Bob's Design edition Neongreen 318 Cab
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BobIzYaUncle
- E30 Zone Newbie

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Hi all, my name is Bob, I've fairly new to site. Firstly posting up on the look out for an E30 but now I'm set with a 1991 Design edition 318 cabrolet in Neon Green. 1 of only 50 made.
This will be my progress / build page. You can also follow me on Instagram @doomgess_e30
It has had a good quality paint job in the past but underneath is solid with no welding. Has a manual roof which is in excellent condition also.
There is a tapping from top end of engine which I'm suspecting is cam wear, this will be a winter investigation job. The 1st weekend I had her, I took her into work and for waxoyl treatment and total underseal.
She will be dry stored with runs out on dry weekends. My plans are just to perfect it even more to get her up to my standard.
From what I've seen so far, the following will be done.
Front upper roof seal worn
Roof storage compartment seal worn
Cam / tapping noise investigated
Slight engine stutter through revs and idle
Fuel and temp gauge temperamental - DONE
No engine 'check' LIGHT - DOESN'T HAVE ONE
Drivers seat bolster worn
Audio upgrade
Convert aerial to auto electric - DONE
Repair cracked dash
Wheel referb
Suspension overhaul
Rear duff overhaul
Retrofit obc
De-tint windows - DONE
The above is in no particular order and no timescale set. Mostly will be done over winter months so can enjoy throughout rest of the year.
This will be my progress / build page. You can also follow me on Instagram @doomgess_e30
It has had a good quality paint job in the past but underneath is solid with no welding. Has a manual roof which is in excellent condition also.
There is a tapping from top end of engine which I'm suspecting is cam wear, this will be a winter investigation job. The 1st weekend I had her, I took her into work and for waxoyl treatment and total underseal.
She will be dry stored with runs out on dry weekends. My plans are just to perfect it even more to get her up to my standard.
From what I've seen so far, the following will be done.
Front upper roof seal worn
Roof storage compartment seal worn
Cam / tapping noise investigated
Slight engine stutter through revs and idle
Fuel and temp gauge temperamental - DONE
No engine 'check' LIGHT - DOESN'T HAVE ONE
Drivers seat bolster worn
Audio upgrade
Convert aerial to auto electric - DONE
Repair cracked dash
Wheel referb
Suspension overhaul
Rear duff overhaul
Retrofit obc
De-tint windows - DONE
The above is in no particular order and no timescale set. Mostly will be done over winter months so can enjoy throughout rest of the year.
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Last edited by BobIzYaUncle on Wed Dec 09, 2020 10:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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BobIzYaUncle
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- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 11:54 pm
The car is fitted with a period correct pioneer sterio which has a cassette player upfront and a 6 disc changer in the boot. When I select the changer, I get and error message on the display. Upon first looking at the changer I thought 'yeah, it's had it'. The changer wouldnt eject the CD cartridge so guessed there was an internal problem. I remove it from the boot and stripped it down to find a CD stuck preventing the cartridge from being ejected. Approx 2 hours of tinkering and its fully functional and working.
Or so I thought. I found when the changer is in its upright position, it wouldn't eject the cassette but worked OK when set to horizontal. So I've managed to source a slightly newer model which is compatible with the tape deck so that's all sorted.
I've also fitted the automatic electric aerial. Really impressed with it. The height of the aerial is a little high when extented, gonna have a look through the instructions to see if can set it a bit lower, would like it to be level with the roof top. Currently approx 6 inch over the roof height
Here's some before and after pics of the undersealing and waxoyl I've done.
Or so I thought. I found when the changer is in its upright position, it wouldn't eject the cassette but worked OK when set to horizontal. So I've managed to source a slightly newer model which is compatible with the tape deck so that's all sorted.
I've also fitted the automatic electric aerial. Really impressed with it. The height of the aerial is a little high when extented, gonna have a look through the instructions to see if can set it a bit lower, would like it to be level with the roof top. Currently approx 6 inch over the roof height
Here's some before and after pics of the undersealing and waxoyl I've done.
