E30 M3 minor rust repair (few finished pic's)

Doing a minor build / restoration or an epic one, post it here

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x-works
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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:00 pm

With that taken care of it was time to move onto another job I'd been putting off
for a while. Fitting the airbox snorkel (arrowed below).........

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The snorkel is what the airbox draws it's air from and it's fitted down beside
the radiator at the front of the engine bay where it can suck in some fresh cool
air from the front of the car...........

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Unfortunately it doesn't come supplied with an airfilter of any kind and
while there are various solutions out there for this I decided I'd have a crack
at making my own, and this is how it came together.

Cardboard template for a filter housing box........

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check it fits........

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transfer to aluminium x2..........

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some 25mm aluminium channel.............

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chop, chop, bendy, bendy..........

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clamp all three parts together........

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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:04 pm

and join with some countersunk rivets because it would appear either I've
his wrong address, or, Santa doesn't know what a fuckin Tig welder is..........

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after which some M4 threaded rivets are fitted to allow it to be bolted up to
the car.........

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and bolt it up to see if fits........

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So far so good.
Next up, the snorkel was going to have to fit against the inside of this filter box
and this provided the first little hurdle to overcome.........

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I would need the snorkel to suck all it's air through the filterbox if the filter
was going to work and as you can see below the mating surfaces weren't
exactly what you might call airtight........

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More cardboard and another template.......

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x-works
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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:07 pm

Copied over to some thick aluminium..........

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apply bonding agent to correct proportions, 50% on snorkel flange,
remaining 50% on hands, clothes, work bench.........

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and then leave to dry. The last time I bonded something it slipped over night
and proved a right pig to redo, since then I like to take a little precaution or two..........

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end result, a nice flat mating surface..........

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With that done the next step was to sort out the method of attaching the snorkel
to the filterbox.
When planning this step out I figured it might make life a little handier down the
line if the snorkel was relatively easy to fit and remove as it'll need to come out
for some of the routine maintenance jobs such as changing fan belts and the oil
filter. With this in mind I wanted to try and avoid bolting it on and maybe try another
way of securing it instead.
So,
couple of hole's in the front face of the snorkel........

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the notches arrowed red above are to line up with a pair of M5 bolts
shown below in the filter box which act as locating dowels.........

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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:10 pm

And the reason for the larger (green arrowed) hole shown above is to mate up
with this little latch..........

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Which is known to me as a "Waverly latch". As is par for the course by
now I've no idea what the rest of the world might call it.
As you can see below, the flange of the snorkel fits over it and then the little
black part is twisted locking the flange in place........

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and it's fitted in place like so............

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last job on the snorkel was to apply some foam tape to the flange to give
it an airtight seal when fitted............

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and then pop it on. In the pic below you can see the right hand side is
sandwiched between the filterbox and the front of the radiator, which
keeps it in place and the left hand side is locked in place with that
little latch..........

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All that was left to do now was stick in an actual air filter.........

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x-works
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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:14 pm

The filter shown above has the K&N part number 33-2085 and is listed
for an 8.4 litre V8 Dodge Viper, which I felt a little chuffed about,
right up until the invoice arrived an I realised the Viper uses two of them.
Moving on.
Those of you with a keen eye may well spot a slight problem that was about
to reveal itself on the next step...........

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resisting the urge to use the "universal problem sorting tool" i.e.the hammer,
I decided for a more civilised approach instead........

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chop, chop.......

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each end of the filter cotton is bonded in as standard on a K&N........

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So a little Tiger Seal..........

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and leave to set overnight........

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Final item required was something to actually hold the filter in the filterbox.
Again cardboard template.........

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magic wand.......

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x-works
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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:17 pm

Bend it into shape........

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and a couple of appropriately placed screws attaches everything together........

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splatter of paint to improve the appearance.........

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Which leaves the finished product looking like so..............

