Hello, I'm new to this site.
I've previously owned a 325i E30 a couple of years back and presently own a 306 GTi-6. I'm quite happy with the Pug for the time being but in about a years time I quite fancy a 325 Sport or possibly an E36 328.
I just want some info really on buying a Sport.
Firstly, would I be able to pick up a half decent one for around Ԛ£2500-Ԛ£3000?
Are the servicing cost quite high for these cars?
Is there anything that needs to be looked at before buying one? Also, what is the power output for the 325i Sport.?
Any advice would be much appreciated, cheers.
E30 Sport buying guide?
Moderator: martauto
-
nav786
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 2597
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Woking, Surrey
que mark(splondike).....
try doing a search mate its been covered plenty of times, mark wrote a very good buying guide
try doing a search mate its been covered plenty of times, mark wrote a very good buying guide

FOR SALE
SONY PSP'S £100
-
Splondike
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 2738
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Under my bonnet
Did someone call lol
Here you go dude - combine this with Pauls (placey) superb general buying guide and you can't go wrong
I especially liked the bit where you look in the owners bins to determine what sort of person they are
That was a classic. Anyway here is a cut and paste from my laptop...
There are a few fake ones around, if it says 325i Sport on the V5 thats a good start but not a cast iron guarantee, in the same way that a black headlining isn't. You can give the last 7 digits of the vin number to a BMW dealer and they can tell you or put it into this for a guide.
http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
If its got an LSD its more than likely to be genuine, you check this a couple of ways, stick the car in first give it a bag full of revs and drop the clutch, stop a few yards up the road and if you see two black lines it got a slipper, however the owner will probably be unimpressed ! Another couple of ways are to jack up the back of the car so both rear wheels are of the ground spin one wheel and watch the other, if it spins the same way its an lsd if it goes the opposite its not, or easier one is jack up one side and try to turn the wheel, if it is very hard to turn its a slipper. All these methods are quite tricky on a viewing to be honest. You can also lie under the back and try and find the tag on the diff which should say "S 3.91" if its a proper sport diff.
Remember condition is more important than mileage or history really, and with history recent work is more important than that of the late 80's or early 90's. When you drive the car watch the temp guage for signs of overheating, ie should sit between 1/4 and 1/2 and check inside the filler cap and dipstick for mayo which could indicate a cracked head / head gasket and instant expense which these cars do suffer from. Check for moisture in the boot as the seals can leak around the rear lights and cause further problems in the boot. Open the sunroof and check in there for rust, also check in the rear arches for signs of rot (they all go there) and also check the jacking points. Look at the scuttle and take out the plastic moulding to see if there is any rot within, can be tricky/expensive to fix. Open the rear quarter windows and check for rust on top of the rear wings, also the rear valance which can rot on the later cars. Be aware that these cars are prone to rusting under the body kit so have a good look where you can, you probably won't be able to tell all that much without taking the kit off, but you can gauge a fair amount from looking closely at where the bodykit meets the car from underneath.
Do make sure you have a really good look under the car, better to uncover problems before its sitting on your drive...On the road listen for usual clonks and drive train noise as you would with any car. Could be indication of worn prop or suspension bushes.
For an metch II sport it should have Power assisted steering, ABS, Electric Windows, Central locking, Electric mirrors, Electric tilt/slide sunroof, Opening Rear quarters, Sports interior, black headlining, Mtech I or mtech II steering wheel, Mtech suspension, Mtech II bodykit, Close ratio gearbox, Limited Slip Differential, Map reading lights, Velour type carpeting, Headlamp wash/wipe, it should sit about 15mm lower than a standard car, earlier cars up to 1988 have the mtech1 kit and slightly differing spec for trim etc.
Options include leather trim, OBC (they don't all have a computer which is a popular misconception), rear headrests, rear blind, air con, cruise control etc.
I personally would avoid anything slammed 60mm with a poorly executed ICE install, a massive exhaust system and a low quality induction kit, but you will know yourself it is a wrong'un.
Colours are - Diamond black , Lachs Silver and Dolphin grey for phase ones with Brilliant Red, Alpine white and some very rare Granite and Sterling Silver for the later cars...
Good luck with the search.
Here you go dude - combine this with Pauls (placey) superb general buying guide and you can't go wrong
There are a few fake ones around, if it says 325i Sport on the V5 thats a good start but not a cast iron guarantee, in the same way that a black headlining isn't. You can give the last 7 digits of the vin number to a BMW dealer and they can tell you or put it into this for a guide.
http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
If its got an LSD its more than likely to be genuine, you check this a couple of ways, stick the car in first give it a bag full of revs and drop the clutch, stop a few yards up the road and if you see two black lines it got a slipper, however the owner will probably be unimpressed ! Another couple of ways are to jack up the back of the car so both rear wheels are of the ground spin one wheel and watch the other, if it spins the same way its an lsd if it goes the opposite its not, or easier one is jack up one side and try to turn the wheel, if it is very hard to turn its a slipper. All these methods are quite tricky on a viewing to be honest. You can also lie under the back and try and find the tag on the diff which should say "S 3.91" if its a proper sport diff.
Remember condition is more important than mileage or history really, and with history recent work is more important than that of the late 80's or early 90's. When you drive the car watch the temp guage for signs of overheating, ie should sit between 1/4 and 1/2 and check inside the filler cap and dipstick for mayo which could indicate a cracked head / head gasket and instant expense which these cars do suffer from. Check for moisture in the boot as the seals can leak around the rear lights and cause further problems in the boot. Open the sunroof and check in there for rust, also check in the rear arches for signs of rot (they all go there) and also check the jacking points. Look at the scuttle and take out the plastic moulding to see if there is any rot within, can be tricky/expensive to fix. Open the rear quarter windows and check for rust on top of the rear wings, also the rear valance which can rot on the later cars. Be aware that these cars are prone to rusting under the body kit so have a good look where you can, you probably won't be able to tell all that much without taking the kit off, but you can gauge a fair amount from looking closely at where the bodykit meets the car from underneath.
Do make sure you have a really good look under the car, better to uncover problems before its sitting on your drive...On the road listen for usual clonks and drive train noise as you would with any car. Could be indication of worn prop or suspension bushes.
For an metch II sport it should have Power assisted steering, ABS, Electric Windows, Central locking, Electric mirrors, Electric tilt/slide sunroof, Opening Rear quarters, Sports interior, black headlining, Mtech I or mtech II steering wheel, Mtech suspension, Mtech II bodykit, Close ratio gearbox, Limited Slip Differential, Map reading lights, Velour type carpeting, Headlamp wash/wipe, it should sit about 15mm lower than a standard car, earlier cars up to 1988 have the mtech1 kit and slightly differing spec for trim etc.
Options include leather trim, OBC (they don't all have a computer which is a popular misconception), rear headrests, rear blind, air con, cruise control etc.
I personally would avoid anything slammed 60mm with a poorly executed ICE install, a massive exhaust system and a low quality induction kit, but you will know yourself it is a wrong'un.
Colours are - Diamond black , Lachs Silver and Dolphin grey for phase ones with Brilliant Red, Alpine white and some very rare Granite and Sterling Silver for the later cars...
Good luck with the search.
Mark.
-
placey
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1170
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: portsmouth
i'd forgotten about this!
buying tips thread
it's made me smile reading it. how i wish i could find the original!
paul
buying tips thread
it's made me smile reading it. how i wish i could find the original!
paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....