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BobIzYaUncle
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I don't normally mind window tints but on this particular car, I don't think it suits. Bot if a shame as the previous owner had it done just a few weeks before I bought the car but its just not how I want it so they've had to go. I'm sure it's harder to remove than apply!
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BobIzYaUncle
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Next task was sorting out the instrument cluster. The fuel and temperature gauges were very temperamental. I removed the cluster, removed the gauges and cleaned the earth poles on the gauges. Refitted, with all new bulbs (this is where I realised my cluster doesn't have a check light).
Now, it's works great. No more dodgy gauges
Now, it's works great. No more dodgy gauges
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BobIzYaUncle
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Has to have a little detail session in the hood storage compartment. Gave the area a good hoover and clean, followed by a bit of polish on the paint. Looks better in the flesh
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BobIzYaUncle
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Here goes an update on the running issue
1. Done some investigation and found few vac air leaks to fuel regulator and idle control valve. Sorted those, only minor and didn't make much difference.
2. Refitted the old afm and it ran terible. Adjust the potentiometer by 4 Teeth counter clockwise which made the idle smoother but big dip on hard acceleration. So scrapped that and refitted the new one.
3. Checked the C101 connector for water ingress which was OK.
4. Checked the throttle position switch. Confirmed working on open and closed throttle but not on wide open throttle so will need to remove the throttle body to adjust and retry otherwise suspect faulty TPS.
5. Started unplugging and checking other connectors. Found one 3 pin plug under the intake manifold which had really dirty connection on pin 1. See pic.
I've since discovered this is for the injectors.
6. Located the blue temp plug temp sensor under the intake manifold, difficult to access but disconnected it and checked resistance which was around 560ohms when warm. I think the resistance should be lower than this so going to replace anyway as it seems to be the original sensor.
7. Found even on cold start, engine idles around 7 to 800 rpm drops to around 650 to 700 when warm. Not much difference. unplugged the idle speed control valve while the engine was still running (when warm) and with some revs I prevented from stalling and it idled normally without any more intervention! So I then unplugged the afm, again I had to keep revs up for a few seconds but then allowed to idle and it idled normally with the afm and icv unplugged! Is this normal?
8, with engine warm and running, I unplugged the o2 sensor, this slightly changed the engine tone but had no other effect.
9. Whilst engine running, I unplugged ht leads one at a time just to check if any cylinder had a different response than any other but no, they all seems to reponde the same.
10. Reinstalled everything and took for a test drive. Idle seems much smoother, only bit of lump every once in a while but still around 650 to 700rpm. Acceleration still same and hesitant with the slight surging feel, not smooth. I would say its the best now than it had been but still not right.
1. Done some investigation and found few vac air leaks to fuel regulator and idle control valve. Sorted those, only minor and didn't make much difference.
2. Refitted the old afm and it ran terible. Adjust the potentiometer by 4 Teeth counter clockwise which made the idle smoother but big dip on hard acceleration. So scrapped that and refitted the new one.
3. Checked the C101 connector for water ingress which was OK.
4. Checked the throttle position switch. Confirmed working on open and closed throttle but not on wide open throttle so will need to remove the throttle body to adjust and retry otherwise suspect faulty TPS.
5. Started unplugging and checking other connectors. Found one 3 pin plug under the intake manifold which had really dirty connection on pin 1. See pic.
I've since discovered this is for the injectors.
6. Located the blue temp plug temp sensor under the intake manifold, difficult to access but disconnected it and checked resistance which was around 560ohms when warm. I think the resistance should be lower than this so going to replace anyway as it seems to be the original sensor.
7. Found even on cold start, engine idles around 7 to 800 rpm drops to around 650 to 700 when warm. Not much difference. unplugged the idle speed control valve while the engine was still running (when warm) and with some revs I prevented from stalling and it idled normally without any more intervention! So I then unplugged the afm, again I had to keep revs up for a few seconds but then allowed to idle and it idled normally with the afm and icv unplugged! Is this normal?
8, with engine warm and running, I unplugged the o2 sensor, this slightly changed the engine tone but had no other effect.
9. Whilst engine running, I unplugged ht leads one at a time just to check if any cylinder had a different response than any other but no, they all seems to reponde the same.
