Has anyone got personal experience using this? I just did the front/rear chasis legs, cills, rear arches and the few box sections around the rear and I think i might have only used about 1 litre of the stuff. Anyone else experience the same?
Cavity waxing with Bilthamber Dynax S50
Moderator: martauto
This has to be a favourite amoung BMW enthusiasts given part of it's name
Has anyone got personal experience using this? I just did the front/rear chasis legs, cills, rear arches and the few box sections around the rear and I think i might have only used about 1 litre of the stuff. Anyone else experience the same?
Has anyone got personal experience using this? I just did the front/rear chasis legs, cills, rear arches and the few box sections around the rear and I think i might have only used about 1 litre of the stuff. Anyone else experience the same?
ive not used it but i want to try the bt products, but wax is wax, and 1 litre to do all that doesnt sound like enough to me, but only you will know what sort of coat you put on, good fun tho isnt it and feels beneficial
tip for doing the chassis legs and areas like that- use a garage air line with thin nozzle, to blow the wax right down/all around deep inside, and add more..
tip for doing the chassis legs and areas like that- use a garage air line with thin nozzle, to blow the wax right down/all around deep inside, and add more..
I definitetly didn't try use little, I went back and forth serveral times all around the car that was why I was wondering.
The stuff smells, I smell, my clothes smell but other than that jobs a good one! I must get out a little torch and have a look at what I can see.
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I used a schults gun with a lance on it like this one:
The stuff smells, I smell, my clothes smell but other than that jobs a good one! I must get out a little torch and have a look at what I can see.
---edit---
I used a schults gun with a lance on it like this one:
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nickso
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I used it years back on mine. Don't remember how much I used but I did everything possible and seem to remember buying a big tub of the stuff.
I also rigged up a chassis member test piece made of cardboard and checked the coverage....it was pretty good with very few missed spots.
I also rigged up a chassis member test piece made of cardboard and checked the coverage....it was pretty good with very few missed spots.
'88 e30 328i M52 track bint.
I got a 5L jerry can thinking i'd use a lot of it. I use a empty schults 1L tin and didn't fill it to the top, topped it up a little once and poured left over back into the drum.
Have you topped it up since? I still have a few more area's to do after I do some touch ups and I intend to pump the subframes and rear arms full of it to.
Have you topped it up since? I still have a few more area's to do after I do some touch ups and I intend to pump the subframes and rear arms full of it to.
did you get the stuff really hot ? and keep heating it ?
ive not used bt but waxoyl a few times, and certainly used more than 1L to do that lot, remember the wax is carried inside the liquid, which then evaporates, leaving the wax, so not really sure how much actual wax you would of put down in just 1 litre, just re do it all in a couple of days for good measure, and with the sills etc remember to unlock the drainage slits after
personly i think using a product like fertan is very beneficial before hand, then the wax over the top, as that attacks the rust- area like inside the sills and sections you cant see inside
ive not used bt but waxoyl a few times, and certainly used more than 1L to do that lot, remember the wax is carried inside the liquid, which then evaporates, leaving the wax, so not really sure how much actual wax you would of put down in just 1 litre, just re do it all in a couple of days for good measure, and with the sills etc remember to unlock the drainage slits after
personly i think using a product like fertan is very beneficial before hand, then the wax over the top, as that attacks the rust- area like inside the sills and sections you cant see inside
Yup, heated it up in a large bucket before use and made sure it was nice and liquidy. I'll prob do it at least twice more, got lots of it anyway.
Fertan is like a paint isnt it? Only thing I would think is that with all the dust in the cavities the paint will go hard on top of the dust. And to be fair it would be a bitch to get it squeaky clean. Where as with the S50 stuff I hope it will soak through the dust a bit since it never goes hard (so they say).
Either way, what ever it is you do it will be better than nothing and it will slow any rust you haven't discovered from getting worse.
Fertan is like a paint isnt it? Only thing I would think is that with all the dust in the cavities the paint will go hard on top of the dust. And to be fair it would be a bitch to get it squeaky clean. Where as with the S50 stuff I hope it will soak through the dust a bit since it never goes hard (so they say).
