, so to speak, but still not quite “feng shui”… After all, it was assembled from different cars, and for restyled models. In the future, I hope to find a kit for 316 or 325i before restyling. And I’ll make a tag for the configuration myself for my car;)

And now all the same, about rarities! )
Thanks to another colleague in the ward ;) and his "tip", I bought a top-end Hi-Fi audio wiring for a standard amplifier.



The connector to the radio is cut off, but not critical - I will rearrange it from my usual wiring, it was also cut off there - audio tuning mp3 of the 2000s ...
A nice bonus, from the same colleague, was a gift - these are rare rubber bands - whoever is in the subject, he recognized them, I think ...;)





That's all for now. Build news coming soon.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_32. Painting of hinged body parts

A few weeks ago, the painter cheered me up with the news that I can bring a machine to assemble attachments - they seem to be finally painted! )
Everything was already prepared for me - the car was on wheels, the steering was installed, the handbrake worked - it was quite transportable! )
Quickly installed seals, hinges, locks.



And pulled it out into the street. I decided to save money on a tow truck)) I was too lazy to fool around with a trailer - you first need to go after it half a city, hitch it, then return home with it, load the car, then remove it, then drive the trailer back through half a city - a lot of unnecessary movements . Since it is already quite transportable, I decided to drag it on a rigid hitch - cheap, cheerful, fast and convenient.





And then it turns out that the painter has not yet painted everything, or even it didn’t work out there - in short - lights out ... As evil, it still rained - it’s good that I covered the body with an awning.



I drove it back to the garage last night...
A week later, attempt number 2))
Pulled out of the garage, hitched to the hitch and drove off. Much faster and more convenient than towing a trailer.



But not everything is as good as it seemed! )) At a speed of more than 40 km / h, a vibration appeared, which increased significantly with right turns. With left norms. After a few turns, I had to stop and see what was wrong there. And not so, there was a convergence on the left wheel, exposed "by eye". The right wheel was straight, and the left was noticeably turned to the left. Therefore, "thirty" all the time trying to overtake)) and very resistant to right turns). But there’s nothing left to do, there’s no time left, it’s not far to go - I turned on the emergency gang and drove at a speed of 35-40 km / h. Despite the fact that I created some inconvenience on the ring road, everyone looked at it, turned around, and the drivers of other BMWs even showed "thumbs up")) In general, I drove to the exit from the ring road - and then the right turn .... Slowly I turn along a large radius ... the hitch shakes .... and then even so bamm !!! I look in the mirror - thirty still went to overtake! ))) Damn, I almost crap myself! ))) On the brakes, and I jump out to catch it))) In short, the nuts tore out of the left side member, to which the hitch was screwed. Fortunately, it didn’t vomit on the right spar, so the hitch broke and the car rested its wheel on it, and didn’t drive into the oncoming lane to someone in the forehead ... Some guy ran in, thanks to him for the help - they dragged him, unhooked him, rolled him into the parking lot of the supermarket. In principle, except for the torn nuts, there were no casualties and destruction. And it could have been much worse... Called a tow truck while waiting for him, almost every passer-by took a picture of the car - apparently not every day you see a bare body on wheels in the parking lot of a supermarket)) After all these adventures, I finally got to the painter. They put four doors, but he still didn’t have time to paint everything else ...) Another couple of weeks passed, and finally the whole hinge is ready. By the way, the torn nuts were welded back in the same place and painted. Picked it up yesterday. On a tow truck! )))







The gaps still need to be set. The doors are still norms, and the muzzle was screwed in hastily, as it happened.
But she already looks like a car)







I still have to play around with the hatch...



There are a few "grains" on the door and trunk, but after polishing they will go away - as the master promised. It remains to paint the body kit .... it is already prepared, and they promised to do it in a week .... but I don’t even believe it ...))

Further plans - processing of all hidden cavities. I will process with the composition of APP Profile F400. I ordered a pistol. As soon as everything arrives, I'll start. I also made a "revision" for all body plugs - I figured out where which ones are put, some are there, some must be ordered before.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_33. Processing of hidden cavities of the body.

All body parts are painted and hung - the next item on the work plan is the treatment of body cavities with anticorrosive. Materials for the preparation of the body and sealants were used by APP, so I chose the anticorrosive agent from the same manufacturer - a penetrating ML composition with APP Profil F400 wax. It has good reviews and good value for money. It is available in two colors - amber and clear, in 0.5L aerosol cans and 1.0L pistol cans. I could not get any data on its consumption either from sellers or find it on the Internet, so I took 4 cylinders per liter "by eye". Two amber for doors and sills, and two clear for more visible areas. And, just in case, one aerosol can of 0.5 liters of amber. I bought a gun for these cylinders with a tube for cavities, and another spare tube. Like the norms prepared)



Decided to start with spars. I screwed a tube onto the gun instead of a nozzle ... and from the very first attempt something went wrong! )) There is a hole on the lid of the gun for air intake, so that a vacuum is not created in the cylinder. And when you first pressed the "trigger" of the pistol, for some reason the anticorrosive agent went not into the tube, but into this hole with a fountain up! How I managed to dodge him, so that my whole face would not flood - I don’t know! ))) But I did it! He soiled the roof, fender, hood ... Wiped everything, and began to look what was wrong. It turned out that amber anticorrosive is many times thicker than transparent. I don’t know why .... their expiration dates are normal and the same, the composition according to the description is also no different. In general, he didn’t want to be sprayed through the tube, the air blew into the balloon, and the anticorrosive agent again flew up in a fountain! ... The balloon was already swollen - it’s good that it didn’t burst! It would be totally fun! ))) I had to screw a self-tapping screw into this hole and try without a tube - it sprays normally, but in the end it compresses the balloon with a vacuum, well, that’s already ...



I decided to blow out without a tube wherever there is access - I started with the doors. I sealed all the holes with masking tape from the outside, so as not to fill the paint, and at the same time, following the traces on the adhesive tape, the coating of the cavities with anticorrosive will be visible.







By the way, my right front door is now the safest) - with a shockproof bar. Apparently, from a car of the last years of production, or maybe from a car with an airbag.



I poured it from the heart, as for myself! )







The drainage drains remained through and did not clog tightly with anticorrosive, after the anticorrosive has dried, I will check them and periodically clean them.
I decided to remove the wings and apron in order to properly process all the surfaces under them and the spars from the inside.







The wings were covered from the inside with the same sealant as the bottom, but I decided to blow them out with anticorrosive as well - it would not be superfluous.





