Worlds longest Resto, my C2 2.7 19/3/18 Vent guage action

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:41 pm

Big step there, well done. Bet your getting excited, will you sleep tonight?

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:41 pm

Nothing better than a well sorted m20! Good work

the round plug TPS of an auto have the standard on/off e30 TPS switch, and an inbuilt potentiometer for autos. Dont go losing it when you swap over to the manual TPS as these are what's needed for megasquirt/vems etc.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-E36-E ... 3cc011635f

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:43 pm

CHR1S1990 wrote:Nothing better than a well sorted m20! Good work

the round plug TPS of an auto have the standard on/off e30 TPS switch, and an inbuilt potentiometer for autos. Dont go losing it when you swap over to the manual TPS as these are what's needed for megasquirt/vems etc.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-E36-E ... 3cc011635f

No megasquirt here, Simon ain't stupid and he likes a car that starts and works !

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:45 pm

nothing wrong with megasquirt if you know what you're doing

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:49 pm

How much was the genuine headgasket Si ?

Mine is leaking oil exactly where you describe

and am planning on tackling it very soon

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:49 pm

CHR1S1990 wrote:nothing wrong with megasquirt if you know what you're doing

Going by most of the megasquirt turds I have come across, most installers don't

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:01 pm

Excellent work

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:04 pm

Simon13 wrote:Its like a slug but i reckon alot of that is to do with this...............

My educated guess is this is a 320 ECU as its no 325i one! Another safety tactic pete?!

Out ya bastard. As said it shouldn't be a slug as its a 6E 2 donk. A BBR starchip will get it moving nicely when it goes back in

A 164 ECU is a 325i one, alas it is the early version of Motronic 1.3 with the twin PCBs, so not easy to chip. You're better off swapping it for a later 173/380 single-PCB M1.3 ECU - a straight plug & play swap.

Alternatively, any of the later six-pot ECUs (172, 179, 381) will also work, if you fit a suitable chip.

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:12 pm

Speedtouch wrote:
Simon13 wrote:Its like a slug but i reckon alot of that is to do with this...............

My educated guess is this is a 320 ECU as its no 325i one! Another safety tactic pete?!

Out ya bastard. As said it shouldn't be a slug as its a 6E 2 donk. A BBR starchip will get it moving nicely when it goes back in
A 164 ECU is a 325i one, alas it is the early version of Motronic 1.3 with the twin PCBs, so not easy to chip. You're better off swapping it for a 173 - a straight plug & play swap.

Thank you Maurice, my innocence has been proven and my repution remains intact !

All I chawed was the minty foglight, oh and the tools and the mint spare and I couldn't let a eastern European manual worker have the rampant Bosch silvertop , tak tak !

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:26 pm

another good picture / write-up 'athon.

epic amount of pics on your threads si. you must be for ever wiping
your hands clean to use the camera.

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:10 pm

Great write up as always!

It must take you twice the time to get all the pic's. I'm glad you do though!

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:35 pm

Lovely looking engine build - look forward to seeing it in pride of place...

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:44 pm

I think the headgasket was about £90 Rob

As always kind and helpful replies! This will only be worth it if it makes the power, needs to be a quick'un i hope.

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:47 pm

Simon13 wrote: This will only be worth it if it makes the power, needs to be a quick'un i hope.

what are you hoping to see si?

Post Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:52 pm

Stock power would be nice. If it does what it should i'll be happy, so 210bhp and 213lbs will do me. The lighter fly and balanced bottom end will make it nicer to drive. Who knows the head work might yield a bit more? Or less we shall see.

No rain tomorrow please!

Post Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:00 am

Hey Simon,

Great work mate, brings back fond memories

fingers crossed for you..

Its all in the run in.

Post Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:16 am

Thats going to be one sleeper.

Post Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:20 am

Nice work Simon.
I dont know where you get the time for all this engine play!
Intresting read and a few steps closer for this car.

Post Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:31 pm

Well its in but it won't start. I seem to have no spark which is confusing me a bit as when i first went to start it did.

Frustrating but probably something simple.

Theres nothing fancy needing to be done when binning the autoness? I've unplugged the inhibitor part so it cranks over now.

Fuel is there. I'll get there just not today probably!

Post Sat Dec 31, 2011 6:45 pm

i appear to have the vibration damper on 180 out. So that would explain it. I'll swap it in the moring and see how i get on.

And there is spark i just couldn't see it!

Post Sat Dec 31, 2011 6:53 pm

vib damper/ bottom pulley can only go on one way Si, the inhibitor only stops the starter circuit so if it's cranking it's cool

have you plugged the CPS into the pulse plug try swappping them over ?

Post Sat Dec 31, 2011 7:09 pm

no that was another issue with the inhibitor. It won't start now.

I know it can only go on 1 way! but i must of F**ked it up it can be the only answer

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:32 am

Si. Check that rotor disc as well. You never know. It could happen twice....

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:03 am

No checked that! i've re checked the timing which was ok, and re done the crank pulley as i had it on wrong. So thats right. I've got enough working M20's to check with!

Still won't go. Going to comp test it. I need someone else who knows their onions to maybe re check what i've done. Its frustrating but i guess you can't do this work and it all goes 100%. Re comissioning an engine thats been in bits for 6 years!

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 10:36 am

must be something simple, whats it not doing si ? you got spark and fuel ?

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:27 am

both appear to present.

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:10 pm

Is it worth trying another crank sensor?

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:17 pm

You've probably just fitted something backwards mate.

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:35 pm

Try a few drops of fuel fed in through the spark plug holes...

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:52 pm

if anything there is too much fuel. I've done a comp test to be sure and its got loads of compression between 180PSI to 200PSI accross the board.

I've tried a crank sensor. But the thing is i've used the sensor and engine loom off the bronzit which was a working car. I was going to try a dab of oil down each bore to help the comp on start up but it looks like it doesn't need it.

Its going to be something silly it always is! It would be too easy if it all went well

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:03 pm

Not using 6-year old fuel in the tank, I hope?

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:05 pm

Fuel lines the right way...?

Gotta be something daft as you say!

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:33 pm

no fuel is fresh, all i get is the odd backfire. Its got to be timing, with spark and fuel there. I'll have to re re check everything again. Thats all it can be

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:52 pm

have you got the fuel lines on the right way around Si ? IIRC the top line coming up the inner wing feeds the rail, the regulator is connected to the bottom pipe on the inner wing

worth checking, I always get them wrong

Post Mon Jan 02, 2012 6:14 pm

they're right the old engine had the older style fuel rail where the stub is the bulkhead side of the engine. So i had to fit a shorter bit of pipe for the rail which makes me think that it right

I did swap the FPR for another as that came with the inlet from the scrappy. The only thing i could think of that wasn't from a working car. Just seems to have helped with some more backfires. Its almost like your engine Trevor!