Hello all,
This is my first post in over a decade.
Tbh I'm not sure if I have ever posted on here but it would have been 2005/2006 if I did, my memory is not the best.
I own a E30 M3. It has been garage bound since around the above mentioned year for certain reasons. It has had no use and has not been started. It may have been rolled out of the garage once or twice since that time to take off the cover and have a perv but apart from that it has not had any use.
It has not been stored in any particular way compared to the time it was last driven. I am having inclinations about returning it to its former glory and keeping it in good and drivable condition from here forward, if it is financially viable to do so. The car is stored a distance away from me so I can't inspect it but I don't expect there to be any major rust.
I am no mechanical or bodywork expert. It's something I think I would enjoy but have never had the space or time to pursue those things.
What are the things that need to be done when a car has been lying idle like this? The last thing I want to do is cause any permanent damage and I'm sure there are some guys on here who have been through this before.
Also what are the typical price ranges to get a big overhaul done to make an E30 M3 into pristine condition? There must be different degrees of rebuilding from nut and bolt rebuild being most expensive to some other types and the prices of carrying out such work?
Many thanks in advance.
M3 lying idle.
Moderator: martauto
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bss325i
- E30 Zone Team Member
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Hi, 10 years is a long time for any car to be stored and not run and depending on how the car has been stored can have had a detrimental effect on the condition or it can have preserved it very well. Was it a warm dry ventilated space or a damp lock up?
Does the car roll? You may find that the brakes and/or clutch may be seized and these will need to be freed off.
First things to check is weather the engine still turns over. Remove the spark plugs, drop a little oil inside each cylinder and turn the engine over a few times by hand on the crank pulley at the front making sure it turns freely.
Then drain the engine oil and take not of its condition. It will take some time to drain as it will be cold but let it drain till its all out. Replace the oil filter with new and some fresh engine oil and then with a new battery or jump pack crank the engine over with the spark plugs removed until the oil pressure light goes out.
Before doing the above i would remove the DME relay to prevent the engine ECU trying to power the fuel pump and fire the injectors or at the least remove the fuel pump fuse.
Was the fuel tank full or empty when left parked up? If it was empty it may have internal corrosion from condensation and require replacement.
Regards, the fuel system would need to be drained down, a new fuel filter and most likely a fuel pump and even injectors removed and cleaned as on the S14 engine they are common for sticking shut after long periods out of use.
The fuel pipes will want blowing out of any old fuel and carefully inspecting for corrosion on the metal pipes and perished and split hoses, new rubber hoses is a good idea regardless.
Inspect the cooling system as this can cause internal corrosion problems if a weak coolant mix was left in the car, a visual inspection of the hoses and rad followed by a pressure test.
Radiators on S14 engines are common for leaking when left for long periods.
If the cooling system looks like it will not present any problems starting the car then you can skip any work needed there for the time being to see if it runs.
So after you have checked the engine turns over ok and you have good oil pressure then fit some new plugs, fresh fuel in the system then try to start it.
You may find it still won't fire and they may be a number or reasons why it doesn't such as no spark, no fuel and those will need to be diagnosed.
As for the rest of the car, a brake system overhaul including new hoses, rebuilt or new callipers, new pads and discs and fresh fluid.
Tyres will be old and hard at best, more likely cracked and not holding pressure so will need to be replaced either way.
Then its a case of inspecting all the suspension and steering components for condition.
As for costs, how longs a piece of string? To many factors into how much a rebuild or restoration would cost and weather you will be doing any of the work.
The biggest thing with E30's is the condition of the body and how rusty it is as this is the most expensive thing to repair on an E30. They can hide rust very well and normally if you can see rust on the outside it will be a LOT worse when you start digging.
Get some pics up as it will give us a better idea of what you are dealing with and can advise accordingly.
Does the car roll? You may find that the brakes and/or clutch may be seized and these will need to be freed off.
First things to check is weather the engine still turns over. Remove the spark plugs, drop a little oil inside each cylinder and turn the engine over a few times by hand on the crank pulley at the front making sure it turns freely.
Then drain the engine oil and take not of its condition. It will take some time to drain as it will be cold but let it drain till its all out. Replace the oil filter with new and some fresh engine oil and then with a new battery or jump pack crank the engine over with the spark plugs removed until the oil pressure light goes out.
