HELP - GEAR BOX REMOVAL

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jonmsm
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Post Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:03 pm

Hi guys,

I've been looking over the haynes manual and as expected.. USELESS. I need somone who has removed a gearbox and replaced one before to tell me what I need to do roughtly and if there is anything I need to do or not do (as I am good at making school boy errors!)

Any help would be very much appreciated... and if any one wants to come and help me any time this week... I wouldn't say no! haha.

Thanks guys - I look forward to your advice :)
1986 e28 M535i (gone and missed)
1988 e30 320i cab (full resto STILL in progress)
1996 Volvo 850 T-5 estate (280bhp Turbo Nutter), T-5R (my precious)
1966 Fiat 850 saloon & 1970 Sport Coupe
C1 (go-kart)
E30Adam
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Post Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:15 pm

1. Remove exhaust system
2. Remove prop
3. Remove gear linkage
4. Undo bellhousing bolts
5. Support gearbox on jack
6. Undo gearbox mounts
7. Lower gearbox

Refitting is the reverse of removal.

If you have trouble undoing the top 2 torx bolts on the bellhousing, get a torx spanner from Halfords and undo from the top, much easier!
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2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch
jonmsm
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Post Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:29 pm

Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Do you work for Haynes ;)

Thanks for the advice, its knowing little things like that which help make a job like this easier and quicker... and I guess its handy I work at halfords if I should need a torx spanner! haha

thank :)
1986 e28 M535i (gone and missed)
1988 e30 320i cab (full resto STILL in progress)
1996 Volvo 850 T-5 estate (280bhp Turbo Nutter), T-5R (my precious)
1966 Fiat 850 saloon & 1970 Sport Coupe
C1 (go-kart)
E30Adam
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Location: Bournemouth

Post Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:33 pm

No probs mate, it's a pretty easy job.

The main thing to look out for is a tiny 10mm bolt that also holds the bellhousing and block together, make sure you undo this.

I also forgot to mention that the starter needs to come off.

The hardest bit about it is getting the input shaft of the gearbox to line up with the spigot bearing.
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2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch
dazleeds
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Post Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:36 pm

:yeahthat: :thumb:
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jonmsm
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Post Sun Aug 07, 2005 11:48 pm

awesome. Roughly how long do you think it will take. I have a whole week to play with but I am hoping to get on with the rear brakes which need swapping off and I also need to whoop the diff off my auto 535 and on to my manual... not sure if a week is going to surfice! ha!

Thanks again for the info :)
1986 e28 M535i (gone and missed)
1988 e30 320i cab (full resto STILL in progress)
1996 Volvo 850 T-5 estate (280bhp Turbo Nutter), T-5R (my precious)
1966 Fiat 850 saloon & 1970 Sport Coupe
C1 (go-kart)
Toby_Unna
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Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:24 am

the auto diff is the same ratio as the manual though right? i think it is anyway.

might nip round and have a look sometime this week then, i'll buy that fuel pump off you if it's still there :cool:
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jonmsm
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Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:29 am

morning Toby,

I am not sure about the two diffs, but the auto has a good working LSD as I prooved on many an occasion but the manual seems to have either a naf LSD or non at all.

Anyhow, deffo come on over when ever your free for that pump *still got to get it out.. but then I need the tank off anyway cos the manual has a leak now*... also, do you know anything about Aud's? We have a new 5pot 2.3 engine arriving in about 30 mins (where else do you see an engine delivered at 1am! haha) which is going into a coupe quattro this week which should be... interesting! LOL

gimmie a shout if your popping over ( 07739 321 121 ) as they have changed the way into the compound now... and there are no neighbours to complain about noise now so we can race about the compound as much as we like! hehe.
1986 e28 M535i (gone and missed)
1988 e30 320i cab (full resto STILL in progress)
1996 Volvo 850 T-5 estate (280bhp Turbo Nutter), T-5R (my precious)
1966 Fiat 850 saloon & 1970 Sport Coupe
C1 (go-kart)
E30Adam
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Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:31 am

Auto and manual diffs are the same, you just need to check the ratio's are correct for the application.

I'd say a week is more than enough time. Are you swaping an auto and manual box over or just swapping a manual for another manual.

Auto boxes are a tighter squeeze and I've never actually had to do one although I'm sure there isn't a lof of difference apart from the torque converter. I'll be converting my girlfriends E30 from an auto to manual in the next couple of weeks.
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2.8 Litre M20 powered - Essen Sie meinen Staub biatch
Toby_Unna
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Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:32 am

:cool: a race it is then!

will nip over, sorting my blue m535i ready for sale so no doubt a few bits i can steal when ur not looking :teehee:

no seriously will come over, audi sounds interesting. is it the 10v engine then?
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Jos
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Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 1:00 am

torque convertor can be a bugger, on the M30 you have to take the bottom inspection plate off 1st and undo the torque converter from the flywheel, 4 bolts, easy enough to undo, just need to rotate the engine to get at them, then once they are loose you need to pull like a good'un to get it free. Not sure if the M20 is the same, but if it is there's a little heads up.
'89 Touring - slightly rippled with a rusty underside
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jonmsm
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Post Mon Aug 08, 2005 1:39 am

hey guys,

thanks for all the input. The auto is nothing to worry about just yet, its just the diff im swapping from an auto to a manual on my 5 series. the gearbox swap is on my 3 series from my breaker and is manual to manual thank god...wouldnt want to be changing from one to the other Adam, looks too complicated for me, new pedal box and all sorts there mate! hehe

Toby, how comes your selling the 535?? also, the audi is a 10v (non turbo unfortunately) and the engine arrived successfully 30 mins ago in a renault scenic which didnt look to be enjoying the extensive weight of the audi lump! hehe!
1986 e28 M535i (gone and missed)
1988 e30 320i cab (full resto STILL in progress)
1996 Volvo 850 T-5 estate (280bhp Turbo Nutter), T-5R (my precious)
1966 Fiat 850 saloon & 1970 Sport Coupe
C1 (go-kart)