E30 Zone

I really appreciate the help and advice guys, I'll let you guys know on further work done with the car to fix the problem and maybe even more (still haven't forgotten about the pictures that were asked for).

Ok i found what it's for (Pin 45): Coolant temperature input. Now is that the blue or the orange/brown plug? Cause right now my thermostat housing has only the blue one connected (the small harness that went with the fuel rail with the blue and orange plug and the other main plug were faulty, the bl...

I'm sorry but i don't know what I'm suppose to be looking for at this point. I can't find in a diagram what pin 45 does. Why should i be checking that? Sorry if i sound like I'm questioning anybody's knowledge i just wanna know why I'm doing what I'm doing since this goes beyond my knowledge.

"It's fine trying to learn about how engines work, but best saved for one that's working properly in the first place, and seeing the effect of things on that, one at a time, and carefully resetting to normal every time. Even if the plugs are new, they'll still give valuable data, even if the engine ...

You think the not wanting to start after on engine warmed up (happens sporadically since it's been able to start a few times) has to do with the whole ICV problem?

What do you mean by the relevant driver in the ECU?

Whenever i connect the ICV plug back to the ICV the car's revs don't go past 2k rpm. It just keeps bouncing there like i were going on and off the throttle. When i take the plug off the car revs freely.

Hey I'm just trying all the alternatives i can find to learn how my car reacts and to fix it. Checked the 6 pin plug, thing looks brand new. Spark plugs are brand new. Gonna reiterate just if i hadn't said this before so maybe it helps more with the diagnosis. Main problem: engine running rich at an...

Yep, car was actually starting up pretty normally without much difficulty at first but then i started tinker around with the flowmeter air entry/idle bolt, throttle adjustment bolt and i made things worse because the idle rougher now and it refused to start the last attempts i tried to start it.

I Apologize, it's an 2.5L M20 engine from a 1990 325i.

The car has recently gotten a new and rebuilt cylinder head, after trying to start it for the first time it turned on with a really lumpy idle, barely stays on without having to accelerate it. Sometimes it just doesn't wanna start at all. But the biggest concern for me is that it doesn't want to acc...

I have found the problem, and this time it's final: the fuel pump wiring was loose. Didn't even cost me a cent to fix it. Thank you guys for the help either way you have been of great support. I owe you guys a proper introduction and more pictures of the car (and a lot more considering how much i ne...

So the car turned on with the old DME Relay, so i really don't know what was causing my troubles.

"Bridge the DME relay by connecting pin 30 to both pins 87. This is to see if power to both the ECU and the Fuel Pump relay has been lost. If the car starts once bridged, it confirms battery power is getting to Pin 30, and that both 87 circuits are working (power to ECU and Fuel pump relay). It does...

Great news, the car started, turns out it was the DME relay. I connected the 30 and the 87s and went WOT and it started cranking faster until it catched up. I kept my foot on the gas kust in cased the engine died and eventually i lifted and it stayed on. Do i have to use am OEM relay? Do they sell t...

I don't wanna celebrate yet but i just wanna thank you guys for all the help I'm getting, really wouldn't have known my way thorugh this if it wasn't for you guys.

Okay so i justed cranked while i had the dme plug wired and i still had no wet spark plugs. I did notice that it started cranked faster (kind of like it did normally did) since it had been cranked so many times it started to slow crank (not the battery, it's fuy charged and i just put it in).

I did the DME Relay test with the wire and i heard a buzzing sound as it had been activated. I proceeded to crank the engine but it didn't start. Now I'm going to check the C191, so the water gets clogged up inside the boot itself? Update: Ok so i disconnected the C191 plug and the plug looks pretty...

Replaced the fuel pump since i could replace it for free, nothing changed. I changed the fuel filter cause i disconnected the line and the fuel coming after the filter was brown so thought that might have clogged up the system, but that didn't change anything either. Also i took off the spark plug a...

Can a bad flowmeter make the engine die while running? How do i know if i have air coming into the engine since i already have fuel and spark? Can the bad flowmeter prevent the engine from starting? What else is related to the air entering the engine that could possibly affect it?

Did the fuel test, the pump was heard and i disconnected the hose from the fuel rail and i got good flow of fuel. It still doesn't start.

Hello there, name's Michael and i own a 1990 325i. I've had this car for 3 years but it's been running for 3 months now, i needed something to move around with so it was the perfect excuse to get it running. Now it's just a matter of finding all of those surprises it's been hiding for 3 years (and m...

Hey guys, I'm new to the E30 zone. I would've liked my first post to be an "about me" kind of thing but i guess that'll have to be the second one, as i need some help right now. I have a 1990 325i, it cranks but won't start. I was on my way home when the car started sputtering during running. I revv...

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Re: Crank but won't start

Re: Crank but won't start

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Re: Crank but won't start

Silver 325i Owner

Crank but won't start