RUST Help !!!!

[tommyvod1]

Hello everyone, I need some help with curing the rust around my boot sill,as you might see its been bodged in the past and had started to open up again,so I went at it with a screw driver and a wire brush to see the extent of the damage.
I understand I really need to sand or cut back to all good metal and then either weld some new metal back in (I cant weld) or maybe just resin and glass matting as im somewhat of a novice......

How much would an accident repair center charge?
Weld or fibre glass?
Anyone in the south east area fancy helping for a little dollar?

[Turbo_maniac_wayeda]

i wd40 my boot and engine bay regular....
but that boot looks battered

[AlexBaur325]

If you just close the boot and never open it again it'll cease to exist. Simple.

[tommyvod1]

Thanks but i dont think WD40 will fix it, ill try it though.....WD does claim to have a million uses!!!

[Turbo_maniac_wayeda]

mate dont take it wrong, i dint mean to say that it will fix the problem.... (i reckon welding job)
Wd40 helps alot, i had alot of jap cars that had rust problem but when i used the wd40 regular it did help alot

[maxfield]

That's bad!

Better find someone with a welder, and plenty of metal.

[tommyvod1]

Nah only jokin,yeah i was thinking weld job too if only it was summer....ive gotta try to stop water pouring into my boot.

[oakey]

You need a welder matey

[Z3I]

If the boots in this shape, then the rest of the car must be similar? Dont take it wrong (again) but it looks like this paticular car has come to the end of its life, theres plenty others out there with next to no rust for the price it will cost you to have boot properly repaired on its own. If the rear wheels arches and cills have rust too, then the strength of the shell will be compromised, and your safety in a shunt even worse than it already is! Break it, and put the money towards another E30, theres plenty of good ones out there.

[tommyvod1]

I'd need to cut out alot! then what??
would I need to shape metal like so.....

[Z3I]

If you are really serious about welding, then I'd ask someone like Spadge if he is breaking a saloon, and cut the same piece out of another shell thats ok in that area. And looking the pics again, I wonder if its the location of a repair-gone-rusty of the past anyway?

[Turbo_maniac_wayeda]

get rid of the car mate imo

[tommyvod1]

Supprisingly the rest of the car is tip top its an 1986 318i with 58k on the clock,an old couple owned it from new and im the 2nd ownerive had the carpet up seats out etc no rust all original undercoat in tact....so hopefully this is the worst of it...cost me £300

[gooner1]

As Z3I has already stated. Would have good look at the rest of car before making any decisions.
Have a look on realoem ,as im pretty sure that section can be replaced.Dont quote me on that that though.

[tomze30]

get rid of the car mate imo

x2

...if you do, I'm looking for some pre-facelift bumpers

[ivqii]

1 - take your engine and gearbox etc out
2 - sell the car to the crushers - £50?
3 - find another car wtih a good shell and a fucked engine - plenty around and you will pay peanuts

result - youll have a great e30 for under a grand

[tommyvod1]

found this on realoem but not in stock.
Im thinking I might shop around a few body repair shops see what they think,think its out of my league.

[Turbo_maniac_wayeda]

Its up to you mate... but i reckon its not worth doing because first your safety....
if you get it welded for cheap money(which i dnt think) it would probably be a rubbish job...
i think grab yourself a shell and you got the engine gearbox etc just change it over...

GOOD LUCK WITH WHAT EVER YOU DO....

[Turbo_maniac_wayeda]

(which i * I tried to use text speak but the text speak filter stopped me * think)

WHAT WENT WRONG???

[tommyvod1]

ok well thanks for all your help,It has pointed me in the right direction.I'll have a good think about all your suggestions and see what I think is the best...must agree engine swap sounds an idea but as only other mode of transport is a motorbike ill be waiting till summer untill i make any further plans.

Sure to be asking stupid questions in the near future..... TOM

[pacerpete]

That is quite a common problem on cars that have had a rear panel change. Not a difficult repair for a competent welder or get the P40 out !! Remember, fibreglass don't rust , so JonB says !

[tommyvod1]

yeah concidering the cost of the car i think p40 and a lot of glass matting will be the way im gonna go, for now anyway.

