E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Assembly_120. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Switch on the steering column.

The wiring is completed, now I will write briefly about the switches and buttons.
First, about the switches on the steering column. There are two of them in the basic configuration. On the left, there is a switch for turn signals and headlights. On the right, there is a wiper switch. For each of them, an additional option is provided in the form of a button on the end of the switch. On the left is a button for switching the indicators of the on-board computer. On the right is a button for turning on the intensive cleaning of the windshield.
An additional option is the third switch installed below on the right - the cruise control switch. I already wrote about this in the corresponding section, so here I will write only about the switch itself.
In the presence of an airbag, all switches on the steering column have a slightly different design of their levers.

Steering column switch




Part No. 1 - windshield wiper switch with an intensive windshield cleaning system (61 31 1 372 583)
Part #2 - turn signal and headlight switch and on-board computer (61 31 1 375 186)
Part #3 - screw M5X12 (07 11 9 906 816) - 4 pcs.

Part #4 - switch for fog lights and rear fog lights (61 31 1 368 895). In the basic configuration, this button is "single" (#5), - only for rear fog lights. If there is an additional option of front fog lights, a "double" button (#4) is installed.

Part #6 - lighting switch (61 31 1 376 001). Switches before restyling and after restyling have different connectors. There were other switches for the Scandinavian countries, with the "daytime running lights" mode. An additional K9 relay was also installed there, which automatically turns off the main beam when the fog lights are turned on. I already wrote about this earlier in the section on relays.
Part No. 7 - button (61 31 1 369 277). Switch handle.
Part No. 8 - switch cover (62 11 1 370 655). In my case, this pad also has an optional original wooden pad. I will write about this option separately.

Item No. 9 - the light switch of the drawer for small things. (61 31 1 386 316).

"Top" set of switches:


Connectors for the switch of turn indicators and headlights, and on-board computer:
1 - connector for connecting to the main wiring
2 - connector for connecting to the on-board computer wiring
3 - sound signal connector
4 - turn signal relay connector
5 - ground terminal
I have a switch for the US market, so it is missing the "parking" marker light connector. Unfortunately, this option was not available in the US, although it is quite useful. In it, the switch has additional "extreme" positions after turning on the turn signal, in which only one front and one rear position light bulb is turned on, on the corresponding side of the car. At the same time, the illumination of the number plate and the illumination in the cabin do not turn on. This significantly saves the battery charge during long-term parking on the side of the road. If I find it, I will definitely replace this switch with a "European" one.

Connectors of the wiper switch with the system of intensive cleaning of the windshield:
6 - connector for connecting to the main wiring
7 - ground terminal
Compared to the basic one, this switch has two additional wires going to the TS and PS contacts of the K10 wiper relay.

Cruise control switch connectors:
8 - connector for connecting to the cruise control wiring

The switches are screwed to the steering column. Their "mass" terminals are also screwed there. We connect all connectors.


The connectors of all switches are fixed with each other, and are latched onto the connector of the ignition lock fixed on the steering column. The turn signal relay is also fixed on the steering column.


By the way, in the photo you can see the white connector of the "parking" side lights that is not used. It will be necessary to use it.
Now you can install the plastic cover of the steering column. I already wrote about him in the corresponding section.


Not all the icons on the switches are well preserved, so later I will try to somehow restore them - with engraving or stickers... we'll see.

I almost forgot - we install the decorative ring of the ignition lock in the casing.


A trifle, but the look is much better with it! ;)


Then about the buttons.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_121. ETK_61_General electrical equipment of the car. Switch

We are preparing all the buttons for installation.

Switch




Part #1 - emergency alarm switch (61 31 1 367 340). The button in the basic configuration has a backlight. When activated, it starts to glow more brightly.
Part #2 - rear window heating switch (61 31 1 376 036). Button in the basic configuration. Earlier buttons are green, later ones are yellow. There are no lights. It starts to glow when activated.

Part No. 3 - air conditioner switch (61 31 1 372 051). Optional button. The air conditioner button is blue, the recirculation button is yellow. There are no lights. It starts to glow when activated.
Detail #4 - air conditioner switch. Not used for E30. The air conditioner button is blue. There is no backlight. It starts to glow when activated.
Part No. 5 - fan switch (61 31 1 381 201). Heater fan speed mode switch. The earlier ones have three speeds, the later four.
Part No. 6 - fastening of the fan switch (64 11 8 362 900)
The icons on the button will need to be restored.

Part No. 7 - automatic fuse (61 31 1 370 724). After restyling, it has a different body shape (61 31 1 369 375). Optional button. There is no backlight at all. Turns off power to all power windows manually or automatically when overloaded.

Part No. 8 - rear power window switch (61 31 1 385 796). Optional button. There is no backlight at all. Turns off power to the rear power window buttons located on the doors.
Part No. 9 - power window switch without backlight (61 31 1 367 373) or with backlight (61 31 1 377 905) - 6 pcs. It is also used for an electric sunroof - 1 pc. Optional button. The backlight works constantly when the ignition is on.

Left with backlight, right without backlight:

In the photo on the right is the rear electric curtain button for E32/E34. I'm not sure if it was used for the E30 - the EBA doesn't say that. It might have used the regular window button (#9), but I like the electric shutter button better.
Part No. 10 - cigarette lighter socket (61 34 1 367 690)
Part No. 11 - glow spiral (61 34 8 648 111)
Part No. 12 - cigarette lighter insert (61 34 1 367 689). With backlight.
Part No. 13 - lamp 12V 1.2W (63 21 7 167 000) - 1 pc. Cigarette lighter and ashtray lighting.


Part No. 14, No. 15 - automatic transmission mode switch with electronic control. Not used in this case.

In the photo there are also optional seat heating buttons. I already wrote about this before, so here it is only about the buttons.

Earlier heated seat buttons have a different shape and a green backlight when activated. In the photo above, there are later buttons, they do not have backlight. When activated, they start to light up.
I used the E32/E34 buttons to heat the rear seats. They are similar in appearance in the photo below, but structurally different. They have backlight. When activated, they begin to glow brighter.

A little about the preparation of buttons. For the US market, the rear window heating button is backlit, by analogy with the hazard warning button. I have two buttons - early green (right) and late yellow (left).


I noticed that the late yellow buttons have another unused pin (1) and some kind of diode...






But there is no such contact in the wiring.


Without thinking long, I added the wire from the backlight!


But the "trick" failed! The backlight does not work. Then I carefully looked at the ETM diagram and realized that for the US there is a completely different pinout and a different button.


So I left it as it was.

A nuance on the automatic fuse of electric windows. Before restyling, this button was installed above the radio, near the emergency alarm button. After restyling, it was moved to the torpedo console, to all other buttons of electric windows. In my opinion, it is more logical and convenient. Accordingly, these buttons have different body frames. Before the restyling, the button has a thin flat frame (right), and after the restyling, a thick rounded frame (left), like other power window buttons.


And in conclusion, a few more words about the button backlight lamps. I needed to replace several burned out bulbs. In the buttons of the electric windows, they are simply inserted into the cartridge, and in the button of the electric blinds, they are soldered.


By the way, I disassembled all the buttons of the electric windows and cleaned their contacts - the electric windows started to work much better.

It turned out that the new lamps shine much brighter and have a white color of light. Therefore, I used the experience of my friend - I painted the lamps with a special colored varnish - "tsaponlak". It comes in different colors. I bought red, yellow and green.


So, I did it on the recommendation of my friend - dip the lamp in yellow varnish five times, drying each time. Then we dip it once in red varnish.


We get an amber color similar to the factory backlight. In the photo on the left, the lamp after five layers of yellow varnish, and the finished result after one layer of red varnish on the button on the right.


The color of the light has become amber, but they still shine noticeably brighter..... well, that's it... I'll show you after installation! ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_122. ETK_51_Body equipment. Trinket box

Well, now everything seems to be finished in the salon with electricity.
Let's return to the section
Body equipment

First, a box for small things.
Glove Box




Part #1 - ANTHRAZIT small box (51 16 1 884 243). It is standard black, but the Edition can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO.
Part #2 - loop (51 16 1 916 022)
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X16 (07 11 9 916 945) - 3 pcs. For fastening the hinge to the box.
Part No. 4 - insert plate (51 16 1 848 715) - 3 pcs. For fastening the hinge to the box.

Item No. 5 is not used.
Part No. 6 - support bracket (51 16 1 913 891)
Part No. 7 - hanger for a box (51 16 1 904 471) - 2 pcs. Flexible strap-limiter for opening the drawer.
Part No. 8 - pin (51 16 1 828 956) - 2 pcs. For fixing straps.

Part No. 9 - a set of locking mechanism (51 16 1 848 873). Basic drawer opening handle. Not used in this case.
Part No. 10 - a set of locking mechanism with code (51 16 1 853 004). Keyed drawer opening handle. Lock repair kit (51 16 9 061 387). I wrote about the repair of this lock in the section about locks.
Part No. 11 - a set of a locking mechanism with a key (51 16 1 853 002).
Part No. 12 - the upper part of the locking mechanism (51 16 1 849 472).
Part No. 13 - screw M5X12 (07 11 9 907 627) - 2 pcs. For attaching the handle to the drawer.
Part No. 14 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 0470 - 2 pcs. For attaching the handle to the box.

Part No. 15 - M6 nut with washer (07 14 7 134 319) - 3 pcs. For attaching the loop to the body.
Part No. 16 - bracket (51 16 1 913 890). Lock latch.
Part No. 17 - self-tapping screw B3.9X16MM (51 13 1 879 479) - 2 pcs. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the torpedo.
Part No. 18 - sheet nut ST6,3-1-ZN (07 12 9 925 727) - 1 pc. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the body.
Part No. 19 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07 11 9 916 966) - 1 pc. For attaching bracket No. 16 to the body.
Part #20...23 - not used.

In my case, there is an original wooden cover on the box.


I will write about it separately later.
The pad has a metal base with threaded bushings. Fastened with two M3 screws.


We fasten the handle with the lock, install the wooden overlay, fasten the hinge. And it is better not to install the straps right away - then I had to remove them again.


The box for small things in the "top" configuration is ready for installation.


But first you need to install a torpedo! ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_123. ETK_51_Body equipment. Instrument panel cladding

Finally, I got to the torpedo installation!
Dashboard trim


The parts are large, so they all did not fit on the table at once.
First, the torpedo itself:


Part No. 1 - instrument panel lining (51 45 1 941 532). Most cars are black. There were exclusive configurations in which the torpedo was covered with natural leather. There were also gray variants, but they are extremely rare. On diesel cars, the torpedo has additional noise insulation. I already wrote about its gluing earlier in the section on conditioner.
Part #2 - rubber buffer (51 45 1 917 675) - 2 pcs. Rubber drawer buffer for small items. In the photo, they are installed on the torpedo.

Part No. 3 - bracket (51 45 1 852 827) - 1 pc. A metal clip for fastening the torpedo in the center under the windshield. It is absent on some cars, most on touring cars.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X16 (07 11 9 916 966) - 1 pc. Fastening of the torpedo under the steering column.
Part No. 5 - sheet nut ST6,3-1 (07 12 9 925 742) - 1 pc. Fastening of the torpedo under the steering column.
Part No. 6 (No. 24) - M6 nut holder (51 45 1 885 649) - 4 pcs. Torpedo mounting on the sides.
Part No. 7 (No. 23) - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 904 459) - 4 pcs. Torpedo mounting on the sides.


Steering wheel cover and lining of the box for small things:


Part #8 - ANTHRAZIT lower left lining (51 45 1 917 355). Most cars are black. The Edition configuration can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO. It also differs depending on the configuration of the car - with a headlight tilt regulator and a place for the on-board computer gong. It is also significantly different for cars with an airbag. It has additional noise insulation for diesel cars. In my version - with a headlight tilt regulator and a place for an on-board computer gong, and with additional "diesel" noise insulation.
Part No. 9 - lower right lining (51 45 1 906 932). Plastic shield covering the heater body.
Part No. 10 (No. 16) - sheet nut B3.9 (51 13 1 914 097) - 1 pc. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X16 (07 11 9 906 745) - 1 pc. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 12 - locking clip (51 45 1 914 869) - 3 pcs. Fastening the casing (#1) to the torpedo. In ETK, for some reason, three different numbers, different clips are indicated - but this number is correct. One clip is not indicated at all - the one that fixes the cover to the steering column (51 71 1 916 197) - it can be seen in the photo.
Part No. 13 - bracket (51 45 1 906 532), fastening of the casing below to the steering column.

Part No. 14 - the cover of the box for small items (51 16 1 911 985). Plastic shield covering the Motronic ECU.
Part No. 15 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X13 (07 14 7 202 502) - 2 pcs. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 16 (No. 10) - leaf nut B3.9 (51 13 1 914 097) - 1 pc. Fastening the shield to the torpedo.
Part No. 17 - locking clip (51 71 1 916 197) - 2 pcs. Attachment of shields.

Part No. 18 - dashboard lining overlay (62 11 1 370 657). Plastic overlay.
Part #19...21 - not used.
Part No. 22 - nut (62 14 8 480 019) - 2 pcs. Aluminum nut for fastening the lining.
Detail No. 25 - a ceiling light for the box for small things.
Part #26...35 - only for the cover with an airbag. In this case, they are not used.
Part #36 - I'm not sure, but maybe it's an analogue of bracket #3.

So, we start the installation with a torpedo. We install bracket No. 3 in the center of the torpedo.


It should fit into a special bracket under the windshield.


