Waxoil. Excellent protection or Automotive Pebbledash?
Moderator: martauto
On a recent inspection of the underside of my 325is i found a small area of rust below the battery compartment in the boot. I have cleaned it up and applied some rust stopper. I have been looking at Waxoil as a method of preventing any further outbrakes but I am concerned that this could just cover up any more rust and allow it to develop under the Waxoil undetected. I also do not know how easy it would be to carry out any further repairs when everything is coated in the stuff. Does anyone have any experence of the pros and cons of this stuff?
I'm going to use this in the sills etc http://www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html the classic car fellas reckon it is very good and outperforms Waxoyl.
Sound good and not a bad price. Cheers for the info 
- DieselMeister
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 388
- Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 11:00 pm
Waxoyl has always worked fine for me. Just make sure you're not charged over the odds for the treatment.
-
Lordschleife
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1915
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Southsea
- Contact:
Waxoyl do an underbody seal version (black container instead of yellow) you can get it in a spray can from halfords. That will be better than std waxoyl for an exposed area
Cheers,
Robin

Robin

- DieselMeister
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 388
- Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 11:00 pm
This is the stuff I used, although bought fro ma motor factor rather than the highstreetLordschleife wrote:Waxoyl do an underbody seal version (black container instead of yellow) you can get it in a spray can from halfords. That will be better than std waxoyl for an exposed area
-
Martinaston
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3749
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: London
Does anyone know what the original underbody seal is called ?
The white rubberised stuff.
The white rubberised stuff.
-
SwirlyE30
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1509
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Worthing-Brighton South Coast
- Contact:
Nice thread , as im after something to use on my sills to replace the stone chip look. Halfords have the waxyol stonechip stuff, but its really thin, i wanna re do the sills and paint them before i sell the car to clean it all up
1986 Chevrolet Corvette. 330ftlb torque....V8s rule!
- buster
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3779
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Near middlesbrough,Teesside
On the sills use tyre paint as it stays quite rubbery stopping it getting chipped.I did this on my first e30 and it was spot on.SwirlyE30 wrote:Nice thread , as im after something to use on my sills to replace the stone chip look. Halfords have the waxyol stonechip stuff, but its really thin, i wanna re do the sills and paint them before i sell the car to clean it all up
waxoyl is good stuff and does what it claims. i've applied it liberally to the underside of all my cars over the years, once a year around easter time once the frosts have stopped and there's been some rain to wash to the salt from the roads. it halts/slows almost to a stop any corrosion that's already there and certainly prevents more corrosion from forming.
waxoyl themselves claim that a coating should last 2 years.
if you paint/apply it over road salt or wet muck and then expect it to work then that's the actions and thoughts of a loon. it's pretty horrible cleaning the underside of a car then waxoyling it but the feeling once done and almost certain knowledge that there'll be no welding bills come ticket time is worth it i reckon.
paul
waxoyl themselves claim that a coating should last 2 years.
if you paint/apply it over road salt or wet muck and then expect it to work then that's the actions and thoughts of a loon. it's pretty horrible cleaning the underside of a car then waxoyling it but the feeling once done and almost certain knowledge that there'll be no welding bills come ticket time is worth it i reckon.
paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....


Back in the 70`s , a masive selling point for any second hand motor was that it had been "waxoiled" and "Ziebarted" (spot on underseal) from new.
Hear`s a question, were all E-30`s properly undersealed from the factory or was it extra? Mines an 86 and the underside is Brill, Am I alone?
Mart.
Hear`s a question, were all E-30`s properly undersealed from the factory or was it extra? Mines an 86 and the underside is Brill, Am I alone?
Mart.
-
DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 28641
- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
- Contact:
ROC wrote:I'm going to use this in the sills etc http://www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html the classic car fellas reckon it is very good and outperforms Waxoyl.
HOW MUCH!!
You can buy 5 litres of Waxoil for about £15
Worthwhile investment IMO
Heres a good deal
-
DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 28641
- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
- Contact:
I thought the "in thing" in the 70's was to get your sills filled with old engine oilmartauto wrote:Back in the 70`s , a masive selling point for any second hand motor was that it had been "waxoiled" and "Ziebarted" (spot on underseal) from new.
HAD A GUY OUT A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO TO REMOVE A COBRA ALARM WHICH WAS PLAYING UP,HE USED TO WORK FOR SYTNER IN NOTTS DURING LATE 70S EARLY 80sHE GAVE ME A GOOD TIP WHICH WAS TO TAKE OUT BACK SEATS AND CARDS AND WAX OIL THE REAR ARCHS FROM THE INSIDE. I INTEND TO ADD THIS TO MY TO DO LIST THIS SUMMER. HOPE THIS IS USEFULL GUYS 
-
Martinaston
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3749
- Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: London
Vauxhall used to leave them out in the rain unpainted so when it came to spraying them it would stick better 
-
Lordschleife
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1915
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Southsea
- Contact:
Any one ever see the Clarksons car years about who killed the british car industry, shocking
Cheers,
Robin