Further, I paid special attention to the niche of the heater and wiper motor, knowing the problems with its drainage. To begin with, even before that, I spilled all these niches with water - not a drop got into the cabin, all the water leaves, as it was intended by the factory. That is, they welded and treated with a sealant everything is fine there, and the carpet promises to be dry for many years)) Moreover, the drainage of the hatch is now also brought out from the front. But to be sure, I shed even more well drains niches.







It also blew well through the speaker holes into the front corners of the thresholds - a classic place for rot, although now it should not rot - as I said above, water from the hatch will no longer pour there.
The next problem with the E30 body is the rear arches, especially the right one. There is access there - it is also flooded from the outside and from the inside.



The front apron was blown out with the remnants, although it was also already covered from the inside with sealant.





This is the end of 2 bottles. I blew out the last aerosol can in the rapids. Included with it was a thin long tube, and in aerosols the anticorrosive agent was more liquid - it puffed into the rapids perfectly. Rather, in comparison with the compressor, it does not spray, but pours. Therefore, the aerosol can ends at lightning speed. Moreover, they write that 0.5 l is the volume of the cylinder itself, and the anticorrosive in it is about 0.3 l + air. Therefore, it is more profitable to buy cylinders for a pistol - there is still 1 liter of anticorrosive.
It remains to blow out the hidden cavities ... Transparent anticorrosive is much more liquid, but he did not want to be sprayed through the tube ... simply fucked up. ((Googling, I realized that it’s not only me. People write that you need to either heat the cylinder, or take a tube of a larger diameter, or shorten this one. I heated the cylinder in boiling water, cut off half of the tube - and everything worked fine! I don’t know in than a joke, but - Victory !!))
There are a lot of factory holes in the sills and spars, so even half the length of the tube is enough. I poured it first from below, then from above from the trunk and the passenger compartment, until it started to flow from below.



From below, on the rear spars, it was especially "convenient" to do this, lying under the car ...)) But still filled in all the holes! ) Just spilled thresholds along the entire length and the front spars.
Just in case, I blew out the motor shield, where it will be covered with soundproofing.



Transparent anticorrosive is almost invisible - it gives a matte tint, so for more or less visible areas it suits better than amber. Although it takes much longer to dry.
The rest blew out the niches in the trunk and the joint of the floor with the partition.









And this anticorrosive ended completely.
It remains to blow out the trunk lid, hood and front frame. In order to "do not run twice" again) I bought another transparent one liter and two aerosol cans. I sealed some of the holes and also filled the ribs of the trunk, front frame and hood from the heart.





You can clearly see from the adhesive tape whether it has been spilled everywhere, and at the same time, the transparent anticorrosive agent is almost invisible.



The rest was already poured into all the holes that I saw)) - into the beam under the torpedo, into all the roof pillars, along the perimeter of the hatch trough. The only thing that has not been processed is the manhole cover. There is nowhere to pour there, and maybe even then it will "stick" somewhere there even ... I didn’t dare ... Well, there’s also a tank hatch - there’s nowhere to pour. )

As a result, the whole body took 5 bottles of 1 liter, and 3 aerosol cans of 0.5 liters.



I am satisfied with the result - the coating is uniform, after drying it practically does not stick, and it looks much neater than any bitumen, especially transparent. At first it stinks, but after a few days the smell was almost gone.
I hope that its quality will not disappoint me over time, and the body will live happily ever after! ))
On this optimistic note, we can solemnly declare that the body work, in spite of everything, and against all odds, is finally fully completed! Hooray! ))
Now it's just build, build and build again! )
The problem is only with funding, in light of all this with viruses and quarantines .... ((But I hope that everything will work out .... or I will find another job ....)

P.S.
During this time, I began to deal with soundproofing and wiring, but more on that later, when there will be some result.

[The_Glory]

Club calendar 2021

Traditional club calendar entry)



According to the voting results, the best 12 photos from 32 participants got into the calendar.

A preview of the entire calendar Ukrainian Club BMW E30 for 2021 can be viewed [url=http://forum.e30club.com.ua/index.php/t ... msg1010907]here[ /url]

In my most "rosy" plans, I expected that my car would participate in the competition this year, so to speak, in a new look .... but even it did not work out .... at least be in time for the next competition in 2022 .. ..
But so far, and in the old "interesting color", she took 4th place out of 12 ;)



Picked up my calendars today.





P.S.
The calendar is no longer available. Who did not have time - he was late! )

[The_Glory]

Build_17. Body wiring (part 1)

For a number of reasons, my assembly stopped a little .... and all these holidays and all that ...) But the process, albeit more slowly, is still going on. In order not to waste time at all, I decided to do wiring - this does not require a lot of money, but it requires a lot of time. I like to tinker with wiring), so I decided to take it thoroughly. As long as there is free access to all connectors and wires, I will do what I haven’t done before, finish what I haven’t done before, and redo what I did before! ))) In general - a complete revision and upgrade. For a long time I have had such an idea - to use all the connectors in the wiring - "full" should be everywhere! )) I have been doing this for a couple of weeks now on quiet winter evenings! ) I have not yet reached the final result, but there is already an intermediate one. Therefore, the wiring will be a "miniseries" in several parts. So, part one - Body wiring.
The wiring has been lying in a cardboard box in a "ball" for the third year already, and it is obvious that in order to work with it, it needs to be unraveled and laid out. There is no room for this in the garage. I wanted to lay it out in the workshop on the floor, but there is sand. He spread the film and began to lay it out. But then even I thought that it would drag on for more than one day, and during this time you need to walk here - someone will definitely trample some kind of connector. And I got a great idea - to make a special stand! ) For this, the old chain-link mesh was perfect - and it was just enough in length.



By the way, my help dog spends these winter evenings in the garage with me)))
I unraveled and hung out the body wiring, including the wiring for the power windows and the central lock.





I examined it, and came to the conclusion that it was necessary to unwind it all, inspect it and rewind it, because even though it all worked, in some places the condition was far from ideal. For example, wiring to the fuel pump:



Power window wiring with some incomprehensible knots and bows.



The long-suffering connector of the driver's door with twists and jumpers:



The passenger door connector seems to look a little better.



The wiring under the dashboard was initially laid in general at random. I already tried to shift it correctly, but it did not quite work out as it should. Now I'll fix it "by Feng Shui".



The front end with headlight connectors also looked sad. A few years ago I already rewound them with "Soviet" rag tape, but it "mummified")) It dried up, stuck with mud, and began to break like brushwood.





