14 inch bbs alloys fitted
Moderator: martauto
has anyone experienced any problems after fitting 14 bbs alloys
to a standard car, my car has 14 " bbs fitted and balanced, but i have a steering wobble at 55-60 mph. I have checked the lower ball joint ,mid ball joint and lollipop on control arm no play there.
the tie rod ends feel tight as does the inner tie rod, wheel bearings are fine.
only play i could fine was on the pinion that comes out of the bulkhead before in connects to the uj,s and rubber gubilo, shaft into the steering rack.
don,t know. could it be the steering rack its self. the steering is direct with no free play.
any suggestions please
to a standard car, my car has 14 " bbs fitted and balanced, but i have a steering wobble at 55-60 mph. I have checked the lower ball joint ,mid ball joint and lollipop on control arm no play there.
the tie rod ends feel tight as does the inner tie rod, wheel bearings are fine.
only play i could fine was on the pinion that comes out of the bulkhead before in connects to the uj,s and rubber gubilo, shaft into the steering rack.
don,t know. could it be the steering rack its self. the steering is direct with no free play.
any suggestions please
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Cloggy Saint
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 8024
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: zummerzet
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Open boot, remove spare wheel, fit to car, and drive. If no change, refit original wheel, and fit spare to another corner. Repeat until vibration stops or changes.
i did try that to no avail, well only swapped the fronts.
I,m in the process of buying set of bootle tops at the mo. they look much better con than my wheels
I have got bbs without centre caps on at the moment, i understand the caps go walk about, so going for B/T instead, complete with centre caps. see how i go with these.
my bbs look battered on edges and tyre fitted commented one way slightly kinked said the balancing will sort it. but i had my doubts
I.m loving the Car, just gotta sort out my wobble.
Ive done plenty to it. changed engine oil/filter and cleaned spray bar. it sound better now only hear the ticking from injectors.
cleaned icv that was stuck, soaked in petrol for 20 mins got all crap out, then soked in diesel works well now ,adjusted the idle stop 3/4 turn in once it moves throttle lever . starts better now and good steady tick over.
found a crack in the icv pipe.
changed plugs, cleaned distbutor inside and rotor. still got to fit fuel filter and air filter, and must do a visual check on the cam belt soon. hope that front top cover comes off easy. thanks P
I,m in the process of buying set of bootle tops at the mo. they look much better con than my wheels
I have got bbs without centre caps on at the moment, i understand the caps go walk about, so going for B/T instead, complete with centre caps. see how i go with these.
my bbs look battered on edges and tyre fitted commented one way slightly kinked said the balancing will sort it. but i had my doubts
I.m loving the Car, just gotta sort out my wobble.
Ive done plenty to it. changed engine oil/filter and cleaned spray bar. it sound better now only hear the ticking from injectors.
cleaned icv that was stuck, soaked in petrol for 20 mins got all crap out, then soked in diesel works well now ,adjusted the idle stop 3/4 turn in once it moves throttle lever . starts better now and good steady tick over.
found a crack in the icv pipe.
changed plugs, cleaned distbutor inside and rotor. still got to fit fuel filter and air filter, and must do a visual check on the cam belt soon. hope that front top cover comes off easy. thanks P
You are right to have your doubts!!!arrisbmw wrote:my bbs look battered on edges and tyre fitted commented one way slightly kinked said the balancing will sort it. but i had my doubts
P
Do as Brian says.
Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
Just got too old.
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Cloggy Saint
- Old Skooler

- Posts: 8024
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: zummerzet
yes your probably wright. but it looks like i only need to remove dizzy cap and rotor/ 4 bolts. top cover comes off.
0n the m40. engine.
check it all by rotating engine on bottom pulley.
it was only done 19 k ago. I believe
the belts on these engines only drive the cam, so they should last a long time.
0n the m40. engine.
check it all by rotating engine on bottom pulley.
it was only done 19 k ago. I believe
the belts on these engines only drive the cam, so they should last a long time.
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minesapint
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 499
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 11:00 pm
- Location: Lancashire/Yorkshire border.
It's a brave man relying on a visual inspection on a timing belt is my view!
The service interval is 30000mls or 3 years, with some people saying 25000 or less, for the M40 according to the Wiki.
I'd be surprised if anybody on here would give any other advice than, if you're unsure....change it.
The service interval is 30000mls or 3 years, with some people saying 25000 or less, for the M40 according to the Wiki.
I'd be surprised if anybody on here would give any other advice than, if you're unsure....change it.
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miniblob
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3153
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- Contact:
When I had some wheel wobble and random tram lining, that didn't seem to change with alignment/balancing - it disappeared when I replaced both front tyres!!!
Though if you've swapped wheels front to back, etc, you should be able to tell!!!
(Mine had different size front and rear so I couldn't just switch them!!!)
Though if you've swapped wheels front to back, etc, you should be able to tell!!!
