Subframe bushs(done) poly bushes...etc etc

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tonyppe
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Sat Oct 14, 2006 11:14 pm

ok, big cheers to StuartGallafant for the diff eye bush, and tips earlier!

i have now replaced my prop, centre bearing, subframe, and bushes

subframe was turning in to be a git to get out. we were hanging off it and everything, i weigh 12.5 stone, the other bloke is about 16ish - no budging.
called stuart (cheers again) but i think it was we couldnt be bothered to lift the seats up (well i didnt want to really lol) so we got a copper hammer thing and bashed the bolt up that holds the subframe in. this loosened the bolt and then it come down with a wiggle as advised.
next we set fire to the old bushes and knocked them out.
time was getting on and his wife kept calling so we left the trailing arm bushes (they looked in good condition anyway definatly nothing to worry about) i will get them done when the LSD goes in :)

well all feels good, the poly bushes make you propper feel the road, you can feel the road surface propper. also the car loves going sideways even though its dry, it didnt like it much before. i suppose all the power was just moving all the bits about on the fecked rubbers. the power gets put down now.

next step : engine bay - alternator belt, fan coupling, stud drilled out of head, plugs, oil + filter, gearbox oil change and strut brace to go on. and engine bay jet wash i think :)

does anyone advise any company that would drill out my stud in my head (its the one closest to the rad so loads of room when the water bottle is removed) i have a 6 cyl

stu, im puzzled as to how you remove the subframes without a ramp. also my diff was being held in by 2.5 bolts to the subframe 8O
i also copper slipped al springs and rubber bits that hold them in, and also the poly anti rol bar bushes = no more suspension creaks lol :)
and the wheels light up when changing to 2nd gear :)
whipsey
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:52 am

so whats the easiest way togt the rear subframe bushes out?
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tonyppe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:01 am

well once the subframe is out, stick it in a vice, and set fire to the rubbers from underneath. we used a bunsen burner type thing with a little gas bottle on it. oxy-acetalyne will work well too

once the bushes were burning we kept doing it a bit more then hammered them out. next thing was to clean the bores so the new bushes went in nicely, and also clean the outside of the subframe where we put the heat, and then re-paint it.
them poly bushes are like rock hard plastic you know!
whipsey
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:04 am

do they come in two pieces like the fron control arm ones or are they a complete bush?
Last edited by whipsey on Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
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tonyppe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:06 am

they come in three pieces. the main poly bush, the top poly cap that goes over the top, and the stainless steel sleeve that the bolt drops down through.
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:08 am

makes it slightly easier then how much did they cost i saw someone on the zone saying they can get a 20% discount on them but he hasn't got back to me about them yet its kinda urgent for the mot
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tonyppe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:35 am

try zone motorsport, they are cheap. do a google search :)
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:37 am

tonyppe wrote: the car loves going sideways even though its dry, it didnt like it much before.


and the wheels light up when changing to 2nd gear :)
You've reduced lateral grip and you've reduced traction, and you think it's an improvement?????
ed325i
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:39 am

whipsey wrote:makes it slightly easier then how much did they cost i saw someone on the zone saying they can get a 20% discount on them but he hasn't got back to me about them yet its kinda urgent for the mot
Just go to the link here >> http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... ic&t=15274

The 20% is already off
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tonyppe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 3:15 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
tonyppe wrote: the car loves going sideways even though its dry, it didnt like it much before.


and the wheels light up when changing to 2nd gear :)
You've reduced lateral grip and you've reduced traction, and you think it's an improvement?????
i do indeed, dont want to get done for speeding now do i haha

the car feels more solid, quite a bit more.

its just the feeling when your 60degrees to the way your going, and looking out the passenger window,
or the other way, when your looking out the drivers mirror to make sure your back bumper doesnt clip the bollards while your going down a one way street at 1 am :p

i havnt really reduced lateral grip or traction. what ive done is made it so that more power gets transferred to the wheels. if this means that the traction breaking point is reached easier with less throttle, then its a good thing, as then i can now adjust my foot position and back off, feather or tap the throttle to give more acceleration (20% slip is the recommended)
this will also save fuel, and cost more on tyres lol
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 4:14 pm

tonyppe wrote:ok, big cheers to StuartGallafant for the diff eye bush, and tips earlier!

called stuart (cheers again)
no worries mate!
tonyppe wrote:stu, im puzzled as to how you remove the subframes without a ramp
coz im a trooper, and i just get on with the job!!!
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tonyppe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 6:11 pm

coz im a trooper, and i just get on with the job!!!
yeah yeah lol
but how do you even get the old bushes out?
stuartgallafant
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 6:37 pm

heat 'em up with a blow torch, then use the special tool to pull 'em out...

then, when i out 'em in, i heat the subframe insert up, cover the bush in red grease or fairy up liquid, and press them in using a spacer and a trolley jack! remove the spacer, jack the subframe mount into the hole, put in bolt, put on plate, and do the bolt up... quick cuppa tea, then do the otherside! :wink:

im the bollox mate!
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tonyppe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 6:42 pm

well good on you lol.

my poly bushes say in caps DO NOT USE GREASE ON OUTSIDE OF BUSH tho, so we couldnt do that
stuartgallafant
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 6:50 pm

yeah, thats because you'll get some monkey come along and put copper grease, or super-lube on there, which will perish the rubber!!

then again, i suppose you used poly's didnt you, so i wouldnt know the score with that! im pretty sure you could still use fairy up liquid or red grease
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tonyppe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:13 pm

the poly bushes come with copper grease in little tubes for you to get the sleeves in :)
cliffybabe
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Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:46 pm

Stu like his lub dont ya fella :wales:
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stuartgallafant
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Mon Oct 16, 2006 9:40 pm

oh yes!!
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cliffybabe
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Mon Oct 16, 2006 9:42 pm

stuartgallafant wrote:oh yes!!
:lol:
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ravennexus
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Tue Oct 17, 2006 5:27 pm

i did a complete poly bush swap on my old volvo 244 last year and found that rather then setting fire to the rubbers as i'd been told (which is very smokey and smelly and leaves burnt rubber all over the fucking place)

the best method i'd found is to heat the inner steel shaft which should drop out as it becomes unstuck from the rubber.
then once thats out move on to heating the outer shell/suspension peice which will unstick the rubber from the outer steel shell you can they usually remove this whole leaving a nice nearly clean space to slip your poly bush in.

this is the rear mount for the front control arm on the 244, as you can see the heating the sheel mether left the orginal steel shell in place for the new bush in with and all that was needed was just to wipe out with a rag (carefully as could be hot) to get the still liquified rubber on the surface out.

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tim_s
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Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:05 pm

yeah i used a similar method to the above (heating the subframe) to remove my subframe bushes and it worked well... after i'd got the sodding subframe detached from the car.
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tonyppe
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Wed Oct 18, 2006 8:49 am

just make sure you clean the inside of the bore thoroughly. we used some type of sander. and then sprayed the heated area with paint once we had cleaned the soot off
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