Before doing the above i would remove the DME relay to prevent the engine ECU trying to power the fuel pump and fire the injectors or at the least remove the fuel pump fuse.
Was the fuel tank full or empty when left parked up? If it was empty it may have internal corrosion from condensation and require replacement.
Regards, the fuel system would need to be drained down, a new fuel filter and most likely a fuel pump and even injectors removed and cleaned as on the S14 engine they are common for sticking shut after long periods out of use.
The fuel pipes will want blowing out of any old fuel and carefully inspecting for corrosion on the metal pipes and perished and split hoses, new rubber hoses is a good idea regardless.
Inspect the cooling system as this can cause internal corrosion problems if a weak coolant mix was left in the car, a visual inspection of the hoses and rad followed by a pressure test.
Radiators on S14 engines are common for leaking when left for long periods.
If the cooling system looks like it will not present any problems starting the car then you can skip any work needed there for the time being to see if it runs.
So after you have checked the engine turns over ok and you have good oil pressure then fit some new plugs, fresh fuel in the system then try to start it.
You may find it still won't fire and they may be a number or reasons why it doesn't such as no spark, no fuel and those will need to be diagnosed.
As for the rest of the car, a brake system overhaul including new hoses, rebuilt or new callipers, new pads and discs and fresh fluid.
Tyres will be old and hard at best, more likely cracked and not holding pressure so will need to be replaced either way.
Then its a case of inspecting all the suspension and steering components for condition.
As for costs, how longs a piece of string? To many factors into how much a rebuild or restoration would cost and weather you will be doing any of the work.
The biggest thing with E30's is the condition of the body and how rusty it is as this is the most expensive thing to repair on an E30. They can hide rust very well and normally if you can see rust on the outside it will be a LOT worse when you start digging.
Get some pics up as it will give us a better idea of what you are dealing with and can advise accordingly.
Last edited by bss325i on Wed Dec 23, 2015 9:20 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Gert_8
- Married to the E30 Zone
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What colour is it? Any pics as I'm sure we would all love to see this. Why has it been idle for the last 14/15 years?
PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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ross_jsy
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Prepare your inbox for CASH £5,000 TODAY messages 
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Gert_8
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Lol!! - from Barry?
PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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bss325i
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Ha! I had to fend off plenty of those types when selling the White M3!
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Gert_8
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Stupid Ross! I was going to make an offer of £5500 and now you've spoiled it! 
PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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Jesus325iTouring
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Maths not your strong point Gertie?Gert_8 wrote: 14/15 years?
X5 V8 for thrills, CRV for chills, Range Rover P38 V8 for sooooo much aggravation...
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Gert_8
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Oops! 
I'd still like to know why it's been left to rot for so long
I'd still like to know why it's been left to rot for so longPONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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b4bmm
- E30 Zone Newbie
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BSS thanks for the response. Some great points there.
First of all let me just say again I'm not in a situation to check on the car or post pics.
I will do some digging and see what I can find from family members.
Im about a 25 Hr flight from the car so this for me is a fact finding mission for now more than anything, to help me decide when its worth trying to get it back on the road and how much it might cost? It could be the middle of next year before I can see the car again. Its like a long distance relationship!! Before I left I brought it to a garage where the owner owns an M himself and has experience with these cars and has prepared some for track days etc, to give it a thorough examination and do a list of what needed rectifying. I didn't expect to spend so much money to fix all the little bits recommended and got about half way through the list by the time I left.
The car is under a car cover, stored in a dry garage that is well ventilated. Probably not considered warm but has windows for natural light to heat it up a little on sunny days and is attached to a house so would have perhaps some heat from that. I dont think there would be much dampness. There are carpets on the ground in the garage and these would never be moist/damp and the inside of the windows are never damp.
When I brought the car to the garage there were some minor rust spots identified in the usual areas that are common with these. I had these sorted and gave orders that it was to be checked out thoroughly during that visit for any other rust, which there was none. The technician mentioned that it was one of the better ones he has worked on and said something about the seats that tells it was probably never tracked and led an easy life. Still very solid in its anchors or something like that?
The last time the car was rolled out of the garage could be anywhere from approx 5-7 years ago I would guess.