Robin

-
TVRTASMIN
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 279
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Steeton West Yorks
The undersealing done in the 70's, particularly on British cars including Landrovers, was a form of bitumen and trapped rust and moisture.
After a few years the outward appearance looks OK but take a scraper to it and you could often dig straight into the box section which had turned into crumbling rusty flakes. The rest just scrapes of in rusty sheets with a bitumen coating.
After a few years the outward appearance looks OK but take a scraper to it and you could often dig straight into the box section which had turned into crumbling rusty flakes. The rest just scrapes of in rusty sheets with a bitumen coating.
-
Lordschleife
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1915
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Southsea
- Contact:
- double post -
Last edited by Lordschleife on Fri May 19, 2006 11:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cheers,
Robin

Robin

-
Lordschleife
- E30 Zone Squatter

- Posts: 1915
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Sunny Southsea
- Contact:
Erm what the title says!SwirlyE30 wrote:No mate, what was it about?
Lots of stuff about British cars in the 70's, strikes, cars leaving the factory with filler already in, piss poor design - one was designed too wide to fit through the tunnel between two parts of the factory, so the bare unpainted shells were driven 1/4 mile in the rain before spraying etc etc
Keep an eye out they're always being repeated on UK People, worth watching the other ones too - the New Romantics (80's hot hatches) is particularly good
Cheers,
Robin

Robin

If you have got rust "YOU HAVE GOT RUST".
No matter how well you clean it up it is still there. You need to treat the area with a good rust converter which makes the area inert. No amount of waxoyl or similar will stop further rusting, it will only slow it down.
After using the rust converter you can spray the trouble spot and surrounding sound area with a zinc type primer before applying a finishing coat.
Have a look at this site http://www.rust.co.uk/ , in particular fe 23 and the epoxy mastic.
I used products from this company in the past and they are excellent, but like everything else the secret is in FOLLOWING the instructions, paying particular attention to the guidelines for preparation.
If it keeps oil rigs in the North Sea afloat it will keep an e30 on the road for a few more years!
No matter how well you clean it up it is still there. You need to treat the area with a good rust converter which makes the area inert. No amount of waxoyl or similar will stop further rusting, it will only slow it down.
After using the rust converter you can spray the trouble spot and surrounding sound area with a zinc type primer before applying a finishing coat.
Have a look at this site http://www.rust.co.uk/ , in particular fe 23 and the epoxy mastic.
I used products from this company in the past and they are excellent, but like everything else the secret is in FOLLOWING the instructions, paying particular attention to the guidelines for preparation.
If it keeps oil rigs in the North Sea afloat it will keep an e30 on the road for a few more years!
Back in the 70`s , a masive selling point for any second hand motor was that it had been "waxoiled" and "Ziebarted
Some of you guys have missed the point.
When you bought a new car , you had it Waxoiled and Ziebarted from new, by people who only did this for their job.
My question also was did all E-30`s from new , have the same treatment?
Cheers, Mart
ps I used to and still do , buy very second hand cars.
Some of you guys have missed the point.
When you bought a new car , you had it Waxoiled and Ziebarted from new, by people who only did this for their job.
My question also was did all E-30`s from new , have the same treatment?
Cheers, Mart
ps I used to and still do , buy very second hand cars.
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Most M20s make a fairly good job of coating the underside with engine oil without any external help.DanThe wrote:Would I want to fill my sills with old engine oil? Not a chance!
If I did I reckon Environmental Health would have a thing or two to say about it
-
bigkev
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 612
- Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: hibernating till summer
you are right there brian (un)fortunately mine has a fantastic selfpreservation undercoating system you just add oil in the usual manner
(via the rocker cover)and the engine provides the under body with a perfect thin film of old engine oil over everything from the front of the sills rearwards(a bit like a scottoiler on a motorbike chain)
i am thinking of selling an UNDERBODY SEALING KIT consisting of some knackered old cam and crank oil seals, just add oil
dont laugh too soon mine's 22 yrs old with not a spot of rust underneath
(via the rocker cover)and the engine provides the under body with a perfect thin film of old engine oil over everything from the front of the sills rearwards(a bit like a scottoiler on a motorbike chain)
i am thinking of selling an UNDERBODY SEALING KIT consisting of some knackered old cam and crank oil seals, just add oil
dont laugh too soon mine's 22 yrs old with not a spot of rust underneath



