86 323i
Moderator: martauto
The lock on the drivers side won't actuate the central locking. Two separate faults. A worn latch and a broken lock Cylinder. Got a latch from a breaker and all good but waiting for a cylinder. £57 including vat from local dealers. Not too bad really.
My idle issue now seems resolved. I bought a few rare used parts and swapped them over.
These include a AFM and an air slide valve. Tried it from cold and warm and it seems even and settled around 800 revs with smooth acceleration.
Try as I might, I can't get the temp guage to work. I have tried another guage and another sensor and no luck. So looking at the tips on this fab resource I looked at my binnacle batteries.
Oh dear, seepage!!.
Gonna try new batteries but board has some staining and oxidisation.
Thanks for looking. Jed
These include a AFM and an air slide valve. Tried it from cold and warm and it seems even and settled around 800 revs with smooth acceleration.
Try as I might, I can't get the temp guage to work. I have tried another guage and another sensor and no luck. So looking at the tips on this fab resource I looked at my binnacle batteries.
Oh dear, seepage!!.
Gonna try new batteries but board has some staining and oxidisation.
Thanks for looking. Jed
-
Speedtouch
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 14030
- Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Canterbury
Good work, on getting the car to idle correctly.
If you have a multimeter, you could use the continuity tester/low ohms setting to ensure the affected tracks on the PCB are still making contact with the soldered ends. You may have to press quite hard with the probes to get a reading, as often PCBs were lacquer-coated.
If tracks are broken, you can solder lengths of thin copper-enamelled wire or similar in between the terminations.
If you have a multimeter, you could use the continuity tester/low ohms setting to ensure the affected tracks on the PCB are still making contact with the soldered ends. You may have to press quite hard with the probes to get a reading, as often PCBs were lacquer-coated.
If tracks are broken, you can solder lengths of thin copper-enamelled wire or similar in between the terminations.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
Did my first ever cambelt change. It was a good learning experience for me. I had real trouble with that flywheel damper but got it off in end. I lined up the timing marks on the damper and cam casing and the cam pulley with the markings. Mine is an early car so have to remove the distributor cap to check its cambelt driven pulley doesn't move. There is a little line in the housing of the distributor which aligns with the rotor arm.
Once all good, I pulled the tension off and slipped of the belt. The tensioner got changed and annoyingly the wrong waterpump was supplied. Mine has a extra branch from the pump to the expansion tank. When the new pump arrived I slipped on the new continental belt and did the four rotations with the crank pulley. Now all greased so that damper won't stick again. Not started up yet as coolant empty as I am attempting to clean the tank up. Cheers Jed
Once all good, I pulled the tension off and slipped of the belt. The tensioner got changed and annoyingly the wrong waterpump was supplied. Mine has a extra branch from the pump to the expansion tank. When the new pump arrived I slipped on the new continental belt and did the four rotations with the crank pulley. Now all greased so that damper won't stick again. Not started up yet as coolant empty as I am attempting to clean the tank up. Cheers Jed