The fuel tank was most certainly not full but there would have been some fuel in there. Again I can't say for sure apart from that.
That list I mentioned above of what was recommended to do had the following tagged that would need replacing in the near future (at that time) but I was told it was not urgent but to keep in mind for the next visit (which never came). All of these would now need replacing I'm sure and a lot of what was mentioned here was covered in your post BSS and would need doing.
Suspension:
Replace rear anti-roll bar drop links and D rubbers,
Replace front anti-roll bar D rubbers,
Full geometry check and reset
Im sure there would be more work needed in this department
Brakes:
Replace rear discs, handbrake shoes and rear pads (becoming worn)
Replace flexible brake hoses (braided lines recommended)
Change break fluid and pressure bleed
Probably a complete overhaul of the breaking system needed?
Exhaust system becoming corroded (s/s system with D/cat recommended)
Replace 2x steel fuel lines (becoming corroded tank to engine)
Maybe a new fuel tank needed?
Would be grateful for comments with the given information above if you or others have any idea what the expected costs may be to do these things and the others that may be involved mechanically to get it right? I would also be interested to hear what can be replaced but improved upon at the same time, such as braided lines instead of standard and whether its worth doing these upgrades?
I am guessing the how long is a piece of string comment would be more regarding how much bodywork is required and that can only be ascertained with a hands on inspection which isn't possible at the moment.
Merry Christmas all, keep the beer flowing!
First of all let me just say again I'm not in a situation to check on the car or post pics.
I will do some digging and see what I can find from family members.
Im about a 25 Hr flight from the car so this for me is a fact finding mission for now more than anything, to help me decide when its worth trying to get it back on the road and how much it might cost? It could be the middle of next year before I can see the car again. Its like a long distance relationship!! Before I left I brought it to a garage where the owner owns an M himself and has experience with these cars and has prepared some for track days etc, to give it a thorough examination and do a list of what needed rectifying. I didn't expect to spend so much money to fix all the little bits recommended and got about half way through the list by the time I left.
The car is under a car cover, stored in a dry garage that is well ventilated. Probably not considered warm but has windows for natural light to heat it up a little on sunny days and is attached to a house so would have perhaps some heat from that. I dont think there would be much dampness. There are carpets on the ground in the garage and these would never be moist/damp and the inside of the windows are never damp.
When I brought the car to the garage there were some minor rust spots identified in the usual areas that are common with these. I had these sorted and gave orders that it was to be checked out thoroughly during that visit for any other rust, which there was none. The technician mentioned that it was one of the better ones he has worked on and said something about the seats that tells it was probably never tracked and led an easy life. Still very solid in its anchors or something like that?
The last time the car was rolled out of the garage could be anywhere from approx 5-7 years ago I would guess.
The fuel tank was most certainly not full but there would have been some fuel in there. Again I can't say for sure apart from that.
That list I mentioned above of what was recommended to do had the following tagged that would need replacing in the near future (at that time) but I was told it was not urgent but to keep in mind for the next visit (which never came). All of these would now need replacing I'm sure and a lot of what was mentioned here was covered in your post BSS and would need doing.
Suspension:
Replace rear anti-roll bar drop links and D rubbers,
Replace front anti-roll bar D rubbers,
Full geometry check and reset
Im sure there would be more work needed in this department
Brakes:
Replace rear discs, handbrake shoes and rear pads (becoming worn)
Replace flexible brake hoses (braided lines recommended)
Change break fluid and pressure bleed
Probably a complete overhaul of the breaking system needed?
Exhaust system becoming corroded (s/s system with D/cat recommended)
Replace 2x steel fuel lines (becoming corroded tank to engine)
Maybe a new fuel tank needed?
Would be grateful for comments with the given information above if you or others have any idea what the expected costs may be to do these things and the others that may be involved mechanically to get it right? I would also be interested to hear what can be replaced but improved upon at the same time, such as braided lines instead of standard and whether its worth doing these upgrades?
I am guessing the how long is a piece of string comment would be more regarding how much bodywork is required and that can only be ascertained with a hands on inspection which isn't possible at the moment.
Merry Christmas all, keep the beer flowing!
