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cornershop
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:34 pm

Would appreciate some feedback on a 325i I went to see today

1989 325i 2dr
Metallic black
Auto (non switchable)
85k miles (backed up by mots from 39k)

Non sunroof model,
Beige comfort leather,
Aircon (not working, but converted to latest coolant)

Little service history or receipts

Looking for an estimate to sort :

Cam belt / tensioner / water pump (not changed in 9yrs/10k miles of ownership)

Scuttles corners - see pics - spendy?

Image

Image

Poor job on NSF wing - rust bubbling and the join with sill has been blended over - not very OEM. All arches and rear valance solid. Potential paint mismatch between OSF wing and door

Image

Potentially of most concern was a strange vibration coming from the back end when accelerating from a standstill - disappeared once moving and above say 20-30mph. No strange noises, just a vibration.

Original exhaust, recent subframe and ARB bushes - steering felt very tight.

Fan - replacement resistor pack supplied, only worked on 4th spd

Gearbox - not encountered a non switchable auto, does it drive differently to a switchable auto? Diff ratios? Changed pretty smoothly

Engine temp was solid at half way mark

Car is up for 2800 -

As there is no evidence of any fluid changes or any other work due to 'mates rates' at his local garage whilst in his ownership, this would be my first port of call along with cam belt etc.

Thoughts?
[/b]
magpie
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:11 pm

too much with those issues .
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m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds :)
Nobby_N
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:15 pm

Too much monies!
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S14M3
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:27 pm

Walk, no run away with that many issues
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cornershop
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 7:48 am

Thanks, i was thinking it was too much too

How much would that scuttle repair cost ? Or would that be the tip of the rust iceberg?

What could that vibration be from the rear? Fluid levels or more serious ?
SHAKEELE30
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:23 am

the vibration might be the propshaft doughnut bush thing... :D
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cornershop
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:01 am

Thanks chaps - I'm guessing its lack of use could be key with this car - 10k miles in 9yrs isn't a lot, plenty of time for bushes to go dry.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the scuttle?
suchy
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:04 am

The issues are fairly easy to sort- it's the asking price with those issues that's the problem.
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cornershop
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:16 am

Thanks - there is movement on the price, however I know he rejected an offer at 2k, so unsure if worth following up based on the work needed.
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pud1
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 11:49 am

Ive always looked at cars this way.. Whats the point in putting fancy fittings in a house if the walls are starting to fall down. Main issue is always going to be the rust. You can see the tip of the iceberg so there has to be another 70% lurking about somewhere in all the favourite places, and believe me.. it will be there. I think you need to price it with metalwork repairs in mind primarily.
Thing is that most of these cars we have are 25yrs old now. Its the nature of the beast, as they say..
Bit pricey I think. Haggle for closer to 2K or walk away.
polsta
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 12:05 pm

cornershop wrote:Thanks - there is movement on the price, however I know he rejected an offer at 2k, so unsure if worth following up based on the work needed.
2k for a rusty 325i auto with beige comfort interior ? Beige carpets head lining etc, Are you crackers ?
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cornershop
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:44 pm

:) quite possibly

Been away from e30 zone for a while so not sure of the market and prices
pacerpete
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:52 pm

To repair them scuttle corners involves removing the front wings , when the wings are removed , you will undoubtably (99% likely) find that the bottoms of the A posts and front floors are grumpy AND the seams where the flitches attach to the bulhead AND the bulkhead area around the main loom grommet. This little lot , assuming you are paying somebody, could go into four figures REALLY easily AND you still need to replace and paint the N/S wing :(

And now it time to take a screwdriver to the rear end ......


AVOID, at any cost unless you like welding. As for the geyser refusing 2k, he will regret that !
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cornershop
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 3:39 pm

Fair play - appreciate the work breakdown.

Would a sorted version of this car go for 2.8k ? Or would that be cheap?
pacerpete
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 3:54 pm

cornershop wrote:Fair play - appreciate the work breakdown.

Would a sorted version of this car go for 2.8k ? Or would that be cheap?
Maybe, BUT it would need to be NICE.

Have you had a REALLY close look at the rear arches/boot pockets/rear panel and rear suspension turrets ?
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cornershop
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 4:07 pm

Everything but the boot pockets I checked (wasn't sure how to remove the carpet). Arches had some minor bubbling on inner edge, outer face was fine.

I'll keep looking (and learning) - no rush as I still have my 190e 2.6 to enjoy.
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