10. Reinstalled everything and took for a test drive. Idle seems much smoother, only bit of lump every once in a while but still around 650 to 700rpm. Acceleration still same and hesitant with the slight surging feel, not smooth. I would say its the best now than it had been but still not right.
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BobIzYaUncle
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Update,
Carried out some more testing.
Found an air leak from the grommet sealing the ICV to the inlet manifold. Sourced a new one from BMW and fitted it, sorted that.
Whilst engine was idling, I used a screwdriver on the injectors to listen to them operating. Only to find, when I touched the electrical connectors on cylinder 4 and 3, it began misfiring, so I worked the connectors on and off in attempt to make a better connection, which it did. Stopped misfiring and didn't miss a beat whilst I wobbled the connectors again.
There was viable oxidisation on injector 3. With the evidence of oxidisation I've found on 2 connectors now, I think it'll be best to fully removed the loom and check everything over the winter months I won't be using it.
I checked resistance of the coolant temp sensor which was just under 100 when hot and just under 1000 when cold. We'll out range compared to hanynes manual so will be replacing that also.
Finally, checked the oxygen sensor, again out of range when warm so got a new one on order. Producing 0.1v at idle and 0.5v at 2,000 rpm which is very much on the low side.
Been a test drive and it's running much better, I put this mostly down to the bad connection on the injectors. I will update again once fitted the new sensors
Carried out some more testing.
Found an air leak from the grommet sealing the ICV to the inlet manifold. Sourced a new one from BMW and fitted it, sorted that.
Whilst engine was idling, I used a screwdriver on the injectors to listen to them operating. Only to find, when I touched the electrical connectors on cylinder 4 and 3, it began misfiring, so I worked the connectors on and off in attempt to make a better connection, which it did. Stopped misfiring and didn't miss a beat whilst I wobbled the connectors again.
There was viable oxidisation on injector 3. With the evidence of oxidisation I've found on 2 connectors now, I think it'll be best to fully removed the loom and check everything over the winter months I won't be using it.
I checked resistance of the coolant temp sensor which was just under 100 when hot and just under 1000 when cold. We'll out range compared to hanynes manual so will be replacing that also.
Finally, checked the oxygen sensor, again out of range when warm so got a new one on order. Producing 0.1v at idle and 0.5v at 2,000 rpm which is very much on the low side.
Been a test drive and it's running much better, I put this mostly down to the bad connection on the injectors. I will update again once fitted the new sensors
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BobIzYaUncle
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- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 11:54 pm
The car is now in my garage. I've had a big clear out to make space. Got a nice workbench made up out of old kitchen units and worktop.
Let the work commence. Bonnet off ready and current plans are to
remove the inlet system including manifold for cleaning and replace all gaskets.
Replace all the ignition, plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm and coil. As well as all the sensors including crank sensor, pulse sensor, both coolant sensors.
Remove and restore the engine wiring harness.
Replace any necessary hoses or pipes
Remove rocker cover to inspect camshaft for wear and maybe paint the rocker cover whilst it's off.
General clean up of the engine bay area
I'm sure the list will grow as I get stuck in and find faults.
Let the work commence. Bonnet off ready and current plans are to
remove the inlet system including manifold for cleaning and replace all gaskets.
Replace all the ignition, plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm and coil. As well as all the sensors including crank sensor, pulse sensor, both coolant sensors.
Remove and restore the engine wiring harness.
Replace any necessary hoses or pipes
Remove rocker cover to inspect camshaft for wear and maybe paint the rocker cover whilst it's off.
General clean up of the engine bay area
I'm sure the list will grow as I get stuck in and find faults.
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BobIzYaUncle
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So the work starts. This is the start of much to come. Started with the strip down. This is as far I'm going with the strip down for now. I've got lots of cleaning and tidy g up to do and more parts orders. I'll be updating on each individual part as I go through it including overhauling the wiring harness, strip down, clean and rebuild of intake manifold, new injectors, throttle body, complete ignition service and much more.