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And thats about all the waffle I can muster up today.
Will try and get some more up as the week goes on.
Till then............
Kedge
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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:21 pm

:notworthy:
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BenHar
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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:51 pm

x-works wrote:In the pic below you can see the right hand side is
sandwiched between the filterbox and the front of the radiator, which
keeps it in place and the left hand side is locked in place with that
little latch..........

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I'm not sure I'd be happy with that. Having the snorkel rubbing against the radiator doesn't seem a good idea.

But I'm sure you've thought it through.

Ben
x-works
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Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:56 pm

It's all good Ben, both items are static so no chaffing.
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BenHar
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Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:05 pm

x-works wrote:It's all good Ben, both items are static so no chaffing.
Goodo. Shouldn't have doubted you, sorry!

Ben
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Fri Nov 11, 2011 6:34 pm

With the air filter done and dusted and the radiator, fan and oil cooler
now in place the final item to sort out in this area was the fan resistor.
The electric fan on the M3 has two speeds, half speed and full warp.
For full speed the fan motor is sent 12 volts and to get the fan to run
at half speed the 12 volts is ran through a resistor on it's way to the
fan to kill off a few volts.
As mentioned earlier I've chosen to replace all the components in the
fan set up on this car to finally rid it of an intermittent fan fault and the
last component to be changed is this fan resistor.
I've chosen not to buy a straight forward replacement for the Bmw resistor
for two reasons. 1) they're overpriced from the dealer for what they are
and 2) as I fitted an aftermarket Spal fan I can't be sure that the factory
resistor will be the right resistance to get this fan to run at half speed too.
So, there may well be some trial and error buying different resistors till
we hit the sweet spot.
The picture below shows the standard Bmw fan resistor and the aftermarket
one I've bought............

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The part number on it is "Arcol HS 100 R5 J". Despite looking totally
different to the original resistor it's practically the same resistance so should
work just like the original. And the plus point is it cost 6euro.
The resistor comes with a tab each side to allow you to solder it into
the wiring loom............

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After the wiring part was taken care of came the task of mounting it. The original
resistor used to mount up to the side of the old fan housing and as my old fan was
now at the end of the rubbish bin it didn't seem to make a lot of sense fitting it there.
So, somewhere new had to be found.
Two things needed to be kept in mind when looking for it's new home, these resistors
create quite a bit of heat when in operation so it would help if it's mounted somewhere
in the incoming airflow to help keeping it cool and if it could be bolted to a metal surface
this would also help it conduct the heat away.
So I decided to kill two birds with the one stone.
The radiator on this car has a nice plastic cowl around the sides and bottom of
the radiator to direct as much cool air through the front of the radiator as possible.
However as you can see in the picture below this leaves a bit of a gap across the
top where air can take the easier route over the radiator rather than through it.......

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I'm not sure it there's a specific panel to fit in here to block the gap but either
way I don't have one and have decided to make one.
Usual routine, cardboard template, transferred to aluminium, bend it the
wrong way, curse alot, take a break, return a while later and make it the
right way.........

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Happy that it fits, tart it up........

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x-works
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Fri Nov 11, 2011 6:37 pm

Once in place two holes can be drilled in it........

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to allow the fan resistor to bolt up to it, which mounts it in the path of the
incoming air and against an aluminium surface, both of which should help it stay
cool.....

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The last bit of tonight's little addition is the exhaust system which is
a much straight forward affair. The original system was fairly well
toast due to old age and rust. I've decided to replace it with an
aftermarket replica centre section picked up on German e-bay.
Both the new and old are shown below side by side, the difference
being the old one had catalytic converters fitted where as the new
one is a replica of the non cat centre section..........

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The quality of the replica seems decent with all pipes having identical bends
and diameters. It isn't however made from stainless steel like the original
but on the plus side it cost a little over 200 euro delivered as opposed to
the 1600 euro the original costs. Yep, you read that right.

While being a fairly good replica it still needed a few small modifications to
fit up nicely. Nothing major, just an inch lobbed off the end of the pipes to
shorten it ever so slightly.........

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and the hanger brackets tweeked a little to let it sit right under the car........