Install lock nuts No. 6 on the sides in the brackets on the body.


The torpedo is attached to them with its side brackets.


A bracket for attaching a torpedo under the steering column with a self-tapping screw. Above the steering column, glue an "anti-squeak" strip to the torpedo.


Attaches to this bracket on the body.


There is another bracket on the bottom center of the torpedo, but I will write about it later - the torpedo console is attached to it.


So, all the air ducts and nozzles are already installed in the torpedo, so we push it into its place so as to snap the clip under the windshield. I had to remove the linings of the front roof racks, because they were in the way. Zarazom glued strips of "anti-squeak" to them at the bottom. It is more convenient to do it with an assistant, but I always put it myself... a little inconvenient, but I put it.
Importantly! Before installing the torpedo, be sure to install the plastic lining of the steering column. Otherwise, it will not be installed later. I know this from my first experience installing a torpedo - I had to remove it again!


On the left, together with the torpedo, the ABS ECU mounting bracket is screwed (I wrote about this earlier). We fix the torpedo wiring with a clamp on the torpedo bracket.


Under the steering column, together with the torpedo, the second ABS ECU mounting bracket is screwed (I wrote about this earlier). The ABS relay is installed and connected to it.


We install it on the brackets and connect the ABS ECU. Compactly lay all the wiring.


The airbag ECU is installed above the ABS ECU. But, judging by everything, you need to install some of your own brackets for it. I don't have them yet, so I'll install it later... I won't plug it in anyway.


We fix the harnesses above the instrument panel with clamps, remove all the connectors that go to the instrument panel.


Next, we fix with clamps all the wiring harnesses, except for the wiring of the radio and button connectors, under the central air duct.


On the right, together with the torpedo, the bracket of the Motronic ECU is screwed.


The second bracket of the Motronic ECU is screwed above the box for small items. But first you need to screw the cruise control ECU bracket to it, and install the ECU unit itself.


Then put the whole assembly under the torpedo and screw it to the bracket on the body and the torpedo. We install the Motronic ECU, lay the wiring and connect all the connectors.


We connect the lamp shade in the shield, the backlight button, install the plastic shields, fasten them to the torpedo with self-tapping screws and to each other with clips.


We install the straps of the box for small things.


We lay the wiring through a special hole to the flashlight connector so that it does not get pinched when closing the box.
I still have the wiring to the anti-radar ;)


We hang the box on a strap. We screw the hinge of the box to the pins on the body and adjust it so that the lock closes normally. We install a flashlight (82 11 9 413 237).

Chargeable hand lamp



A drawer for small things is installed.


We install the central frame with heater controls, connect the radio, on-board computer and buttons.


Everything is installed on the right. Even anti-radar!


We put the plastic bracket on the steering wheel cover. The photo shows additional "diesel" sound insulation.


We snap the bracket onto the steering column tube, insert the end of the casing between the metal plates on the motor shield. We install the gong of the on-board computer in the casing, connect the headlight regulator and its backlight. Fasten the casing with three clips to the torpedo and one clip to the steering column.
We install and connect the light switch on the cover under the instrument panel, which we fasten with two nuts.


The torpedo is installed. Now I'm installing her console.

[The_Glory]

Collection_124. ETK_51_Body equipment. Department for small things

We install the torpedo console.
Compartment for small items




Detail #1 - department for small things (51 16 1 941 830). Most cars are black. There were exclusive configurations in which the console was covered with natural leather. The Edition configuration can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO. It also differs depending on the configuration of the machine - with cutouts for the front and/or rear power window buttons. The location of these buttons for before restyling and after restyling is also different. It has additional noise insulation for diesel cars. In my version - with cutouts for front and rear electric windows, and with additional "diesel" noise insulation.
I had an ammeter built into my console, but after installing the air conditioner, there was no room for it behind the console, and it rested against the air conditioner. Therefore, I had to change the console. It was lucky to find it in perfect condition, but for restyling.


I had to cut holes in it for all the buttons. It is good that there are factory stampings on the inner part that need to be cut.


On the left is the console after restyling - it has places for all six buttons of the power windows, including the automatic fuse button. On the right is the console before the restyling - it has places for only five buttons for power windows, but without the button for the automatic fuse. It is installed above the radio on the right.


It is noticeable that in the photo on the left, the buttons are more shifted back.


But that's not all. If you have a phone with a "hands-free" system, according to the EBA factory instructions, the microphone is installed in the place of the air conditioner button. But if there is also an air conditioner, there is a "plan B" - the microphone crashes into the console according to the template from the instructions. So, let's cut further!






All the holes are cut out, the microphone is installed, "anti-scrape" strips are pasted over the places of docking with the torpedo and the central console.




Since I have additional original "diesel" sound insulation installed on the torpedo and on the under-wheel casing, we are also turning the console into a "diesel" one! ;)




Part No. 2 (No. 3+No. 4) - front ashtray ANTHRAZIT (51 16 1 904 808). There were exclusive configurations in which the ashtray was covered with black, gray or brown natural leather.
Part No. 3 - front ashtray (51 16 1 911 696). It consists of several parts - a box, a cover, metal inserts and light guides for illumination.

In assembly There are traces of corrosion left on the metal insert, I'll probably cover them with "anti-squeak" or some kind of fabric - I won't allow anyone to smoke in the car anyway! Or I'll buy a "pocket" (#14).

Part #4 - front ashtray frame (51 16 1 906 887).
Part No. 5 - self-tapping screw B3.9X16MM (51 13 1 879 479) - 2 pcs. For fixing the frame.
Part No. 6 - M6 plastic nut (16 13 1 176 747) - 1 pc. For attaching the console to the body.
Part No. 7 - bracket (51 16 1 904 785). For attaching the console to the body.
Part No. 8 (No. 11) - self-tapping screw ST4.2X13 (07 11 9 907 939) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bracket to the console.

Part No. 9 - locking clip (51 16 1 932 255) - 2 pcs. For attaching the console to the heater body on the sides.
Part No. 10 - bracket (51 16 1 916 508). For attaching the console to the torpedo.
Part No. 11 (No. - self-tapping screw ST4.2X13 (07 11 9 907 939) - 1 pc. For attaching the bracket to the console.
Part No. 12 - sheet nut ST4,8-1 (07 12 9 925 735) - 1 pc. For attaching the console to the torpedo.
Part No. 13 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X16 (07 11 9 901 299) - 1 pc. For attaching the console to the torpedo.

Item No. 14 - compartment for small items (72 60 1 942 786). It is installed instead of an ashtray. A kind of "package for non-chicken lovers" ;) Still available to order. Maybe later I will order it for my collection Photo from the Internet:


So, we screw the brackets.




We install a frame with a cigarette lighter and an ashtray.


We connect the microphone, cigarette lighter and ashtray lighting, install the console under the torpedo. We connect and install all the buttons of the electric windows. We fix the console with a plastic nut to the pin on the body.


In the photo, you can see the connector for the reverse lights, and the added connector for lighting the gear shift knob - there will be a separate entry about this.
We screw the console to the lower bracket of the torpedo.


We fix the console to the air conditioner body with clips on the sides. On the right, this clip simultaneously fixes the plastic shield of the torpedo.


The console is installed.


According to the year of manufacture of the car, the button for the automatic fuse of the electric windows should be installed above the radio on the right. But, firstly, I no longer have room for it there, and secondly, I could not find a console in good condition for restyling. Therefore, I have this button installed, as on restyling - in the console, together with other buttons of the window regulators. It is even more convenient, more logical, and more beautiful, in my opinion.
I wrote a long time ago about noise isolation of the gearbox (51 48 1 913 064) in the corresponding section.


Finally, it can be installed in place.


Well, I also installed the frame with the gearbox lever cover, but I will write about it later.


Next, I install the central console.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_125. ETK_51_Body equipment. Center console

We install the central console.
Center console




Part #1 - console for ANTHRAZIT cassettes (51 16 1 913 843). Most cars are black. There were exclusive configurations in which the console was covered with natural leather. The Edition configuration can be gray SILBER or blue INDIGO. It also differs depending on the configuration of the car - with a "pocket" for small items, or with a cut-out for a cassette holder, and with cut-outs for seat heating buttons, electric blinds, and the automatic transmission mode regulator. In my version - with a cut-out for the cassette deck and with cut-outs for seat heating buttons and electric blinds.
Part #2 - not used.
Part No. 3 - spacer (51 16 1 943 121) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - plastic nut M6 (16 13 1 176 747) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rear ashtray (51 16 1 904 809). It consists of a box and a lid. In my case, it is not used for its intended purpose, as I will never allow anyone to smoke in my car! That's why I installed two buttons for heating the rear seats in the ashtray cover. ;)
Part No. 6 - backlight lamp cartridge (64 11 1 366 170) - 1 pc.

Installation is simple. We install and connect seat heating buttons and electric blinds, ashtray lighting lamp. We insert the hooks of the central console into the holes on the torpedo console, put the console on the handbrake lever, press it to the carpet and fix it with a plastic nut through the spacer to the pin on the body. Insert the rear ashtray. In my case, we are still installing and connecting the buttons for heating the rear seats.


Now you can also install the handbrake lever cover, which I already wrote about a long time ago. Simply snaps into the console with staples.


I have several different original cassette decks, but I have a phone installed in their place. And I will write about cassette players later, a separate entry. We connect and install the phone.


All parts of the torpedo are installed and connected. In addition to the instrument panel.


Now I have more buttons on my E30 than on a piano!

Next, I install the instrument panel and front seats and go to the next level - the engine! ;) Or maybe BBS...

[The_Glory]

Collection_126. ETK_62_Control devices. Control devices

So, the section
Instruments

Unit
Instruments


I only removed the speedometer from the dash board as I needed to replace the odometer gears. There was no need to remove other devices.


Part #1 - speedometer (62 12 1 381 706). Available with a scale in km/h or miles/h (for the USA). The scale is marked up to 220 km/h, or up to 240 km/h.
Part No. 2 (No. 3) is a tachometer (62 13 1 374 877). Different models of engines have a different "red zone" scale. For 4-cylinder models, it was available as an additional option and was installed instead of the clock. For "older" models, the clock in the instrument panel was not available.
Detail #4 - tachometer without an econometer. Not used in this case.
Part No. 5 - fuel consumption indicator (62 13 1 376 717). The econometer was available only together with the tachometer. Sometimes there is a clock with an econometer scale.
Part #6 - fuel flow meter (62 13 1 374 824) The basic device has a scale in liters - 55 liters before restyling, or 60 liters after restyling. Not used in this case.
Part No. 7 fuel flow meter for cars with an additional tank (62 13 1 381 323). Earlier I wrote about the additional tank. I decided not to install the tank itself yet, but the wiring and device for it are installed. The device has two scales in "volume fractions" - the main tank and an additional one.
Part #8 - remote thermometer (62 13 1 374 816). Engine temperature indicator.

All devices can be of two manufacturers - VDO or Motometer. In my case it is Motometer.

For the past several months I have been driving with a broken odometer. Its gears often fail due to old age. So, we unscrew four self-tapping screws and remove the speedometer from the board.
Motometer




And here is the reason - a small drive gear without teeth.


The next brown gear is also missing teeth.


To access the gears, remove the upper transparent cover.
When trying to remove the gear, it cracked! Although, they are removed very easily.


The next green gear looked like it had completely "melted"... And it also broke into pieces.


Lower black gear targets.


The small drive gear had to be simply scraped off the axle piece by piece.




So, you need to replace the gears. The number of teeth is indicated on them.
Brown 44/17, green 38/23.


Black 31/11 and 33/26.


Small drive gear 12.



The gears simply fit freely on the axle. A small drive gear is put on the axle tightly so that it does not scroll.
After replacing the gears, I had the idea to "reset" the mileage... say - criminal!
The dashboard is definitely not from this car, and the mileage on it is still not true.


241359 km - in fact, it is much larger, so there is "nothing to lose" here! ;)
At first I tried turning the odometer back by hand....but at 150,000 miles it would take several days! Then I tried turning mechanically with an electric dremel - it was much faster, but the teeth on the gear began to wear out very quickly and they would be enough for a maximum of several thousand kilometers I had to change one more black gear...


But then, thanks to the advice of a teammate, I understood how to do it easier and faster!
Unscrew the second transparent cover and coil.


We bend the bracket of the coil so that the axis of the white gears of the odometer does not rest against it.


On the other hand, the axis is flared. I had to turn it a little with a dremel so that it came out of the hole.


We take out the axle and deflect it so that the white gears come out of engagement with the odometer.


Now freely set all "zeros" on the odometer and align all the white gears.


We insert the axis in its place, screw the coil and transparent covers. It is not necessary to roll it - it rests against the coil bracket and will not be able to fall out of the hole by itself.
Reset the lower counter by pressing the lever. Now the odometer works again and it has "zero" mileage! ;)


New life - a new countdown! ;)


Isn't that legal?...

[The_Glory]

Collection_127. ETK_62_Control devices. Instrument cluster details

There are two manufacturers of instrument panels - VDO and Motometer. In both cases, there are two types of panels - before 86 and after 86. They differ mainly in the SI board, the "oilservice/inspection" scale and the encoder.
By 86, the scale has 5 green, 1 yellow and 3 red LEDs. A mechanical encoder for the tachometer is installed.
After '86 the gauge has 5 green LEDs, 1 yellow and 1 red, also added the "annual service" symbol in the form of a clock between the "oilservice inspection" inscriptions. An electronic encoder for the tachometer is installed.

