How old is my car really?

[vonmarshall]

I have a 320i convertible that was first registered in the UK on 1st August 1988.

It has the pre-facelift body / bumpers which I believe is correct because the convertibles were made in a different factory and were not facelifted until late '89.

I also understand that convertibles were slower to sell so I wondered when my car was actually made. Reason I ask is I need to replace 1 or 2 of the electric window motors but there was a change of motor in early '88. I know I need to take the door-card off too see what is underneath but wanted to know if there was a way of finding out when my car was actually made and not just registered.

[paultv]

Put you vin here or similar place, should give you the build details and manufacture date:

https://bimmercat.com/bmw/EN/vin/decoder/online

Paul

[ah]

That means it's my cars birthday today.

[Brianmoooore]

There was a change in the front window lift design in early '88 on E30 saloons, but AFIK, ragtops were built with the vastly more reliable later mechanism from the start.
That said, I find it odd that you say you need window motors, since I've never known one of the later type fail, certainly not the pair on one car.
There was a dealer fitted electric window conversion for cars that left the factory with manual window winders, and the motors (and switches) for these can be troublesome, but again, all ragtops had factory electric windows.

[vonmarshall]

Put you vin here or similar place, should give you the build details and manufacture date:

https://bimmercat.com/bmw/EN/vin/decoder/online

Paul

Thanks for the help. So my car was born in June 88 and registered in August.

There was a change in the front window lift design in early '88 on E30 saloons, but AFIK, ragtops were built with the vastly more reliable later mechanism from the start.
That said, I find it odd that you say you need window motors, since I've never known one of the later type fail, certainly not the pair on one car.
There was a dealer fitted electric window conversion for cars that left the factory with manual window winders, and the motors (and switches) for these can be troublesome, but again, all ragtops had factory electric windows.

Interesting re the motor used. I know that there is a rumour that ragtops were built with more galvanizing and are theoretically less prone to rust, but never heard about different electrics. Do you know a good source for me to do more research on the ragtops?

Re 2 motors going, I am not sure. I thought it may be a case of loose wiring because the front one is temperamental rather than simply not working. My garage who are pretty good claim not. More recently I have noticed the rear is temperamental too which in my mind points to the switching or wiring rather than the motors themselves, Time for another opinion I think!

[Brianmoooore]

There is no galvanizing on ANY E30!
Ragtops were built at Regensburg and tourings at Dingolfing; both more modern factories than the saloon plant at Munich, and the improved techniques used there did result in better rust resistance.
There is almost certainly nothing wrong with your window motors, and if front and rear are both affected the first test is to see if there is any difference between operating the windows with the doors closed and ignition on, and operating them with the ignition off and a front door open.
Check this carefully and report back.

[Satan]

Quick question Brian, my convertible when you used to open the door livened up the window switches without the ignition being on so that you lower/raise the windows, a few years back I removed the alarm as it was parasitic and was a cause of the battery drain, I did carefully remove the alarm and reconnect the wires but since then the windows don't work as they did and I need the key in the ignition, what did I miss when reconnecting it up?

Also it would be nice to have the central locking back but then again it won't dead lock the car I assume.

[Brianmoooore]

Supply for the windows with the door open comes from fuse 28, so check this first.
Windows are fed from the common terminal of a blue C/O relay behind the LH side of the glove box area, operated by a brown/blue wire on the door pin switches. Supply for the relay's coil also comes from fuse 28.
An ignition switched supply from fuse 17 goes to the NC contact of the relay, which you know is OK, and fuse 28 feeds the NO relay contact.

Midwest is on dangerous ground, dissing the E30!

[vonmarshall]

There is no galvanizing on ANY E30!
Ragtops were built at Regensburg and tourings at Dingolfing; both more modern factories than the saloon plant at Munich, and the improved techniques used there did result in better rust resistance.
There is almost certainly nothing wrong with your window motors, and if front and rear are both affected the first test is to see if there is any difference between operating the windows with the doors closed and ignition on, and operating them with the ignition off and a front door open.
Check this carefully and report back.

Thanks for the info and the tip. What was it that the more modern factories dis to reduce proneness to rust do you think?

Will run a test on Friday and report back.