First E30 - 316i Touring Rescue - (Update: Now MOT'd!)
Moderator: martauto
Brilliant thread, keep going.
webmaster@e30zone.net
Small update to say I've got the panels, but I've not got them out the van yet as the weather has been rubbish and my garage is now a pile of 100 boxes and parts.
Today is dry so there may be an update tonight. I did get stuck when building my first strut, trying to figure out the order of things:
Originally it just had the sleeves (on the left) and bump stops. The new bump stops are identical replacements, but instead of sleeves the kit I bought has gaiters.
Spent ages messing about putting the spring compressors back off/on, and the spring plate, trying to find an order, but it would only fit all 3 bits like this:
Which when compressed, sometimes made the gaiter not sit on the bump stop properly and dig in to it. I decided to go with original and I've ditched the new gaiters, and just using the new bump stops + cleaned up tubes, the same as it was when I found it:
Should be fine. Also I didn't have the type of spanner that aids doing up the complicated bit at the top, so I instead just held the damper rod with some adjustable pliers with rubber in between them, then gave the nyloc nut a burst from the rattle gun and the job was done in 2-3 seconds.
Will do a proper write up tonight or once I get a bit more done.
Today is dry so there may be an update tonight. I did get stuck when building my first strut, trying to figure out the order of things:
Originally it just had the sleeves (on the left) and bump stops. The new bump stops are identical replacements, but instead of sleeves the kit I bought has gaiters.
Spent ages messing about putting the spring compressors back off/on, and the spring plate, trying to find an order, but it would only fit all 3 bits like this:
Which when compressed, sometimes made the gaiter not sit on the bump stop properly and dig in to it. I decided to go with original and I've ditched the new gaiters, and just using the new bump stops + cleaned up tubes, the same as it was when I found it:
Should be fine. Also I didn't have the type of spanner that aids doing up the complicated bit at the top, so I instead just held the damper rod with some adjustable pliers with rubber in between them, then gave the nyloc nut a burst from the rattle gun and the job was done in 2-3 seconds.
Will do a proper write up tonight or once I get a bit more done.
The welder I'm using has 6 settings, but it's a 180w welder and quite a powerful thing, also the difference between the wire speed settings is quite a lot. The problem with running a hotter setting is it's then very, VERY quick to blow holes, and holes add hours of work to patching. What's working for me is a power setting of 1/6, wire speed about 2.5ish, and spot welding until I've built up a line over time - with lots of air gun after each tack to stop warping/risk of holes. It's a slow process, but it gets the job done.Sanchez wrote: ↑Thu Oct 10, 2019 8:21 amAs ever loving the updates.
I’m learning about welding as I go too and was thinking if your welder was hotter setting and slower wire feed would the metal melt into the gap better so not so raised and less grinding?
I’ve had some nice welds and poor welds on the same setting.
For the edges of the floor repairs, where they met the wall of the car, that metal was a bit thicker so I used a power setting of 2/6 there and kind of started the spot on the thicker metal before then quickly pushing it down on to the thinner stuff to join it without putting loads of heat in to it. If I use a setting of 2/6 anywhere else, even with wire speed on 1-2, it still occasionally pops a hole.
One other thing to note is I'm running .8mm wire now, as this machine came with a full reel of it - and it uses the big drum type reels, not the tiny hobby ones I have in 0.6mm (which I think has probably rusted anyway now).
I think welding proper stuff must be a fun thing to learn and do, but welding very thin sheet metal at all angles on a wet drive way can go away as fast as possible.
Enough pics taken for an update...
I hate working with spring compressors, but needs must.
You'll notice in this pic I forgot the bumpstop + sleeve, so that had to be redone, which has been a recurring theme throughout this build.
Dirty washers
Clean washers + a regreased cup washer
The order is spring cup, big washer, cup washer facing upwards, top mount, little washer, locking nut.
At this stage, various wiki guides and bits tell you how to use many combinations of special spanners (that I don't own) through odd sockets (that I don't own) and loads of faff. I opted for a more simple approach, first I used my genius to invent a new tool:
Get everything ready, then squeeze the very top of the damper, put the nut on, get your massive torque/rattle gun and give it a couple of blasts. 5 seconds later, job done.
With that done, time to focus on the bottom half of the struts. The dust cups that didn't fit before now here, in the correct size, so they get a bit of copper slip to make sure these ones don't need a dremel for removal later in life:
At this point I needed to fit the backing plates, but all the original bolts were blobs of rounded rust. Turns out M6 bolts fit the thread perfect:
But sadly, two of the bolts don't go all the way through the strut body, so the bolts needed to be cut down:
Threads cleaned up:
And then the backing plate fixed in place, and hub pushed in place, with the nut loosely put on:
Next come the discs, which have a copper slipped retaining screw:
Unfortunately, in the mess of my garage, I've lost one of these and starting to think it might have got chucked as it was in a big baggy on its own. Trying to source a replacement somehow...
Discs on, time to rebuild the brakes. New seals are a doddle to push in place:
but getting the piston through the seal can be tricky. I don't know how you would manage with an air gun, very glad I borrowed the compressor off my mate! With the piston pushed against the boot, ensure the bleed nipple is closed, put some spanners the right gap size in the way, then give it a full blast of air whilst you wiggle the piston about. Eventually the boot will pop round the piston.
As the pads are brand new, the piston needs to be pushed in as far as it will go. This probably isn't the best method, but with a bit of rubber to protect the back of the piston, the vice (and the brake fluid I'd soaked the piston in) soon sorted it:
Red rubber grease on the sliding pins:
And the first half of the calliper is bolted up, with the pads in place (pad wear sensor on the N/S):
All bolted up:
Repeat all the above faffery x2, throw in a lot of money/time, and you end up with these:
Can't wait to get them on the bloody car.
In order to do that, the wishbones need the lollipops whacking on:
Which takes a surprising amount of whacking. At this point I unboxed the track rod ends and realised I'd made a mistake, which I thought I'd document in case it stops anyone making the same:
One of them is correct (the one with the collar for the gaiter), the other is for the steering damper version. Have messaged the seller to sort out swapping for a copy of the other. Unfortunately I just searched eBay for the part number, saw a listing for a pair of them and presumed they'd both be the same part number - whoops.
