Repair engine or buy second hand engine and fit...

[jbrunouk]

Hey zoners..

Need some advice as I have a 100k engine in my 325i which has not been run in 7 years.. I do know that one stud had one at the manifold and needed to be drilled out the head he. I last MOT'd it in 2005 but before parking it I know the manifold had gone and I last did the timing belt ten years ago..

I have seen an engine on eBay for 350 with new timing belt, tensioner and also manifold in good order attached.

Should I jut baulk on buying that and fitted it or should I repair and do work on current engine. Not knowing what issues it may have after getting it running again..

I wanted I know what you guys think and also if anyone has a low mileage engine possibly and how much it wil cost to replace the engine labour wise..

As really unsure...

[ajay]

It will cost you nothing much ( oil, coolant, filter) to get it running, so why not then take it from there!

[polsta]

personly, id always replace the timing belt on any "new" engine regardless, if you have a lot of history for your car/engine and had it years,and if its original engine for the car- just spend the £350 on your engine, think new engine- £350 + post/collection fuel, any labour costs, then all the fluids, and any "unforseen" problems, and the total gamble factor that its a good engine, why is it for sale id its just had timing belt etc done ? ,then a water pump etc you should do, you could easily do £600 ....so spend that on your engine , better the devil you know

[Jesus325iTouring]

It's down to economics, what you can do and who you know as well, my original engine had 240,000 miles on and many many oil leaks, same question arose, replace or repair.
With the help of the Zone and members Jonb & Scott, myself and Scott purchased a raggedy ass 525i from Jon for £260, I had the engine & box, Scott fragged the rest.
Over one weekend we pulled the 5 engine, my Touring engine and refitted the 5 engine into my Touring.

All in, 17 hours graft, and £130 later I had a top running engine, which incidently still put out 167bhp on the rollers, compared to the p1ss poor 130bhp my old engine was running!

[jbrunouk]

Hmm... I took the engine out of a another full service history 325i back in 2002, put just over 20'000 miles on it, just wondered if sorted the manifold studs would be difficult or expensive as heard have to drill the head to sort.. The engine did run fine although Ido remember it drinking/running a little rich back in the day.. I am worried about getting the engine running again though.. 7 years after it being stood in the garage.

While that engine on eBay I guess needs to have had am issue but they just classed as removed from 325 they upgraded.

http://bit.ly/13q3Zoa

You guys heard of the seller: BMW.e30devils

[Speedtouch]

100,000 miles is just about nicely run-in! Well worth a shot at fixing it up...

If there's some of the stud still protruding, the best way to remove it is to weld a nut onto it and undo it while it's still hot.

[Cloggy Saint]

130?? That's 1/4 of your horses escaped!

[leeparkes]

Nice.






Looks like its had a spray tan!




This is what id do vvvv

It will cost you nothing much ( oil, coolant, filter) to get it running, so why not then take it from there!

[FinalD]

As has been said, give yours the fresh parts etc. and see how it goes from there. The engine I fitted to mine (after the previous owner ruined a couple of pistons in the original engine) had been stood for 6 years or so and is now going strong with new oil, belts etc. etc.

[alan1272]

manifold studs can be easy if there is some stud protruding; if there isn't then it's probably a head off job but that gives you the chance to do stem seals, lap the valves in again, check the guides etc. all for the cost of a head set.

i've had great success with this type of extractor kit in the past:
http://www.google.co.uk/shopping/produc ... CFkQ8wIwAA

[daimlerman]

Any replacement engine should have the cambelt and waterpump changed before fitting,whilst it's on the garage floor with the gearbox attached,re-bushing the gear linkage makes a lot of sense as well.

Difficult bit of the existing engine is the broken exhaust manifold stud,I'll bet good money that it's the rearmost stud on number 6 cylinder!All but impossible to get at with the engine/cylinder head in the car,unless there's a bit of stud showing,of course.

DIYwise,I would opt for repairing what you have,head off,clean/refurb as needed and you are good to go.

However,if paying some-one else,it may well be cheaper to source and fit another complete s/h engine.

[sunnysr]

as said i would just fix the one you have ,especially if you are capable of doing it your self ,it doesnt take much time to take the engine out if you need to to get that stud out ,buying another engine it doesnt matter what the seller says. I bought one recently from a lad on the zone believing it to be good then after fitting found it wouldn't even attempt to start so stripped it down found 8 snapped rockers and a completely fooked head with some of the lobes of the rocker shafts snapped off ,also the valves were all bent but the cambelt was still on tight etc ,so without hearing an engine running first or atleast taking the rocker cover off i would just stick with what you have over second hand ,it could also have a million miles on as i seriously find it hard to believe how all these engines you see for sale are 100k milers

[B7]

£375 is a lot of money for just an engine you can't hear running! And as above, that looks like its had irregular oil changes. Also signs of oil down the front of the block which s common but not on an engine thats the thick end of 400 notes!! As that stands it's £225 and no more in my book.

If yours came from a fully historied car, get the stud done, change the belt and give it a fresh sump of oil.

Its a no brainer.