(Mine had different size front and rear so I couldn't just switch them!!!)
327 Touring with bass!!!
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o.k thanks for reply.
Ive got different front tyres on now. funny you mention tram lining , i did notice it behaves strangely when going over white lines, don,t know if thats anything to do with it. Like i siad in O.P it is better but not gone.
I was wondering if its warped disc , but then surely it would be terrible when i braked , i,ve fitted new pads all seems o.k there.
Ive got different front tyres on now. funny you mention tram lining , i did notice it behaves strangely when going over white lines, don,t know if thats anything to do with it. Like i siad in O.P it is better but not gone.
I was wondering if its warped disc , but then surely it would be terrible when i braked , i,ve fitted new pads all seems o.k there.
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
The speed range your problem is occurring in usually indicates a problem with something that is rotating at the same speed as the road wheels. Wheels and tyres are the obvious suspects, but drive shafts are another possibility, as are defective components which locate the suspension, such as bushes and ball joints, which can allow small imbalances in the rotating components to amplify and produce the vibration you feel.
Warped discs would normally produce at least a change in symptoms when you brake.
Warped discs would normally produce at least a change in symptoms when you brake.
o.k Thanks. I did notice on the front suspension sys there is no upper control arm, McPherson strut just goes straight in the turret , wonder if i have wear there , i have not check that. can i check that ? or should ask the Q how to check .
Hi Thanks, the lower control arm bushes that are called lollipops by some. Is that what your referring too.
they are attached via rubber to the rear end of the control arm. mine are not new, but didn,t have any play , i could not move the control arm by hand. but i think i need a better look. thanks again you maywell be right.
they are attached via rubber to the rear end of the control arm. mine are not new, but didn,t have any play , i could not move the control arm by hand. but i think i need a better look. thanks again you maywell be right.
Exactly what I was thinkingarrisbmw wrote:Hi Thanks, the lower control arm bushes that are called lollipops by some. Is that what your referring too.
they are attached via rubber to the rear end of the control arm. mine are not new, but didn,t have any play , i could not move the control arm by hand. but i think i need a better look. thanks again you maywell be right.
Many many moons ago I had a 325 touring that wondered horribly - lollipops looked and felt OK but application of a lever showed then to be unacceptably worn.
BTW Mr Moore is a god when it comes to E30's - any advice he gives should be followed
yes i have realized that Brian is the man whenit comes to E30's. thanks for the advise . i,ll take closer look at mine later and use some leverage to see if any movement. I don,t understand the different types you can buy to replace old , any recommendations meyle good make ? , whats this off set all about.
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Ordinary E30 control arm bushes have large chunks of rubber missing from the disc. E30 M3 control arm bushes have a solid rubber disc, so should last much longer. They also have the hole in the bush for the control arm pin moved from the centre towards the outside of the car, which has the effect of increasing the caster angle of the steering, giving more turn in 'feel'.
E36 M3 control arm bushes also fit E30s, are also made from solid rubber, but come in both eccentric, like the E30 M3, and concentric versions, like the ordinary E30, so by using E36 M3 concentric bushes, you can have the advantage of the solid bush, without changing the steering geometry if that's what you prefer.
The E30 M3 bushes and the E36 M3 concentric bushes appear to be identical, but they do have different part numbers.
E36 M3 control arm bushes also fit E30s, are also made from solid rubber, but come in both eccentric, like the E30 M3, and concentric versions, like the ordinary E30, so by using E36 M3 concentric bushes, you can have the advantage of the solid bush, without changing the steering geometry if that's what you prefer.
The E30 M3 bushes and the E36 M3 concentric bushes appear to be identical, but they do have different part numbers.
O.K thanks. so if i want solid bushes without altering the geometry . i,ll go for e36 m3 concentrics , hole in the centre.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Z3-3SER-E ... SwAydZu4rB
do you think these be o.k.
when i had another look at my bushes the off/side (near the exhaust down pipe) feels solid , but starting to crack and its not concentric like the other side, which it not adjacent to the hot exhaust.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Z3-3SER-E ... SwAydZu4rB
do you think these be o.k.
when i had another look at my bushes the off/side (near the exhaust down pipe) feels solid , but starting to crack and its not concentric like the other side, which it not adjacent to the hot exhaust.

found the issue one of my lollipops was shoot. came apart literally in my hand, when removed from under the car.
therefore i replaced both sides with meyle parts .
the L on drivers side is nearest the exhaust down pipe which has probably caused the rubber to come adrift from the inner bush, one on the other side was much harder to remove but in much better condition.
I appreciate any suspension related items should be replaced in pairs.
don,t know it image is view able.
The lollipop are the rear bushes on the front lower control arms.(wishbones) which are also connected via ball joints to subframe and front hub.
thanks every one on here for all your comments and valid advise. finally got it sorted.