Decided I want to weld the wings before the new suspension/steering goes on to save them getting angle grinded near or spattered with weld. So, despite the rain, decided to just get on with it:
Knocked the circle out with a hammer easily as it's just tacked in 3 places. After some deliberating with a pen, and checking where the chassis rail joined, I decided to do it in two patches - this is another recurring theme...
First, some cardboard aided design, which led to me roughly shaping a piece of metal on the bench, which somehow turned out to be almost bang on:
As it was lightly raining (power leads in the car, towel over the welder, super safe) I didn't take many pictures of the process, and by now I think everyone gets the gist. I tacked that piece in, then mocked up a 2nd smaller patch:
After an hour or so I arrived at this point:
Like the floor panels, it's not pretty, and I didn't take too much care in how it'll look when done, as long as it's solid and welded all the way through - which it has. I also did the weld again underneath along the bit where it meets the wheel arch.
The rain was a bit much at this point, so when it's dry I'll grind it all back, cut + weld the circle piece I knocked out back in, then get it all sealed.
Can't beat an English driveway project...
That's it for now, priorities are finish front bay/wing area welding so I can get the wings/suspension/steering/wheels on.
Slight tarty bit whilst I was indoors, new leather gear gaiter is loosely fitted, ready for glue + bulldog clips:
Few more big blocking bits to do (wings, sills), then a landslide of stuff can happen to get the interior back in, wheels on, engine breathing, lights + grill fitted, and so on - that's going to feel sweet.
I hate working with spring compressors, but needs must.
You'll notice in this pic I forgot the bumpstop + sleeve, so that had to be redone, which has been a recurring theme throughout this build.
Dirty washers
Clean washers + a regreased cup washer
The order is spring cup, big washer, cup washer facing upwards, top mount, little washer, locking nut.
At this stage, various wiki guides and bits tell you how to use many combinations of special spanners (that I don't own) through odd sockets (that I don't own) and loads of faff. I opted for a more simple approach, first I used my genius to invent a new tool:
Get everything ready, then squeeze the very top of the damper, put the nut on, get your massive torque/rattle gun and give it a couple of blasts. 5 seconds later, job done.
With that done, time to focus on the bottom half of the struts. The dust cups that didn't fit before now here, in the correct size, so they get a bit of copper slip to make sure these ones don't need a dremel for removal later in life:
At this point I needed to fit the backing plates, but all the original bolts were blobs of rounded rust. Turns out M6 bolts fit the thread perfect:
But sadly, two of the bolts don't go all the way through the strut body, so the bolts needed to be cut down:
Threads cleaned up:
And then the backing plate fixed in place, and hub pushed in place, with the nut loosely put on:
Next come the discs, which have a copper slipped retaining screw:
Unfortunately, in the mess of my garage, I've lost one of these and starting to think it might have got chucked as it was in a big baggy on its own. Trying to source a replacement somehow...
Discs on, time to rebuild the brakes. New seals are a doddle to push in place:
but getting the piston through the seal can be tricky. I don't know how you would manage with an air gun, very glad I borrowed the compressor off my mate! With the piston pushed against the boot, ensure the bleed nipple is closed, put some spanners the right gap size in the way, then give it a full blast of air whilst you wiggle the piston about. Eventually the boot will pop round the piston.
As the pads are brand new, the piston needs to be pushed in as far as it will go. This probably isn't the best method, but with a bit of rubber to protect the back of the piston, the vice (and the brake fluid I'd soaked the piston in) soon sorted it:
Red rubber grease on the sliding pins:
And the first half of the calliper is bolted up, with the pads in place (pad wear sensor on the N/S):
All bolted up:
Repeat all the above faffery x2, throw in a lot of money/time, and you end up with these:
Can't wait to get them on the bloody car.
In order to do that, the wishbones need the lollipops whacking on:
Which takes a surprising amount of whacking. At this point I unboxed the track rod ends and realised I'd made a mistake, which I thought I'd document in case it stops anyone making the same:
One of them is correct (the one with the collar for the gaiter), the other is for the steering damper version. Have messaged the seller to sort out swapping for a copy of the other. Unfortunately I just searched eBay for the part number, saw a listing for a pair of them and presumed they'd both be the same part number - whoops.
Decided I want to weld the wings before the new suspension/steering goes on to save them getting angle grinded near or spattered with weld. So, despite the rain, decided to just get on with it:
Knocked the circle out with a hammer easily as it's just tacked in 3 places. After some deliberating with a pen, and checking where the chassis rail joined, I decided to do it in two patches - this is another recurring theme...
First, some cardboard aided design, which led to me roughly shaping a piece of metal on the bench, which somehow turned out to be almost bang on:
As it was lightly raining (power leads in the car, towel over the welder, super safe) I didn't take many pictures of the process, and by now I think everyone gets the gist. I tacked that piece in, then mocked up a 2nd smaller patch:
After an hour or so I arrived at this point:
Like the floor panels, it's not pretty, and I didn't take too much care in how it'll look when done, as long as it's solid and welded all the way through - which it has. I also did the weld again underneath along the bit where it meets the wheel arch.
The rain was a bit much at this point, so when it's dry I'll grind it all back, cut + weld the circle piece I knocked out back in, then get it all sealed.
Can't beat an English driveway project...
That's it for now, priorities are finish front bay/wing area welding so I can get the wings/suspension/steering/wheels on.
Slight tarty bit whilst I was indoors, new leather gear gaiter is loosely fitted, ready for glue + bulldog clips:
Few more big blocking bits to do (wings, sills), then a landslide of stuff can happen to get the interior back in, wheels on, engine breathing, lights + grill fitted, and so on - that's going to feel sweet.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
What's the red stuff you're using as a lubricant? It's important that a temporary lubricant is used - one that dries out and ceases to lubricate, and that the lollipops are at the correct angle before this happens.