I started to unwind - it turned out to be more difficult than I thought. In some places anticorrosive and bitumen glued the electrical tape tightly, in some places there were all sorts of "collective farm" electrical tapes, of various colors and types, which were very poorly unwound. The most severe turned out to be green - I had to stupidly cut it off. There was a lot of glue, anticorrosive and dirt on the wiring, so I washed all the wires and connectors with white spirit with a toothbrush, then washed the connectors with white spirit from the compressor. Here is the tool - a scalpel, a spatula, a toothbrush and a lot of white spirit. And the result is half a box of scraps of electrical tape, and clean, bare wiring.



And then I freaked out even more! If the rear part of the wiring was in quite good condition, then its front engine compartment is a horror - twisting on twisting ... When I put restyled headlights, I cut off the old connectors and "pinned" the connectors from restyling. And now I was surprised that there were already twists a little higher along the braid - someone changed the connectors before me ... in the end - a bunch of twists. We will remove all this and bring it back to normal.





The left door connector will most likely need to be changed completely.





For that right after washing, almost like new.



And connectors C302, C103, C101 are planned to be stuffed to "full"! ;)





Bought the necessary tools and materials.



Tesa bought electrical tape - in the original it is exactly like this, but when ordering from officials it costs 4 times more. I took 5 skeins of fabric, 2 lavsan, and 1 PVC. Fabric - for the interior, lavsan - for the engine compartment, trunk and external wiring, PVC - for isolating twists and fixing branches - it is the most sticky.
I bought two types of heat shrink - regular and glued. On glue it is more rigid and airtight - I used it on the branches of the bundles, soldered only the edges.
Thanks to a colleague on the E30, stocked up with donor pieces of wiring and connectors. There are also stocks.



I did what should have been done a long time ago - I printed out the complete ETM for my wiring in '86, and just in case for '89 - it's much more convenient than separate sheets.



Well, and away we go! )) Light creative mess in the process )



My wall-mounted semi-hood was very useful - a convenient magnetic board)



At the moment, the front (engine compartment) and rear (salon and trunk) part of the body wiring is already ready. Nearly all connectors have been replaced on the front, unnecessary twists have been removed, the rest have been crimped and insulated. I made an extension cord on the factory connectors for the antifreeze level sensor, since the tank is in my radiator. All harnesses are rewound with lavsan tape.







At the back, everything was much simpler - I replaced the connectors with number plate lights, and removed the "collective farm" corrugations from the pump harness. I rewound the trunk harness with lavsan tape, and the interior part with fabric.



For the first part, I think enough. Next time - about upgrades in the middle part of the body wiring.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_34. BBS body kit painting

Now, everything is already painted! The body kit was painted, of course, not in a week. ) But I was not in a hurry, because there was something to do, especially since New Year's holidays and all that. And the day before yesterday, finally, he took everything. Although, not all - the rapids did not fit. I didn’t want to scratch or bend them at all, so I’ll have to go for them again one of these days.







Foliage on the door, "eyelashes" and "sickles".



Have not decided yet, what is the best way to glue the lining - body or glass sealant? If someone glued something similar, I would be grateful for feedback or recommendations.

The Breyton wing is now, as it should be, without an additional brake light.



Mirrors and small things in the box - headlight rings, grille rims, towing eye cover, fenders and rear arches.



Spoiler - again, it has been proven once again - rubber can be well painted if you know how and how - the spoiler bends, presses in with your fingers, and does not crack at the same time.



Back apron.



I forgot to take a picture of the front one, because I brought it to the attic so as not to scratch it. Because I will put it last.
One of these days I will buy stainless steel screws, sealant, and it will be possible to start putting the body kit so that it does not lie "underfoot". The main thing is that frosts -20 do not hit again ... And then adjust the gaps with overlays.
For painting - it will still be necessary, after installing all the body parts, to paint over the fasteners, and the sealant on the front fenders, as it was at the factory, and tint the trunk lid from the inside. And then the final polishing ... but I have no idea when exactly it will be ...)))

[The_Glory]

Plans…

Man proposes, but God disposes. (c)

Almost a year has passed since the last entry ... Almost a year ago, a terrible event happened in my life, after which I lost interest in the car, and not only in the car ... There were thoughts to sell everything as it is ...

I don’t know why, but in my life almost nothing and never goes the way I plan ... So last year I planned to assemble a car by the end of October - for the birthday of my eldest daughter, and give her a gift for her anniversary. Did not work out. Then, after the New Year, I promised her that I would soon collect "thirty". I wanted to give her a surprise gift at the E30 festival. She loved our "thirty" very much and dreamed of driving it ... But God judged otherwise ... Soon there will be a year, as Yulia is gone ... Time goes by, but it does not get easier ... and, probably, it will never be . During this time, I did fulfill everything that I promised Yulia, but I did not have time then. I don't know if that made sense now...but I did. In addition to his last promise - the assembly of the "thirty". And this year, on her birthday, I sat and thought about a lot of things, remembered a lot of things .... including this promise of mine. On that day, I firmly decided that I would not sell anything, and I would still finish assembling it - in memory of my Yulia. My wife and youngest daughter also support me in this. The youngest daughter has already asked several times why I do not finish the assembly of the "thirty". She also loves and waits for her. In the summer, she even secretly took her girlfriends to the garage, showed them. She left this picture:



Previously, I would have scolded, but now it was even nice.
The car was covered with a thick layer of dust - it's been standing like that for almost a year ...







But over the past month and a half, I have already begun to do at least something - I bought a lot of things, prepared them. I'll wash it over the weekend and keep collecting. No more plans - how will it go ... Then only assembly notes.

Yes, - now the machine will have a new name - Shadow of Intelligence

[The_Glory]

Build_18. Electroplating and painting parts

The next batch of parts and fasteners lay all this time in the garage, which is why surface rust appeared on the bare metal. That's why. I had to sand and clean everything again.
Various brackets:


Fasteners for them, and not only - several of these "sets":



And galvanization - galvanization with passivation, i.e. "yellow zinc".





Many of the details didn't look great. Some, like this:



By the way, I was lucky to find this bracket in good condition. Mine completely rotted away.
Some parts looked better, some even worse. Therefore, I collected all the details that need to be painted, and sanded. This time, instead of sand, I used abrasive powder - the norm is a thing. He also used a pistol with a "closed cycle" - i.e. the powder is poured down into a pile, and from there, again sucked into the gun - also very convenient. Plus, now there is a normal electric hood - it's much more pleasant to work with sandblasting.







I have already mentioned that my tank was completely rotten along the joint, and I glued it right on the road several times with "cold welding" (by the way, it holds the norm). I was lucky to buy a great whole tank.





But under the fixing mortgages, rust has also begun to appear on it. Therefore, I removed the factory preservative, and sanded it locally at the junction and near the tube. Found some markings.





