Rust prevention tips please!

[325isporttech1]

hi all, after trying to sell the tech1 with no luck im now keeping it. I need to do a few light corrosion repairs ie bits on the arches and a couple of other little bits. What is the best way to repair the arches without cutting them out and replacing with new ones? they have corroded under were the side skirt meets the rear arch and thats it only looks like surface rust. I have just removed the carpet to have a look under it and it is solid i will post pics its like new and i want to keep it this way, any tips for rust prevention for the common areas so it stays free of rust?

[e301988325i]

I've no experience but if it works it's tempting.

http://www.rustguardian.co.uk/index.html

edit- I've emailed them for a price

[DHFiS]

Kurust, Hammerite and Waxoyl

[e30bmlover]

rust prevention??? buy an i.s.... they were galvanised dont you know???

[oakey]

I know it looks like surface rust but it really isn't. At least not the area where the bumpstrip meets the arch. The ONLY way to repair is to let in new metal I'm afraid.
Best way to prevent rust is to remove the kit every 6months and give it all a good clean imo and don't drive it in bad weather.

[oly]

www.bilthamber.com

not used the stuff, got recommended the site from guys at work.

[325isporttech1]

rust prevention??? buy an i.s.... they were galvanised dont you know???

lol are they realy galvanised of is that taking the piss out of the i.s i wouldnt have one if it was made of gold

[e30bmlover]

rust prevention??? buy an i.s.... they were galvanised dont you know???

lol are they realy galvanised of is that taking the pee pee out of the i.s i wouldnt have one if it was made of gold

[e301988325i]

I've no experience but if it works it's tempting.

http://www.rustguardian.co.uk/index.html

edit- I've emailed them for a price

I've received a reply, the cost is £159.99 inc VAT and postage. I've e-mailed back for more info and the possibilty of a group buy discount.

[7string]

i have a bit of that at one side under the skirt on the m3 but when i got it , two and a half years ago, i wire brushed it well, ku-rusted it and sprayed it with a good coating of waxoyl, the black stuff - this summer i pulled thye skirt off again and its still as it was then. the car gets used a lot, rain or shine.

[DHFiS]

I've no experience but if it works it's tempting.

http://www.rustguardian.co.uk/index.html

edit- I've emailed them for a price

I've received a reply, the cost is £159.99 inc VAT and postage. I've e-mailed back for more info and the possibilty of a group buy discount.

I just dont see how this works.

Their explanation is "The rusting process takes these free electrons provided by the CAT System instead of removing electrons from the metal, leaving the metal unchanged."

But the process of rusting liberates electrons as iron bonds with oxygen anyway. Any chemists on the Zone?

[e301988325i]

I guess they're not too inclined to give the full details away. I agree it would be interesting to find out though, if it's BS then it's alot of money wasted. It must use a current somehow to stop/slow/prevent the reaction. Claims of a 4 fold increase in metal life does sound too good to be true, but if it works then it's a good value investment. . .

[hennabm]

I can smell .

With a body return on the earth as most vehicles have then aren't already some electrons flowing through the body (if you believe the theory on the website). Therefore vehicles shouldn't be rusting now.

I have seen similar where they use sacrificial diodes to attract rust (as used on ship hulls). The flaw there with that is most cars do not sit in salt water (which acts as the electrolyte).

Spend the money on a good grinder, a face mask and some filler. You'll do better at rust proofing than the stuff on the website.

There is a saying - if it sounds too good to be true - that's because it is.

[325isporttech1]

I've no experience but if it works it's tempting.

http://www.rustguardian.co.uk/index.html

edit- I've emailed them for a price

I've received a reply, the cost is £159.99 inc VAT and postage. I've e-mailed back for more info and the possibilty of a group buy discount.

That isnt bad atall if it does what it says, i expected it to be over £500. I dont see why it wouldnt work its a simple idea that should

[325isporttech1]

i have a bit of that at one side under the skirt on the m3 but when i got it , two and a half years ago, i wire brushed it well, ku-rusted it and sprayed it with a good coating of waxoyl, the black stuff - this summer i pulled thye skirt off again and its still as it was then. the car gets used a lot, rain or shine.

I will give that a go first so i dont throw money down the drain as mine is also a daily driver

[e301988325i]

My best mate's fiancee has a chemistry degree, I'll ring her and see if she can tell me more. . . A colleague at work removed something similar from a Y reg VW scirrocco which was mint, that can't be a coincidence as they rot like nothing else. I'll do some more research.

[325isporttech1]

It will certainly be popular if it is true, the science of it makes sence but it could just be another internet con. I know first hand about rot on scirocco's my dad loves them

[oakey]

But what about if your car already has rust will it stop that getting worse??
The best proof that it works, I suppose, would be to find out whether the navy and other organisations DO actually use this technology.

[hennabm]

Most paint is electrostatically applied so if you connect up the thing the wrong way round, will all the paint fall off

Aslo the body is already the earth retun for your battery to make the circuit, so your metal already has electrons flowing through it, free or not.