The pin must not remove relative to the centre of the bush when in use, otherwise rapid wear will take place and soon ruin your nice new bushes.
Suspension movement is taken up by the rubber of the bush flexing - a frictionless bearing.
Guess I'll wipe that off then! I copied from another YouTube video which used some red rubber grease on a wishbone lollipop mount. Any recommended brands/stuff for something temporary? Only done that one side so far.Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Tue Oct 15, 2019 7:08 pmWhat's the red stuff you're using as a lubricant? It's important that a temporary lubricant is used - one that dries out and ceases to lubricate, and that the lollipops are at the correct angle before this happens.
Small update to say after jiggling/cleaning all the earth points, throwing away some old bulbs, reseating a few things - the indicators now work as expected. I still swapped the flasher relay as I preferred the sound of the new one to the loud tinny old one.
Last edited by iDemonix on Tue Oct 15, 2019 7:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Just spotted that the zone wiki recommends copper, I've got that, use that instead?
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... pop_Bushes
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... pop_Bushes
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boiliebasher
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 269
- Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:00 pm
[quote=iDemonix post_id=2961820 time=1571165184 user_id=61303]
Just spotted that the zone wiki recommends copper, I've got that, use that instead?
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... pop_Bushes
[/quote]
The Wkiguide did mention not use cooper grease if you are using rubber bushes though...
I don't know if it was the right thing to do or not, but when I did my lollipop bushes, I used washing up liquid as I read somewhere that's the next best (and cheapest!) thing to use other than the approved BMW adhesive/ lubricant stuff. It's supposed to dry off after a while once everything is set in place rather than act as a semi permanent lubricant like cooper grease. Again I really dont know if that was that right thing to do, others may hopefully chime in and shed some more light on the subject
Just spotted that the zone wiki recommends copper, I've got that, use that instead?
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... pop_Bushes
[/quote]
The Wkiguide did mention not use cooper grease if you are using rubber bushes though...
I don't know if it was the right thing to do or not, but when I did my lollipop bushes, I used washing up liquid as I read somewhere that's the next best (and cheapest!) thing to use other than the approved BMW adhesive/ lubricant stuff. It's supposed to dry off after a while once everything is set in place rather than act as a semi permanent lubricant like cooper grease. Again I really dont know if that was that right thing to do, others may hopefully chime in and shed some more light on the subject
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boiliebasher
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 269
- Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:00 pm
Keep up the great work by the way, I'm following with great interest!
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Washing up liquid with a little bit of water. The lollipops must be at the correct angle, so that the bushes are not stressed at normal ride height. Either carefully measure the angle with the wheels on the ground before you dismantle the suspension, or (the best way) fit the control arms to the car and push the bushes on in situ, then drop the car on the ground immediately after. wedge a block of wood between the back of the control arm and the subframe/chassis rails, and twist the lollipops onto the (cleaned) pins.
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boiliebasher
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 269
- Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:00 pm
[quote=Brianmoooore post_id=2961823 time=1571166753 user_id=318] (the best way) fit the control arms to the car and push the bushes on in situ, then drop the car on the ground immediately after. wedge a block of wood between the back of the control arm and the subframe/chassis rails, and twist the lollipops onto the (cleaned) pins.
[/quote]
This is pretty much what I done. I rigged up a make shift press to get the lollipop bushes on and off easier then dropped the car down straight away afterwards. Left it overnight then done the other side the following day or so afterwards
[/quote]
This is pretty much what I done. I rigged up a make shift press to get the lollipop bushes on and off easier then dropped the car down straight away afterwards. Left it overnight then done the other side the following day or so afterwards
Cheers for the advice all, I'll whip the grease off that one and use soap/water.
I get what you're saying about the bushes, obviously I didn't measure before so once the new track/tie rod arrives (prob going to be next week at least) I'll assemble everything, drop it on the ground, and then make adjustments.
I get what you're saying about the bushes, obviously I didn't measure before so once the new track/tie rod arrives (prob going to be next week at least) I'll assemble everything, drop it on the ground, and then make adjustments.
Right, suppose it's time for an update of progress, which has been hampered by 5 days of rain in the last 7 days...
The O/S wing was finished and sealed:
With that drying, set about getting the ARB fitted with the new rubbers, which turned out to be impossible...
Some gentle persuasion...
And she's on, with the wishbone loosely in place:
Lollipop bolts get a clean, also noticed they have a weird indentation in the thread...
Drop link fitted, and the gaiter on the tie rod (still waiting on the other one to arrive...)
Eek! Rust on brand new expensive Brembo parts, they get a bag wrapped round them for now...
Just to give a comparison, here's an image from earlier on in the thread, and the newly completed article:
Speaking of old pictures, I still need to find some threaded bolts/screws that fit the top hat nuts, then weld them to the car...
Other odd jobs coming up, the headlights are completely seized on every bolt. I'd like to restore these and paint the rings, polish the glass etc in the future, but for now I need an MOT before it's snowing so I'm going to try and disassemble, strip the rust off the threads, and see if they'll work well enough for now.
Think it might be time for a new intake boot
Time to start on the N/S wing.
Turns out the ABS unit can be pushed aside without damaging the copper pipes enough for the work:
No going back...
One... two...
Third time's the f*cking charm...
That bit done, on to the next:
Healthy enough penetration both sides and no gaps
Could have spent more time smoothing it but it's getting seam sealered and it's hidden anyway
That leaves this bit, which took about 20 mins to knock a patch up for. When it comes to patchwork and welding, I definitely agree with the old adage that it doesn't get easier, you just get faster...
Not pretty, also before the abuse, this is before I finished the bottom of the pic, then ground it back, and re-did a couple of bits. Looked bang on underneath, minus 1 or 2 bits which I did from underneath too.
Lathered in sealer, BMW style:
I'm doing less pics of the welding now, like all the grinding back, re-welding, re-grinding, smoothing nicely, etc, as there's a lot of these pics in the thread already and I think people might get bored of seeing metal being joined...
So, that's the O/S and N/S bay/wing bits both patched. I also knocked up a horn bracket:
Which was plug welded on, and I forgot to take a pic of.