Unit
Instrument combination details




Part #1 - instrument panel (62 11 1 372 221). In the version for "younger" models with a clock, the glass and case have an additional hole for the button to adjust the hands of the clock. There is no such hole in panels with a tachometer.
Part #2 - overlay (62 11 1 368 8720. Decorative plastic frame.
Part No. 3 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X16 (07 11 9 902 423) - 2 pcs. For fastening the instrument panel.

Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X9.5 (07 11 9 902 399) - 2 pcs. and self-tapping screw B2.9X23 (62 11 1 372 267) - 2 pcs. For fixing the frame. Very important! Do not confuse long self-tapping screws with short ones! The long ones are twisted at the bottom along the edges, and the short ones are at the bottom in the middle! If you twist longer self-tapping screws in the middle, they will damage the tracks on the SI board. You can see it in the photo below - someone before me has already mixed them up!

Part No. 5 - instrument panel board (62 11 1 372 255)
Part No. 6 - SI board ( 62 11 1 394 267). There are cases without an "oilservice/inspection" scale, but I have never met such.
Part #7 - SI board (62 11 1 372 258)


Detail #8, 9 - not used.
Part #10 - mechanical encoder (62 11 1 377 668). Mechanical encoder for tachometer. It differs for 4- and 6-cylinder engines. It is installed on the back side of the instrument panel behind the tachometer.



Item #11 - Electronic encoder for the tachometer. It differs for 4- and 6-cylinder engines. It also has differences in different E30 models. It is installed on the front side of the instrument panel under the tachometer.
Detail #12, #13 - light filters for control lamps. They differ depending on the model or configuration of the machine.
Part No. 14 - a light filter for control lamps of turn signals and main beam (62 11 1 372 253).
Part No. 15 - light guide of control lamps of turn signals and main beam (62 11 1 372 247). Plastic bracket for lamps.

Part No. 16 - light filter of the CHECK control lamp (62 11 1 377 674).
Part No. 17 - light guide of the CHECK control lamp (62 11 1 372 266). Plastic bracket for the lamp.
Part No. 18 is a pull rod for zeroing the lower odometer.
Part #19 - not used.
Part No. 20 - button (62 12 1 363 213). To reset the lower odometer.
Detail #21 - a button for adjusting the hands of the clock. Not used in this case.
Part No. 22 - lamp holder (62 11 1 376 716) - 3 pcs. For backlight lamps and battery charging indicator lamp.
Part No. 23 - lamp 12V 3W (07 11 9 905 358) - 3 pcs. Backlight and battery charging control lamp. It is important not to install more powerful lamps, otherwise the amber light filter caps may melt. By the way, they are not listed in ETK.
Part No. 24 - lamp 12V 1.2W (62 11 1 368 299) - 11 pcs. Lamps of control lamps.

Part No. 25 - self-tapping screw ST3.5X16 (07 11 9 907 783) - 9 pcs. For fastening the body of the instrument panel.
Part No. 26 - self-tapping screw ST2.9X13 (07 11 9 906 706) - 8 pcs. For fastening the speedometer and tachometer to the body of the instrument panel.
Part No. 27 - shield (62 11 1 377 373). Instrument panel housing.
Part #28, #29 - not used.
Part No. 30 - connector housing (62 11 1 372 218). Additional green connector.

So my dashboard looked like this.


It is definitely not from this car, and judging by everything - assembled from several instrument panels. There is a hole in the case for adjusting the hands of the clock, but there is no hole on the glass, as the tachometer is installed. VDO case, but all Motometer devices and boards. The body is light gray. I'm not sure if there were such options, although there are similar color dashboards in photos on the Internet. Maybe the case was simply painted. But the main thing is that all the devices work and I like the appearance with this color!
But something had to be fixed somewhere. Polished the glass and caps of the light filters of the backlight.


Restored the left housing mount using a "repair kit" using 3D printing.


Now you can assemble the instrument panel.
We install the light guides of the backlight, which are not specified in the ETK, light filters and light guides of the control lamps, the SI-board, the thrust for zeroing the lower odometer. In my case, I still need to glue the hole for the button to adjust the hands of the clock so that it does not glow


We insert the light filters of the control lamps.


I added a few more lamps - so I added to the light filter and the corresponding icons for them. I just cut it from another filter and pasted it.
Now I have a CHECK ENGINE light like on US cars


And the reverse R lamp, although it turned out a little worse due to the overlay of yellow on green...


Also installed the optional trailer turn signal light, but with no hitch and no trailer, it won't come on.

Next, we screw the speedometer to the board, install the light filter caps on the backlight lamps, and install all the lamps.


On the other hand, we install the mechanical encoder of the tachometer - so that the arrow coincides with the arrow on the housing.




The encoder number is visible through a special hole under the tachometer scale. 10 - encoder for a 6-cylinder engine.


The hole in the case was sealed with paper, I also sealed it with a sticker.
We install an additional green connector for options that use the speed signal from the speedometer. It can be cruise control, radio, telephone and automatic transmission with electronic control. Also, this connector is used by the option for the USA - control of the lambda probe (O2 sensor). The connector is simply inserted into the holes in the case.


The instrument panel has two main connectors - white and blue.
The yellow connector is on all instrument panels, but is used only if there is a digital clock with a thermometer or an on-board computer. On "younger" models, a regular clock can be connected to the yellow connector, which is an option when replacing the clock in the instrument panel with a tachometer. Two clamps are provided on the case for fixing the wiring to the yellow connector.
An additional green connector, if necessary, can be installed on any instrument panel.


So, the instrument panel is assembled and ready for installation.


We connect all connectors, insert additional lamps.


We insert the instrument panel into the torpedo and screw its brackets.


We install a decorative frame and screw it. I remind you once again - this is where it is important not to confuse long and short self-tapping screws! The outermost instrument panels on the sides are long, the middle ones above the steering column are short! NOT THE OTHERWISE!!!


We screw the frame from above to the torpedo with two short black self-tapping screws, which are not specified in ETK.


The instrument panel is connected and installed.


We check - everything works.


After connecting, yellow and three red diodes are lit, so I immediately reset the "oilservice/inspection" scale - now 5 green diodes are lit, as it should be.
I have already written in detail about how this scale works and is reset, and there is enough information on the Internet, so I will not repeat myself.
Next, about the installation of the on-board control system panel.

[The_Glory]

Collection_128. ETK_62_Control devices. Additional information devices



Additional information instruments




Item #1 is a digital clock. It comes in two versions - with an amber display and black numbers, or with a black display and amber numbers. Until 1985, it was installed as a basic configuration on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or as an option on other cars.

Part #2 - clock (62 13 1 376 903). After 1985, it was installed as a basic configuration on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or as an option on other cars. My friends gave it to me in this "table" version! ;)


Part #3 - screw M3X10 ( 07 11 9 907 6050 - 4 pcs. For fastening the watch frame.
Part No. 4 - clock face cover (62 13 1 376 904)
Part No. 5 - clock mounting frame (62 13 1 380 009). Suitable for all types of watches.
Part No. 6 - BSK (Activ Check Control) block. It comes in different versions, with inscriptions in different languages, and with different additional lamps depending on the configuration of the machine, respectively with different ETK numbers. In my version, it is a top-of-the-line variant for the Japanese market with all the additional lights and English lettering. In the photo above. The lower version for diesel E28.

Part #7 is a simplified version for cars with 4-cylinder engines, only with additional lamps (63 31 1 376 895).
Part No. 8 - lamp 1.2W (62 11 1 368 299) - 2 pcs. Lamps for the illumination of the clock and the BSK unit. If there are additional lamps, their number increases accordingly.
Part No. 9 - locking spring (62 14 1 369 638) - 2 pcs. For fastening the BSK block.
Part No. 10 - bracket (62 14 1 373 174) - 1 pc. For fastening the BSK block.


I have an on-board computer installed instead of a clock, so parts #1, 2, 4, 5 are not used.
I have already written about the on-board control system (Activ Check Control), its functions and wiring, so now I will write only about the installation of the lamp unit itself.
It was installed on cars with 6-cylinder engines, or in a simplified version on some models with 4-cylinder engines, if they had the appropriate options.
To fix the block in the ceiling panel, you need to install parts No. 9 and No. 10 in its plastic bracket.




After installing the ceiling panel, connect the block to the wiring and firmly insert it into the panel.


So far I've installed the unit with only one extra bulb for the airbag, but later when all the extras are working, I'll install the top-of-the-line version with all four extra bulbs.

The last subsection remains in this section:
Digital clock with outdoor air temperature indicator


I had it installed earlier, but I replaced it with an on-board computer - I already wrote about it. It is essentially the same watch, only with the function of reminding every hour and measuring the temperature. The sensor and gong are similar to those in the on-board computer.
So, that concludes the instrument panel section.

Maybe one day I will also install additional Zender or Hartge devices, but I'm not sure about that... ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_129. ETK_65_Radio receiver equipment

I almost forgot to write about one thing - a unit for cassettes.

This is the last subsection from the section Audio, navigation, information. systems

Radio accessories






Part No. 1 - block for cassettes (65 14 9 056 554). This is a special console for the handbrake lever with a cutout for installing a C-box cartridge into it.
Part #2 - insert block for the cassette (65 11 1 375 261). A block for one cassette, from which you can dial blocks for different numbers of cassettes.
Item No. 3 is not used.
Detail #4 - napkin for cleaning the antenna (65 12 9 056 514). No longer available to order. Maybe I'll find somewhere later...
Part No. 5 - cartridge for 5 CDs (65 12 9 061 583). For a CD-player. In my case it is not used.

I bought all the blocks for cassettes randomly and collected a whole collection of all their types. But they were all in pretty bad shape. Some even with cassettes.


I completely disassembled them, washed them, cleaned them.


The main problem is rusty springs and broken latches.






Of all of them, I made only two in fully working condition.




Blocks are connected in three pieces and inserted into a plastic frame.


Together with the frame, the blocks snap into the hole in the handbrake lever console.
At that time, such units for C-box cassettes were installed on almost all makes and models of cars. Each model had its own special frame for a different number of blocks for cassettes. For the E30, there were three types of six-block cassettes.
The earliest version is with white buttons.




A similar unit for cassettes, but with cassette filling indicators. Each block has a "window". An empty block is a white label. When installing the cassette, the label turns red. You need to find two more unbroken blocks somewhere ;)




Probably after 1985, or maybe after restyling, they started to install cassette boxes with black buttons and cassette filling indicators.




Similar units for cassettes were also installed on the E32, E34, E36, but there they still had a backlight for filling indicators and a frame with a cover. I'm not sure if such cassette units were installed on the E30, although the option for backlighting was provided on the later version. But, if desired, it can be done by adding a backlight lamp.

So, I've tried all three types of cassette units, but I won't be installing them since I already have my phone installed there.
But for the US market there was another version of the cassette block for such a case - in the door pocket. But there is a slightly different construction of blocks - vertical.


I saw such a unit for cassettes on sale only once, I did not have time to buy. I will try to do it myself. So far, I bought "donor" blocks for cassettes for the experiment.

Early version. You need to find two more blocks.




A later version.




I haven't decided which option I will experiment with, but the main thing is that both work well, even without cleaning and washing.




I will write about the result later.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_130. ETK_03_Front armrest

In continuation of the previous entry, I will write about the front armrest, which I will not install either.

This is the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories

Front armrest


Part No. 1 - front armrest (82 11 9 413 202). This is quite a convenient and useful option, but, in my opinion, its implementation in the E30 is, to put it mildly, unimpressive. The manufacturer of the front armrests for the E30 was HUSCO. In this perspective, the armrest looks good (all photos of the original armrest are from the Internet):


But its fastening is simply terrible! It looks like some kind of "carpentry"...


Functionality is also not impressive at all. The armrest has retractable cup holders, but judging by the reviews of the owners, they are very unreliable and fragile. When installing the armrest, the possibility to normally use the shelf on the console or cassette units is excluded. I'm not talking about the phone at all.


Terrible through bolting to the console. How to use cassette units here?


Despite this, such an armrest is a very rare item and has an inadequate price, in my opinion! Apparently, this is the case when at one time no one needed it, due to its controversial functionality, so it was almost never ordered. But now, it's a rarity at a huge price! )
In my opinion, the armrest from the E34 is a much better option in terms of design, functionality, and fastening. It is installed instead of a cassette unit.


But I have a phone there. Therefore, I bought and installed an aftermarket armrest for the E30 from KAMEI.
Cleaned, renewed the paint.


Fixing the frame


Fastening the pillow


KAMEI


We collect




But we install it.


The appearance of the KAMEI armrest is similar to the appearance of the original HUSCO armrest


And in terms of functionality, it is much better. The armrest is foldable, and does not interfere with using a shelf, or cassette units, or a telephone.


It has an additional drawer for small items. It also has adjustment of the angle of inclination of the pillow and longitudinal adjustment of its position.


Mounting does not require drilling of the console. The frame of the armrest is fixed with bolts, together with the front seats. Fastening is rigid and reliable. In addition, the frame also serves as "protection" for the rear ashtray, which is often broken by rear passengers with their feet, if there are three of them


The fastening does not interfere with the longitudinal adjustment of the seats.


So, in my opinion, the aftermarket KAMEI armrest is much better than the original HUSCO in all respects. The only thing is that it does not have cup holders. But it's even better for me - I never let anyone eat or drink in my car!