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BobIzYaUncle
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More from last weekend... Upon removing the inlet manifold, found cylinder 3 was full of fuel! Also noting how clean the inlet is compared to another cylinder. I suspected the misfire was fuel not ignition / electrical. Seems I have a leaking injector. I've put another order in @autodoc_autoparts including new injectors. Still waiting for the order to arrive but I'll be tearing apart all the pieces of the inlet manifold this weekend for cleaning and in preparation for new parts.
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BobIzYaUncle
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Inlet teardown. This weekends progress. Full strip down of the intake. Take note of
the heater element... This is the aluminum part which fits on the bottom of the throttle body. It's purpose is to allow coolant to flow through so when up to temp, it stops the oil from the breather solidifying. We'll, in this case the pipes were full of corrosion and limescale. I will be giving everything a thorough cleaning and will have to see what I can do with this heater element. I'm not sure I can salvage it.
I plan on degreasing everything, Overhauling the throttle body, maybe paint the manifolds depending how clean they become, new injectors, new pipes and hoses, new throttle position switch, new gaskets and seals.
Stay tuned, Next weekend, I'll have an update on this and hopefully start cleaning up the head and rocker cover ready for reassembly
the heater element... This is the aluminum part which fits on the bottom of the throttle body. It's purpose is to allow coolant to flow through so when up to temp, it stops the oil from the breather solidifying. We'll, in this case the pipes were full of corrosion and limescale. I will be giving everything a thorough cleaning and will have to see what I can do with this heater element. I'm not sure I can salvage it.
I plan on degreasing everything, Overhauling the throttle body, maybe paint the manifolds depending how clean they become, new injectors, new pipes and hoses, new throttle position switch, new gaskets and seals.
Stay tuned, Next weekend, I'll have an update on this and hopefully start cleaning up the head and rocker cover ready for reassembly
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BobIzYaUncle
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Images continued
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BobIzYaUncle
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Thanks to Chad @nottingham_bodyworks for media blasting my inlet manifold and throttle body. Saved me a ton of hard work. Top lad, nothing too much trouble, no job too small from scratch repairs to full resprays including wheel referbs.
Now just to decide if to leave bare or give it a lick of paint
Now just to decide if to leave bare or give it a lick of paint

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- Tzantushka
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
I like the direction where this is going.
Solid diagnosis and checks - rather than just throwing parts at it.
Solid diagnosis and checks - rather than just throwing parts at it.
You didn’t say how many miles are on it. Looks in really good nick and with all the internal and engine work it’s going to be very impressive. Hope all the bits go back together and sort the problems. The colour will certainly draw attention. Good luck with the project.
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BobIzYaUncle
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Cheers, appreciate the nice comment. its not often I get to work on something of this age so Im using it a learning curve to get a better understanding of the era's mechanicals and technology. I plan on replacing a lot of stuff but for my piece of mind, I'd like to also know if what I'm replacing is actually worn, broke or serviceable.Tzantushka wrote: ↑Thu Dec 10, 2020 2:07 amI like the direction where this is going.
Solid diagnosis and checks - rather than just throwing parts at it.
Ah, it's on 105,000 miles. It's my understanding the cams are normally good for around 100k. I will be doing an update on the cam situation soon. Thanks for the kind comment. I'm not usually a fan of green, but I do like the colour, and it's metallicHenryM3 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 10, 2020 11:04 amYou didn’t say how many miles are on it. Looks in really good nick and with all the internal and engine work it’s going to be very impressive. Hope all the bits go back together and sort the problems. The colour will certainly draw attention. Good luck with the project.

Cheers for the comment, appreciated. Yeah, I was a bit reluctant to have it blasted due tot he risk but I think it's turned out great. All the parts have been fully submerged again in degreaser, rinsed thoroughly and wiped down by hand, I'm sure it's all out but it will get another rinse to be sure before fitting.