This will help hold the new cheap horns, which I probably should have just checked if BMW still sold, oh well. These were less than a tenner, and I'll see how they sound on the car shortly. They won't take the OEM connector but I'll try avoid cutting the original with something semi-frankenstein.
Got one of the wings out the van I purchased:
Luckily it's just surface, and the Dremel deals with it
You'll notice the new wings have the holes for the body kit sill thing, whatever it's called, but I hate the look of them and have no plans of ever fitting one. As I need an MOT as a priority, these are just going to get stonechipped on the back, I'm going to stonechip black the lower section (like my other ones), as otherwise it'll look odd, and that section needs repainting on both new wings anyway. I'll leave the holes for now, but in future might take the wings off and patch/filler them.
Light ran out, so a quick final job of keying/primering the first grill piece
See how it looks with paint on tomorrow then do the other side.
Current status is I need the new track rod to arrive, then will do suspension/steering/brakes on the N/S too. I need to somehow separate the rubber lines from the copper lines to get my new braided items on, won't replace the copper lines until post-MOT next year if I can avoid it. Body work wise I need to weld a bit or two to get the wings on (lower mounts), then figure out the bolt/nut situation for the inner arch liner and various plastic/rubber trim pieces.
Tempted to start the car up tomorrow and try and diagnose why the heater doesn't work. Can anyone confirm whether the heater should work with the engine stopped? Not sure whether it should or not on these cars, this one didn't work on any setting with the car running if I recall, it just makes a clicking noise (there's a video on an early page of this thread).
I'm starting to feel like I'm really getting somewhere now, and as I put money aside for a welder I've now not spent (thanks to borrowing one instead), I've treated myself to one of these, which should make the remaining work a lot easier than spanners/wrenches:
Last bit, can anyone remind me of what connector is for what to save me figuring it out tomorrow? Two white, two gray, and then two different types of 2 pin connectors.
Few errands tomorrow, but hopefully a few more hours on it where I can...
The O/S wing was finished and sealed:
With that drying, set about getting the ARB fitted with the new rubbers, which turned out to be impossible...
Some gentle persuasion...
And she's on, with the wishbone loosely in place:
Lollipop bolts get a clean, also noticed they have a weird indentation in the thread...
Drop link fitted, and the gaiter on the tie rod (still waiting on the other one to arrive...)
Eek! Rust on brand new expensive Brembo parts, they get a bag wrapped round them for now...
Just to give a comparison, here's an image from earlier on in the thread, and the newly completed article:
Speaking of old pictures, I still need to find some threaded bolts/screws that fit the top hat nuts, then weld them to the car...
Other odd jobs coming up, the headlights are completely seized on every bolt. I'd like to restore these and paint the rings, polish the glass etc in the future, but for now I need an MOT before it's snowing so I'm going to try and disassemble, strip the rust off the threads, and see if they'll work well enough for now.
Think it might be time for a new intake boot
Time to start on the N/S wing.
Turns out the ABS unit can be pushed aside without damaging the copper pipes enough for the work:
No going back...
One... two...
Third time's the f*cking charm...
That bit done, on to the next:
Healthy enough penetration both sides and no gaps
Could have spent more time smoothing it but it's getting seam sealered and it's hidden anyway
That leaves this bit, which took about 20 mins to knock a patch up for. When it comes to patchwork and welding, I definitely agree with the old adage that it doesn't get easier, you just get faster...
Not pretty, also before the abuse, this is before I finished the bottom of the pic, then ground it back, and re-did a couple of bits. Looked bang on underneath, minus 1 or 2 bits which I did from underneath too.
Lathered in sealer, BMW style:
I'm doing less pics of the welding now, like all the grinding back, re-welding, re-grinding, smoothing nicely, etc, as there's a lot of these pics in the thread already and I think people might get bored of seeing metal being joined...
So, that's the O/S and N/S bay/wing bits both patched. I also knocked up a horn bracket:
Which was plug welded on, and I forgot to take a pic of.
This will help hold the new cheap horns, which I probably should have just checked if BMW still sold, oh well. These were less than a tenner, and I'll see how they sound on the car shortly. They won't take the OEM connector but I'll try avoid cutting the original with something semi-frankenstein.
Got one of the wings out the van I purchased:
Luckily it's just surface, and the Dremel deals with it
You'll notice the new wings have the holes for the body kit sill thing, whatever it's called, but I hate the look of them and have no plans of ever fitting one. As I need an MOT as a priority, these are just going to get stonechipped on the back, I'm going to stonechip black the lower section (like my other ones), as otherwise it'll look odd, and that section needs repainting on both new wings anyway. I'll leave the holes for now, but in future might take the wings off and patch/filler them.
Light ran out, so a quick final job of keying/primering the first grill piece
See how it looks with paint on tomorrow then do the other side.
Current status is I need the new track rod to arrive, then will do suspension/steering/brakes on the N/S too. I need to somehow separate the rubber lines from the copper lines to get my new braided items on, won't replace the copper lines until post-MOT next year if I can avoid it. Body work wise I need to weld a bit or two to get the wings on (lower mounts), then figure out the bolt/nut situation for the inner arch liner and various plastic/rubber trim pieces.
Tempted to start the car up tomorrow and try and diagnose why the heater doesn't work. Can anyone confirm whether the heater should work with the engine stopped? Not sure whether it should or not on these cars, this one didn't work on any setting with the car running if I recall, it just makes a clicking noise (there's a video on an early page of this thread).
I'm starting to feel like I'm really getting somewhere now, and as I put money aside for a welder I've now not spent (thanks to borrowing one instead), I've treated myself to one of these, which should make the remaining work a lot easier than spanners/wrenches:
Last bit, can anyone remind me of what connector is for what to save me figuring it out tomorrow? Two white, two gray, and then two different types of 2 pin connectors.
Few errands tomorrow, but hopefully a few more hours on it where I can...
Few bits done...
ABS area finished, and unit put back
Interior going back in, console + buttons all wired up and working
Seats placed loosely in for now, don't want to fasten them and the carpet in place until sills are done, as I can spray the inside of the sills from inside the car.