Now I will write about another convenient little thing - a net for things. In ETK for E30 it is not there for some reason, but it is in the list of original options for E30 - S414 Mesh on the side of the front passenger.
There are no numbers on it, modern such meshes look different, so I cannot claim that this is an original mesh specifically for the E30, but it was removed from the E30 Touring.


Fastening with self-tapping screws through plastic clips.


It is installed on the checkpoint tunnel from the passenger side. The size fits perfectly.




Next time I will write about the front seats.

[The_Glory]

Collection_131. ETK_52_Seats. BMW sports seat.

Seats

In the cabin, everything is ready for installing the front seats.
A little general information about them.
Three front seat options were available for the E30: standard seats, BMW sports seats (Sportsitze), and RECARO sports seats.
In the M3 EVO, RECARO SR3 sports seats were installed, which had integrated head restraints, additional lateral support and the possibility of installing 4-point seat belts.
I will write about the seat in more detail, in the form of an FAQ:
In 2-door and 4-door sedans and touring cars, the front seats differ structurally only in the handles and the mechanism for folding the backrest forward, but, in principle, they are interchangeable. The handles and mechanism for folding the backrest forward can be installed on any seat.
The guides of the standard and sports seats are the same, but the RECARO sports seats have a different longitudinal adjustment lever design. There are two types of guides - before 85 and after 85.
I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that the guides on convertibles are higher than on sedans.
Rear and front headrests are the same (except front RECARO).
Front seat heating is different for standard and sports seats, and for fabric or leather upholstery.
The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars.

Depending on the year of production, the engine, the type of trim and the configuration of the car, the seats have many ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to indicate them.

So, now about my specific seats. At first, completely different seats were installed - the right one is standard, and the left one is from E36. Therefore, almost immediately, I completely replaced them with BMW sports seats (Sportsitze) from a 1992 car (probably from a touring car). I sewed them in black and installed heating. The seats are in very good condition, so there was no point in taking them apart to take pictures and put them back together!
So, here I will not describe everything in detail - just general photos - BMW sports seat (Sportsitze).

BMW sports seat




Unlocking the BMW sports seat

As I said above, the handles and forward recline mechanism from the 2-door sedan seats can be installed on the 4-door sedan seats. If there is such a need.
The details of fastening the front head restraints are similar to the rear ones. The headrests are simply inserted into the holes. Can be adjusted in height and inclination. I already wrote about them in the section on the back seat.

BMW sports seat headrest



Rear and front head restraints are the same for standard and sport seats (except front RECARO).

The rear panel of the BMW sports seat



The back panel of the backrest is attached from above with staples, and from below with two self-tapping screws.

BMW sports seat cover


Cladding by the meter




As I said above, depending on the year of manufacture, engine, and configuration of the car, the seats have many upholstery options with different ETK numbers. Therefore, it makes no sense to indicate them.
Fabric, faux leather, and genuine leather upholstery were available. The main colors are black, blue, green, brown, beige, gray, red. Before restyling, and after restyling, these colors had different shades and textures. The upholstery fabric texture sets were different for the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars. There were also special skins for exclusive and individual configurations - M-Technic, Edition and others. On all E30s, the skin has longitudinal seams, except for convertibles, where the seams are transverse.
According to the VIN code, my car had PINIENGRUEN green cloth upholstery (0149) - for cars with 4-cylinder engines (316). But I bought a car with a different interior. The door panels were 0211 ANTHRAZIT, and the seats were re-stitched in a similar fabric. After replacing all the seats, I looked around for the 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric that was available from 85 for the 6 cylinder engine - just what I needed for my current kit! I still found it and bought it, thanks to a friend.


But in fact, the color was not black, but brown... alas...


At that time, I could not find a black "crow's foot", so I decided to sew the seats simply in black, with transverse seams, like on convertibles. It also turned out very well. But the idea of ​​making the entire interior in black "houndstooth" doesn't leave me... Yes, such a fabric is now on sale... I already have a back rest and four headrests in the original 0211 ANTHRAZIT fabric. Someday, maybe, I will have the whole salon "crow's foot" 0211 ANTHRAZIT. Or blue "crow's foot" 0212 PACIFIC - door trims are also already available ;)

The photo shows M TECHNIC decorative overlays (52 10 1 927 000) on the back.

For the E30, front seats were only available for the M3. But I also installed them - the interior looks much better with them! ;)We pierce the skin with them, and bend their spokes inside. One nuance - although I ordered them new, the color of the stickers on the driver's seat quickly began to fade... Therefore, I "laminated" them with a transparent adhesive film.

So, although the seats are in good condition, I still did some minimal "maintenance" of them - I cleaned and lubricated all the adjustment mechanisms, renewed the paint on the guides a little, and cleaned the trim.

BMW sports seat guides


There are two types of guides - before 85 and after 85. Structurally, they differ significantly, but they are interchangeable when attached to the body. Guides up to 85 are attached to the body with three nuts and one bolt at the back near the gearbox tunnel. Guide rails after 85 are attached to the body with two nuts at the front and two bolts at the back. In ETK, simple washers are used in one case, spring washers in another, or they are not used at all - the logic is not clear. Therefore, I prepared both simple washers and spring washers, but in fact I used only spring washers. I have a body of 84, and the guides of 92 - therefore fastening with three nuts and one bolt.


Plastic decorative caps for nuts also come in two types. Both types are no longer available to order. Earlier (before 85) are high, and later (after 85) are low. High caps are not suitable for guides after 85 - they interfere with the longitudinal adjustment of the seat. I had to order low caps for 3D printing.


I cleaned the guides, repainted a little and lubricated all the mechanisms with Teflon grease.




The photo shows the heating connector, which is fixed in a special plastic bracket on the spring frame of the seat. The connector of the driver's seat belt lock is also fixed in the same bracket.

BMW sport seat covers


BMW sports seat accessories


Seat details


All mechanisms work well, so I did not disassemble them - I just cleaned and lubricated them.










1992 year




After that, for "prevention" I cleaned the cladding with a "tornado"


All that remains is to fasten the seat belt locks.


The early locks fit the late guides without a problem. The bolt was closed with a decorative cap.


The seats are now completely ready for installation.
We connect the seat heating connector and the driver's lock, if there is one. It is better to immediately raise the seat to the maximum height on the guides. We install the seat on the body studs and fasten.


Fasten the seat belt, cover the bolt with a decorative cap.


We also close the fastening nuts with caps.


We adjust the position of the seats - installed.






Now it remains only to fasten the steering wheel!
By the way, next time there will be the last entry on the assembly of the interior - about a rare option for the E30 - S435 Made of valuable wood species

[The_Glory]

Collection_132. ETK_03_Upgrades, accessories. Made from valuable wood species.

An option was available for the E30, which is more common on the more "luxurious" 5 and 7 series - S435 Made of valuable wood. On the E30, this option is not so common. Mainly on machines from ALPINA. Although, sometimes "aftermarket" retrofit kits were also installed there. But now we are talking about the original retrofit kit. This is really real wood, not vinyl decals! ;)

This is the ETK section Retrofitting, accessories

Fine wood finish




Item No. 1 - a set of torpedo linings
Detail No. 2 - an overlay on the torpedo console
Detail No. 3 - a set of overlays on the front door panels
Detail No. 4 - a set of overlays for the instrument panel
Detail No. 5 - overlay on the central panel
Detail No. 6 - cover on the box for small things

So, the complete set consists of seven overlays. In the previous entries about the installation of the torpedo, I have already mentioned some of them. At the moment, I have only two of them - an overlay on the box for small things, and an overlay on the light switch. The overlays are no longer available to order, they are very rare, so it is quite difficult to assemble the whole set. It's good that they were available in only one color - it simplifies the search at least a little. At a minimum, I still want to install an overlay under the instrument panel, but not the front door panels. I don't really like the overlay on the center panel. And the overlay on the torpedo console, in general, looks like a cheap Chinese vinyl sticker. Especially, if there are six buttons for power windows. Therefore, I will not install it. If I still can't find these pads, I'll try to make them to order.

In addition to this kit, a wooden gear lever handle was available.

Gear shift knob retrofitting, wood




Part No. 1 - retrofitting with a gearbox handle, walnut root tree (82 11 9 413 231). Wooden handle without top insert.

After the restyling, another wooden handle of the gearbox lever was available - 25 11 1 434 497. With an upper insert. This is the handle installed in my car.


Well, and for the completeness of the "wooden picture" - wooden "aftermarket" MOMO steering wheel.
So, my entire tree set.


All elements need restoration, but I will deal with this when the whole set is assembled. And for now, "we have what we have." (with)
I just renewed the paint on the steering wheel.








By the way, I have had a rare BBS steering wheel with a "carbon" insert lying around for a long time. I plan to convert the insert into a "tree". In the original, there is something similar to "aquaprint", so I will try to do it that way. The original sound signal button is missing, so I will try to make it myself - I have already made the blanks.


For now, I'll install what I have.
Helm.


There is still nothing to install the gearbox lever handle on. But there are still plans to "upgrade" it with lighting.

Overlay on the light switch.


Overlay on the box for small things.


General appearance.








A complete restored kit will look much better. ;)

P.S.
As it turned out, for diesel cars, plastic linings in the box for small things also have additional original sound insulation. So for the full effect, I removed them and added similar noise insulation there.






P.P.S.
If someone looked carefully at the photo, they noticed that the left front speaker trim and the headlight adjustment knob are missing. That's because I haven't installed the magnetic alarm lock on the driver's door yet. I will install it after painting along with other parts. This completes the interior assembly.


And then - a new season of this long series! Preparation and assembly of the motor.
I pulled it out to the middle of the garage so that it would be convenient to clean and wash it from all sides. After all, I will definitely not put it in this form! ;)






Then about the motor.

[The_Glory]

Collection_133. ETK_11_Engine. Power unit

So, I'm starting the next season of the series!
Engine

Shortly before taking the car apart for restoration, I completely overhauled the engine. It is in good condition, and there were no complaints about its work. That is why I am not going to completely disassemble it. Purely "cosmetic" work will be carried out - cleaning, washing, painting and assembly, according to the ETK catalog.
Power unit


Although the engine is in good condition, its appearance is not very beautiful.






First of all, I removed the manual transmission - there will be separate entries about this. Then washing, cleaning and painting. I decided to paint with heat-resistant paint - I hope that it will hold up better than the usual paint from the previous repair. I will also use aluminum and zinc paints.


After cleaning, all numbers and markings became clearly visible. Everything corresponds to the BMW 325i model.


Including the engine number. By the way, there was an interesting story with him when I bought this car. When completing the documents, the expert looked for the engine number for a very long time, cleaned something there, wiped it, looked... but never found it. And in the end, he made a note - "the engine number is destroyed by corrosion"! It's not surprising - because he was looking for it on the large upper platform, not below! ))) After cleaning the lower little area, I finally found out my engine number just now!


As you can see, the number is somewhat unusual. I found numbers in this format only in the photo of the American E30. Amazingly. On European cars, the engine number is usually indicated in the following format:
256E
25 - 2.5 liters
6 - 6 cylinders
E - injector

I have simply indicated - 325i, and some numbers. If anyone knows what these numbers mean, I would be grateful for the information.

I'll brag a little about the entire crankcase! This is after many years of driving on our "wonderful" roads on a rigid static suspension with -60...80 mm lowering and no additional crankcase protection! ;)


I decided not to paint the crankcase and cylinder head, but simply washed it well and cleaned it mechanically with a brush.

Mechanical cleaning of the engine block.


Treated several times with a rust converter. Solvent washing and degreasing.


Painting in two layers with black heat-resistant paint, with hot drying.


The color is interesting, but too matte - it looks like a primer. Therefore, on top there is a layer of heat-resistant transparent varnish, with hot drying.


Everything is the same on the other side.








The gears are also cleaned and painted with zinc paint, the aluminum cover - with aluminum paint. As I said, I don't see any point in taking them apart - all gaskets and oil seals were replaced when the engine was repaired.


The flywheel is mechanically cleaned with a brush.


And the valve cover has not been painted yet.


I haven't decided yet whether to leave it black, or paint it silver, or at all, put another cover, not painted. Can it be painted in body color? what do you think In any case, I will probably paint it with powder paint together with the intake manifold - then I will decide on the color.







Looks good to me. ;)






Most of the parts are also already ready for assembly. It remains to buy some small things - gaskets, rubber rings, washers.


Hinged units are also almost completely ready.
Next time I will write about assembly.

[The_Glory]

I haven't written anything in a while - there was no time, but the assembly of the motor is progressing little by little.
All spare parts have arrived, all parts are painted, fasteners are galvanized. The same process is going on, albeit rather slowly. Also because of the russian shit, there is no light in the garage more time than it is - this also significantly delays it.

[The_Glory]

Collection_134. ETK_11_Engine. Water pump of the cooling system. Thermostat housing

So, we start the assembly with the water pump.
Cooling system water pump




My E30 had the entire cooling system installed from the E34. In my opinion, a radiator with a built-in expansion tank looks more aesthetically pleasing under the hood than a separate remote tank with its additional hoses. The early E30 tank, in general, looks somewhat archaic, and I have nowhere to install the late tank, because there is no bracket for its attachment on the body. Yes, there will be another tank there, but I will write about it in turn. So, I leave everything as it was. But there is one caveat - the pump was installed from before the restyling E30 (11 51 9 071 561), so there was no attachment for the metal tube of the cooling system. Therefore, I bought a new pump - already for the E30 restyling (11 51 9 070 758), so that everything was as it should be.

Part #1 - water pump (11 51 9 070 758). I bought an analogue from the manufacturer INA 538016310. The kit included a paper gasket.


