
'Sploded my block, rod took a dump. (Plus rebuild thread)
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E30_Crazy
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Haven't pulled the engine yet to see the full extent, but here's what I can see from top-side


Last edited by E30_Crazy on Tue Dec 10, 2013 8:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Speedtouch
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Streuth, you've really nailed that! 
What sort of revs were you doing?
What sort of revs were you doing?
Last edited by Speedtouch on Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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magpie
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that takes some doing,a 6-pot block weighs a tonne 

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
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E30_Crazy
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It revs up to around 7.5 or 8k, but it blew going about 2.5 or 3k cruising on the highway
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E30_Crazy
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Lost power, similar to breaking a rocker. But I figured it was the AFM freezing, like it has previously. Messes with the air/fuel over around 3 or 4k. I slowed down to allow the heat to build up in the engine bay to warm it back up, then bang. A thud, and some metal "tinking" sounds of the block bits hitting the exhaust. Saw the big blue smoke cloud of the oil burning on the exhaust. Turned the engine off right away and pulled off the road.
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magpie
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lot's of work ahead 

m52 b30 stroker 6-speed 318is Galvanizer
m42 touring
+ a yard full of scrap turds
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E30_Crazy
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Found a pre facelift 325e for $800. That'll have a block, rods(?) and crank if mine is warped or bearing faces damaged. Figure while I'm at it, I might as well build for boost, and get ready for my Rotrex build. Sleeves with 1mm overbore (to make it a 2.8 ) custom pistons, MAF, valves redone, etc.
Might get some lightweight rods if I can source some way up here.
Oh, and the donors panels will fit the Tech 1, to help with the restoration.
Might get some lightweight rods if I can source some way up here.
Oh, and the donors panels will fit the Tech 1, to help with the restoration.
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daimlerman
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Every cloud...E30_Crazy wrote:Found a pre facelift 325e for $800. That'll have a block, rods(?) and crank if mine is warped or bearing faces damaged. Figure while I'm at it, I might as well build for boost, and get ready for my Rotrex build. Sleeves with 1mm overbore (to make it a 2.8 ) custom pistons, MAF, valves redone, etc.
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Speedtouch
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Behind every cloud, etc.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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Simon13
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ouch, that won't of liked 7.5k 8k rev action forsure unless it was uprated.
I've a good 8.8 CR 2.5 bottom end here but your about 8000 miles away at a guess
I've a good 8.8 CR 2.5 bottom end here but your about 8000 miles away at a guess
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ross_jsy
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What have you done to the lump to allow such high rpm?E30_Crazy wrote:It revs up to around 7.5 or 8k, but it blew going about 2.5 or 3k cruising on the highway
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e30topless
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first time I have ever seen an M20 chuck a leg out of bed 
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verde
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Same, mine shattered a piston but the block itself actually stayed intact.e30topless wrote:first time I have ever seen an M20 chuck a leg out of bed
My guess is that the OP is in alaska and maybe the cold had something to do with it? Made the block Brittle ?
Marrakesh brown tech 2 LSx loading.....
Raise hell praise Dale.
North East Drift Club - Hollerboys Drift
Raise hell praise Dale.
North East Drift Club - Hollerboys Drift
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E30_Crazy
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I didn't do anything really. Bought it built by someone else. Has uprated valve springs to go with the schrick 288. 325e crank, 320 rods. Generic 2.7, minus the cam.ross_jsy wrote:What have you done to the lump to allow such high rpm?E30_Crazy wrote:It revs up to around 7.5 or 8k, but it blew going about 2.5 or 3k cruising on the highway
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E30_Crazy
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It didn't spend a whole lot of time in extreme cold. Kept it garaged. Short stops at the store. At work, I would go start it every 3 or 4 hours for 20 minutes.verde wrote:Same, mine shattered a piston but the block itself actually stayed intact.e30topless wrote:first time I have ever seen an M20 chuck a leg out of bed
My guess is that the OP is in alaska and maybe the cold had something to do with it? Made the block Brittle ?
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E30_Crazy
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It didn't spend a whole lot of time in extreme cold. Kept it garaged. Short stops at the store. At work, I would go start it every 3 or 4 hours for 20 minutes.verde wrote:Same, mine shattered a piston but the block itself actually stayed intact.e30topless wrote:first time I have ever seen an M20 chuck a leg out of bed
My guess is that the OP is in alaska and maybe the cold had something to do with it? Made the block Brittle ?
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billgatese30
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Did you leave it idling for these 20 minute intervals or did you keep the revs above 1500-2000 rpm?E30_Crazy wrote:Short stops at the store. At work, I would go start it every 3 or 4 hours for 20 minutes.
What oil were you using (SAE grade, not interested in brand).
When you strip it down, take a good look at the crank journals/big end bearings and small end of the rods & gudgeon pin on the piston and let us know how they look.
Was there any knocking from the bottom end at any time before its demise?
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snakebrain
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I'm not an expert, but I'd say that's fooked. 
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Jon_Bmw
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Looks like battery failure...
A rod went through it!
A rod went through it!
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Kos
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Nothing a bit of JB weld won't fix 
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E30_Crazy
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I would idle for a few, until the temp was around 1/4 up, then give it about 2k for abillgatese30 wrote:Did you leave it idling for these 20 minute intervals or did you keep the revs above 1500-2000 rpm?E30_Crazy wrote:Short stops at the store. At work, I would go start it every 3 or 4 hours for 20 minutes.
What oil were you using (SAE grade, not interested in brand).
When you strip it down, take a good look at the crank journals/big end bearings and small end of the rods & gudgeon pin on the piston and let us know how they look.
Was there any knocking from the bottom end at any time before its demise?
few to actually circulate the warm coolant.
Used 10w30 generally
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E30_Crazy
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Looking for a parts car. Do convertibles have all pre facelift panels, or just the tailgate/tail light panel? Namely the front wings, rear quarters (the wheel arch area, not the pillar obviously)
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andyp
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chemical metal sorts most things out
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E30_Crazy
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Would you be so kind as to elaborate on what chemical metal is? Is it like JB Weld?andyp wrote:chemical metal sorts most things out
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Morat
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We definitely need a full forensic examination of the carnage 
E30 Touring 0.35 cD - more slippery than prison soap 

Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!

Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!
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E30_Crazy
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Will do. Gotta wait til the guy renting my spare room ships his car, no room in the garage at the moment.Morat wrote:We definitely need a full forensic examination of the carnage
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Speedtouch
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Yes, Chemical Metal is similar to JB Weld.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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E30_Crazy
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Was that a joke, or would it seriously hold against heat and oil pressure?
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Speedtouch
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I personally wouldn't want to risk it with a hole that big - if I couldn't get a replacement block, I'd get it welded.
///M aurice
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
ECU Upgrade EPROM Chips, £40 posted within the UK. Note these are not Zone chips.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=279421
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E30_Crazy
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Anyone have an answer to this? Found another vert for sale. 95k milesE30_Crazy wrote:Looking for a parts car. Do convertibles have all pre facelift panels, or just the tailgate/tail light panel? Namely the front wings, rear quarters (the wheel arch area, not the pillar obviously)
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E30_Crazy
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Anyone have an answer to this? Found another vert for sale. 95k milesE30_Crazy wrote:Looking for a parts car. Do convertibles have all pre facelift panels, or just the tailgate/tail light panel? Namely the front wings, rear quarters (the wheel arch area, not the pillar obviously)
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E30_Crazy
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Got the engine out.. another hole on the other side by starter motor. I can see the piston is destroyed, along with a huge gouge in the bottom of the bore. Don't think the block is savable. I'll get more pictures once my phone decides to let me upload them.
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billgatese30
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If the holes aren't actually in the cylinder bore or near a load bearing part (i.e. near a crank journal) then I have seen several blocks held together with JB weld, although personally I wouldn't ever do it, it really is the pikeyest way of doing things. Either weld it or bin it and get another.
Not sure on the cabbie parts. I know that rear panel/rear arches are different, not sure if the front changes or not. You should be able to tell if you look at anywhere supplying panels as they should list pre/post facelift and cabbie/saloon as different part numbers if they are different.
Even if the entire bottom end is scrap, it would be worth pulling it apart to see if there is any indication as to why it let go.
Not sure on the cabbie parts. I know that rear panel/rear arches are different, not sure if the front changes or not. You should be able to tell if you look at anywhere supplying panels as they should list pre/post facelift and cabbie/saloon as different part numbers if they are different.
Even if the entire bottom end is scrap, it would be worth pulling it apart to see if there is any indication as to why it let go.
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E30_Crazy
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Trying the last several hours to pull it apart... so much junk and pieces in there that got tumbled to the rear while pulling the engine that it's fouled the fly/clutch and I can't get the box off. I'll pull the head and check if its all good, then roll the block and box down the drive and see if they separate haha.
I've been awake way too long...
I've been awake way too long...
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billgatese30
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Wow, that sounds properly screwed up. If in doubt, give it a clout!!! 