I need to sort the headlights but struggling to find parts, bought a set of 3D printed parts for one side to test, but only one bit fit, the rest doesn't. Figure this one later...
Have to figure them before the MOT though, as they're pointing all over the shop and the adjusters don't work:
One of the wings I bought is ok, one is a bit shit but better than what I had. First, the better one gets the rust wire wheeled off, and then primer + stonechip
The eagle eyed will spot that one of the lower mount bits is missing, this appears to be the same on both wings. If I had time I'd weld a small patch on each, but I don't have time, plus the car only has 1 hole at the lower mount points. I'll just get away with 1 for now, and next year I'll either sort my original wings and put them on, or fix these ones.
Dirt cleaned off the inner lip and some waxoyl
Speaking of the wing area, I have a broken piece of trim annoyingly. If anyone has one for sale please let me know...
The fan doesn't look great, but I'm going to stick it on the engine and do the newspaper test, if it passes then it can stay for now, if not I'll get a new viscous coupling/clutch.
Sorry for the crap pic, had gloves on and it was cold/windy so I didn't notice it looked shit, but I found a wood screw in my garage that the BMW top hat nuts sit on nicely, so like a French revolutionist I cut it's head off, and then tacked it on.
Lower panel attached:
Once the wing is dry inside, I decided to paint the lower bit on the outside. It has silver stone chip and some deep gouges, but I'm really desperate to get an MOT before it's freezing cold, so looks aren't important for now:
Rough test fit, this was before I did the bolts up so panel gap is a little off. Once bolted the gap isn't amazing, but I'd like to maybe put the original ones back on next year if I can repair them.
Now the painting table is free, can do the other grille:
In some goodies news, this arrived, and is f*cking incredible:
Part of me does wish I got the 1/2" version, but I have a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter so it's fine.
Makes things like rattling the wheel nut round until the tab lines up a piece of cake:
No more putting scaffolding poles over extension bars and snapping things.
This screw hasn't bloody showed up, and I'm a bit lost trying to find a replacement...
Suspension is on both sides now, and a sprits of soapy water was used on the lollipops.
I managed to get the blower motor revealed, one of the covers has a broken tab so might try and find one of them from someone breaking. After some pushing, the motor freed up and span. It then stopped, made the pinging noise where it'd tripped, then span slower, until it eventually it stopped. I removed it, soaked it in many things and applied power to it, but it's very difficult to turn and I think it's just replacement time:
https://i.imgur.com/CYilFon.mp4
Popped one of these off, sadly there's a missing metal clip on one bit, need to find someone breaking again...
Need to figure out the other side...
Bit of light sanding, and the next patient is in the bargain bucket paint shop
And that's all for now. I need to tackle the sills but I'm putting it off as they're visible, and I can't hide with seam sealer. Hoping for a dry weekend and that might give me enough time to maybe cut, weld, and finish the drivers side, then it's the proper nasty side to do. Once that's done though, the front of the car is pretty much passable for now, and I can put it back on the ground, lift the rear, and start sorting. Hoping to just refresh the brake callipers, change the hubs, and weld bits like the boot pockets. If I can avoid any need to drop the fuel tank, then great. If the bushes will pass an MOT, then they can stay until Spring.
Once the sills are done then I'll feel like I'm heading towards the home straight...
ABS area finished, and unit put back
Interior going back in, console + buttons all wired up and working
Seats placed loosely in for now, don't want to fasten them and the carpet in place until sills are done, as I can spray the inside of the sills from inside the car.
I need to sort the headlights but struggling to find parts, bought a set of 3D printed parts for one side to test, but only one bit fit, the rest doesn't. Figure this one later...
Have to figure them before the MOT though, as they're pointing all over the shop and the adjusters don't work:
One of the wings I bought is ok, one is a bit shit but better than what I had. First, the better one gets the rust wire wheeled off, and then primer + stonechip
The eagle eyed will spot that one of the lower mount bits is missing, this appears to be the same on both wings. If I had time I'd weld a small patch on each, but I don't have time, plus the car only has 1 hole at the lower mount points. I'll just get away with 1 for now, and next year I'll either sort my original wings and put them on, or fix these ones.
Dirt cleaned off the inner lip and some waxoyl
Speaking of the wing area, I have a broken piece of trim annoyingly. If anyone has one for sale please let me know...
The fan doesn't look great, but I'm going to stick it on the engine and do the newspaper test, if it passes then it can stay for now, if not I'll get a new viscous coupling/clutch.
Sorry for the crap pic, had gloves on and it was cold/windy so I didn't notice it looked shit, but I found a wood screw in my garage that the BMW top hat nuts sit on nicely, so like a French revolutionist I cut it's head off, and then tacked it on.
Lower panel attached:
Once the wing is dry inside, I decided to paint the lower bit on the outside. It has silver stone chip and some deep gouges, but I'm really desperate to get an MOT before it's freezing cold, so looks aren't important for now:
Rough test fit, this was before I did the bolts up so panel gap is a little off. Once bolted the gap isn't amazing, but I'd like to maybe put the original ones back on next year if I can repair them.
Now the painting table is free, can do the other grille:
In some goodies news, this arrived, and is f*cking incredible:
Part of me does wish I got the 1/2" version, but I have a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter so it's fine.
Makes things like rattling the wheel nut round until the tab lines up a piece of cake:
No more putting scaffolding poles over extension bars and snapping things.
This screw hasn't bloody showed up, and I'm a bit lost trying to find a replacement...
Suspension is on both sides now, and a sprits of soapy water was used on the lollipops.
I managed to get the blower motor revealed, one of the covers has a broken tab so might try and find one of them from someone breaking. After some pushing, the motor freed up and span. It then stopped, made the pinging noise where it'd tripped, then span slower, until it eventually it stopped. I removed it, soaked it in many things and applied power to it, but it's very difficult to turn and I think it's just replacement time:
https://i.imgur.com/CYilFon.mp4
Popped one of these off, sadly there's a missing metal clip on one bit, need to find someone breaking again...