Part No. 6 - sealing gasket (11 51 1 722 677). For some reason, I did not like the paper gasket, so I bought a higher quality gasket ELRING 774634
Part No. 10 - bolt M8X20 (07 11 9 903 039) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 11 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 3 pcs.
All other individual parts of the pump are no longer available.

For comparison: on the left - the pump before restyling, on the right - after restyling.




The only difference is the presence of a branch for the expansion tank, which I had previously blocked. Now, instead of it, there will be an "ear" for attaching the metal tube of the cooling system.
We wipe the surface of the block, and screw the pump through the gasket with three bolts.


The pump is installed.


Next, we install the thermostat housing with temperature sensors.
Cooling system thermostat housing




Part #1 - thermostat housing (11 53 1 730 470). I once wrote that there are several types of thermostat housings that differ in the number of holes for sensors, but according to ETK they all have the same number. Amazingly. I replaced the housing, it has two additional holes that are closed with threaded plugs.
Part #2 - M8 nut (11 61 1 713 432) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - sealing gasket (11 53 1 722 692) - 1 pc. The price of the original gasket, in my opinion, is too high, and I did not find any analogues, so I cut it myself.


Part No. 5 - thermostat 80CEL (11 53 1 710 953)
Part No. 6 - ring of round section 60X3.5 (11 53 1 265 084) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - cover (11 53 1 265 059)
Part No. 8 - screw for removing air (11 53 1 275 881) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - bolt M6X25 (07 11 9 913 589) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 10 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 3 pcs.


Part No. 11 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 3 pcs. Aluminum 14mm.
Part No. 12 - temperature sensor 1-POL (12 62 1 710 512) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - temperature sensor 2-POL M12X1.5 (13 62 1 709 966) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A12X15.5 AL (07 11 9 963 130) - 1 pc. Aluminum 12 mm.
Detail No. 15, No. 16 - not used. Instead of them, 14mm threaded plugs are installed.


We screw in the sensors and plugs, install the thermostat and rubber ring, and assemble the thermostat housing.




We install the thermostat housing on the engine through the gasket. Just in case, I lubricated the gasket with sealant. And here again because of the damned Muscovites, they turned off the light!... I was screwing in the dark.


The thermostat is installed.




Then the belt and tags.

[The_Glory]

Collection_135. ETK_11_Engine. Timing belt. Housing of the timing unit

Timing belt




As I said earlier, the motor will not be disassembled, as it was recently repaired, so now only the belt and roller are replaced. And that - more for prevention and beauty.
Part #1 - toothed belt Z=127 (11 31 1 713 361). There are two types - with 127 and 128 teeth. In my case, it is a Continental CT520 belt with 127 teeth.

Parts No. 2...No. 15 - gears of the gas distribution mechanism. I simply cleaned and painted them without removing them.
Part No. 16 - tension roller (11 31 1 711 154). There are two types - for a belt with 127 and 128 teeth. In my case, this is the INA 531000110 roller for a 127 tooth belt.

It is important that the roller corresponds to the number of teeth of the belt! The number of teeth is indicated on it.

Part No. 17 - screw (11 31 1 272 433) - 1 pc. Pin for fixing the roller.
Part No. 18 - spring (11 31 1 267 746) - 1 pc. Belt tensioning mechanism.
Part No. 19 - pin (11 31 1 280 960) - 1 pc. Belt tensioning mechanism.
Part No. 20 - bolt M8X20 (07 11 9 915 093) - 1 pc. Belt tensioning mechanism.
Part No. 21 - timing belt replacement sticker (11 31 1 739 073) - 1 pc. I will glue all the factory stickers after the assembly is completed. For now, I will stick the sticker that came with the belt.

We screw the roller to the block with a pin, but do not tighten it. We insert a pin with a spring and compress it as much as possible. In this position, we fix the roller with a bolt.


When installing the toothed belt, it is very important to correctly set the gears of the crankshaft and camshaft according to the factory marks!
The lower mark - the line on the crankshaft flange must coincide with the notch on the lower cover.


The upper mark - the arrow on the camshaft gear must coincide with the line on the cylinder head.


We set both labels and in this position put the belt on the gear. Then we release the bolt of the roller so that it tightens the belt. We make two complete revolutions of the crankshaft, and check whether the marks have not gone astray.






If the marks are in place, tighten the bolt and roller pin. The belt is installed. Pistons with valves do not meet!


The Continental sticker is a great size for this pad. Then I will write the departure date in it ;)


Next, we install the belt covers.
Timing unit housing lower




I did not remove this cover, I just cleaned and painted it.
Part #1 - cover (11 14 1 272 390)
Part #2 - centering sleeve D=10.5MM (11 12 1 726 238) - 2 pcs. I bought these bushings, but they did not help.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 2 pcs.
Part #4 - bolt M8X22 (07 11 9 913 652) - 2 pcs.
Parts No. 5...No. 9 - oil seals and gaskets were changed during engine repair.

Cylinder block / additional elements

The oil seal and gasket of the rear cover were changed during engine repair.

Timing block housing upper




Part No. 1 - shield upper part (11 14 1 714 863) - 1 pc. There are several types, depending on the year of production. But it has the same number. It is distinguished by the presence of a fastener for a plastic wiring shield and a fastener for a metal tube of the cooling system.
Part #2 - shield lower part (11 14 1 271 862) - 1 pc. There are several types, depending on the year of production. It is distinguished by the presence of a fastener for a crankshaft position sensor. In my case, it is earlier, so the mount for the sensor is not used on it.
Part #3 - bolt M6X22 (07 11 9 904 505) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X55 - 1 pc. Here in EKT there is some error. No. 5 is not specified, and instead, No. 6 (07 11 9 912 351) M6X60 is specified. I don't know why, but it turned out to be long for me and did not twist all the way. So I shortened it to 55mm.
Part No. 6 - bolt M8X25 (07 11 9 913 653) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 7 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - rubber gasket (11 14 1 269 557) - 1 pc. Rubber protective shield.
Part #9 - not used.
Part No. 10 - hook (11 14 1 706 959) - 1 pc.

Part No. 11 - crankshaft position sensor (12 52 1 279 695) - 1pc. I will write about it later separately in the appropriate section.
Part No. 12 - bracket (11 14 1 713 173) - 1 pc. Crankshaft position sensor bracket.
Item No. 13 is not used.
Part No. 14 - bracket (11 14 1 716 134) - 2 pcs. Plastic shield bracket for sensor wiring.

Part No. 15 - shield (11 14 1 716 133) - 1 pc. Shield for sensor wiring.
Part No. 17 - centering sleeve D=10.5MM (11 12 1 726 238) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - centering sleeve D=8.5X13MM (11 12 1 726 244) - 1 pc.

For some reason, I didn't have bushing No. 17 - a hook is attached to it for lifting the motor, so for safety, of course, these bushings should be there. Installed


Now the hook will hold more securely on the bushings.


First screw the lower cover, then the upper one. By the way, the M8 nut that fixes both covers is not specified in the ETK. It is not necessary to tighten it - later, a light bar of the generator will be attached there.


We insert the plastic brackets of the shield into the upper cover, and snap the shield into them, laying the sensor wire under it. The sensor is installed on a bracket screwed to the engine block.


A protective plastic spiral is put on the sensor wire so that it is not damaged by the pulley, but I will write about it in the appropriate section.


A protective rubber shield is placed on the back of the cover. The sensor wire is clamped on the shield.




All protective timing covers are installed.


Next, the oil filter adapter.

[martauto]

Brilliant once again mate
I would love one day to see this car .
Mart.

[The_Glory]

Brilliant once again mate
I would love one day to see this car .
Mart.

thanks )

[The_Glory]

Collection_136. ETK_11_Engine. Lubricating system oil filter. Oil dipstick

BMW E30 cars with the M20B25 engine were equipped with an oil cooler as standard. To install its hoses on the engine block, a special oil filter adapter with a built-in thermostat is installed.

Lubrication system oil filter




Part #1 - oil filter (11 42 1 707 779). I always use the Mann-Filter (W71915).
Part No. 2 - ring of round section 65X3 (11 42 1 265 670) - 1 pc. Rubber ring.
Part #3 - PUROLATOR oil filter adapter (11 42 1 711 070). Comes complete with built-in thermostat and spring.

Part No. 4 - ring of round section 20.0X3 (11 42 1 714 764) - 1 pc. Rubber ring installed on the bolt (#6). But it is not round, but flat, and flush with the surface of the bolt. At the same time, the bolt goes in quite tightly. And with a round ring, it may not fit at all... Therefore, although I bought such a similar ring, I decided to leave the old original one. If someone changed it, write what it is in the original.
Part No. 5 - sealing ring A27X32-AL (07 11 9 963 441) - 1 pc. Aluminum.
Part No. 5 - sealing ring A24X29-AL (07 11 9 963 384) - 1 pc. Aluminum. It is not clear what this ring is for. Its size does not fit anywhere and it was not installed there. Perhaps this is another error in ETK. If anyone knows for sure, please write.
Part No. 6 - PUROLATOR hollow bolt (11 42 1 711 071) - 1 pc.

Part No. 7 - set of gaskets (11 42 9 059 338) - 1 pc. The set consists of a rubber sealing ring 24.5x3 mm, an aluminum plug, and a metal retaining ring. I don't understand why it is not possible to order the original rubber ring separately, but only together with the plug and retaining ring? Why change the plug? Therefore, I bought a similar rubber ring 24x3 mm separately, although the old one was normal.


Assembly is simple - insert the thermostat and spring into the adapter.


We put the rubber ring on the plug, insert the plug, compress the spring with it and put the locking ring in the groove. Then we put an aluminum sealing ring on the bolt and insert it into the adapter. We insert a large rubber ring into the groove of the adapter. The adapter is assembled.


We bolt the adapter to the engine block in place of the oil filter in this position. Screw the oil filter to the adapter.


After installing the motor, we screw the hoses of the already installed oil cooler to the adapter.

ETK has another type of oil filter:
Environmental oil filter


I have never met him on an E30. If someone has such a filter, I would be grateful for a photo. I wonder what he looks like. Probably something similar to the filter on the M50 engines...

I skip the other sections on the lubrication system, as they relate to the "innards" of the engine.




As I have already said, during its repair there, everything that was necessary was already replaced.

The next section of ETK
Oil dipstick




Part #1 - oil dipstick L=533.5MM (11 43 1 718 863).
Part #2 - guide pipe (11 11 1 705 786).
Part #3 - bracket (11 43 1 720 566).
Part No. 4 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 905 524) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - clamp (11 43 1 258 342).
Part No. 6 - M6 nut (07 11 9 905 543) - 2 pcs.


It is important to use the dipstick that matches the motor, as they have different lengths and oil level markings.
The tube is tightly inserted into the engine block. A collar is put on the tube from above, to which the bracket is screwed with a bolt and a nut. The bracket is fixed with a nut and washer to the stud on the intake manifold. Since the collector is not yet installed, I did not install the tube bracket either. So far, I just tried it on in approximately this position.


Next, about the details of the engine block.

[The_Glory]

Collection_137. ETK_11_Engine. Engine crankcase block

Engine crankcase block


Again, I did not completely disassemble the engine block, so the photo shows only those parts that were removed.


Part #1 - cylinder block with pistons (11 11 1278 921). There is no such number in ETK for some reason... strange.

Part #2 - bolt M10X75 (11 11 1 735 525). It was not filmed.
Part No. 3 - oil pressure sensor (12 61 1 710 509). I had a sensor installed under the restyling wiring connector, so I left it.
Part No. 4 - plug D=12.0MM (11 11 1 268 539) - 2 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 5 - threaded fitting (11 11 2 140 435). On my unit, there is no place for its installation, just like the fitting itself. Maybe it depends on the year of release...
Part No. 6 - centering sleeve D=12.5MM (11 11 1 280 594) - 2 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 7 - threaded plug AM14X1.5 (07 11 9 919 228) - 1 pc. Plug for draining antifreeze from the engine block.
Part No. 8 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 1 pc. Aluminum.
Part No. 9 - ring of circular section (11 15 1 714 390) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - spacer washer (11 15 1 280 937) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - tube (11 15 1 280 938) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - spring (11 15 1 265 346) - 1 pc.

Part #13 - threaded plug AM12X1.5 (07 11 9 919 225) - not used.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A12X15.5 AL (07 11 9 963 130) - 2 pcs. Aluminum.
Part No. 15 - ring of round section 79X2.5 (11 11 1 285 403) - 1 pc. It was not filmed.
Part No. 16 - cover (11 11 1 285 395) - 1 pc. It was not filmed.
Part No. 17 - protective shield (11 14 1 280 826) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - cover (11 11 1 714 712) - 11 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 19 - centering sleeve D=14.5MM (11 11 1 743 118) - 2 pcs. One was missing, he installed.
Details No. 20...No. 22 - Not filmed.
Part No. 23 - bearing 11.4X16 (11 11 1 265 412) - 1 pc.
Part No. 24 - sealing ring 42x3 (12 11 1 363 190) - 1 pc.
Part No. 25 - bearing cover (11 41 1 276 333) - 1 pc.
Part No. 26 - bracket (12 12 1 364 199) - 1 pc.
Part No. 27 - bolt M8X28 (07 11 9 913 659) - 1 pc.
Part No. 28 - threaded fitting M12 (11 12 1 740 3960 - 1 pc.