-
Splondike
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 2738
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Under my bonnet
Yeah that original was a corker...
The irony in that one you posted the link for was that Mahmood was referring to my car which he was viewing
How's your hunt for a sport going mate (sorry off topic
)
The irony in that one you posted the link for was that Mahmood was referring to my car which he was viewing
How's your hunt for a sport going mate (sorry off topic
Mark.
-
Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
- Posts: 22697
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Camberley, Surrey don't u know
Rust would be the main issue on sports, i think most will agree they have a little fetish for it.
Mark got me some leather rear headrests at last mate! hope u are good
Mark got me some leather rear headrests at last mate! hope u are good
-
Splondike
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 2738
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Under my bonnet
nice one Si ! I am fine thanks mate....
Missing the BM and all that, but the GSi is still providing a few comedy moments
Missing the BM and all that, but the GSi is still providing a few comedy moments
Mark.
-
HartgeH27
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 21737
- Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 11:00 pm
- Location: Chichester
Placeys 325i Sport buying guide is now a sticky under technical section, please remember for when newbies post up same question !!!!
-
crazylegs
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 5
- Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:00 pm
Thanks very much for the info bud, much appreciated. I will keep a look out for one in the next few months.
Cheers.
Cheers.
-
placey
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1170
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: portsmouth
si - the hunt for the sport goes on slowly. i've looked at 2 and not bothered starting either - one was dismissed from 3 paces away - grey with brown edges. there's no rush from my viewpoint. i've followed much of my own advice including making a nuisance of myself at snows in portsmouth!! the head salesman there even admitted that he 'wouldn't know an alpina if it jumped out and bit him' wow!
paul
paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....


-
HartgeH27
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 21737
- Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 11:00 pm
- Location: Chichester
I know of one which might be coming up and it is immaculate and original.placey wrote:si - the hunt for the sport goes on slowly. i've looked at 2 and not bothered starting either - one was dismissed from 3 paces away - grey with brown edges. there's no rush from my viewpoint. i've followed much of my own advice including making a nuisance of myself at snows in portsmouth!! the head salesman there even admitted that he 'wouldn't know an alpina if it jumped out and bit him' wow!
paul
-
placey
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1170
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: portsmouth
iain
m-tech 1? black? if so then please tell me more....
and cheers for stickying my guide...
paul
m-tech 1? black? if so then please tell me more....
and cheers for stickying my guide...
paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....