The cleaned parts that are placed under the bottom are covered with zinc primer. And I prepared such a set of pieces of iron for painting:



A set of materials and tools - APP 2-component epoxy primer, 2-component paint, black gloss.



I will say right away - the painter from me is not very good. It seems that it’s not the first time I’ve been painting, but it doesn’t work out without smudges. Although, the ground is cool - this time it lay perfectly. But the paint, with smudges, in places, even drops dripped ... I don’t know what it is ... Well, something like that ... for such pieces of iron, the norms.
We hang "garlands" of pieces of iron.



Two coats of 2K epoxy primer.



Tank, neck, and other parts that are placed under the bottom covered in three layers of black anti-gravel.





And the final painting in black gloss with 2-component paint in 1.5-2 layers.



Buck, just like new turned out.





The drain plug from the factory was covered with some kind of protective coating, so I didn’t touch it - I blew it out.



The same thing with the S-shaped tube - I didn’t unscrew it, sanded it off, coated the nuts with zinc, rubbed the copper lightly, and blew on top of it in three layers of transparent varnish.



A few details will still need to be painted silver on top, for order.
By the way, for convenience, I made such a list of parts, and their colors according to the factory.



I don’t pretend to be true - when compiling, I used the ETK and a photo of new original parts on the internet. Some parts were found in two color options. Maybe someone will come in handy "for Feng Shui".

[The_Glory]

​Club calendar 2022 and "rarities"

Traditional club calendar entry.
This year I did not take any part either in its creation or in the competition. Accordingly, my car is not there, but the calendar turned out, as always, beautiful. Thanks guys.



During this year, I did nothing with the car, but the habit of monitoring flea markets remained - at least to distract myself with something ... Therefore, I did buy a few rarities during this time. There are no photos, I just folded them in the garage.
Actually, this is wiring for four power windows, a rear seat with an armrest (for constriction into a "goose foot"), a mirror with lamps in excellent condition, a whole plastic of motor wiring, a green rear window (as it turned out later with a broken heating terminal).

But over the past two months, as he began to do something with the car, as they say, it just flooded into rarities!
The first is a set of Michelin TRX tires - for more than a year I watched this announcement, purely out of interest, since the price was like on eBay, and at that price they were not interesting to me. But apparently no one wanted to buy it, and when the price was reduced to a reasonable one (as for me), I decided to pick it up, in a set with my "metric" "bottle caps", which a friend gave me a few years ago. It’s good that I didn’t make tables out of these wheels, or some other crap, as I was going to - now there will be a set of rare wheels.



Vryat I will ride them, but as a rarity for photo shoots - super. I still need to buy caps for them and paint them. But more on that later and separately.

Startec - how much in this sound ... (c) I dreamed about them since I bought the E30, but I was greedy to pay $ 300 for them thirteen years ago ... And now, when the prices for them on eBay have become within 800-1200 $, and we have about the same as on eBay, I understood, and resigned myself to the fact that I will never have Startec ... I started looking at replicas, transparent glasses on eBay ... then I completely forgot, so as brought in a great view of their stock lights. But suddenly, by chance, I saw Startec for sale at a good price, albeit with minor jambs. And now they almost never meet without jambs. I decided that I should take it, otherwise I really will never have them. And here they are with me.



Which I am very happy about. Later I will bring beauty, polish, and it will be super. Special thanks to my friends for their assistance, and, in fact, for the lights and the organization of delivery.

Another old dream. I don’t want to dismantle the entire interior again later, and without air conditioning - this is not a “full”. Therefore, I bought an air conditioner kit - it should arrive soon. On occasion, the other day I bought another fan for it - it will be in reserve.

Recently I saw aluminum spacers for sale - a Hartge replica and an Eibach original. My homemade spacer, although it looks pretty decent, but it's not so cool. The original, of course, is more expensive, but I decided that it would be logical to put an Eibach spacer to the Eibach springs.



You also need to bring beauty and polish.

Well, again, on occasion, one of these days a set of information stickers and a new clean service book should arrive - although they are replicas, they are also a kind of fetish.

Look like that's it...
Well, according to the assembly, "the ice has broken" (c) But more on that later, and separately.​

[The_Glory]

Build_19. Air conditioning kit. Bought. (part 1)

So, as I mentioned in the last post, another idiot's dream came true! I bought an air conditioner, which I dreamed about almost from the moment I bought the car ... Otherwise, the equipment is almost "full", but there is no air conditioner ... It's not serious (c). I bought it not expensive, obviously not working, - for restoration. So the story promises to be long and interesting. In the first part, I'll just show what exactly I bought, and then we'll sort it out and restore it...
I would be grateful for tips and advice.
Actually, here it is, happiness in a box!



And inside the box



The set seems to be complete, but with big and different nuances...



Heater with evaporator,



One recirculation damper, of course, was already broken, and repaired with improvised "collective farm" rivets, and it is unlikely that it could work like that.

The tubes are all intact, but need to be cleaned and galvanized. The body rubber of the tubes was filled with a dull body sealant, if it was picked off.



Fasteners tubes need almost all new.



Pressure sensor with "collective farm" adapters / plugs, performance is unknown ...



Posting with minimal casualties, we can say that the whole. As it turned out, it is for restyling - you will need to somehow combine the heater connector with my pre-restyling wiring ...
A couple of hours with ETM diagrams and a tester - and everything seems to be clear, and not as scary as everyone usually writes ...



The capacitor looks intact, the fan too, but with a broken low-speed resistor.
The dehumidifier, of course, needs a new one.
The compressor with fasteners, the button and the temperature sensor arrived a little later, so they are not in the photo. More on that below.
According to legend, many years ago, the entire kit was removed from the car from the M20 at the well-known in narrow circles in Odessa, disassembly of the E30, and in the same place, it was installed to the client along with the M42. For some reason, it was not possible to start it, and the car drove for several years with a non-working air conditioner, until the consequences of "collective farming" came ... How it was installed on the M42, and the consequences of this, in the photo below.



The compressor with a bracket for the M20, apparently, didn’t really want to get on the M42, but the grinder and welding work wonders! The bracket was slightly filed, slightly bored, bushings were put in, a metal adapter plate was made to it, and somehow they were put on the M42!



But, apparently, the calculation was not very accurate, if at all, and something went wrong - skewed, and the ears of the compressor were torn out ...



So the car and went until completely rotted, and was bought as a donor. Then she stood like that for a few more years with my friend, until I bought this, that's all ...
Fortunately, I quickly found and bought a whole compressor with a whole set of fasteners for the M20. But there is a moment - the first one was BOSCH and there is only one wire on its connector, and the second one is like SEIKO, and there are three wires.



