Cab deadlock possibly engaged

[waj7d]

Last week one evening I noticed my car was making a clicking sound when parked up and locked (sounded like central locking)

The following morning I try to open the drivers door with the key and it simply would not open the door, I then try to open the boot and again it would turn but the boot does not open.

Before the issue occurred the passenger side door did not work with central locking so this did not deadlock so I was able to climb over the centre console and pull the door pin to open the drivers door.

The current situation is as follows:

before any of this occurred the central locking would only work from the boot, locking from the passenger or drivers door would only lock/unlock that specific door.

1) The boot will no longer open

2)The drivers side door turns but does not lock

3) Before the issue occurred the deadlock system did not work, as when inserting the cylinder key in the second barrel on the drivers door, did not activate i.e the red LED was not illuminating at the door or the boot..now when inserting the key it does illuminate

Any idea on how I can get the boot open? BTW its a 320i Chromie Cab 89'

Thanks in advance!

[BenHar]

The second keyhole with the light next to it is nothing to do with the deadlocks. It just sets the alarm.

Start here for central locking trouble shooting: http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... al_Locking

Ben

[waj7d]

Its just strange how the alarm did not work until the issue occurred... I will start with the trouble shooting, I have disconnected the central locking controller and the relay and I'm still unable to open the boot.. From my understanding the boot should then open unless the deadlock/second lock has been engaged which still on

[Brianmoooore]

The boot should be able to unlocked with the key, even if it is dead locked, but can only be opened by a master key, not a valet key.
Sounds like your car gave you plenty of warning that all was not well with the locking system, which you should have addressed then. Leaving things half working usually ends up with nothing working!
The clicking you heard when parked up is usually a sign of a flooded locking module, which in turn, is usually a sign of blocked sill drains. Unfortunately this tends to cook all the lock motors, including the deadlock motors.
Any sign of water ingress into the locking ECU?
Have you tried lifting the driver's door outside handle, while turning the key?

[waj7d]

Module is not damp/soaked...however on the night the central locking was making a noise it was quite damp/foggy..maybe a coincidence.

I've tried all keys for the boot and none are opening it. While having a inside the drivers door I found a mechanism with a switch (thin strip of metal makes contact with a metal tip) which has 3 wires coming out from it..this was laying at the bottom not connected to anything.

As you have mentioned...the boot should open regardless with the master key so I don't understand whats stopping me from opening it

[Brianmoooore]

Module is not damp/soaked...however on the night the central locking was making a noise it was quite damp/foggy..maybe a coincidence.

Module needs to be seriously soaked to cause problems. Damp air or fog won't cause any problem.

I've tried all keys for the boot and none are opening it. While having a inside the drivers door I found a mechanism with a switch (thin strip of metal makes contact with a metal tip) which has 3 wires coming out from it..this was laying at the bottom not connected to anything.

Sounds like a door lock heater, or the switch for an interior light delay. What colour wires go to the switch?

As you have mentioned...the boot should open regardless with the master key so I don't understand whats stopping me from opening it

The usual is a fried lock motor, preventing the key moving the shuttle bit back into place.

Connect a 12 volt bulb of at least 5W between the red/black and brown wires on the locking ECU plug, and check that it lights at full brightness.