Part No. 29 - rubber gasket 305MM (11 14 1 287 846) - 1 pc.
Part No. 30 - stiffness insert (11 14 1 286 342) - 1 pc.
Part No. 31 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 32 - bolt M8X65 (07 11 9 912 535) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 33 - bolt M8X45 (07 11 9 902 955) - 1 pc.
Part No. 33 - bolt M8X80 (07 11 9 912 558) - 1 pc.

Part No. 34 - Torx bolt M8X80 (23 00 1 434 509) - 4 pcs. Manual transmission mounting bolts.
Part No. 35, No. 36 - not used.
Part No. 37 - cover (11 11 1 718 873). In my case, it is not used - an oil dipstick tube is installed in its place.
Part No. 38 - a set of gaskets. It was not filmed.

The bearing cap (#25) is simply pulled up, using a screwdriver or a flat blade. I had it with an old sealing ring. I bought a 42x3 mm ring, but I guess I need to take a little smaller, somewhere 41x3, or maybe even 40x3, so that it fits more tightly on the lid. We put the ring on the cover with the bearing.


We insert the cover and tightly drive it into the engine block until it stops. We fix it from above with a bracket with a bolt.


We put the tube (#11) with washer, spring and rubber rings. I have not put the spring yet, because it is pressed by the intake manifold.
Screw the fitting (No. 28) with an aluminum ring (No. 14).
Install the shield (No. 17) on the bushings (No. 19).
We fasten with bolts (No. 32, No. 33) the stiffness insert through the rubber gasket (No. 29).





We twist the threaded plug (No. 7) through the aluminum ring (No. for draining the antifreeze from the engine block.
We screw the oil pressure sensor (No. 3) through the aluminum ring (No. 14).


That's all for the block.
I skip all other sections on the piston system, since everything necessary there was replaced earlier.












Next, probably a little about attachments...

[The_Glory]

Collection_138. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Generator

Let's go to the ETK section
Engine electrical equipment

I'll start with the units on the generator.

Alternator mounting parts




Part #1 - support bracket (32 41 1 264 642).
Part #2 - bolt M8X30 (07 11 9 913 664) - 2 pcs.
Part #3, #6, #12 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 095) - 5 pcs.
Part #4 - bolt M8X60 (07 11 9 901 797) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M8X85 (12 31 1 716 014) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7, No. 11 - self-locking nut (07 12 9 946 400) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 8 - clamping plate (12 31 1 274 833) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part #10 - screw with a semicircular head M8X80 (12 31 1 276 516) - 1 pc.

The generator support bracket is also a bracket for the power steering pump. Although, there is also a separate bracket - only for the generator. This is exactly the bracket I had installed earlier, but I replaced it when installing the hydraulic booster. Therefore, I will immediately write here about the fastening of the power steering pump.
Power steering pump. support bracket




In the photo, there was a strange reflection on the plates - as if they were rusty) In fact, they are shiny and beautiful)

Part #1 - support bracket (32 41 1 264 642). The same bracket #1 as for the generator.
Part No. 2 (No. 11) - bolt M8X60 (07 11 9 901 797) - 1 pc. Bolt #4 for the generator.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 095) - 6 pcs. Washer No. 3 for the generator.
Part #4 - bolt M8X30 (07 11 9 913 664) - 2 pcs. Bolt #2 for the generator.
Part No. 5 - mounting plate (32 41 1 284 735) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - mounting plate (32 41 1 284 736) - 1 pc.
Part #7 - bolt M8X22 (07 11 9 913 652) - 5 pcs.
Part #8 - ZF mounting plate (32 41 1 128 080) - 1 pc. For VICKERS pump (32 41 1 132 164).
Part #9 - ZF mounting plate (32 41 1 288 597) - 1 pc. For VICKERS pump (32 41 1 132 166).
Part No. 10 - bolt M8X20 (07 11 9 903 039) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - bolt M8X35 (07 11 9 913 676) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 12 - clamping plate (12 31 1 719 992) - 1 pc.
Part #13 - screw with a semicircular head M8X30 (32 41 1 277 375) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part No. 15 - self-locking nut (07 12 9 946 400) - 1 pc.

So, we assemble the bracket for the generator and the pump. Plates #8 and #9 will be installed later, together with the pump.


We fasten the bracket to the engine block with two bolts from the side and one bolt from the front end.




Next, about the details of the generator.
V-belt




Part #1 - V-belt 9.5X965 (11 51 1 706 710). I bought all the belts from the manufacturer Continental. AVX10X960 generator belt.

Part #2 - insulating part 8/5MM (12 31 1 286 664) - 1 pc. Plastic cover on the terminals of the generator. Plastic washers for generator terminals and nuts with washers for wiring terminals are not specified in ETK.
Part No. 3 - BOSCH generator capacitor (12 31 1 356 564) - 1 pc. According to the Bosch number (0290800036), it is much cheaper.

Part No. 4 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X8 (07 11 9 913 420) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - generator ground wire L=170MM (12 52 1 312 124) - 1 pc. In the original, it is red for some reason - strange. I made it myself from a brown wire, like all "ground" wires in BMW.


I had no complaints about the operation of the generator, but it did not look very beautiful, so of course I also completely disassembled and restored it. Replaced both bearings, brushes, contact rings of brushes, rubber sealing ring, rubber bushings, capacitor. Everything else is cleaned, painted and galvanized.


Several types of generators were installed on the E30. In my case, it is an 80A generator - Bosch Type N 0 120 469 619.
Alternator parts for 80A




Part No. 1 - nut M14X1.5 (07 11 9 901 309) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - spring ring B14 (07 11 9 933 148) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - pulley D=66MM (12 31 1 288 238) - 1 pc. It consists of five parts - two pulley "plates" and three washers.

Part No. 4 - impeller (12 31 1 735 306) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - key 4X5 (07 11 9 951 453) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - drive support (12 31 1 288 458) - 1 pc. Front cover.
Part No. 7 - retaining ring (12 31 1 276 226) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - spacer washer (12 31 1 268 420) - 4 pcs.
Part #9 - bushing 75 SHORE LANG (12 31 1 268 433) - 4 pcs. I used the 01612 Febi analogue.
Part No. 10 - sleeve (12 31 1 276 227) - 2 pcs. Metal guide sleeve for the bolt.

Part No. 11 - bearing 47X17X14 (12 31 1 722 979) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - mounting plate (12 31 1 727 7400 - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - rotor (12 31 1 288 423) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - bearing 28X12X12 (12 31 1 714 521) - 1 pc.
Part No. 15 - generator winding (12 31 1 727 758) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - diode panel LIMA (12 31 1 288 457) - 1 pc.

Part No. 17 - ring of round cross-section ( 12 31 1 276 2240 - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - housing (12 31 1 288 456) - 1 pc.
Part No. 19 - regulator (12 31 1 726 022) - 1 pc.
Part No. 20 - bolt (12 31 1 747 251) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 21 - bolt (12 31 1 727 760) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 22 - bolt (12 31 1 738 099) - 1 pc. Long screw for the ground wire.
Part No. 23 - generator "brushes" (12 31 1 727 756) - 1 pc. Set of "brushes" Bosch (1127014022).

Part No. 24 - rotor repair kit (12 31 1 727 762).

We install rubber bushings in the front cover and metal guides, fix them with washers and a retaining ring. If you look carefully at the ETK scheme, the upper and lower guides are installed from different sides. This is not accidental, and it is important! Previously, I did not pay attention to this and put bushings on one side. At the same time, the generator becomes a little oblique, and probably that is why the upper rubber sleeve was constantly wearing out and the belt began to squeak. The bushings protrude at different distances and this compensates for the difference in the plane of the lower attachment and the tension bar. In later generators, these bushings were completely removed, and different protrusions were simply made on the front cover from above and below.


Install the rubber ring in the generator housing.


We fasten the diode panel with the winding with six screws.


We install the capacitor and terminals.


We insert the rotor with bearings, screw the front cover, pulley and impeller.
Finished result:

Generator




Part #1 - generator (12 31 1 288 409).

Now the generator has a much better look and condition.








Here, the difference in the size of the protrusion of the upper and lower bushings is clearly visible:


We install the lower bracket on the bracket, and the upper - on the tension bar. The tension bar is screwed to the cover pin.






The generator is installed. I will install and tighten the belt after installing all the pulleys.

[The_Glory]

Collection_139. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. Additional elements of the air conditioner compressor. Belt drive

So, the generator bracket and the power steering pump are installed. My old pump is beyond repair, so I will be ordering a new one. But that will be later.
Almost the same with the compressor of the air conditioner - apparently it needs to be completely restored. Therefore, I also postponed it for later. For now, I will write about the compressor mounting bracket.
Let's go to the ETK section
Heating and Air Conditioning

Unit
Additional elements of the air conditioner compressor. Belt drive




Part No. 1 - support bracket (64 52 1 717 007)
Part #2 - bolt M8X25 (07 11 9 920 022) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 3 - bolt M8X100 (07 11 9 912 570) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - self-locking nut M8 (07 12 9 946 400) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 5 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 7 pcs.
Part No. 6 - tension bar (64 52 1 284 748) - 1 pc. Or (64 55 1 714 458) - a little shorter.
Part No. 7 - spacer washer (07 11 9 936 441) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part #9 - screw with a semicircular head M8X110 (64 52 1 284 966) - 1 pc.
Part #10 - V-belt 12.5X823 KLIMA (64 55 1 722 991). I bought all the belts from the manufacturer Continental. Air conditioner compressor belt AVX13X825.


We collect the bracket.


But we fasten it to the engine block with four bolts.




I will install the compressor later, after its restoration.

[lellis]

Another useful thing, which is also for some reason not indicated in the ETK at all, is the additional sound insulation of the torpedo. It was used only on the E30 with a diesel engine. I decided to also install it for better noise insulation of the cabin. It looks like this and includes six elements (one was missing, so I cut it by analogy myself from the same material).


Before gluing the noise insulation, I cleaned the embedded parts for installing clamps and other metal surfaces of the torpedo from rust.
Three collars to the right.


Three clamps on the left and one more one on the left side torpedo bracket.


A place for an embedded clip for fastening a torpedo.


We prime and paint all internal metal surfaces and side brackets.


We glue the noise insulation to the torpedo, and glue the edges of the torpedo cladding where necessary.

Hi,
Firstly,
I can't believe I have never come across this thread! It is amazing.
I am interested in this insulation, do you know if there is a bmw part number for the pre-cut pieces?
Thanks

[The_Glory]

Hi,
Firstly,
I can't believe I have never come across this thread! It is amazing.
I am interested in this insulation, do you know if there is a bmw part number for the pre-cut pieces?
Thanks

Hello, thanks.
I looked through the entire ETK catalog for diesel E30s, but I could not find the part numbers for this sound insulation... The torpedo assembly for the diesel goes under the same number as the regular one. But in fact, on a diesel engine, it is equipped with this noise insulation. Apparently, this is another ETK wonder
That's why I bought this insulation at a junkyard.

[lellis]

Hi,
Firstly,
I can't believe I have never come across this thread! It is amazing.
I am interested in this insulation, do you know if there is a bmw part number for the pre-cut pieces?
Thanks

Hello, thanks.
I looked through the entire ETK catalog for diesel E30s, but I could not find the part numbers for this sound insulation... The torpedo assembly for the diesel goes under the same number as the regular one. But in fact, on a diesel engine, it is equipped with this noise insulation. Apparently, this is another ETK wonder
That's why I bought this insulation at a junkyard.

I see, thanks for the reply!
Unfortunately in the UK we did not get the diesel e30's so this would be hard for me to do. Maybe I could replicate, I want as little mechanical noise as possible.
I have the part number for the centre console insulation from your thread, so I will purchase that part.
Good luck with the rest of your project.

[The_Glory]

Hi,
Firstly,
I can't believe I have never come across this thread! It is amazing.
I am interested in this insulation, do you know if there is a bmw part number for the pre-cut pieces?
Thanks

Hello, thanks.
I looked through the entire ETK catalog for diesel E30s, but I could not find the part numbers for this sound insulation... The torpedo assembly for the diesel goes under the same number as the regular one. But in fact, on a diesel engine, it is equipped with this noise insulation. Apparently, this is another ETK wonder
That's why I bought this insulation at a junkyard.

I see, thanks for the reply!
Unfortunately in the UK we did not get the diesel e30's so this would be hard for me to do. Maybe I could replicate, I want as little mechanical noise as possible.
I have the part number for the centre console insulation from your thread, so I will purchase that part.
Good luck with the rest of your project.

I pasted my central console myself, by analogy with the photo of the diesel E30, with the same material. As well as both plastic shields in the box for small things - in diesels they are also noise-insulated.
And I bought the trim under the steering column from a diesel car a long time ago.
It will probably be difficult for you to find a right-hand drive. BTW, I didn't know diesel e30s weren't available in the UK... I thought they were only unavailable in America...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_140. ETK_11_Engine. Oil sump, oil measuring device

Oil pan, oil gauge


I did not analyze anything here, so there is nothing to write about. But there is a nuance.



Part No. 1 - oil sump (11 13 1 720 754). I already boasted that after many years of driving on a low static suspension, my engine pan remained intact! I just cleaned and washed it. He did not paint. After all, it was not painted from the factory, so I left it like that.

Part #2 - sealing gasket (11 13 1 730 234) - was not removed.
Part #3 - bolt M6X20 (07 11 9 915 031) - was not removed.
Part #4 - rubber sleeve (12 61 1 276 240). Here is the same nuance! I bought it, but it turned out that it is not used on the E30.