Are they compatible and interchangeable at all?

I forgot one more unpleasant moment - in addition, the valiant delivery service during transportation broke the lower part of the stove body and the ear of the upper damper ... fucked up. I was already thinking of sculpting something from a conventional heater ... but again I was lucky - purely by chance, thanks to a friend, another air-conditioning heater case with an evaporator was inexpensively found, and most importantly - with whole dampers !!



Just in case, I bought another fan, with a whole resistor - but earlier, judging by the impeller and connector, - for before restyling.



I wanted to sort it out, since it worked very noisily, I took it apart, but the impeller doesn’t want to be removed, I’m afraid to break it ...
Then another one turned up, the same, but again, with a broken resistor, for that with the right connector - I bought it just in case.



And now - "we have what we have!"
Two heaters, two evaporators, two compressors, three fans...
And it is not yet clear whether this will be of any use ... I hope that it will.


P.S.
Even I got too lazy to write ... I lost the habit of something ... There is already something to talk about, but so far there is no time and desire ... But soon there will be news, the assembly process is going little by little ... In the meantime, "preview" .

I bought bags for fuel:





All hoses, plastic tubes, stainless fasteners:



I bought bags for brake:



All pipes are steel, as expected.



Reinforced hoses are still going.

There is also progress in vibration isolation and noise isolation - it seems that it turned out not bad.
But for today, maybe that's all.

[The_Glory]

Cup "Machine of the Day" 02.01.2022 and "rarities"

Wow!
Four years ago, I first got to the polls - completely by accident, but missed them. I learned that I took second place the very next day. And so history repeated itself. Yesterday, for the second time, I again accidentally, without any "promotions" and "races" got into the elections, and again missed them for the second time, as I went to the village to visit relatives for the New Year's weekend, and did not go to the Internet. But this time, he won. Heard about it from friends on the phone. Very unexpected and very nice! Thank you all for your support and choice. I really appreciate it, especially now. Now the motivation to assemble the car will be even greater.
THANKS.



I was never interested in likes, ratings and other garbage. Never aspired to get into the elections. Maybe that's why I missed them for the second time. But the result still shows that the car is interesting, and the blog is useful to people. This is more important than the cup, as for me.
But still, it's nice to get it. Once again, thank you all for your support in the elections, and for your support in general...



Thanks to those who read and write on my blog, I hope you find something new, interesting and useful there. I will try to keep it that way.



Good luck and victories to all!

And here came my cup "Machine of the Day" 01/02/2022[/URL].



Immediately opened to see - it's really big! I even imagined it much smaller in size ...









I put it on a shelf in the garage. By the way, the stickers were included.



Well, at the same time, I'll boast - the second batch of "rarities" arrived, which I really lacked for the "full".

Rear power windows - I wanted them for a very long time, but did not come across. And here suddenly, there were several options at once. I bought separate mechanisms with cut wiring. I already have all the wiring for four power windows, I wrote about this last time. Power windows are "ideologically" correct for pre-restyling - "rope", like my front ones.



Then I bought a set of original buttons for them - four main backlit buttons (two in the console, and two in the rear doors), a rear window lock, and a common automatic fuse (it will be a spare).



I also bought green glass before restyling in the rear right door - now, finally, I will have all green windows and all power windows.

The next rarity is quite rare, I was looking for the same thing for a very long time - the lining of the trunk lid. Although, they sell fiberglass replicas, but they are so crooked and dumb that I did not dare to buy one. And here we were lucky again - the original is in excellent condition, and is also nearby.





Now I don’t know what to do with a large tool box ... Should I try to fit it on this lining, or not .... Especially since my usual box is fully equipped with tools, and the large one is completely empty ... We will see .. .

And another rare that I already had, but could not pass by. Hatch fairing.



I already had it installed - a branded "aftermarket" from ClimAir. And this one is exactly the same, I think that it is from the same manufacturer, but with one difference - instead of the drawn ClimAir logo, it has the BMW logo stamped on it. Those. This is exactly the original option from the factory equipment. So it will be more correct.



Last time I mentioned TRX "bottle caps" and tires for them. I bought a set of caps for them.



Emblems, of course, I will buy new ones. One cap is bent - I'm looking for another even one.

Another small "rarity" is a new screen for the radio "Business RDS". Now she will have a great sound and look.

Everything seems to be ... I'm waiting for the next batch of new bags to arrive, and I will continue to assemble. Soon there will be entries on the assembly itself.
Further already in real time, so the recordings will be much less frequent.

[The_Glory]

War.

It seems that everything is against me finishing this restoration... I just started doing something - the damned Rashists started a war! I only had time to glue the vibration insulation, install the noise insulation, and started laying the brake pipes. and prepared the details for electroplating.








In the first days of the war, I managed to receive a parcel with new bags.



But again it was not time to assemble the car... I took the family further from Kyiv, and returned to meet the shitty "rashists". When the rockets started falling very close to the house, I had to use the garage in the basement as a "bomb shelter", and the "thirty" as a "safe" - I moved more or less valuable things and warm clothes there.





So the car stood again for almost half a year...
But in the summer I decided that war is war, and something must be done. So, there is some progress on the build, but then there was no time (or desire) to write about it. Therefore, I will write only now.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_20. Electroplating and painting of parts

Again, I had to re-prepare the parts for electroplating, as during this time they were covered with surface rust.



And also prepared the next part of parts for galvanizing.





I painted a few more details. Materials and technology are the same as before.









I tried to paint plastic with special materials for it.



I almost forgot to write about what I managed to do even before the start of the war - vibration and noise insulation. About that next time.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_21. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 1) Soundproofing

The next assembly will be on the ETK section
ETK_31_Body equipment

I'll start almost from the very end of this section - Soundproofing



This includes vibration isolation and noise isolation of the cabin. In fact, it had to be done even earlier, since at the factory the vibration insulation was glued before the body was painted, and the noise insulation was installed before the steering column was installed. I deliberately glued the vibration insulation after painting - it seems to me that this way the metal of the bottom will be better protected from corrosion under it. And the steering column had to be installed earlier so that the car could be transported to the painter. And anyway, the previous owner cut the sound insulation so that it could be removed without removing the speaker. So, I installed it like that, then glued it. But it is correct to install the sound insulation of the motor shield and torpedo BEFORE installing the steering column and the cardan rail.
I started with vibration isolation of the bottom. On the diagram, this is part No. 13 (51 48 8 165 271) - it is a sheet 1160X700 mm. It can be ordered in the original, but its price is too high, in my opinion. Therefore, I bought a similar material and much cheaper - StP Vyzomat 3.5 mm, 4 sheets 530x750 mm.