Nice one. Appreciate the comments, means alot. Its turned into a great winter project so I've got plenty of time for the photos and detail. I was very tempted to start a YouTube channel on it as inspired by restore it channel but I'm camera shy and I don't think I have a great cover voice so I'm sticking to photos and details

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BobIzYaUncle
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Finally got round to sorting the engine wiring harness. All degrease, cleaned and all connections checked. I've also re wrapped in fabric tape. Looks 100 times better. Sorry for poor pictures this time, lighting wasn't very good
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BobIzYaUncle
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doomgess_e30 Heater element... Or so its called. Mounted to the underside of the throttle body. Its purpose is to allow the engine coolant to flow through, warming up the oil capers as they enter the throttle body from the rocker cover breather to stop them solidifying back into oil. Mine was totally blocked. Once cleaned, It was badly eroded and pitted with a hole in one pipe and the end missing on the other. Brasing repair would still have been too harsh on the week aluminum so after some research I found unibond do resin putty which can withstand temps upto 120°c and waterproof. Ive managed a good repair and it sands easily. Painted in silver and it looks good. However, after checking with by local BMW dealership, I can get the part for little over £30. Stock available I. Germany so should arrive before Xmas. After weighing it up, I've decided to go for a new one. Although I'm happy with the repair, I don't want to risk spoiling my hard work for a £30 part
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BobIzYaUncle
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And the painting starts... From left to right is fuel pipe retainer, fuel rail, inlet support and throttle cable mount. All degrease, cleaned, sanded and had 2 coats in satin black High temp aerosol. Happy with the finish. Enough paint left to do the rocker cover
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BobIzYaUncle
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Inlet all done Well happy with the outcome. Just waiting on the new throttle body gasket.
So to recap, manifolds and throttle body aqua blasted, thanks to @nottingham_bodyworks finished off with a few coats of metallic silver. Fuel rail and throttle cable bracket cleaned and repainted in high temp satin black. New fuel and vac hoses. Idle control valve bracket, fuel pressure regulator and other parts degreased and cleaned. New hose clips, new uprated bosch injectors, new gaskets, new throttle position switch, heater element repaired and painted silver however I have a new one on the way. All nuts and bolts, degreased and cleaned on the wire wheel, could do with zinc plating tbh. But, very happy with how it has turned out.
So far on this part of the project, it's took approx 8 hours and almost £200 in parts
Stay tuned for progress on the cam cover
So to recap, manifolds and throttle body aqua blasted, thanks to @nottingham_bodyworks finished off with a few coats of metallic silver. Fuel rail and throttle cable bracket cleaned and repainted in high temp satin black. New fuel and vac hoses. Idle control valve bracket, fuel pressure regulator and other parts degreased and cleaned. New hose clips, new uprated bosch injectors, new gaskets, new throttle position switch, heater element repaired and painted silver however I have a new one on the way. All nuts and bolts, degreased and cleaned on the wire wheel, could do with zinc plating tbh. But, very happy with how it has turned out.
So far on this part of the project, it's took approx 8 hours and almost £200 in parts
Stay tuned for progress on the cam cover
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BobIzYaUncle
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Another part of the project complete. The cam cover has out really well. It's was in a sorry state, firstly degreased and cleaned. Then rinsed with off with brake cleaner. It's had 3 solid coats of satin black High temp aerosol before have the top shaved with the fine disc Grinder.
It's slowly coming together, can't wait to get all the parts refitted but theres so much still to do. The more I do, the more I want to do
This is the first time I've set about tidying an engine bay and I'm impressed with the results so far.
Next up will be to completely drain the cooling system, clean all the hoses, coolant housings and replace with new gaskets and thermostat. Got the new coolant sensors ready to go in.
I'm very tempted to strip the rest of the engine and paint that too to match the rest of the work I've done. Also thinking of removing the alternator and starter motor for a going over. As I said, the more I do, the more I want to do as I can't have a clean top end and nasty bottom
I don't plan on putting her back on the road till spring so still have plenty of time
It's slowly coming together, can't wait to get all the parts refitted but theres so much still to do. The more I do, the more I want to do
This is the first time I've set about tidying an engine bay and I'm impressed with the results so far.
Next up will be to completely drain the cooling system, clean all the hoses, coolant housings and replace with new gaskets and thermostat. Got the new coolant sensors ready to go in.