I couldn't understand exactly where it goes... There are no holes for it anywhere.

And as it turned out, it is placed in part No. 5, which is used only on M30 engines.
Part No. 5 - protective shield (12 52 1 276 200). Not used.

The top hole is for this insert.

The sensor on the M30 is placed in the tray from below, so it is covered with a protective metal shield (No. 11 on the M30 diagram) so as not to cling to lying policemen. It is in that shield at the exit of the wire that there is a hole for this insert (#14 on the M30 diagram). Sensor and shield in M30 on 3 bolts.
On the M20, the sensor is on 2 bolts, so that shield together with this insert will not fit on the M20 in any way. Although, according to ETK, it also goes to M20 - this is a mistake.
Part No. 6 - M6 nut (07 11 9 905 543) - 2 pcs. There is an error in the quantity in ETK again.
Item No. 7 is not used.
Part No. 8 - pin M6X25 (07 12 9 908 100) - 2 pcs. There is an error in the quantity in ETK again.
Part #9 - oil level sensor (12 61 1 277 240). Before restyling with a round connector, after restyling with a square one.
Part No. 10 - ring of round section (12 61 1 277 602) - 1 pc. I bought it just in case, but I didn't change it. I don't see the point in this.
Part No. 11 is a plug instead of a sensor. Only for machines without a control system. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 12 - sealing ring A12X17-CU (07 11 9 963 151) - 1 pc. Copper.
Part #13 - threaded plug M12X1.5 (11 13 1 273 0930 - 1 pc. Plug for draining lubricant.
I haven't drained the old oil yet, so the plug is still in place.


The M8 bolt with washer is still visible in the photo. For some reason, it is not specified in the ETK - it is a bolt that is used to fasten the "ground" wire from the body to the engine.

P.S.
The intake manifold and valve cover are painted - now I can fully complete the engine assembly.


P.P.S
I am proud of the gift from my friends-teammates for my birthday!




The test drive was successful!


Then about pulleys and belts.

[The_Glory]

Collection_141. ETK_11_Engine. Damper of torsional vibrations V-belt drive. Fan drive clutch fan

V-belt drive torsional vibration damper




Part #1 - damper of torsional vibrations (11 23 1 708 852). A rubber band is glued around the damper, which has a label that duplicates the label on the crankshaft.

Part #2 - belt pulley D=116MM (11 23 1 280 958). It is used only in the presence of power steering and / or air conditioning.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 6 pcs.
Part #4 - bolt M8X16 (07 11 9 913 612) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 6...No. 11 - bolt and crankshaft gear. It was not filmed. I just cleaned them and painted them on the spot.
Part No. 12 - V-belt 9.5X965 (11 51 1 711 091). I already wrote about it in the section about the generator - I bought all the belts from the manufacturer Continental. AVX10X960 generator belt.

So, we screw the damper and the pulley to the crankshaft flange. There is a special hole on the damper, through which it is put on the pin - that is, it is impossible to put it incorrectly. I used a threaded lock on the bolts just in case.


The duplicate mark on the damper matches the duplicate mark on the lower cover.


The damper is installed.

Fan drive clutch fan




Part #1 - fan 11-blade D=410MM (11 52 1 723 363). Since my entire cooling system is restyled, the fan is also for restyled cars. Before restyling, a 9-blade fan D=420MM (11 52 1 273 086) was installed.
Part #2 - BEHR fan clutch (11 52 1 740 962).
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 8 pcs.
Part No. 4 - bolt M6X16 (07 12 9 905 536) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X10 (07 11 9 913 426) - 4 pcs.
Part #6 - belt pulley D=129MM B=9.7 (11 51 1 271 424).
Part No. 7 - flange (11 51 1 277 387). It is an integral part of the water pump.
Part #8 - clutch nut. It is an integral part of the clutch.

Screw the coupling to the fan. I used a threaded lock on the bolts just in case.


It is interesting that the blades on the fan are not located symmetrically, with a different step between them.


We screw the pulley to the water pump. I used a threaded lock on the bolts just in case.
We put on and tighten the pump and generator belt.


Since I haven't bought a new power steering pump yet, and I haven't restored the air conditioner compressor yet, accordingly, there is nowhere to put their belts either. Therefore, their pulley remains empty for now.
I immediately screwed on the metal tube of the cooling system, because it will be a bit inconvenient to do it on the car. I will write about it later, in the appropriate section. The tube is attached with two bolts. One to the top cover.


Second to the special "ear" on the water pump.


Now screw the coupling with the fan. Please note that there is a left-hand thread!


Next, about the intake manifold and valve cover.

[The_Glory]

Collection_142. ETK_11_Engine. Cylinder head cover. Crankcase ventilation system

Cylinder head cover


My valve cover was previously powder coated red. But the paint peeled off in places, so I tried to remove it completely, but it turned out to be not easy... There was no time then, so I just painted the surface with ordinary black paint. It didn't turn out very well, but that's how it drove all the time. The paint peeled off again and the lid looked something like this.


But inside it was quite clean.


Especially compared to the Jetronic cover I bought a long time ago.


It temporarily covered the head of the cylinder block - also red, "racing"!


I also had another cover for Motronic, not painted - I decided to install it. But it was also very dirty inside. Therefore, I decided to remove the plate riveted from the factory. And it's not for nothing - there's just horror under it!


I don't know what to put in the motor on which she was standing, but there is a lot of dirt and soot and it was very difficult to wash it...


Looking at this, I decided to remove that plate on my lid as well. It was much cleaner there, but still a lot of soot.


It was not easy to wash the lids - I washed them with a solvent, brushes, several times. Then sand it. It was very difficult to get the powder paint residue off my lid. But as a result, I did get two completely clean lids.


Now you need to install the plates. At the factory, the plates were not riveted with rivets, but simply riveted pins cast together with the cover. That's why there are no holes there. So, I drilled the holes and cut the M3 thread into them. Used M3 stainless steel washers, spring washers and screws. This is important because the contact of aluminum with ordinary steel causes chemical corrosion.
Just in case, for additional fixation of the screws, I used a thread lock.


done


I hope that these cogs do not unscrew and do not fall into the engine!


In terms of color, I had options - silver, black and blue;) Or not to paint at all, but aluminum oxidizes and dirt stains remain on it. That's why I decided to paint. I powder coated one cover silver and will later paint the other cover black with silver stripes and BMW lettering. And the third one for Jetronic, maybe for an experiment, I will paint it in the color of the body ;)
And for now - a classic!


Part #1 - sealing gasket (11 12 1 730 271). I use the Elring 774693 gasket.
Part #2 - cylinder head cover (11 12 1 713 116). As I wrote above, they differ for Jetronic and for Motronic by the mounting of the intake manifold brackets. Although, all M20B25 engines are Motronic, but the cover is also Jetronic, only without the manifold bracket.
Part No. 3 - oil filler cap (11 12 1 716 993). I have two covers and both are not quite for the E30. One round metal from older "sharks" E21, E23, E28. The second square plastic one from newer E32, E34, E36. I don't really like the original cover for the E30 because it reminds me of a gas stove handle. Therefore, most likely, I will leave the square plastic one.

Part #4 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 8 pcs.
Part No. 5 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 8 pcs.

I didn't screw the cap on because the valves will still need to be adjusted before starting the engine.



Crankcase ventilation system




Part #1 - pipeline (11 42 1 265 376). It was not filmed.

Part #2 - clamp L16-30 (64 21 8 367 179) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - hose (11 15 1 708 801). I recently replaced it with a new Febi 12554.
Part #4 - clamp L18-24 (07 12 9 952 109) - 1 pc.

I will install the hose after installing the intake manifold and throttle.




Next, about the intake manifold.

[The_Glory]

Collection_143. ETK_11_Engine. Intake system

Intake system


I already wrote about the painting of the valve cover, but the story with the intake manifold was even more complicated... It was also, before me, painted with powder paint, in an equally "racing" yellow color! But in 24 years, the paint also began to peel off in places...


The experience of sandblasting the valve cover showed that it is very difficult to remove the powder paint even on a flat surface, not to mention all the "tricks" on the collector. Therefore, sandblasting is not an option. Peeling by hand is especially not an option. I already wanted to buy another collector, not painted. But then I was advised to try a paint wash - just like the one in the photo. Tried it - there is an effect!


Brushed the entire collector with that wash, and after about 15-20 minutes I got this picture - it's just cancer of the collector!


The paint was removed like a film - the result is quite good!


The remaining paint was processed again and removed manually with a metal brush. Also cleaned with a brush and washed the collector inside.


done


Now sandblast and the collector looks like new!


You can not paint. But the surface is porous and over time it will get dirty with dust and dirt. Therefore, I still decided to paint it with powder paint in silver color.






Part #1 - intake manifold (11 61 1 289 210). In fact, the number is slightly different (11 61 1 289 211), which is not in ETK - another mystery..

Part #2 - sealing gasket (11 61 1 726 012) - 1 pc. I use VICTOR REINZ 712703810 spacers
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (11 61 1 726 010) - 4 pcs. I use VICTOR REINZ 712703710 spacers

Part No. 4 - sealing gasket (11 61 1 717 286) - 1 pc. I did not really like the price of the original gasket, and I did not find any analogues. That's why I cut it myself.
Part No. 5 - cover (11 61 1 708 858).
Part No. 6 - bolt M6X25 (07 11 9 919 926) - 3 pcs. Why is the quantity 1 pc indicated in ETK? - I do not understand.

Part No. 7...No. 10 is not used. These are parts for Jetronic.
Part No. 11 - spacer washer 6.4 (07 11 9 936 425) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - bolt M6X16 (07 12 9 905 536) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 13 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 12 pcs.
Part No. 14 - M8 nut (11 61 1 713 432) - 12 pcs.

Part No. 15 - pin M6X35 (07 12 9 908 103) - 4 pcs. Throttle mounting.

Part #17 - not used.
Part No. 16 - bracket (11 61 1 277 431). Fastening the accelerator cable.
Part No. 18 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 3 pcs.

Part #19, #20 - not used.
Part No. 21 - pin M6X30 (07 12 9 908 102) - 2 pcs. Fastening of the wiring bracket.
Part No. 22 - pin M8X28 (07 12 9 908 147) - 1 pc. Fastening of the bracket of the diagnostic connector.
Part No. 23 - bracket (11 61 1 708 838). Additional mounting of the collector.
Part No. 24 - cap D=5.0MM (11 61 1 437 694) - 1 pc. It is put as a plug on earlier #5 covers for an additional outlet. I have a cover without an additional tap, so it is not used in my case.

Screw the bracket (#23) to the valve cover. We install the manifold gaskets.


To install the collector on the pins, and at the same time insert the crankcase ventilation tube with a spring into it, you need either an assistant or a third hand! I didn't have either, so I had to use materials at hand - a thin wire for a spring tie. So you can fully insert the tube, put rubber rings on it, and put the collector on it.


Then we pull out the wire and the tube is supported by a spring.


We screw the bracket (#16)


On the other hand, install the cover (No. 5) through the gasket (No. 4), and fix the collector to the bracket (No. 23)


I did not tighten these bolts, as it will be necessary to remove the cover to adjust the valves.

The collector is installed - now it is already something like an M20!

[The_Glory]

Collection_144. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. High voltage wire. Spark plugs

The engine is almost assembled, it remains to wait for a few new parts to it. Therefore, let's move on to the ETK section

Engine electrical equipment

Let's start with the subdivision
High voltage wire




Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 1 (12 12 1 710 631) - 1pc.
Part #1 - High voltage wire cylinder #2 (12 12 1 710 632) - 1pc.
Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 3 (12 12 1 710 633) - 1 pc.
Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 4 (12 12 1 710 634) - 1pc.
Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 5 (12 12 1 710 635) - 1pc.
Part #2 - High voltage wire cylinder #6 (12 12 1 717 375) - 1pc. With a pulse sensor of the position of the camshaft.
Part No. 3 - Central high voltage wire T1KL4 (12 12 1 720 601) - 1pc. Wire to the ignition coil with a protective rubber cover.

I have a set of BOSCH wires. They are in good condition and their resistance is as rated. Somewhere on the Internet I found information that the high-voltage wires for the M20B25 should have a resistance of about 6 kΩ, and the central wire should have a resistance of 2 kΩ. The results of my measurements are similar - the top row of numbers:


By the way, there is an interesting original option - "Jute of high voltage wires with protection against rodents"!

Harness high voltage with rodent protection


This is a set of high-voltage wires with protective plastic rings on them, and an additional plastic cover. Apparently they are made of plastic, which rodents do not like the taste of!


Part No. 1 - High voltage wiring harness with rodent protection (12 12 1 735 217). No longer available to order.
Manufacturer of wires

In addition to protection against rodents, I discovered another interesting thing - the resistance of these wires is much lower - only 1kΩ (bottom row of numbers). I heard something about low resistance wires - could that be them? I don't think it's a coincidence, because the four wires have the same indicators. The last two wires are obviously broken. And in general, their condition is bad. I took them, hoping to rearrange the plastic rings on my wires - to replenish my collection of original options ;) But for this, the wires will have to be cut and the contacts re-crimped. Didn't do it. Maybe later I will try to cut the rings and rearrange them in this way.


The plastic cover can be ordered only complete with wires. It has a number on it (12 12 1 735 181), but for some reason such a number is not in ETK. Therefore, it will not be possible to order it separately.


This cover fits well with the standard cover.