You also need a special roller for gluing sheets and a heater for heating. Cleaned and degreased the surfaces.











In advance, based on photos on the Internet and prints of old vibration insulation, I drew and printed paper templates.





After several try-ons and adjustments, I received the exact patterns of the patterns, as it was at the factory. Photos of this process and the templates themselves are lost somewhere, but I will post the template files in .pdf format later.
Next, heat the pattern with a fan heater and tightly roll it with a roller. Photo of the finished result.
Right side:





Rear seat:



Left side:





General appearance:



By the way, does anyone know why the insulation in the rear part was so strangely glued from the factory? It is not symmetrical, but the left is shifted forward, and the right is shifted back.
As you can see, factory vibration insulation remained on the gearbox tunnel, which was painted over.



For a more aesthetic look, I decided to make it black as well. It is very difficult to wash off the paint, so I just painted it black and then sanded it down. The same texture turned out - it looks much more beautiful this way.













The vibration isolation of all doors and the spare wheel niche remained factory. It is in excellent condition.


Next, we proceed to sound insulation of the rear roof racks - No. 7 on the diagram. They are no longer available to order, so I selected the most similar material for them in the "car audio" store. Based on the old prints, I made a template and cut it out.





By the way, the racks of 4-door cars are similar to 2-door cars, as they also have cutouts for installing side window handles that open.



Prepared the surface and glued.









Sound insulation of the roof No. 3 and No. 4 is used only on cars without a sunroof, so we skip it. For cars with a sunroof, it is different, and will be shown in the corresponding section on the sunroof.

At this point, we complete the insulation that is glued, and move on to the insulation that is attached with various clips. In the diagram, this is part #1, consisting of three parts (left 51 48 1 916 443, right 51 48 1 962 048, middle 51 48 1 916 442) and #2 (51 48 1 906 393).
For convenience, I made a table on their fastening with the numbers and number of clips, since it is not specified in the ETK.



I also added the clips and nuts on the motor shield cover to the table.
I do not pretend to be the truth, I did it simply according to logic - where there is wiring, I put it with lugs where there is no wiring, ordinary ones. Although clips and nuts are interchangeable. I replaced a few if available, it is not critical. I did not use nuts #10 for a screwdriver, as they are then very difficult to unscrew.
On most cars, this insulation has long since turned to ash, or has been replaced with modern materials. But I was lucky to find it in pretty good condition. And the left and right parts are completely new.









Let's start with the salon. I will repeat again - IMPORTANT - sound insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column and hood cable. Otherwise, it will have to be cut. I did not take this into account, so I had to cut it, and then sew it to the right of the column, and remove the cable.



The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.
It will also be fixed with the glove box bar on the bottom by three studs when it is installed.



Installed



Next, we move to the engine compartment.
The left side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the hood cable. I had to remove it.
The right side - here you can see where the clips are placed.



Again, an important nuance - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the battery cable. I did everything right here.

The middle part - here you can see where the clips are placed.
In the upper part, three clips for the brake tube are placed - I will write about this later in the corresponding section.



There are even more nuances here - the insulation must be installed BEFORE installing the steering column with cardan shaft, vacuum brake booster, fuel, brake pipes, clutch hoses and interior heater radiator hoses.



Installed.



There are two more details on the diagram - No. 5 and No. 6. This is sound insulation of the floor. On pre-restyling cars, it was separate from the carpet. I doubt that I will find it in better condition than mine, so I will restore mine to normal condition. I will install it after all the wiring is laid, so I will write about it later.

[The_Glory]

Next, we go to the section
Blocks/plugs



To finish insulating the bottom, we will first deal with its plugs. Here they are:



Diagram No. 18 (51 71 1 972 464) is a plug for the holes in the spars and the bottom. But this number has different plugs - rubber, metal with sealant, and plastic. Apparently, they changed with the years of release. I had the whole team The price of a new plug is $30 - a bit too much for me. That's why I didn't start ordering all the same new ones, but put rubber ones on the left and plastic ones on the right. In my opinion, rubber ones are better. And metal ones with a sealant are disposable, or they need a new sealant. There should be 4 plugs on each side. But on the left, one middle one is welded on the spar, and on the right, the lateral one is welded in the bottom. That's why I have three of them, but the cutouts in the insulation are made for all plugs.
There are two plugs in the transverse beams for fastening the seats. I did not find them at all in ETK, so I also put the old ones.
By the way, I pre-treat all holes with wax.

Left side.





Right side. A rectangular cutout in the insulation is provided for fastening the accelerator pedal on right-hand drive cars.





On the right, there is another plug on the engine shield near the gearbox tunnel - you can see it in the photo. According to ETK, it has a diameter of 35 mm, but in fact there is a hole of 20 mm. I had it closed with a metal plug for sealing. But she rotted. Therefore, I closed it with a suitable size plastic plug No. 9 (51 71 1 801 066).

In the diagram, part No. 5 (41 12 8 200 462) is a metal plug for the large holes in the rear part of the bottom. For me, these holes were simply welded and smeared with sealant. That's why I don't have these plugs.





Now some more general information on the stubs I found.



A large shield with a gasket and clips is a cover over the fuel tank (on the diagram #1...4).



Plastic plug for spars 52 mm - on scheme No. 18 (51 71 1 972 464)


Plugs 14 mm below the middle of the thresholds (2 pcs.), and in the upper supports of the rear springs (2 pcs.)


Plugs 6.9 mm on the battery shelf (2 pcs.)


Plugs 12 mm on the sides in the thresholds in front of the rear arch (2 pcs.)


Plug 20 mm No. 9 (51 71 1 801 066) in door sills, rear shelf, trunk floor, etc. (~20 pieces)


I will add information about other plugs during the assembly process in the relevant sections of the ETK.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_22. ETK_34_Tormoznye mechanisms (part 2)

After installing noise insulation, you can install brake pipes and the entire brake system.

I bought all new clips, rubber plugs and fasteners for this.


New steel brake tubes with a polymer coating - the front ones are original, and the rear ones are an absolutely exact analogue of the Polish manufacturer WP. The thread on all tubes is M10, and the length of each is indicated in the ETK.


A set of reinforced brake hoses is also from the Polish manufacturer PHU Donocik Racing.
You also need a special key for bending pipes - without it, it would be difficult to bend steel pipes.




So, back to this section.

