E30 Zone

Hey guys

Thinking of purchasing one of those cheap easy to install keyless entry mods on the 325. Anyone had any experience with them? Are they just as safe as any other keyless car?

Appreciate any input.
Cheers
Jo

Search for Brianmoore's posts abour Rightclick on here.

Ben

Easy to connect. ALL the wires you need to access are located in the area behind the glovebox, where there's room for the module.
Several key fob styles available, including one that closely resembles the genuine hexagonal fob, that can be fitted with a key blade that can be cut to suit your car.
Have fitted several over the years, all all have been 100% reliable.

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 25, 2019 11:30 pm

Easy to connect. ALL the wires you need to access are located in the area behind the glovebox, where there's room for the module.
Several key fob styles available, including one that closely resembles the genuine hexagonal fob, that can be fitted with a key blade that can be cut to suit your car.
Have fitted several over the years, all all have been 100% reliable.

Thanks guys for the encouragement, sounds like I’ll crack on then!

Every now and again my Rightclick fails to work after heavy rain. The module is behind the glovebox so the reason for this is hard to fathom, anyway the central locking still works with a key, so it is not that ECU, and normal service is resumed when it gets drier.

I still like to dead lock the car.

Satan wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 27, 2019 8:28 pm

I still like to dead lock the car.

What does the deadlock achieve? I know it’s something to do with it also being locked on the inside?

Deadlock is activated by a microswitch behind the driver's key barrel. It operates a second motor on each other door actuator which locks the mechanism solid from inside and out. There is no deadlock on the fuel flap, and the deadlock in the driver's door and boot/tailgate are activated mechanically by the key.
It wouldn't be difficult to use the 'spare' function on the Rightclick modules to operate the deadlocks on the other doors, but, for the reasons above, it wouldn't dedlock the driver's door.

Possible to provide a link to the thread for the right click solution?
I’m in the market for remote solution and having trouble finding a E30 friendly solution.

Some instructions for fitting it in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=266585&p=2885337&hi ... k#p2885337

Ben

BristolE30 wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 28, 2019 12:30 pm

Satan wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 27, 2019 8:28 pm

I still like to dead lock the car.

What does the deadlock achieve? I know it’s something to do with it also being locked on the inside?

Added level of security.

BristolE30 wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 28, 2019 12:30 pm

What does the deadlock achieve? I know it’s something to do with it also being locked on the inside?

The main thing it does is to prevent a potential thief pulling out the top of the door frame, dropping a wire over the internal lock button, and pulling it up - a procedure that I've seen my brother in law perform in about thirty seconds. The mushroom headed buttons on the E30 make this easier than on later models, where the mushroom head has been dispensed with.

I assume the later model button shares a thread size with the E30, would a straight swap be possible?

Cloggy Saint wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 30, 2019 12:30 am

I assume the later model button shares a thread size with the E30, would a straight swap be possible?

When they fitted the alarm to my E36 they took the buttons and the short wire rod out completely, fitted an appropriate size flashing LED into the hole. Can't say I missed them but it was 2-door and usually only me in it.

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 29, 2019 1:17 pm

https://www.rclick.co.uk/shop/index.php ... er=product

Nice do you know what the correct blank key code is?

BristolE30 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 30, 2019 6:36 pm

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 29, 2019 1:17 pm

https://www.rclick.co.uk/shop/index.php ... er=product

Nice do you know what the correct blank key code is?

Brian said HU50 On another thread.

Ordered the KE670 remote kit from Rclick.co.uk.
Also specified the HU 50 code as the blanks for the key.

Let's see how they go.

Tzantushka wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 29, 2020 3:47 am

Ordered the KE670 remote kit from Rclick.co.uk.
Also specified the HU 50 code as the blanks for the key.

Let's see how they go.

might be ordering that myself soon, got used to that on my daily (mk5 jetta).

I am getting ready to fit the Right Click central locking kit when it turns up.
But I'd like to make sure I know what I'm doing beforehand.

Based on Brian's tips and the collective wisdom in this thread - I have marked-up the 2020 version of the Right Click wiring diagram.

Does this look right to the experienced experts?

Looks about right, other than you need to include the two diodes on the indicator circuit, and connect the blue/red and blue/black to the cathode (stripe) ends of the diodes, otherwise you will have no indicators, but three ways of turning on your hazard lights.

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 04, 2020 1:42 pm

Looks about right, other than you need to include the two diodes on the indicator circuit, and connect the blue/red and blue/black to the cathode (stripe) ends of the diodes, otherwise you will have no indicators, but three ways of turning on your hazard lights.

Thanks - have updated the diagram, below, so it's clearer the diodes are before splicing into the indicator circuits.