Either way, what ever it is you do it will be better than nothing and it will slow any rust you haven't discovered from getting worse.
all fertan is is a liquid that attacks and converts rust, if you put it on non rust/paint it just wipes off, but the best thing about it- is it lay dormant and can kick in if any rust develops, it will just soak thorugh the dust and in areas you cant see- like cills, rear arches inside boot and rear door cards, it penetrates right in to the crack a bit deeper than a wax product, leave 24 hours then wax, so essentialy you have that thin rust proof/anti rust barrier deep in the crevice, with the wax sat on top, which has its own anti rust properties, but the fertan will attack and cure any actual rust in the areas like sills that you cant see inside and run down further than a wax as its just a liquid and doesnt go hard on contact with cold metal etc, but any anti rust liquid BT probably do one, would be beneficial
also get some inside the doors then wax , so it just prevent/slow/stop any rusting of the door skin from inside to out
but like you say- its all beneficial, and a not much money and a bit of time, will do wonders for an e30 in terms of halt and prevention of rust
also get some inside the doors then wax , so it just prevent/slow/stop any rusting of the door skin from inside to out
but like you say- its all beneficial, and a not much money and a bit of time, will do wonders for an e30 in terms of halt and prevention of rust
Oh right I thought it was a paint product! It sounds quite good actually!
I was just out having a look before it got dark and remembered to stick the doors on my list (and the boot lid). I might see through 5L yet
It's a bit hard to see in the pic but there's a nice enough coat in there, although this would have been easy to reach anyway. I need to do it again and make sure I guide the lance under the bracket as it isn't really coated.
And, yes, I to love how the painter missed a spot
I was just out having a look before it got dark and remembered to stick the doors on my list (and the boot lid). I might see through 5L yet
It's a bit hard to see in the pic but there's a nice enough coat in there, although this would have been easy to reach anyway. I need to do it again and make sure I guide the lance under the bracket as it isn't really coated.
And, yes, I to love how the painter missed a spot
I've used both Waxoyl and the Bilt stuff, Waxoyl on the general underside and then the Bilt stuff in the chassis/sills and in the case of my Saab drive shaft tunnels. Used the stuff in aerosol form with the long pipe and a nail in the end so the stuff sprays sideways out from the pipe, so easy and quick, used up the can (quite a size) in next to no time.
Got good reviews so hopefully that's done and forgot about
Got good reviews so hopefully that's done and forgot about
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Gert_8
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That's clever. What stopped the nail squirting out?
PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
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spook
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Ive used it on my E24, the thinner stuff for certain parts and the thicker gear for sections etc,its epic gear.
it came with a long hose with a brass knuckle on the end with various holes in enabling it to be sprayed fookin all over the show.
it came with a long hose with a brass knuckle on the end with various holes in enabling it to be sprayed fookin all over the show.
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Gert_8
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Stockists? Project work for the spring
PONY, 2013 - "Anyway span 360 degrees hitting the kerb and giving the old man two fingers as I was spinning like Michael Schumacher would
No, you're right, the Waxoyl had the nail in the tube (have one of those hand pump thingies, bit like a plant sprayer really) because it has an outlet to flow out of the nail doesn't have to be in too hard, never came out so assuming this.
The Bilt one as said earlier by spook (which reminded me of this) had the brass or similar nozzle which does the same thing, seems to be included with every purchase of these cans....
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50
Bought from them direct, plus the DEOX-C 3-4 times now, catch it right and they can turn up the next day, 2 days at the most and no more expensive than from Fleabay, plus can use PayPal which is a real boon for me (like to keep tabs where my card details end up, the less places the less chance of being done over.......
The Bilt one as said earlier by spook (which reminded me of this) had the brass or similar nozzle which does the same thing, seems to be included with every purchase of these cans....
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50
Bought from them direct, plus the DEOX-C 3-4 times now, catch it right and they can turn up the next day, 2 days at the most and no more expensive than from Fleabay, plus can use PayPal which is a real boon for me (like to keep tabs where my card details end up, the less places the less chance of being done over.......
As an extra one of those cans was enough for me to do all 4 inner wheel arches, inside of the entire sills, inside the front chassis members, drive shaft tunnels, corners of the inner wheel arches and each end of the wheel arches where the bodykit meets the arches (this is a Saab 900 turbo so similar in size) The reasoning behind this is that in the blurb it's not recommended where it can be subjected to UV light so that's where the Waxoyl comes in.