RUST Help !!!!
Moderator: martauto
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Welding with a MIG is all about cleanliness of the bits you are welding and setting up the welder.
Once this is done, it's like colouring in with a felt tip pen!
Once this is done, it's like colouring in with a felt tip pen!
Im a caretaker at a school and we have a mig welder there,I cant seem to get the hang of it.We also have a std welder (with the rods) sorry I cant remember what they're called,which I am starting to get the hang of.
Is there anything I need to concider,I cant help thinking,being a newbie,that if you attatch 230v to a car body surely everything would fuse.....obviously this isnt the case....how is this ,is it because its earthed?
Oh im also popping down to a breakers tomorrow to cut out the peice i need.
Is there anything I need to concider,I cant help thinking,being a newbie,that if you attatch 230v to a car body surely everything would fuse.....obviously this isnt the case....how is this ,is it because its earthed?
Oh im also popping down to a breakers tomorrow to cut out the peice i need.
-
Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Voltage output from a welder is only 60 volts or so, and it IS advisable to keep the welder current path as short as possible when welding cars, by attaching the welder 'earth' clamp as close as possible to where you are welding.
Especially take care not to pass the welding current through any bearings, or you may weld the balls to the races.
A good MIG weld is easier to produce than a good stick weld.
Play with the settings on the MIG until you get a continuous arc that sounds like frying bacon, then it's just colouring in!
Especially take care not to pass the welding current through any bearings, or you may weld the balls to the races.
A good MIG weld is easier to produce than a good stick weld.
Play with the settings on the MIG until you get a continuous arc that sounds like frying bacon, then it's just colouring in!
-
Bob_S
- Engaged to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 5412
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: chester, cheshire
kuntz_de wrote:oakey, you had some holes patched up, hardly the most difficult of jobs, but for £500 which ia a reasonalble price i would be happy, but i wouldnt want to see the welds. you say you have no intention of selling the car, but either way be it selloing the car, or keeping it i'd want a job done thats no noticable. if you are selling it then i can understand not doing the best of jobs,but as along term keeper i'd want it A1.
just my thoughts again
anyway i think its time i left this subject alone, and moderators/team members i dont think there is any need to lock it up. its just different schools of thought and observations, but here's an observastion for you, 2 personal unproveked "digs" at me for my user name is a bit below the belt. i thought this would have stopped when i left school 15 years ago.
are you kos?
Bollocks to this 24v scrap!
Bob_S wrote:
are you kos?
............ but just to answer your question as i think its rude to not answere any question, no i am not.kuntz_de wrote: anyway i think its time i left this subject alone
but i do recall the M3 he was building an e30 M3, with a full body restoration, that re build / project thread seems to have gone last time i looked for it and check its progress
-
ChrisBarns
- ConvertibleChris
- Posts: 519
- Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Norwich
Get it fixed by a professional. I think the "your car is doomed" guys hadn't read the bit about milage / condition of the rest of the car. Reshelling hell of a job to save a few hundred on a repair.