Whilst I was upgrading the front speakers & waiting for the Right Click remote kit to arrive, I noticed that someone else has been in the (LH) door un/lock circuit before.
Uh Oh... Scotch Locks:



Yep, had to remove the remnants of the old alarm first.
(More pics inmy progress thread)

II fitted a simple (cheap) central locking unit off of Ebay for about 25€ and hooked it into the drivers door wires and the ignition wiring and never a days problem, but DO NOT use scotch locks, strip and solder all joints or you will get failures.

Tzantushka wrote: ↑

Wed May 13, 2020 11:44 am

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 04, 2020 1:42 pm

Looks about right, other than you need to include the two diodes on the indicator circuit, and connect the blue/red and blue/black to the cathode (stripe) ends of the diodes, otherwise you will have no indicators, but three ways of turning on your hazard lights.

Thanks - have updated the diagram, below, so it's clearer the diodes are before splicing into the indicator circuits.



Whilst I was upgrading the front speakers & waiting for the Right Click remote kit to arrive, I noticed that someone else has been in the (LH) door un/lock circuit before.
Uh Oh... Scotch Locks:



Yep, had to remove the remnants of the old alarm first.
(More pics inmy progress thread)

Did you fit this, and did it work okay? Just had mine arrive. Thanks.

JimmyMc wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 17, 2020 8:16 pm

Did you fit this, and did it work okay? Just had mine arrive. Thanks.

Yes.
Works very well - best mod so far.
Few observations for those interested:

Kit is pretty good - everything you need is in the box.



Wiring loom is longer than you need (if installing behind the glovebox on RHD cars).
Even includes the diodes for the indicator circuit (flashers) and inline fuse.



Key fob 'looks' BMW - it doesn't 'feel' very BMW - very light in the hand.
Good range and positive click with buttons - just feels very light.



Only negative is the specified key blank doesn't actually fit & work when cut by an auto locksmith.
1. Key is chrome plated brass and not as strong as the OE stainless keys
2. The slots are cut too close together and doesn't fit the barrel well (and the lock wafers don't properly engage)

See difference between OE key blank (LH) & the Right Click one.



That's OK - I'll just remove the Right Click key and use the remote fob & OE key.
Long term plan - I'll cut the OE key and modify the key shank to fit the Right Click remote.

If you follow Brianmoores installation guidelines in the above links and wiring diagram image - you can't go wrong.
Electronics box can be tucked up high in the dash behind the LH vent (for good remote reception range).
Earth point was spot on, lock-unlock wires, +12V live and indicator circuits all close by.

The bright blue LED indicator is a bit gaudy - but can be easily swapped out and modified for a bezel mount LED in a dash switch blank.

On mine it came with flip out keys but soon broke away, very thin sides, it also has a third button for a boot popper, (requires a separate solenoid). Buying a fixed key is best. Over complicating by getting an alarm/locking unit is a waste, unless the car is outside you house no one takes any notice and can be silenced in 10 seconds anyway. Been fitting alarms for 30 years.

Very useful summary. Thanks.

My right click module has just arrived but I’ve come across a little hurdle. It seems some P/O has installed a remote locking unit/alarm already but I don’t think they’ve used wires behind glove box from what I can see. What’s the best way of working out what each of these exisiting wires does? Then I could just replace the dud box with the right click one. Little bit new to the electric circuit stuff

Always good fun unpicking other peoples bodge ups! At least it looks tidily done from the little bit I can see, even if not connected to the points BMW intended.
You'll have to unwrap the black tape and split the bunch of wires until you come back to where they individually connect to the OE wiring, and then show us some more pics.

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:47 pm

Always good fun unpicking other peoples bodge ups! At least it looks tidily done from the little bit I can see, even if not connected to the points BMW intended.
You'll have to unwrap the black tape and split the bunch of wires until you come back to where they individually connect to the OE wiring, and then show us some more pics.

Yea it doesn’t look like an awful job to be fair. Is there anyway of determining what each wire does without unwrapping it? I’ve got a multi meter ....

It would be possible without unwrapping, but you still won't know if they're connected correctly. Also, it's bad practice (and potentially extremely confusing) to add extension wiring onto existing extension wiring.

Great thread this. I discovered a similar looking module under my dash but have long ago dispensed of the fobs the car came with as it never worked from the day I had it. Perhaps time to refresh it.

rix313 wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 27, 2020 7:34 pm

have long ago dispensed of the fobs the car came with as it never worked from the day I had it.

One of the great things about the Rightclick kit is that replacement fobs are readily available.

Brianmoooore wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 27, 2020 2:17 pm

It would be possible without unwrapping, but you still won't know if they're connected correctly. Also, it's bad practice (and potentially extremely confusing) to add extension wiring onto existing extension wiring.

Yes I know it’s bad... but I did it. Worked out which was the unlock and lock along with the 3 grounds and indicators. All wired up and working a treat!

Does anyone have a solution for the key blades not being correct? Can we get correct blades?