Tire help

[Hsquad12]

hola chaps,
I just jumped picked up 1991 318is that's been parked under a tree for the last 10 years. Aside from some faded paint the body and interior are in great shape and the car was parked due to over heating issues which I plan to run down next week. (Am hoping for a tcpg...
This week I'm working on the fuel system, draining/flushing stuff and replacing fluids and I wanted to ask for some wisdom on tires.
The car is sitting on 7Jx15 cross-spoke rims with 205x55R15 tires which are dry rotted. I see in the factory brochures that those wheels were optional for the 325iX and not the 318is. they are also rubbing slightly on the plastic fairing under the car.....
Any suggestions on the best size of tire and rubber to keep things close to stock and without compromising the handling?
Thanks in advance.
E

[maggspower]

Hello there and welcome

The wheels, BBS RZ I think we are talking about, were an option on all 4 stud cars from when ever they were made available and are a very good wheel. The tyres too are the correct size, so you need to have a look for other reasons for the rubbing issues you have, lowering, badly fitted arch liners etc.

Having been sat for 10 years the cooling system is probably in need of a major overhaul. But check the head too for gasket/casting failure.

On the bright side, considering your location I would doubt that you will be suffering the rust issues we do over here

Good luck.

[magpie]

worn lollipop bushes and worn control arms would cause this

[Hsquad12]

Thanks guys.
The wheels on the car are styling
Styling 10
Sternspeichen-Styling shown here-
http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com
And I'm along way from buying new boots for her just yet.

This week I'm preparing the fuel system and engine before turning the key.
I've ordered 8mm high pressure fuel hose from pelican parts and plan to test the old fuel pump by using it to pump out the last of the rotten fuel while I wait for the hose and new filter to arrive. I'll also blow through the hard metal pipes with some carb cleaner and compressed air to blow out the worst of the mess. I've also got a set of o-rings on order for the injectors which I'll clean before pumping new fuel through to the engine. If the pump runs quietly I might replace the bag strainer at some point in the future.

As for the engine I plan to drain the old coolant tomorrow and will flush with water along with the radator which was replaced by the previous owner before he parked the car. I have a new thermostat on order and a pair of gaskets so for the first attempt I plan to assemble and bleed without the thermostat installed. The PO replaced the water pump too so I'm told.....
Before filling with water I'll drain the engine oil, remove & clean the sump and check the bolts for the oil pump and upper sump bolts, which I hear come loose. Then refil the motor with some basic oil and chemical to flush out the worst of the goo once I diagnose the water in oil problem.(which I hope to be the tcpg)
I've poored a little marvel oil in the cylinders to help free the rings and lube the cyls before I try turning the engine over by hand and checking compression.
And finally I plan to pull the valve gear cover and oil the chain gear and cams to help them before dry cranking.
Oh, and I'll remove the cam tensioner clean and lube also. If someone thinks that the piston will fly out the end of the tension once removed please let me know and I'll leave it alone until I buy a replacement.
Any advice to help me avoid common pitfalls would be appreciated (such as how to prime the engine oil).
Thanks in advance.