[HairyScreech]

right, im going to side with pacerpete and shoot most of the doom sayers down. thats not as bad as it looks and is probly caused by the rear panel being done at somepoint or damage from putting somthing in the boot that hasnt been delt with, its hard to tell in the pictures but does it continue around onto the wing or is it just in the shut? if its just in the shut then your looking at less that 200 notes to get it sorted. certainly not worth sending an otherwise fine chromeie to the crushers for.

god if that was on a mini it would be considerd normal or a feature.

[oakey]

Definately not worth breaking the car for! If the rest of the car's good then keep it! I love old chromeys.

Thats no more than a £100 bit of welding maximum. You need to be prepared that when it does get welded it will probably damage the paintwork slightly

[HairyScreech]

its the end of that wing thats the issue, as long as that dosent need andy thing doing to it then it should be possible to only damage the paint in the boot shut.

[bmwsport]

As the rust is not on view with the boot down so to speak the paint job does not have to be superb once welded up. Plus the paint is black so will be easy to match up with a cheap gloss black rattle can. Deffo worth fixing dude, not a reason to send it to the scrappers unless the rest of the body is fecked. Rip it apart, check inner rear arches from inside the boot and behind rear quater panel armrests cards. Check front wheel arches, take all plastic liners out and have a bloody good poke. Any rust should be obvious. Also check boot wells either side, surface under washer fluid bottle, scuttle, sunroof etc. If completely rust free its defo worth doing

Or even better you can buy a decent welder for under £100, its good practice/fun and even a novice can get the hang of it quickly. If any other rust appears later down the line (and it will) it wont cost you anything to put right.

[oakey]

^, I mean that the heat generated from welding that area could cause the 'visible' paint to react

[kuntz_de]

right, im going to side with pacerpete and shoot most of the doom sayers down. thats not as bad as it looks and is probly caused by the rear panel being done at somepoint or damage from putting somthing in the boot that hasnt been delt with, its hard to tell in the pictures but does it continue around onto the wing or is it just in the shut? if its just in the shut then your looking at less that 200 notes to get it sorted. certainly not worth sending an otherwise fine chromeie to the crushers for.

god if that was on a mini it would be considerd normal or a feature.

agreed, for a COMPETANT welder

Definately not worth breaking the car for! If the rest of the car's good then keep it! I love old chromeys.

Thats no more than a £100 bit of welding maximum. You need to be prepared that when it does get welded it will probably damage the paintwork slightly

what planet are you on ? thats more than £100 worth of weldinding and work . or you just factroing "time to weld" even so, at £25 an hour ( a cheapish labout rate ) i'd say there is more than 4 hours work to sort it out properly. cutting out and cleaning the rusty area, ( and i'm sure there is more than what you see int he photos) and cutting shaping metal to weld in, making sure its all lines up correctry, then grinding welds back and flat, to primer, then some filler to shape it, or leading if you dont want to use filler. then theres painting it.

so in all, its bit more than "100 quid tops mate" , a blind idiotic stab in the dark estimate

you give the man hope with that statement, when in reality will cost more by the time its finished and painted

[Jesus325iTouring]

right, im going to side with pacerpete and shoot most of the doom sayers down. thats not as bad as it looks and is probly caused by the rear panel being done at somepoint or damage from putting somthing in the boot that hasnt been delt with, its hard to tell in the pictures but does it continue around onto the wing or is it just in the shut? if its just in the shut then your looking at less that 200 notes to get it sorted. certainly not worth sending an otherwise fine chromeie to the crushers for.

god if that was on a mini it would be considerd normal or a feature.

agreed, for a COMPETANT welder

Definately not worth breaking the car for! If the rest of the car's good then keep it! I love old chromeys.