Need to figure out the other side...
Bit of light sanding, and the next patient is in the bargain bucket paint shop
And that's all for now. I need to tackle the sills but I'm putting it off as they're visible, and I can't hide with seam sealer. Hoping for a dry weekend and that might give me enough time to maybe cut, weld, and finish the drivers side, then it's the proper nasty side to do. Once that's done though, the front of the car is pretty much passable for now, and I can put it back on the ground, lift the rear, and start sorting. Hoping to just refresh the brake callipers, change the hubs, and weld bits like the boot pockets. If I can avoid any need to drop the fuel tank, then great. If the bushes will pass an MOT, then they can stay until Spring.
Once the sills are done then I'll feel like I'm heading towards the home straight...
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rix313
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I've enjoyed looking through this thread this morning. I really want to treat my front struts to the same treatment as you have. Which eccentric bushes have you used?
A couple of things from your last post. You can buy the disc retaining screws on eBay although in my opinion they are chuffing expensive for what they are www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231268503085. Also you can buy the headlight adjusting kits from Hella, last time I had a quote it was less than a tenner.
A couple of things from your last post. You can buy the disc retaining screws on eBay although in my opinion they are chuffing expensive for what they are www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231268503085. Also you can buy the headlight adjusting kits from Hella, last time I had a quote it was less than a tenner.
Cheers, I think I'll just buy that bolt as I can't really get on without it! Interesting about Hella, I will definitely look in to that as I'd love to find a complete kit.rix313 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2019 9:34 amI've enjoyed looking through this thread this morning. I really want to treat my front struts to the same treatment as you have. Which eccentric bushes have you used?
A couple of things from your last post. You can buy the disc retaining screws on eBay although in my opinion they are chuffing expensive for what they are www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231268503085. Also you can buy the headlight adjusting kits from Hella, last time I had a quote it was less than a tenner.
The eccentric bushes I used are Lemforder.
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Brianmoooore
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The only function of that bolt is to keep the holes in the disc lined up with the bolt holes in the hub when the wheel is off. Once the wheels are on, it has no function whatsoever, so no problem in running without it.
Also, the same bolt is used on several newer BMW models, so should be readily available from a dealer.
Also, the same bolt is used on several newer BMW models, so should be readily available from a dealer.
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Brianmoooore
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It's a plain steel shaft in a porous bronze bearing, so about the only thing that can be making it stiff is rust on the shaft. Persist with a good rust releasing fluid, and I'm sure it'll free up. Let the releasing fluid evaporate, give the bearings plenty of light oil, and it'll be good for another thirty years.iDemonix wrote: ↑Wed Oct 23, 2019 11:56 pm
I removed it, soaked it in many things and applied power to it, but it's very difficult to turn and I think it's just replacement time:
https://i.imgur.com/CYilFon.mp4
Yeah I know it's just a convenience bolt, but it's one of those things that will properly annoy me if I don't sort. And I'll definitely forget when I take the wheel off and the disc drops on to the drive way.Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2019 6:09 pmThe only function of that bolt is to keep the holes in the disc lined up with the bolt holes in the hub when the wheel is off. Once the wheels are on, it has no function whatsoever, so no problem in running without it.
Also, the same bolt is used on several newer BMW models, so should be readily available from a dealer.
I'll give it another soak, it's very difficult to get in with the dremel body to try and blitz it off. If it starts coming free I might persist, if not, time is pressing and it can go on a shelf for restoring another day - like the old wings.Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2019 6:58 pmIt's a plain steel shaft in a porous bronze bearing, so about the only thing that can be making it stiff is rust on the shaft. Persist with a good rust releasing fluid, and I'm sure it'll free up. Let the releasing fluid evaporate, give the bearings plenty of light oil, and it'll be good for another thirty years.iDemonix wrote: ↑Wed Oct 23, 2019 11:56 pm
I removed it, soaked it in many things and applied power to it, but it's very difficult to turn and I think it's just replacement time:
https://i.imgur.com/CYilFon.mp4
Painted the scuttle n/s grill tonight, no pic, try and get the other one off and painted and that's a mini easy job done.
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Brianmoooore
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rix313
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Edit: resistor.Brianmoooore wrote: ↑Fri Oct 25, 2019 2:29 pmNo relay associated with the heater fan, other than one of the unloader relays.
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Brianmoooore
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I presume you mean the speed adjusting resistor? If you continue to use a fan motor that is partially seized, it will draw excess current and quite quickly destroy the resistor pack. That's why you should all be removing your heater motors and lubricating them before they show signs of giving trouble.
Right, the blower soaked for hours, then I blasted it with air, a wire brush, a toothbrush, some more releaser, another scrub and dry, and then some GT85. I can't really get it much cleaner or more lubricated without taking it apart which looks like a one way mission.
After putting it loosely back in the car, plugging it in and trying it on 4 - it spins. It doesn't seem that fast, but it seems fairly consistent. If I put it on 3, the same. However, if I put it on 2, or 1, it doesn't turn the blower, and something starts glowing (click it, it's a video):
(apologies for shit phone quality, and it being dark, although it does help highlight the problem I might not have spotted in the day):
Can anyone shed some light? Obviously turned it off immediately as I'm not sure what's making that happen and whether or not it's a fire hazard. I do think I'll just scour eBay/breakers for a E30 or Z4 blower, but keen to know what's going on in that video.
After putting it loosely back in the car, plugging it in and trying it on 4 - it spins. It doesn't seem that fast, but it seems fairly consistent. If I put it on 3, the same. However, if I put it on 2, or 1, it doesn't turn the blower, and something starts glowing (click it, it's a video):
(apologies for shit phone quality, and it being dark, although it does help highlight the problem I might not have spotted in the day):
Can anyone shed some light? Obviously turned it off immediately as I'm not sure what's making that happen and whether or not it's a fire hazard. I do think I'll just scour eBay/breakers for a E30 or Z4 blower, but keen to know what's going on in that video.
Well if there's a bonus to the rain, it softened up whatever this was enough to scratch it off:
Still a big scratch beneath it, oh well.