Spark plugs




Part #1 - spark plug BOSCH W7 DCR (12 12 9 061 871) - 6 pcs.
Part #2 - a kit for 4-cylinder engines. Not available to order.
Part #3 - a kit for 6-cylinder engines. Not available to order.

I always use NGK ZGR5A spark plugs.


High voltage wiring harness




Part No. 1 - high voltage wiring harness (12 12 1 710 664). The set includes all parts, except for parts No. 12...No. 15.
Part #2 - cable (12 12 1 719 889). Plastic pencil case for wiring.
Part #3 - high voltage wire (12 12 1 705 675). Probably sold by the meter.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #1 (12 12 1 706 186) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #2 (12 12 1 706 187) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #3 (12 12 1 706 188) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #4 (12 12 1 706 189) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #5 (12 12 1 706 190) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #6 (12 12 1 706 191) - 1 pc. Plastic tags on the wire with the corresponding number. My wires are marked, so I have not ordered these tags yet.

Maybe I'll order one later, for beauty, although they won't be visible under the lids anyway
Part No. 5 - cylindrical connector (12 12 1 705 656) - 14 pcs.
Part No. 6 - KBB 1000-OHM interference-suppressing plug (12 12 1 289 829) - 7 pcs.
Part No. 7 - 1000-OHM interference-suppressing plug (12 12 1 289 825) - 1 pc.
Part #8 - 5000-OHM spark plug wire tip (12 12 1 289 821) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rubber sleeve (12 12 1 710 584) - 1 pc. Instead, I will install an additional plastic "rodent protection" cover. She looks more beautiful.
Part No. 10 - protective cap (12 12 1 284 464) - 1 pc. Rubber cover for the ignition coil.
Part #11 - not used.
Part No. 12 - ignition distributor cover (12 11 1 715 905). Comes complete with plastic cover, bolts and washers for mounting.

Part No. 13 - ignition distributor rotor (12 11 1 715 906). Comes complete with bolts and washers for mounting.

Part No. 14 - cover (12 11 1 287 718). Protective plastic cover of the camshaft gear.
Part No. 15 - protective cap (12 11 1 710 553) - 1 pc. Plastic cover.
Part #16 - spark plug BOSCH W8DC (12 12 1 276 283) - 6 pcs. As I said, I always use NGK ZGR5A spark plugs.

So, we put on a plastic cover, insert bolts with washers into the cover and the rotor.


Insert the plastic gear cover and fasten the rotor with three screws.


We fasten the cover with three bolts.


Carefully and tightly place the wires in a plastic case, according to their number and length. Align their ends and close the pencil case with a lid. The pencil case is screwed with two nuts to the studs, together with the valve cover.
Because of the damned Muscovites, the lights were turned off again, so we had to install the wires already in the dark...
The cover (#15) snaps onto the lower plastic cover. Then a plastic "rodent protection" cover is put on the pencil case (#2) and the lid (#15).




The appearance with it is much better, although it somehow did not become very tight. It will be necessary to somehow press it a little.




High voltage wires are installed.


It remains to fasten several brackets for wiring, and lay the wire of the impulse sensor of the sixth cylinder.

[The_Glory]

Collection_145. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Wire harness fastening elements (part 1)

Harness fixings



There is some confusion with numbers and details, but I will try to figure it out somehow.



Part #1 - diagnostic connector plug holder (12 52 1 714 132) - 1 pc. Installed since 1986. Since I have an 86 motor wiring, the holder is also later.
Part #2 - not used. Although the picture looks like an oil dipstick tube bracket.
Part No. 3 - plate (12 14 1 269 699) - 1 pc. Not available to order. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. If anyone knows, I would be grateful for the information.
Part No. 4 - plate (12 42 1 289 510) - 1 pc. Not available to order. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. If anyone knows, I would be grateful for the information.
Item No. 5 is not used. But there is a mistake here.
Part No. 6 - bracket (12 52 1 711 228) - 1 pc. In fact, judging by the photo, this is part #5. Bracket for motor wiring. It is installed under the hood, on the shield of the interior heater fan niche.
Part No. 7 - bracket (12 52 1 285 040) - 1 pc. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. It looks like a connector holder for ABS or Airbag sensors.
Part #8 - bracket (12 52 1 714 333) - 1 pc. "Ground" terminal on the right support of the body.
Part #9 - not used.
Part No. 10 - bracket (12 52 1 719 510) - 1 pc. Bracket for motor wiring. It is installed under the intake manifold.
Part No. 11 - bracket (12 52 1 288 127) - 1 pc. Not available to order. But there is a mistake.
Part No. 12 - bracket (12 52 1 719 521) - 1 pc. In fact, judging by the photo, this is part #11. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. If anyone knows, I will be grateful for the information.
Part No. 13 - ground wire 235MM (12 51 1 714 039) - 1 pc. In fact, judging by the photo, this is part #14. I already wrote about it earlier - the wire to the "mass" of the engine.
Part #14 - not used. But there is a mistake.

In this part, I will write only about parts #1, #5 and #10, because they are installed on the engine. I will write about other details after installing the engine on the car.

So, the bracket (#10) is screwed with two M6 nuts to the studs on the intake manifold.


Together with it, the bracket for the oil dipstick tube, which I already wrote about earlier, is fixed to the front stud.


This bracket serves to fix the engine wiring and cooling system hoses. About this in the corresponding section.


The bracket (#1) is screwed with an M8 nut to the upper stud on the intake manifold.


The plug of the crankshaft position sensor is fixed in it.


The plug of the pulse sensor of the position of the camshaft is also fixed there.




I routed the two wires together behind the pulleys, but I guess that's not right. After installing the cooling system hoses I will check it. If I was wrong, I will write about it later.

Next, I will install the throttle.


P.S.
I installed an alarm with a magnetic lock a long time ago, but I did not install the lock itself, because for some reason the paint did not stick to its coating. Finally, I solved this problem - sandblasting, priming and painting. Now the paint is holding up well.


And finally I installed it. The cover of the lock with the diode is inserted through the rubber gasket from the outside, and the lock from the middle. Then it is fixed with an elastic clamp.


We connect to the door wiring, fix the plug with a clamp.


Now everything is installed.


Two locks! ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_146. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture. Throttle body

Throttle body




Almost all throttle parts are no longer available to order, so it is important not to lose them.
Part #1 - throttle body (13 54 1 707 730). I cleaned the case well, did not paint it. It comes complete with flanges for hoses, which often no longer hold in the housing. I fixed them with gasket sealant.

Part #2 - drive lever (13 54 1 714 174).
Part No. 3 - spring (13 54 1 717 027) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - sleeve (13 54 1 714 176) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - spacer washer 19X8X0.1 (13 54 1 256 344) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - elastic washer (13 54 1 714 204) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - locking washer 8.4X13 (13 54 1 267 663) - 1 pc.
Part #8 - nut M8X1 (13 54 1 267 664) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - spring (13 54 1 717 028) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - sleeve (13 54 1 714 178) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - sleeve (13 54 1 714 177) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - elastic washer (13 54 1 714 204) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - locking washer 7.0 (07 11 9 905 858) - 1 pc.

Part No. 14 - spacer washer 13.5X8X0.5 (13 54 1 256 351) - 1 pc. I did not remove the axis, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 15 - retaining ring 8X0.8 (07 11 9 934 034) - 1 pc. I did not remove the axis, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 16 - mounting pin (13 54 1 278 976) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 17 - cap D=4.7MM (13 54 1 278 977) - 1 pc. No longer available to order, so I just picked up something similar in size.
Part No. 18 - screw (13 54 1 714 186) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 19 - ring of round cross-section (13 54 1 711 026) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part #20 - BLAU cap (13 54 1 713 477) - 1 pc. No longer available to order, so I just picked up something similar in size.

Part No. 21 - sealing gasket (13 54 1 285 471) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 22 - cover (13 54 1 711 042) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 23 - bolt M4 TX20 8.8 (13 54 1 705 561) - 3 pcs. I did not remove them, so they remained on the case.

Part No. 24 - throttle position sensor (13 63 1 710 559). Took it apart, cleaned it, lubricated the contacts.
Part #25 - bolt M4 X 9.2 (13 54 1 705 562) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 26 - cap D=7.0MM (11 61 1 727 176) - 1 pc. Judging by its size and photo, this cap is used as a plug for the throttle body flange on machines without a carbon adsorber. In my case, the hose from the adsorber is put there, so the cap is not used.
Part No. 27 - gasket (13 54 1 289 576) - 1 pc. I cut it myself.
Part No. 28 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 4 pcs. Fastening the damper body to the collector.
Part No. 29 - accelerator pedal cable support SCHWARZ (13 54 1 747 519) - 1 pc. It is already installed on the car together with the cable.

In ETK, for some reason, there is another section on the throttle - a more coarse-grained one:
Throttle body




Part #1 - throttle body assembly (13 54 1 716 065).
Part #2 - throttle position sensor (13 63 1 710 559).
Part #3 - bolt M4 X 9.2 (13 54 1 705 562) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - cover (13 54 1 711 042) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 5 - sealing gasket (13 54 1 285 471) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part #6 - bolt M4 TX20 8.8 (13 54 1 705 561) - 3 pcs. I did not remove them, so they remained on the case.
Part No. 7 - cap D=7.0MM (11 61 1 727 176) - 1 pc. Judging by its size and photo, this cap is used as a plug for the throttle body flange on machines without a carbon adsorber. In my case, the hose from the adsorber is put there, so the cap is not used.
Part No. 8 - gasket (13 54 1 289 576) - 1 pc. I cut it myself.
Part #9 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 4 pcs. Fastening the damper body to the collector.
Part No. 10 - accelerator pedal cable support SCHWARZ (13 54 1 747 519) - 1 pc. It is already installed on the car together with the cable.

So, we collect all the parts of the lever, according to the scheme.




We install the sensor.


It must be adjusted on the axis so that in the extreme position of the closed flap, contacts 2 and 18 are closed, and in the extreme position of the open flap, contacts 3 and 18 are closed. I have this extreme position counterclockwise along the adjustment grooves.


After installing the throttle on the intake manifold, it will be very inconvenient to adjust. Therefore, it is better to do this before installing it.
Now you can screw the throttle to the collector, through the gasket, and connect the crankcase ventilation hose to it.






It remains only to install the hoses of the cooling system, but you need to wait until some parts for their fastening arrive.
In the meantime, I will prepare the gearbox and clutch for installation.

[HartgeH27]

Collection_72. ETK_41_Body. Simultaneous locking (driver's lock).

And again about the locks... I already wrote about the fact that it was not easy to find an entire driver's lock. The new lock was also rejected - they are no longer available. Therefore, I continued to search at flea markets and junkyards, and I still managed to find the cylinder of the driver's lock for the central lock. On the fourth try... Almost intact... The locking shank was cracked, but the main thing is that the lever is intact!


I wanted to simply rearrange the entire lever on my already-picked lock, but it turned out that not everything is so simple. Both of my broken locks had a roller bearing on the lever and the one I found had a ball bearing. So, they are at least of two types.
Accordingly, other details of the lock are also different. It can be seen in the photo.


The bearing washer is on the left for the ball bearing, on the right for the roller bearing.


The washer with a spring also has minor differences in the retainers.


And most importantly - different grooves on the lock cylinder itself! Left for ball bearing, right for roller bearing.


So, simply repositioning the lever will not work - all the details of the locks are different.


What a fantastic article, thank you for your great work !

In addition to the locking shank and springs - here I was lucky, they are the same. So I had to change this lock under my own key, and rearrange the entire shank from my lock on it. I already have experience, so I did it quickly and without problems.


But, apparently, someone has already tried to open this lock with a screwdriver - that's why I had to change the decorative cover as well. I did not remove it on other locks. It is fixed with a core, and under it there is a curtain of slots for a key and a microscopic spring on the axis. Therefore, you need to remove it very carefully so that the spring does not fly out. I only miraculously did not lose her.


And installing it was even more difficult. Although, in fact, everything is simple - we insert the axis with the spring exactly like this:



We insert the curtain into the grooves, pressing the spring with it and hold it with a screwdriver. Now you need to somehow put the cover on the cylinder, and at the same time, so that the spring does not fly out together with the curtain! I struggled for probably 20 minutes... Then I found a working option - we insert the key into the cover (in the background of the photo):


Then we insert the key with the cover into the cylinder, and press the curtain with the spring with it. Now you can lower the cover on the key and fix it with the core. You need to turn not on the old marks, but in other places. There are no photos, because all hands were busy.
After several attempts, everything worked out - the cover is in place, and the blind moves normally with the key.
Next, simply assemble the lock with your own key, I already wrote about it - it is not worth repeating. The castle is ready.


The lock is assembled with heating.


We install a lock with a bracket, fix it with a heated bracket. Then we install the end of the key, connect it to the door wiring and fix the wiring in clips. Doing this is not very convenient, but in fact, everything is similar to what I previously described for the right door.


The driver's lock for the central lock is installed.


It remains to install the magnetic alarm lock, but I will write about this later in a separate topic.


So, now all the locks are installed, but the driver's lock works VERY tight and hard... If the passenger door lock opens and closes with a slight movement of the key, it takes a lot of effort to turn the key in the driver's door, after which it clicks loudly... That's probably why they're all already broken...and I think this lock won't last that long either... I don't know what can be done about it, and should it be...? I may have to return the modern alarm unit with remote control locks...

P.S.
An addition to the previous addition
I did manage to find the correct 85-87 lower engine bay shield.


Already washed it completely, it needs to be repaired a little more.
Now everything will be there as it should be.