A fool and his money are easily parted

Don't forget those tablets in a string you could put in your fuel tank and this was used by the RAF in Russia in WW2. Another scam.
And the similar device to that being discussed here. It had a connector to the body from the battery and a piece of lead that you bolted to the chassis to act as the sacrificial diode and that was supposed to stop corrosion. yeah right

Oh and having read some of the so called testimonials - most are from Australia - they don't tend to have the same corrsion problems as Europe.

[e301988325i]

A fool and his money are easily parted

My biggset problems are roof, sunroof panel, inside front of rear arch nearside, battery tray(rear mounted), under the rear of rear opening windows (2 dr) and around the rear lights.
If this device works and 'timewarps my car' it will put off, what will an expensive ammount of work in many different areas. Rather more than the cars worth in fact. That's my logic and hence my interest.

But what about if your car already has rust will it stop that getting worse??
The best proof that it works, I suppose, would be to find out whether the navy and other organisations DO actually use this technology.

Here's the correspondonce I've had from them, the questions I've asked should be fairly obvious given the answers. . .

Hi Alex,

a few answers for you-

1) Of course there would be a discount on multiple orders for the CAT or any other products which are on my web site ruststopshop.com. I am not a believer in using single product technology to solve the rust problem, if you you supplementary products such as Corrosion Block you will achieve almost 100% protection. I will look at various options - bulk discounts or voucher codes which will qualify for discount.

2) The current taken by the Cat unit is 175 milliamps. The Cat turns off at 12.2volts and will normally run for between 4 and 7 days dependant upon battery state and other fixed loads. A trickle charger will give more than enough power for the Cat, a better option is a conditioning charger which cycles the battery keeping it in a better state.

3) The Cat unit can be placed almost any where in the vehicle as long as power can be provided. The most common location for a saloon car is under the bonnet. There is rarely a problem in siting the unit.

4) It is very difficult to measure the charge of the electron film with a conventional meter. From personal experience on my motorhome the doors and bonnet do receive protection from the Cat. Test sections placed at these locations would demonstrate that protection is being provided.

5) The fact that your vehicle is run on LPG poses no problem to the use of the CAT. All areas of the car that have an earth continuam will be protected by the Cat unit, so if you ensure that your tanks are earthed, by attaching some form of earthing strap if necessary, protection will be achieved.

6) It is not difficult for most individuals with reasonable hearing to confirm that the Cat is functioning. It emits a low pulse sound which is not intrusive but is obvious. The other checks that you can do if you have a ammeter is to check that the Cat unit is drawing the a current within the prescribed range ( 100 -200 milliamps). This does depend on the state of the battery and the operating voltage.

7) The Cat unit has a beneficial effect on existing rust. It slows the progress and stabilises the situation. If left untreated the rust will change in colour and darken. I have left several areas in this state on my motorhome. I will attach photos taken today. Any queries contact me again. Remember products used together are more effective.

look forward to hearing from you

kind regards

dennis

[hennabm]

All the places you mention are the favourite spots on an E30 + some you haven't mentioned.

Once rust is there it is just a question of time before it crumbles away. In my 30+ years in the trade the best inhibitor is oil. I have had a few rusty cars in my time and spraying the affected areas with oil on a regular basis keeps them for longer than any aussie con will.
Engine oil or gear oil and parrafin mix and sprayed on. Hence the reason that waxoyl works. It has an oily content and therefore slows the rate of decomposition.

A few cans of oil will certainly be cheaper than paying for a con and the money saved can go to rectifying it properly in time.

You can only get rid of rust one way - chop it out. There is NO other way.

But if you are determined to buy one - I'm sure the fella will glady take your money

[e301988325i]

Once rust is there it is just a question of time before it crumbles away. In my 30+ years in the trade the best inhibitor is oil. I have had a few rusty cars in my time and spraying the affected areas with oil on a regular basis keeps them for longer than any aussie con will.
Engine oil or gear oil and parrafin mix and sprayed on. Hence the reason that waxoyl works. It has an oily content and therefore slows the rate of decomposition.

A few cans of oil will certainly be cheaper than paying for a con and the money saved can go to rectifying it properly in time.

You can only get rid of rust one way - chop it out. There is NO other way.

But if you are determined to buy one - I'm sure the fella will glady take your money

You're right in every respect, I don't disagree and I'm not arguing.

However, it's not rocket science to understand that my car is a financial write-off on body work, even though mine is a 'tidy' E30 and is very presentable. However rust IS starting in some places.

My car is garaged and used in-freqeuntly and for me this device MIGHT, hasten the arrival of the point where the body gets to the scrap/restore stage by a couple of years.

It's not really practicle to oil the outside of my car up though is it?? Perhaps some vaseline/grease covering hidden areas might be worthwhile though. . .

[hennabm]

""It's not really practicle to oil the outside of my car up though is it?? Perhaps some vaseline/grease covering hidden areas might be worthwhile though. . . "

That's what I would do until I could afford to do it properly or the car died for other reasons.