ETK_34_Tormoznye mechanisms

In the first part, I already wrote about the installation of the hand brake, and in the second part, we will talk about the tubes and the hydraulic drive of the brakes for cars equipped with rear disc brakes and the ABS system.

Let's start with the front.

Pipeline of the brake actuator Pd


Front tubes:


Clip #7 in the diagram is no longer available to order, so I replaced it with a similar hose clip. I think it will be fine.

You need two hose clamps #2 for the front tubes, but you need 10 of them in total for the car - just like in the photo, there are 10 of them in the package.


The right front tube is fixed with three clips No. 6, which at the same time are the fastening of the sound insulation of the motor shield - I already wrote about this recently.




The tube exits into the arch through the rubber insert No. 3.


And it is fixed with a clamp to hose #2.


The same is true on the left side.

I fixed the left tube together with the right one with clip #7 on the edge of the glass. I'm not 100% sure that this was the case from the factory, but I can't see any other place for this clip.




Both front pipes go to the place of installation of the ABS hydraulic unit.


The rear pipes had to be bent into place, so for this, a vacuum booster with a brake master cylinder and an ABS hydraulic unit must first be installed.
Let's start with the ABS hydraulic unit.

ECU of the anti-lock braking system


All brackets and bolts were galvanized, the body was cleaned and painted. The cover was painted by a specialist with texture paint for plastic - I liked the result.


I cleaned and treated the contacts of both relays with a contact spray, assembled the block, installed the fasteners.


The ABS hydroblock is ready for installation.





We screw the fasteners to the ABS electronic unit.




We install the ABS relay in place.



Clean contacts, ready to install. But after laying all the wiring.


We put the rubber cushions of the hydroblock and the "mass" bolt G104.


Insert the third pillow into the groove and fasten it. We also screw in the "mass" wire.


The ABS hydroblock is installed.



Next - a vacuum brake booster. I have written about him before. I was lucky enough to find a twin amp from an E30 325ix that becomes a bolt-on. But during the installation, some nuances were revealed - more on them later.

Vacuum brake amplifier


Parts #7, 16, 17, 20 are not used.
The diagram shows a normal amplifier, so the photo below has parts that are not on the diagram. Namely - the original factory transition spacer with a gasket, thanks to which the double amplifier from the E32/E34 becomes a bolt-on E30.


Spacer from E30 325ix (35 21 1 155 135)


Another part missing from the diagram is the clip-bracket for the fuel hose (13 31 1 714 455). The rod is not relevant to this section, but it screws into the vacuum amplifier, so it's here.


Part No. 2 is an air filter that is no longer available for ordering. Judging by its remains, it is an ordinary paralon. I cut it according to the dimensions taken.


Rubber parts.


Double vacuum brake booster assembly.


I put the prostaka on the thread sealant - that's how it was from the factory.


Next is the master brake cylinder.

Master brake cylinder/reservoir




The brake master cylinder for the dual vacuum booster is different from the normal one. That is why detail No. 3 is missing in it. Also, the cover may not fit the wiring of the brake fluid level sensor. There are different connectors, but the covers can be replaced with each other. We install the tank and the lid - everything is simple.


It remains to screw the cylinder to the amplifier. Do not forget to put a new rubber ring between them.


We also do not forget about the bracket for the fuel hose - it can be seen in the photo.


Ready to install.


Of course, the vacuum amplifier is attached to the body together with the pedal unit, but there will be a separate section about it.
The amplifier is installed.




The next photo shows the same nuance that I wrote about at the beginning.


The double amplifier has a greater thickness than the usual one, in addition, thanks to the spacer, it has shifted significantly forward. And now, obviously, there will be some difficulties when installing the power steering tank - it will no longer fit into its place. It will be necessary to come up with something to fix it in place. But we will solve problems as they arise. Then we'll see...

And now that the ABS hydraulic unit and brake master cylinder are installed, you can bend and fit the brake pipes under them.
We start with the tubes of the ABS hydraulic block.

Pipe line of brake drive c ABS Pd


I kept my ABS pipes, they were in good condition. Just cleaned and painted them.


I ordered new plastic tube holders, but then it turned out that I had them all, so they did not fit.




We fit the tubes and connect the master brake cylinder to the ABS hydraulic unit.

On the cylinder, the front fitting is the outlet for the front brakes, the rear fitting is for the rear brakes.

The fittings on the ABS hydraulic unit have the following markings:
V - front entrance
H - rear entrance
l - exit to the front left
r - exit to the front right
h - output to the rear

We screw the tubes and align them with plastic holders.




An analogue of the front tube holder that I mentioned earlier.


ABS tubes are installed.


It remains to install the rear tubes.

Pipeline of brake drive Zd


Parts #7 and #8 are not used. Judging by ETK, they are intended for machines with a maximum load of more than 1700 kg. I think we are talking about towing a large trailer, or carriage.
Brake force regulator No. 7 (34 34 1 156 716)

is placed after the master brake cylinder, and spacer No. 8 (34 32 1 156 869)

is attached instead of the usual brake force regulator No. 5 (34 33 1 152 494)


So, in my case, the usual brake force regulator is installed.
Rear tubes:


Clip #15 (34 32 1 158 467) on the diagram - I still did not understand where it can be placed. It is indicated that she is alone. But I had 5 clips on the bottom in the back. So I ordered it. But they did not fit at all in terms of fastening. It's good that my old clips remained intact - I put them in so that I wouldn't have to wait a few more weeks.
Clip #4 (34 30 1 161 567) is no longer available for ordering, but there is a substitute (34 32 6 855 500) - suitable. Only 4 pieces are needed, two for each rear lever.
No. 2 hose clamps are required for the rear tubes in total seven pieces.

Let's start with the installation of the brake force regulator. The bend of the tube here had to be made smaller. Then I will show why.


The brake pipe is laid along the bottom parallel to the fuel pipes and fastened together with them.
This mount is located in the fuel line section. Therefore, I will write about him later.


It's good that even though the fuel pipes are already bent from the factory, I bent the brake pipe along them. I will say that it is not very convenient to bend a 3-meter steel tube while lying under the car. Especially over the rear beam. By the way, this is where the clips that the new ones did not fit are put. The photo shows the old ones.






And here are the consequences of bending the tube, which I wrote about at the beginning. I made a very large bend on the brake force regulator and missed several centimeters of the tube to where the tee mounts. In addition, the tube itself was 3 cm shorter than the original. There was no desire to straighten and rebend the entire steel tube. I also didn't want to pass the clip over a shorter distance, so I made an extension bracket for attaching the tee. A little collective farm, but neat as it is)))


Further, from the tee to the left and right sides.


