Right so after topless's observation i had a look through some old photos of the tourings engine rebuild here is the head all built up before i torqued it down. Lets pay attention and i'll do my best to explain it all in how i saw it.
So things to note are exhaust valve is open on port 2 and inlet is open on port 3. I can't believe i dont have a picture of the end of the camshaft to compare to this one on the current engine
Here is the 2 doors head before i bolted it down. Look inlet 4 is open and exhaust 5 instead. So 180 degrees out.
Here is TOURING engine timed up to TDC, note the position of the rotor its pointing roughly at 5 o'clock.
This engine was 100% right off the bat because it fired first turn of the key and we haven't looked back
2 door head, so there are 2 holes on the end of the cam. This one had a little core plug in it and the cam sprocket wouldn't fit. So i put it on 180 out. Hence why at TDC we ended up with the valves open cylinders 4 and 5
Here is a better shot of the 2door engine before the sprocket and cambelt went on. You can see the 2 holes on the end of the camshaft they're 180 apart
this is just to show how the pistons come up and down on a 6pot. 1-6 together 2-5 together and then 3-4 together
So by having it the way i did, we ere never going to have valve piston contact. I'd thrown the ignition timing out basically. So it was firing each port when the engine was on its exhuast stroke. Hence the back fire when the exhaust was full of enough fuel. All makes sense now.
This is why we had fuel, ignition in the right order and most importantly compression.
So onto how i rectified it, the pictures aren't the best but i'll try best
Crank timed to TDC.
So again valves are open on pots 4-5. the rotor is pointing in the right direction. So this is how i had it timed up "right"
So i cranked the crank pulley 1 turn. This left the engine like this. Rotor pointing 180 out but the valves are now open on pots 2-3. So according to the engine were timed up "wrong" but we know its now correct. So by doing this all i had to do now was pull the cam sprocket off and turn it 180 degrees. By doing this i didnt have to get clever and remove the cambelt and try and turn the camshaft 180 with the head down and turning the crack so nothing hit and time it all right and end up in a mess! take a deep breath.
Hopefully your catching my drift now
Pulley off, but we have that little core plug stopping the sprocket from fitting in its correct postion.
rather than try and drill it out i basically fitted the sprocket held it where it was supposed to go and wound the bolt in. This pushed the core plug down into the end of the cam and the sprocket fitted perfectly.
So now it was all correct and i refitted it all and it started straight up with the horrid noise.
Now all thats left to do is diagnose the problem and go from there. I towed it home this morning and the car is back on the drive. Its a bit cold but i'll go out this afternoon and have a tinker.