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With the centre section taken care of the the backbox going on is a genuine
item..........

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all of which should keep the exhaust note at the same levels as when she
left the factory, which is the goal. I've had my share of noisy exhausts over the
years and I'll be quite happy if all the noise from this machine comes from that
airbox up front.

Before the system could be fitted a few new heat shields needed to go up first
to replace the old disintegrated ones......

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once in place the system could go up............

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making sure to adjust the rear axle exhaust hanger brackets.......

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so that each rubber is carrying its fair share of the weight...........

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Hopefully it won't be too much longer till I can get some smoke out of these pipes.......

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Thats it for tonight, next up fuel system.
goosiegander
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Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:56 am

Awesome! :D
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Sat Nov 12, 2011 2:18 pm

Been reading this for the last 3-4 hours... 8O It's a bit special! :D


Would you be willing to allow this to be used on the Zone Wiki? As I think it would be awesome on there, all cut down to just your restoration... Then obviously as you go, more is added each time... Anyone wanting to restore their E30 can take alot from this :cool:
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Sat Nov 12, 2011 7:21 pm

Getting close now! Looks great!
Kedge
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Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:19 pm

That's looking awesome.

Did you replace the foam insulation on the bulkhead/transmission tunnel as well as the metal heat shields? Mind giving me an idea of the price if you did, going to get mine done on my chromie build. 8) :D
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death
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Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:49 pm

awesome
x-works
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Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:50 pm

Thanks for the kind replies lads, much appreciated.
Struggling to find a bit of time to write up the fuel system
at the moment, I'm knee deep in wiring trying to
sort out the engine loom and not set fire to the car.
Hopefully should have it up in the next while.

Jim320i
Would you be willing to allow this to be used on the Zone Wiki?


If all goes according to plan I hope to publish it in a sort of
manual type thing when finished (if print medium is still around
when that day arrives).

Kedge
Did you replace the foam insulation on the bulkhead/
transmission tunnel as well as the metal heat shields?
Mind giving me an idea of the price if you did.


I don't keep receipts I'm afraid, as soon as I've bought parts
for the car I like to try and forget as soon as possible how
much they cost. I can now walk into a main dealer, pay for
parts and drive home without ever having remembered leaving
the house. Sorry.
Kedge
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Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:27 pm

No worries fella, I'm doing something similar with my receipts. Be ace if you can get this published, won't be cheap with all the pics though I bet.
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Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:34 pm

Could turn it into a e-book... No need to pay for publishing then :D
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Thu Nov 24, 2011 2:20 am

this is an epic car build id love to have the skills you have but im only young so plenty of time to learn i suppose being 20 lol you sir are a legend in my mind

one question about your exhaust those clamps to joint the exhaust near the rear beam where could i get them they look much stronger than what im using , do these work well as its joining two pipes the same diameter , lods of paste inside??
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Fri Nov 25, 2011 9:55 pm

BATTS, not completely sure if they are the same as X-WORKS, but
the exhausts Clamps are avaiable from BMW.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=18&fg=05

Part No 3. I should have some old pics of mine somwhere, remind me at some tine and i;ll dig them out.
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Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:52 pm

ooop's, sorry for the delay replying. The above info is spot on
and are indeed the clamps seen used in the pic's of my car.
Mine were good to be reused and I've never priced them
in the main dealer, they are stainless steel though so I'd
imagine they might cost a few quid.
No paste needed either, which is always a pleasant surprise.
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Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:11 pm

wicked ill have to see how much these badboys cost would make my system better and less scrapage onthe bumps thanks guys , anymore progress on this x-works lovely motor
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Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:10 pm

Excellent write-up as always. Thanks and keep up the great work.

Also what resistance is the resistor you used?

Reason I ask is I have never found out what resistance the original BMW resistors are, as they are always buggered.
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Sat Dec 03, 2011 12:28 am

Wow wow bloody wow, awesome work man.
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Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:39 am

just finished this HERO
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Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:34 pm

x-works wrote:
to allow the fan resistor to bolt up to it, which mounts it in the path of the
incoming air and against an aluminium surface, both of which should help it stay
cool.....

