BILT HAMBER VS FERTAN...

[Jos]

hahaha I suppose it would be perfect.
And actually I do have one but it's fooked and is destined to become a mooring stone!!

[Brianmoooore]

If you want things like calipers back to bare bright metal, just get yourself a little washing soda and set up an electrolysis tank.

Bilt Hamber actually mention that this process together with their product works well and fast.

Electrolysis removes every trace of rust if you leave the tank powered up for long enough, so I don't see what's left for Bilt Hamber to do.
I have an old domestic bath in the corner of the workshop, and a few 25 litre plastic containers full of soda solution, so I can derust complete subframes, wings, etc. Items that are too big to completely submerge can be done bits at a time.

[Gavla]

I have an old domestic bath in the corner of the workshop, and a few 25 litre plastic containers full of soda solution, so I can derust complete subframes, wings, etc.

Wish I had that kind of space Brian, I use a mop bucket in my spare toilet and that is even a tight squeeze. So for me time and space are important factors.

[bab-91]

Just bought some bilt hamber gel for the floor pans.

Now to acquire the himen of a virgin (no small quest in Antrim) , a golden fleece and a hard working greek for a ritual sacrifice to fix my rear arches.

[polsta]

If fertan "converts" rust to something else (lets be honest, it can not convert oxidised metal back to metal) doesn't that mean that under the converted layer you still have rust? How do you know how deep fertan has converted oxidation to what ever it converts?

I used a similar product I found on a shelf in a mate's dads garage - about 20 years old but still fine. He'd bought it to paint metal bins with and said it was excellent.

You basically clean off any loose rust with a wire brush and paint the rust-convertor on. It's oily in consistency in the can and amber brown in colour then as it takes to the metal it turns black, especially where there's rust. It dries to leave a thick layer of 'primer' on the metal that you can paint over and seems to penetrate and convert all the loose rust into a hard black material. It sands down to a good finish if you need it to as well. It would be good for something like subframes, where you want to strip them off and lay down a hard barrier to rust coming back, but for most things I'd probably rather just get them down to clean metal and paint up from there..

Although you could sand it, it's best to just paint over fertan as it lays dormant and will kick back in to action years later, it's not for real thick rusty rust ideally you'd need that blasted/stripped, it's just a handy thing to have to use for the cavities and little bits of surface rust

What it's also handy for , things like suspension arms and the backing plate things behind the wheels, they are always crusty, unless you remove all the wheels and hubs - you can fertan them then hammerite them still in place , and add a few more years onto them