I'm very tempted to strip the rest of the engine and paint that too to match the rest of the work I've done. Also thinking of removing the alternator and starter motor for a going over. As I said, the more I do, the more I want to do as I can't have a clean top end and nasty bottom
I don't plan on putting her back on the road till spring so still have plenty of time
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BobIzYaUncle
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Just read through this excellent thread. Thanks for posting with such great detail and clear photography - this really helps. Seeing parts dismantled that are not easily visible helps encourage / discourage work on my own car. Keep the posts coming and have a great Xmas.
What he say`s, I have no more words mateocde30 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:04 amJust read through this excellent thread. Thanks for posting with such great detail and clear photography - this really helps. Seeing parts dismantled that are not easily visible helps encourage / discourage work on my own car. Keep the posts coming and have a great Xmas.
Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
Just got too old.
Do it all or as much as you possibly can, if your going to keep the car. You’ll put it back together and think, wish I’d done that bit, and that and I could have reached that bit to. If your keeping the car it will never get into that state again cos your an enthusiast and will keep on top of it. The excellent stuff you’ve already done will make what’s left even worse. You know you want to.
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BobIzYaUncle
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Cheers for the comment mate, really appreciate it. There will be plenty more. I try and keep this thread updated but my Instagram @doomgess_30 is most up to date.ocde30 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:04 amJust read through this excellent thread. Thanks for posting with such great detail and clear photography - this really helps. Seeing parts dismantled that are not easily visible helps encourage / discourage work on my own car. Keep the posts coming and have a great Xmas.
I've decided to go the whole hog... The head will be coming off

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BobIzYaUncle
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martauto wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 2:48 pmWhat he say`s, I have no more words mateocde30 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:04 amJust read through this excellent thread. Thanks for posting with such great detail and clear photography - this really helps. Seeing parts dismantled that are not easily visible helps encourage / discourage work on my own car. Keep the posts coming and have a great Xmas.![]()
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Mart.
Cheers mate-
BobIzYaUncle
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Yep, that makes total sense, hence why I've decided to go the whole hog. I'll be removing the head. Lots to do but as you say, once it's done it's done and I probably wouldn't be stripping it down this far again so may as well go that bit furtherHenryM3 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:09 pmDo it all or as much as you possibly can, if your going to keep the car. You’ll put it back together and think, wish I’d done that bit, and that and I could have reached that bit to. If your keeping the car it will never get into that state again cos your an enthusiast and will keep on top of it. The excellent stuff you’ve already done will make what’s left even worse. You know you want to.

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BobIzYaUncle
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Well, I'm committed! Not really please with what I've found this time. I've gone ahead and removed the alternator and mount, starter motor, coolant hoses, radiator, water pump, V belts etc and I've found missing bolts in timing cover and water pump pulley. Also, a crack in the dowl mount on the starter motor. I know this isn't end of the world but more work than I originally planned.
Problem is now I've got this far, there a lot of oil behind the timing cover. I'm very tempted to go the whole hog and do the headgasket now I'm this far in as it's going to need the oil leak investigating and new timing belt. I know there's a noisy lifter so it would make sense now. At least it shouldn't ever need stripping apart again. I just worry incase I find more issues if I remove the head.
What are your thoughts? What would you do?
Problem is now I've got this far, there a lot of oil behind the timing cover. I'm very tempted to go the whole hog and do the headgasket now I'm this far in as it's going to need the oil leak investigating and new timing belt. I know there's a noisy lifter so it would make sense now. At least it shouldn't ever need stripping apart again. I just worry incase I find more issues if I remove the head.
What are your thoughts? What would you do?
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Honestly if it takes 6 months longer because of funds or whatever your better doing it. Obviously a previous owner was less than thorough and when a bolt went missing they thought f+2k it 3 will do. Take your time and you’ll end up with a car you can jump into and go on a 1000mile tour with confidence that nothing is going to fall off or fail.
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BobIzYaUncle
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- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 11:54 pm
Cheers for your thoughts. It's already doneHenryM3 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 25, 2020 2:34 pmHonestly if it takes 6 months longer because of funds or whatever your better doing it. Obviously a previous owner was less than thorough and when a bolt went missing they thought f+2k it 3 will do. Take your time and you’ll end up with a car you can jump into and go on a 1000mile tour with confidence that nothing is going to fall off or fail.
Heads off, I'll update post later