Thats no more than a £100 bit of welding maximum. You need to be prepared that when it does get welded it will probably damage the paintwork slightly

what planet are you on ? thats more than £100 worth of weldinding and work . or you just factroing "time to weld" even so, at £25 an hour ( a cheapish labout rate ) i'd say there is more than 4 hours work to sort it out properly. cutting out and cleaning the rusty area, ( and i'm sure there is more than what you see int he photos) and cutting shaping metal to weld in, making sure its all lines up correctry, then grinding welds back and flat, to primer, then some filler to shape it, or leading if you dont want to use filler. then theres painting it.

so in all, its bit more than "100 quid tops mate" , a blind idiotic stab in the dark estimate

you give the man hope with that statement, when in reality will cost more by the time its finished and painted

I agree with Oakey,my body work chap could sort this out for £100

[kuntz_de]

cut out rust and clean up area , shape metal and tack it up to line it all up , weld it up, grind away welds flat , some filler work and re shape it all, then primer and paint ?

£100, good luck

if you supply a section cut from an other car, and get them to cut out infected are and welded in the new peice possibly it can be done for £100.

[tommyvod1]

I agree it did seem rather strong to suggest scrapping coz its a great little car otherwise.

[oakey]

right, im going to side with pacerpete and shoot most of the doom sayers down. thats not as bad as it looks and is probly caused by the rear panel being done at somepoint or damage from putting somthing in the boot that hasnt been delt with, its hard to tell in the pictures but does it continue around onto the wing or is it just in the shut? if its just in the shut then your looking at less that 200 notes to get it sorted. certainly not worth sending an otherwise fine chromeie to the crushers for.

god if that was on a mini it would be considerd normal or a feature.

agreed, for a COMPETANT welder

Definately not worth breaking the car for! If the rest of the car's good then keep it! I love old chromeys.

Thats no more than a £100 bit of welding maximum. You need to be prepared that when it does get welded it will probably damage the paintwork slightly

what planet are you on ? thats more than £100 worth of weldinding and work . or you just factroing "time to weld" even so, at £25 an hour ( a cheapish labout rate ) i'd say there is more than 4 hours work to sort it out properly. cutting out and cleaning the rusty area, ( and i'm sure there is more than what you see int he photos) and cutting shaping metal to weld in, making sure its all lines up correctry, then grinding welds back and flat, to primer, then some filler to shape it, or leading if you dont want to use filler. then theres painting it.

so in all, its bit more than "100 quid tops mate" , a blind idiotic stab in the dark estimate

you give the man hope with that statement, when in reality will cost more by the time its finished and painted

Mate, try and refrain yourself from rude comments such as "what planet are you on". If you think I'm wrong feel free to tell me but politely please! Whats with people's lack of respect and common decency?!

Have a look at my "pimp my tech1" thread in the photo gallery. The pictures only show about 2 thirds of the welding work carried out and that came to a grand total of about £500. I can only pass comment about things from MY experience and from MY experience what I have said is the truth.

Also I meant £100 for welding work, obviously painting is extra.

I had both rear arches replaced and painted a couple of years ago and that came to £600 -vat.

Fair enough though £100 is maybe cheaper than what most people would pay for this to be fixed by a random bodyshop.

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

fix it! who remembers mine i spent £500 on welding new cills, rear arch, new tryes, link rods and mot so how much would the welding have set me back bout £300 i say

[HairyScreech]

what planet are you on ? thats more than £100 worth of weldinding and work . or you just factroing "time to weld" even so, at £25 an hour ( a cheapish labout rate ) i'd say there is more than 4 hours work to sort it out properly. cutting out and cleaning the rusty area, ( and i'm sure there is more than what you see int he photos) and cutting shaping metal to weld in, making sure its all lines up correctry, then grinding welds back and flat, to primer, then some filler to shape it, or leading if you dont want to use filler. then theres painting it.

so in all, its bit more than "100 quid tops mate" , a blind idiotic stab in the dark estimate

you give the man hope with that statement, when in reality will cost more by the time its finished and painted

Mate, try and refrain yourself from rude comments such as "what planet are you on". If you think I'm wrong feel free to tell me but politely please! Whats with people's lack of respect and common decency?!

i though that was quite funny, no ones had a rant like that on the zone for a while.

and relax.

[ucpsale]

Hello, i can cut those sections from a vehical i have, cost of postage or collect, 07854 930129. Thanks