After figuring out you pop the plastic tab covering the nut on the wiper arm, this came free:
and gives a good opportunity to clear all the crap out
More rain, more painting
The finished items, not perfect, but done in a hurry and better than they were:
With some daylight, it's that spring inside there (or something) that was glowing when the fan was stuck. Still intrigued if anyone knows...
New blower motor has been ordered, should be here Wednesday.
Anyway, it'd be nice to make it look more like a car, so time to tackle the bad wing, here's a picture of some of it:
After brushing and snipping out the completely rotten bits, I'm left with this:
It's not pretty at all, and if I ran a flapper wheel against it I think it'd look like swiss cheese, but it's better than the wings I had where the bottom section is non-existent.
The plan is just to sand it back and clean it, maybe some kurust, then just layer it up in epoxy primer + stone chip. It doesn't have to look very pretty, and just needs to last until I can properly repair my old wings.
This bit will have to have some crap silver metallic aerosol or something for now:
Also on the list of things to paint is the valance. I did think about leaving it silver, and really the car is meant to be entirely silver, but someone decided to make the bottom half of this one black at some point, and it's easier to go with it - plus it is growing on me a bit.
Appears to possibly be silver stone chip painted over black stone chip...
Masked up for a clean, light sand, and new stone chip.
First layer on to dry
Whilst that's drying, time to finally unbox the new hoses:
Things weren't so bad on the O/S and I managed to mate it up to the original coupling:
On the N/S, not so much...
I spent all day soaking it in releasing fluid and then trying combinations of spanners, then locking pliers, heat, and everything else - but these two bits won't separate. I was hoping to avoid making any brake lines, but the little threaded connector is so rounded now, and the pipe has been bent a bit trying to force it apart, so I'm ordering 10m of copper nickel brake line and a bending tool - at least I can practice on the shortest pipe on the car.
So, no line on the N/S until that arrives and I fabricate a new pipe, but I did get the tie rod gaiters on and cable tied up. Everything is torqued up now, and the missing disc bolt was added to please my OCD:
Trying to remember how all the plastic trim bits go together on the front is giving me a right headache, especially the inner arch and mud flap setup. I can't figure out why the mudflap metal plates have the little bracket part at the bottom, unless it used to hook on to the factory jacking point which no longer exists.
Still need to clean those parts too...
Whilst in that area, the jacking plate spot welds were drilled, but it's proving fun to get out and will need a bit of hammer therapy to straighten it back out once freed:
After giving up on that for a bit, starting to clear the garage of E30 parts and found the throttle cover:
Masking tape remove from the new dry valance:
And loosely placed on the car:
I would have fitted it but I've lost the box of spire clips I bought, and after searching everywhere for hours I've ordered another box...
That's it for now. Sills are the big job I need to do, then the front interior gets bolted/fitted, wings/trim/etc go on. Hoping to sort the headlights this week if I can finally find a kit, I've ordered a Hella kit I was recommended, but after looking at the pics, my plastic bits have 2 lobes and the ones in the pic have 3, so we'll see if they fit...
Oh also, GSF had a sale and happened to sell a fan clutch which came to about £25 with some Bosch wipers for £4 each too, so there's some peace of mind for the cooling.
Still a big scratch beneath it, oh well.
After figuring out you pop the plastic tab covering the nut on the wiper arm, this came free:
and gives a good opportunity to clear all the crap out
More rain, more painting
The finished items, not perfect, but done in a hurry and better than they were:
With some daylight, it's that spring inside there (or something) that was glowing when the fan was stuck. Still intrigued if anyone knows...
New blower motor has been ordered, should be here Wednesday.
Anyway, it'd be nice to make it look more like a car, so time to tackle the bad wing, here's a picture of some of it:
After brushing and snipping out the completely rotten bits, I'm left with this:
It's not pretty at all, and if I ran a flapper wheel against it I think it'd look like swiss cheese, but it's better than the wings I had where the bottom section is non-existent.
The plan is just to sand it back and clean it, maybe some kurust, then just layer it up in epoxy primer + stone chip. It doesn't have to look very pretty, and just needs to last until I can properly repair my old wings.
This bit will have to have some crap silver metallic aerosol or something for now:
Also on the list of things to paint is the valance. I did think about leaving it silver, and really the car is meant to be entirely silver, but someone decided to make the bottom half of this one black at some point, and it's easier to go with it - plus it is growing on me a bit.
Appears to possibly be silver stone chip painted over black stone chip...
Masked up for a clean, light sand, and new stone chip.
First layer on to dry
Whilst that's drying, time to finally unbox the new hoses:
Things weren't so bad on the O/S and I managed to mate it up to the original coupling:
On the N/S, not so much...
I spent all day soaking it in releasing fluid and then trying combinations of spanners, then locking pliers, heat, and everything else - but these two bits won't separate. I was hoping to avoid making any brake lines, but the little threaded connector is so rounded now, and the pipe has been bent a bit trying to force it apart, so I'm ordering 10m of copper nickel brake line and a bending tool - at least I can practice on the shortest pipe on the car.
So, no line on the N/S until that arrives and I fabricate a new pipe, but I did get the tie rod gaiters on and cable tied up. Everything is torqued up now, and the missing disc bolt was added to please my OCD:
Trying to remember how all the plastic trim bits go together on the front is giving me a right headache, especially the inner arch and mud flap setup. I can't figure out why the mudflap metal plates have the little bracket part at the bottom, unless it used to hook on to the factory jacking point which no longer exists.
Still need to clean those parts too...
Whilst in that area, the jacking plate spot welds were drilled, but it's proving fun to get out and will need a bit of hammer therapy to straighten it back out once freed:
After giving up on that for a bit, starting to clear the garage of E30 parts and found the throttle cover:
Masking tape remove from the new dry valance:
And loosely placed on the car:
I would have fitted it but I've lost the box of spire clips I bought, and after searching everywhere for hours I've ordered another box...