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Gert_8
- Married to the E30 Zone
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Either you're in the UK and the car in Australia or the other way round? What is the history on this, I'm intrigued
PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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Gert_8
- Married to the E30 Zone
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- Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: In your back passage faster than a rat up a drainpipe!
PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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BMG
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My M3 has sat dismantled for approx 10 years now and I've just started the rebuild. One thing that did surprise me was how little extra corrosion there is over than what was present 10 years ago. Dry storing it means even some of the exposed areas are really no worse. Had this been outside of more damp conditions then it would have been much worse, but in the right conditions and without any prep work it can pretty much remain static.
I would make an assessment of the car to see if the bodywork and engine has suffered in the way bss325i says and then think long and hard on if you want to commit to a project or sell as is.That may depend on body and engine condition. At least If you get the engine running and the car moving, it should at least add value If you then sell as a project.
If you go ahead with it I would pull everything off the underside of the car and rebuild the lot , all new hard and soft fuel and brake lines, rebuild the calipers and repaint all the suspension parts with new bushes.
The fuel tank and pumps will need checking and you can have a choice here with things like a new £900 BMW part if needed or a £200 repro tank.
One of the things I've learnt is to be realistic with what's needed and the cost. Small things soon add up to a big bill and even on things like the brakes and suspension I've needed just about everything - so newbrak discs, pads, brake lines hard and soft, brake pistons all round, caliper seals, bleed nipples, brake backing plates, handbrake shoes, handbrake cable, all the springs inside etc etc. The only good thing is there is at least a lot of choice and you aren't stuck with using BMW only parts.
Good luck with rediscovering your car.
I would make an assessment of the car to see if the bodywork and engine has suffered in the way bss325i says and then think long and hard on if you want to commit to a project or sell as is.That may depend on body and engine condition. At least If you get the engine running and the car moving, it should at least add value If you then sell as a project.
If you go ahead with it I would pull everything off the underside of the car and rebuild the lot , all new hard and soft fuel and brake lines, rebuild the calipers and repaint all the suspension parts with new bushes.
The fuel tank and pumps will need checking and you can have a choice here with things like a new £900 BMW part if needed or a £200 repro tank.
One of the things I've learnt is to be realistic with what's needed and the cost. Small things soon add up to a big bill and even on things like the brakes and suspension I've needed just about everything - so newbrak discs, pads, brake lines hard and soft, brake pistons all round, caliper seals, bleed nipples, brake backing plates, handbrake shoes, handbrake cable, all the springs inside etc etc. The only good thing is there is at least a lot of choice and you aren't stuck with using BMW only parts.
Good luck with rediscovering your car.
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Strugs
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Subscribed! 
E30 325i Cabriolet - for sale: http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=
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hennared323i
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Do you know if it is still where you left it?
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Split_S
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Having completely rebuilt an e30 318iS I can tell you its cost me about 15,000 USD and that's with me doing ALL the work. Everything except the actual painting. I haven't completed the project yet but its 75% done but all the parts have been purchased and I've nothing left to do except bolt all the goodies together. I have basically rebuilt it to NEW so that cost is on the high side of a rebuild IF you do things yourself.
I ALSO own an e30 M3 and I have redone the bottom of the car (fuel system - complete/everything regarding brakes/all new suspension/refurbished wheels. Prices for all of that are identical to a regular e30. Everyone says how expensive an e30 M3 is to work on but its not really true. The engine is where you will spend serious money if it is required. The rest of the car isn't overly pricey.
Prices for e30 M3s have skyrocketed this year and my unbelievable purchase price of 19000 USD last March is proving to be an awesome investment as the average m3 is now worth north of 50, 000USD.
I wont sell but it should give you an idea of what you have...
Fun but pricey...
I ALSO own an e30 M3 and I have redone the bottom of the car (fuel system - complete/everything regarding brakes/all new suspension/refurbished wheels. Prices for all of that are identical to a regular e30. Everyone says how expensive an e30 M3 is to work on but its not really true. The engine is where you will spend serious money if it is required. The rest of the car isn't overly pricey.
Prices for e30 M3s have skyrocketed this year and my unbelievable purchase price of 19000 USD last March is proving to be an awesome investment as the average m3 is now worth north of 50, 000USD.
I wont sell but it should give you an idea of what you have...
Fun but pricey...