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A couple of points if I may.

The resistor will be mostly in use while the car is stationary and where you have it now it won't see much moving air with the car stationary, because of this the resistor should be placed in direct flow from the fan, so I would suggest moving it to the top left corner as the fan will throw much more direct air there, or move it to a fixed bracket directly in front or behind the fan.

The Ali shroud in its painted form will not help cool the resistor as paint acts like a thermal insulator.

I have never seen an e46 rack with those style of inner tie rods, it's a rack from an e36 for sure.
E30_KIID
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Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:25 pm

This is such a epic build! X-works, you have another follower!
Vintage BMWs are an addiction.
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:43 pm

Having read only half of this thread today, you have done an amazing job. Real enthusiasum and dedication right there.

Im reading the other half when the wife gets home, god bless her.
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Tue Feb 21, 2012 3:09 pm

Just spent most of my day off reading this from the first post - the best write up and restoration I've ever seen.

I love you x x x
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Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:18 pm

Well, it's taken a bit longer then expected but it's finally time for another little update.
The last of the big obstacles to getting this car back on the road was always going to be
the engine management. As you've probably seen I've made a fair few changes to original
engine specification and as a result the original ecu in its standard form is no longer
suitable to take care of the fuelling and ignition requirements of the engine.........

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As the engines breathing capabilities and compression ratio have both been increased
these two factors alone would have left the original fuel and ignition maps inside the
stock ecu unsuitable, however there has been one other major change in the hardware
that meant changes were going to be necessary. The stock ecu's main
method of measuring the amount of incoming air so it can figure out how much
fuel to inject is the airflow meter.........


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and thanks to my new fancy airbox the airflow meter has now been relegated
to measuring the stagnant air in the bottom of the bin........

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There's a clatter of different solutions to solving this particular problem and the
route I've chosen to take is an aftermarket ecu. The brand I've chosen to go with
is DTA and the model is an S40. It's the entry level ecu in the DTA range and although it
lacks some of the bell's and whistles of the more expensive ecu's out there it should
do everything I need it to just fine.
He said,
with his fingers crossed.

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Unfortunately, as with most things in life, and, on reflection, almost everything
in this bloody restoration, things aren't just as simple as they first seem.
Along with the ecu change there was going to have to be some changes to the
rest of the hardware too.
As mentioned earlier the main method of measuring the quantity of incoming air
to the engine (the airflow meter) had been dumped because of it's restrictive nature,
so we're now left with the dilemma of how the new ecu is going to figure out how
much air is inbound.
And the answer is a throttle potentiometer or throttle "pot", if, like me, your mentally
challenged when it comes to speling.
The S14 engine already has a throttle pot of sorts bolted to the end of the throttle bodies........

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But, if you crack it open what you'll find is it's actually a "throttle switch"
rather than a "throttle pot"...........

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The standard ecu already has the airflow meter to tell it how much air is coming into the engine
so all it uses this switch for is to see if your foot is off the throttle or demanding full warp speed
with the throttle pedal planted deep into the carpet.

In the pictures below you can get an idea of how I think it works.
(not be be confused with how it probably really works.)

The body of the switch is bolted solid to the throttle bodies so it's not moving,
but, the little arm in the middle of it (purple) is stuck on the end of the
throttle butterfly shaft, so as you open and close the throttle the arm moves around too.
Along with the arm there a little switch and a set of contacts inside here too.
The ecu is constantly sending 5 volts to throttle switch (middle pin) and
when you have your foot off the throttle that little purple arm is resting on
the idle switch closing it's contacts.........

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This allows the 5 volts to travel in from the middle pin, through the
closed switch and back out the bottom pin and off back to the ecu,
as shown in the pic above.
Once the ecu see's 5 volts coming back this wire it knows your off the gas
and the engine needs to idle, so it stops looking at the info coming from the
airflow meter and instead just concentrates on using
the idle control valve to keep the engine ticking over nicely.