Left hose


Left lever - two clips.


The left hose is on the lever


Right hose


Right lever - two clips.


The right hose on the lever


So, all tubes and hydraulic brake actuator for cars equipped with rear disc brakes and ABS are installed.
It remains to install only the brake calipers. But first they need to be brought into proper shape. Therefore, I will write about it later, in the third part of this chapter.

[stones]

WOW. What an incredible build and story.
I can't wait to see it finished, it looks like it will be brilliant.
Thank for sharing it with us.

[The_Glory]

WOW. What an incredible build and story.
I can't wait to see it finished, it looks like it will be brilliant.
Thank for sharing it with us.

Thanks.
I myself can't wait!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_23. ETK_35_Pedal control

As I already wrote in the previous section, the vacuum brake booster is attached to the engine shield together with the pedal unit. Therefore, we proceed to the next section of ETC:
Pedal control

It is more convenient to install the accelerator pedal first, and then the pedal unit. Therefore, we start with this unit.
Accelerator pedal drive/LP cable


Accelerator pedal details.


Details #3, 18, 19 are not used.
I didn't have the locking bracket #6 at all, so I bought a new one, and also bought new rubber bushings #11, 13 for the spring, because the old ones were rusted and fell apart. Everything else was simply cleaned and painted.
The number of rubber bushings is not correctly indicated in the ETK - you need one of each. They differ in width. Wide No. 11 (35 31 1 113 725) is placed on the accelerator pedal lever, and narrow No. 13 (35 41 1 113 728) is placed on the pedal unit.


For some reason, I forgot to remove plastic bushings #7 and rubber stop #10 for the pedal lever before painting. Therefore, I had to clean them well from the paint. But they were preserved in good condition.


Details of the cable assembly


For some reason, I also forgot to unscrew the stop of the accelerator pedal before painting, although I tried later, but could not. I didn't want to break the bolt, so I left it as is and painted it.


By the way, about the stops - as it turned out, there are two more, the existence of which I had no idea. In the photo below, the places of their installation are shown by red arrows. I have already said about the upper one - it is a rubber stop (35 41 1 158 149) of the accelerator pedal lever, which I had not noticed before under the paint. And the lower one is the stop of the clutch pedal - about it in the next subsection.


The assembly is very simple - we insert the bushings into the brackets, lubricate them with silicone grease, insert the lever and lock it. We fix the pedal in the bracket on the bottom. By the way, this is a "weak" point of the E30 - water from wet shoes constantly flows down the pedal onto this bracket and it rusts very badly. I had a welder make it anew. Therefore, just in case, I filled it with anti-rust. One more point - the pedals and brackets are different for restyling and restyling.
Next, we connect the pedal to the lever, but we do not put the locking bracket yet - so that we do not have to remove it again when installing the noise insulation and the interior carpet. We insert a spring with a rubber insert No. 11 and a cable with a rubber insert No. 9 into the lever. We put the same stops that I mentioned above.


We lead the cable through the motor shield, and fix it in the hole with latches.


Next, we proceed to the installation of the pedal assembly.
Brake light pedal/switch


Details of the pedal unit.


The mounting is galvanized, the pedals are painted, everything is cleaned.
I cut gasket #2 (35 11 1 150 370) from splenium, although it is available to order and is not expensive, but in the original it is made of foam. In my opinion, in this place (as well as the steering column gasket), splenum fits much better - it does not absorb moisture, which can provoke corrosion.
Pedal bushings No. 9 (35 21 1 109 541) are missing from the photo. Actually, they are there, I just didn't remove them from the pedals.


They sit there very tightly, there are no signs of wear and play, so I decided not to touch them so as not to break them, because new ones are unreasonably expensive. So I painted it.


Rubber bushings #12 and #18 under the springs are the same as on the accelerator pedal. Their number is also incorrectly indicated here in the ETK. Wide No. 18 (35 31 1 113 725) requires one, and narrow No. 12 (35 41 1 113 728) requires two. The wide one is placed on the clutch pedal, and the narrow ones on the bracket of the pedal unit (brake pedal) and on the body bracket of the steering column (clutch pedal).
In total, 35 31 1 113 725 - 2 pieces, 35 41 1 113 728 - 3 pieces are needed for the car.


Rubber pads on pedals #8 and #16 are the same - 35 21 1 108 634.
I bought new ones, for beauty, although mine were still more or less normal. By the way, there are inexpensive analogs, but judging by the reviews, they wear out very quickly.


Parts No. 32 and No. 34 are used only if cruise control is installed on the car - this is its switch with a bracket. There will be a separate section about cruise control, but it is more convenient to screw this switch now than later to an already installed pedal unit.

Part No. 31 (35 21 1 155 135) is a spacer used only on all-wheel drive restyled E30s. I already wrote about it last time - it is needed for the "bolt-on" installation of the double vacuum brake booster from the E32/E34 on the E30.








I already mentioned the stop of the clutch pedal. I saw a bushing on the engine shield with a broken bolt in it, but I didn't even know there was supposed to be a stop as it was broken under the carpet. But after seeing it in ETK, I ordered it. It consists of two parts - a plastic screw #21 (35 31 1 152 237) and a rubber pad #20 (35 31 1 153 896) on it.




The emphasis is on assembly.




He began to look for where it was placed and took a closer look at the sleeve. Under the paint and sealant, it turned out not to be a bolt that was broken, but a plastic stop screw.


It was easily drilled out, and the stop fell into place.

On the diagram in the ETK, two parts that were installed by me are missing - plastic covers of the head of the axial bolt of the pedals.


Maybe they shouldn't be there, but I saw them in a photo on the Internet, so I left them. They perform their decorative function.

But I don't have detail No. 22. This is some kind of additional spring on the clutch pedal. It is not on all E30s, and it probably depends on the configuration or year of production - I don't know for sure. I have a clutch master cylinder ring instead - it is there in the photo.

So, we assemble the pedal unit according to the ETK scheme.


Do not forget to put a splenic pad. And the place for the stop of the clutch pedal is already ready.


We fasten 4 nuts to the vacuum brake amplifier, and 2 bolts from above to the steering column bracket.
We attach a spring with a rubber sleeve from the clutch pedal to the same bracket.
We fix the rod of the vacuum brake amplifier on the brake pedal. We hook the spring of the brake pedal without a rubber sleeve to the rod bolt.
We hook the spring of the accelerator pedal with a rubber sleeve to the bracket of the pedal unit.
We screw in the stop for the clutch pedal.


The pedal assembly is installed.


It remains to screw the clutch master cylinder to it, but more on that in the appropriate section.