That's it for now. Sills are the big job I need to do, then the front interior gets bolted/fitted, wings/trim/etc go on. Hoping to sort the headlights this week if I can finally find a kit, I've ordered a Hella kit I was recommended, but after looking at the pics, my plastic bits have 2 lobes and the ones in the pic have 3, so we'll see if they fit...
Oh also, GSF had a sale and happened to sell a fan clutch which came to about £25 with some Bosch wipers for £4 each too, so there's some peace of mind for the cooling.
Well, add headlight adjusters (for the 2nd time) to the list of things that don't fit. Been putting off buying the official adjusters from BMW at about £13 a screw, but think I'll have to bite that bullet.
New fan clutch fitted
Found an indoor job amidst all the rain:
And with the rain stopped, this finally gets smashed off:
Not too bad at all really
Start cutting:
With all the on and off rain, I didn't take many more pics. Welding was a bit of a pig as I kept blowing holes in the thin bits, but managed to do what I needed and the put the bracket back on, end result is passable:
Doors still need sorting...
In the efforts of less holes in future, I've bought a new 5KG drum of wire for the borrowed welder, .6mm now instead of .8mm.
Complete with new tip/shroud:
The new blower motor arrived, and didn't fit as it was too narrow spacing between the plastic fans:
Buy cheap buy twice... so I bought a Topran one from ECP for not much more than the shit one, and that was bang on. Cheaper jobby returned + refunded, and I now have fans:
Was great to whack it on maximum setting and then inhale all the dust, dirt, and crap that's built up over the last decade...
Right, time for something new - brake lines.
On the N/S I couldn't get the two bits separated for love nor money, so a pair of tin snips aided the removal:
Ear plugs make good temporary stoppers for ABS units.
First attempt at a flare, very slightly burr on the end but not bad:
The template:
New being shaped:
"That'll do"
I have no idea if this is a common idea, but I decided to screw a socket to the bench for stuff that needed a tighter radius bend than my pipe bending tool can do.
Job done.
I was fairly pleased with everything so far, the Dremel looks a bit shocked though:
Next sill next weekend if it's dry...
New fan clutch fitted
Found an indoor job amidst all the rain:
And with the rain stopped, this finally gets smashed off:
Not too bad at all really
Start cutting:
With all the on and off rain, I didn't take many more pics. Welding was a bit of a pig as I kept blowing holes in the thin bits, but managed to do what I needed and the put the bracket back on, end result is passable:
Doors still need sorting...
In the efforts of less holes in future, I've bought a new 5KG drum of wire for the borrowed welder, .6mm now instead of .8mm.
Complete with new tip/shroud:
The new blower motor arrived, and didn't fit as it was too narrow spacing between the plastic fans:
Buy cheap buy twice... so I bought a Topran one from ECP for not much more than the shit one, and that was bang on. Cheaper jobby returned + refunded, and I now have fans:
Was great to whack it on maximum setting and then inhale all the dust, dirt, and crap that's built up over the last decade...
Right, time for something new - brake lines.
On the N/S I couldn't get the two bits separated for love nor money, so a pair of tin snips aided the removal:
Ear plugs make good temporary stoppers for ABS units.
First attempt at a flare, very slightly burr on the end but not bad:
The template:
New being shaped:
"That'll do"
I have no idea if this is a common idea, but I decided to screw a socket to the bench for stuff that needed a tighter radius bend than my pipe bending tool can do.
Job done.
I was fairly pleased with everything so far, the Dremel looks a bit shocked though:
Next sill next weekend if it's dry...
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Brianmoooore
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All good work there, and yes, a socket of the appropriate size is the traditional tool for the tight bending of brake pipes.
I'd recommend renewing the U shaped clips that locate the ends of the brake hoses - they're cheap enough from BMW, and it's a good idea to make up the longest brake pipes first. That way, when you inevitably make a flare that's not quite to your liking, or more likely forget to slide a nut on before you make the flare, the pipe can be cut shorter to make another pipe.
I'd recommend renewing the U shaped clips that locate the ends of the brake hoses - they're cheap enough from BMW, and it's a good idea to make up the longest brake pipes first. That way, when you inevitably make a flare that's not quite to your liking, or more likely forget to slide a nut on before you make the flare, the pipe can be cut shorter to make another pipe.
Yeah I had to cut the clip on the N/S so thought I'd order some replacements whilst the system is awaiting bleeding (will do once the rear callipers are serviced).
Already learnt that lesson, used that first test flare I did for the ABS end, and then flared the other end without the bolt on it. Luckily with stuff like this, or cabling, I always leave a bit extra, and luckily it needed shortening 1cm anyway. Hopefully the only pipe I'll have to replace for now.
Already learnt that lesson, used that first test flare I did for the ABS end, and then flared the other end without the bolt on it. Luckily with stuff like this, or cabling, I always leave a bit extra, and luckily it needed shortening 1cm anyway. Hopefully the only pipe I'll have to replace for now.
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steve_k
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looks really good,
when i replaced all the brake lines on my sport instead of using kunifer i used full lengths of braided steel & stainless (reusable) AN fittings,
seeing my car doesn't have abs i used one length from the 25mm M/C to each front brake,
one short length from the M/C to the adjustable bias valve for the rear then another length from there to the rear T piece then from there one to each caliper,
it was so much easier than trying to flare/bubble the ends of the lines then trying to get the bends in the right place.
but then again i was being lazy.
when i replaced all the brake lines on my sport instead of using kunifer i used full lengths of braided steel & stainless (reusable) AN fittings,
seeing my car doesn't have abs i used one length from the 25mm M/C to each front brake,
one short length from the M/C to the adjustable bias valve for the rear then another length from there to the rear T piece then from there one to each caliper,
it was so much easier than trying to flare/bubble the ends of the lines then trying to get the bends in the right place.
but then again i was being lazy.
if it's got t*ts or wheels it's bound to be trouble...............prove me wrong.
getting oral sex off an ugly person is like rock climbing.....don't look down ;)
getting oral sex off an ugly person is like rock climbing.....don't look down ;)
Good luck! It's not nearly as hard as it seems really, just be careful not to kink it and you're golden.
I found cable tying the new one to the old one as I went helped.