The minute you start to press the throttle the little purple arm moves off this
switch and the contacts open again (can usually be heard as a little click).
From a tiny bit of throttle to almost full throttle the little arm moves around
inside not touching either the idle switch or the full throttle contacts.........

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As the little arm isn't pushing either switch closed the 5 volts coming
in the centre pin has no route to take back to the ecu. Once the ecu
see's no voltage coming back from either wire it knows your motoring
along and it needs to pay attention to the airflow meter to see how much
air is coming in so it can calculate the fuel and spark.

The final use for the throttle switch is when you mash your foot to the floor.
As you pass the 90% throttle open point the little arm presses the set of
full throttle contacts closed. Once again the 5 volts coming in the centre pin now
has a route to make it back to the ecu..........

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The 5 volts travels over the contacts and out the top pin back to
the ecu and once the ecu see's voltage coming back this wire it knows
that you require full warp speed and it adjusts the fuelling and spark
accordingly.
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Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:22 pm

Now, while all that works out just nicely for the standard ecu, unfortunately
it's not worth a flying fu*k for our new ecu. Our airflow meter is gone
and we now need a lot more info from the throttle than just fully open or
fully closed. If we're going to be looking at how much the throttle is open
to gauge how much air is coming into the engine then we're going to need to
know exactly how much the throttle is open all the time.
So we change the throttle "switch" above for a throttle potentiometer shown
below...........

Image

Although it bolts on in the same place and has the same amount of wires
going to it, the inner workings of a throttle pot are fairly different.

Once again the ecu always is sending 5 volts to the throttle pot,
but the difference this time is that 5 volts enters the pot and travels around
a resistor track slowly dropping voltage till it exists the far side where
only about half a volt has made the full journey.........

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Now this time instead of a little arm connected to the throttle shaft
we have a little "wiper" which is hooked up to the middle pin of the
throttle pot. This little "wiper" rubs up against the resistor track and
carries the voltage at that point back out the middle pin and off to the
ecu.

With the throttle only pressed a little bit the wiper is pressing against the
beginning of the resistor track where the 5 volts is still strong and it carries
back the voltage at this point to the ecu........

Image

As you begin to open the throttle a bit more and the wiper moves
around (it's connected to the throttle shaft) the 5 volts has started
to drop around the resistor track and as such the amount of voltage
the wiper is sending back to the ecu drops off.......

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Right up until you start nearing full throttle where theres only
a small amount of that original 5 volts left to send back to the ecu.......

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So basically depending on the voltage going back to the ecu it
can now figure out exactly how much you have the throttle open,
and as a result, start figuring out how much air is entering the engine
so it can do it's calculations of how much fuel to add and when to
fire the spark.

Now, with the bullshit taken care of it's on to actually nailing
the new throttle pot in to place.
With the old throttle switch and it's mounting plate removed theres a
fair bit of throttle shaft left sticking out...........

Image

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And as only the tip of this shaft is needed to stick into the new throttle pot
we're going to need a spacer to take up the gap. I've gone with one made
by Massive, available here.......

http://www.massivebrakes.com/accessories.php

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x-works
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Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:26 pm

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But there was one more issue to take care of before the throttle pot
could be fitted. The new throttle pot uses M4 size bolts to mount it
on the engines it's used on, and, we need to use M5 sized bolts to nail it
on to our S14's throttle bodies. As a result the little "collars" on the throttle
pot are too small for the M5 bolts to pass through.........

Image

So they need to be removed. After taking a quick look again at the total charge
on the main dealer invoice for the throttle pot to help suppress the urge to use a
hammer, an M5 bolt and appropriately sized socket are used instead.........

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The whole lot gets popped up into the vise and the bolt is used to GENTLY
squeeze the collar out into the socket........

Image

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With the two collars removed the throttle pot could now be bolted up into place.......

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Next item on the agenda isn't strictly 100% necessary to run the engine
but it's something I'd been reading up on and was keen to try out and
it is a Map sensor (Manifold Actual Pressure)...........

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Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:28 pm

Ok, deep breath........
The reason I say it's not 100% necessary is that the vast majority of people
running aftermarket management systems on this engine seem to do so perfectly
well with just the throttle pot for calculating the load. However there could be some
benefit to having one of these as well, maybe, I don't know, time will tell.
Here's the short version of what it does and how it might be useful.

Like almost every sensor on the engine the ecu sends 5 volts down to it and
watches what voltage comes back and then alters the fuel and spark accordingly.

What the map sensor does is measure the vacuum in the inlet manifold. When the
throttle is shut with the engine ticking over the pistons are still travelling up and down
trying to pull air into the engine and the result of this is a fairly hefty vacuum on the
engine side of the throttle butterfly. As you open the throttle air starts to rush in to fill the
cylinders and the vacuum drops the more you open the throttle. So by using a map
sensor to read the vacuum in the inlet manifold the ecu can get a pretty good picture
of how much air is actually entering the engine, which is what it wants to know
to do it's calculations. In fact Map sensors are used on a huge chunk of mass production
cars to do just this instead of throttle pot's.

So why the fu*k am I using a throttle pot then?

Well, Map sensors work grand when you have a nice standard big fat manifold with one
single butterfly. The suck, suck, suck of each cylinder is evened out as one big suck in
the nice large chamber of the inlet manifold. As a result of this when you tee off a little signal
pipe to the map sensor to read the vacuum, you get a nice clean signal as the pulsing effect
of each of the four cylinders sucking at different times is smoothed out in the open space
of the manifold.
As the S14 engine has individual throttle bodies this presents a bit of a problem, tee the vacuum line
into just one of the throttle bodies and the Map sensor has a bit of a mickey fit. Instead of getting
a nice smooth vacuum to read it's now jumping all over the place as the one cylinder it's now reading
off is sucking then nothing, then sucking, then nothing etc. etc.
I'm hoping this problem will be overcome a little at least by where I've chosen to take a tee off
vacuum pipe for the map sensor, but we'll get to that in a minute.

Before that it's probably worth explaining why the hell I'm going to the extra effort of fitting a Map
sensor in the first place. One distinct advantage a Map sensor has over a throttle pot is at very
small throttle openings. The type when your just crawling along in heavy traffic and barely pressing
the accelerator or cruising along in a high gear with the throttle barely pushed. In a car thats to be
used as a daily driver as opposed to a flat out rally/race/track car, the more accurate the ecu can sense
whats going on at these small throttle openings the more responsive it can be to adding just the
right amount of fuel and spark timing to give a smooth drive. And when it comes to measuring how much air is entering
the engine at these low throttle openings the Map sensor has the upper hand over the throttle pot.

So, the plan is to use the throttle pot as the main source of info for the ecu to work out the
incoming air but also send it the info from the Map sensor as well in the hope's that using
both sensors it'll be able to get a more accurate idea of whats going on and maybe result in
a smoother driving engine.

Or, maybe it'll all go tits up and I'll end up fu*king the Map sensor in the bin.
We'll see.

One thing I am sure of though is it's time for more pictures and less bullshit.

Mounting the Map sensor..........

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popped up into the vise and two little M5 rivet nuts bonded into the underneath.....

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and then bolt her up to the harness bracket thing that sits on the engine
bulkhead........

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after which it's time to plumb her up with that vacuum line so she can read the
engine vacuum. The location I have gone with is from a little rubber pipe that
comes up from the idle control valve and feeds air into the throttle bodies when
the butterflies are shut. This air feed is what keeps the engine breathing when the
throttles are shut and as it feeds all four cylinders I'm hoping that the vacuum in
this pipe should be smooth enough for the Map sensor to do it's thing.

In the pic below you can see the pipe connecting into the throttle bodies and
the arrow is pointing to a little "tee off" already in the pipe as standard.......

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The reason for this is the smart people at Bmw already rob a vacuum signal
off this pipe to operate the fuel pressure regulator...........

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