E30 Zone

Not really, but when I ditched the subframe poly bushes and went back to genuine BMW rubber my problems went away.

Is the squeeling the alternator?

I have a theory that what is actually happening is the DME is running the ISCV in LOS. Therefore with a default duty cycle which is just good enough to idle when cold but there is not enough air so car will sound rough and smell rich. Once warm it might be open a little too much so it will then idle...

http://www.opel-scanner.com/files/DME_1.1_1.3.pdf

It's a long read but gives you a good understanding of exactly what the DME is trying to do and how it is trying to achieve it.

Also check tps is working otherwise dme won't know you want to idle

Check your DME relay I have heard this can cause some crazy faults under high electrical loads

If the rpm is 3000 and you close the throttle then the injectors are closed until the cps sees 1100 ish rpm, dme is already holding the icv in a nominal position and just turns the injectors back on then controls the icv to attain 750ish rpm. Motronic 1.3 has no manual adjustment of any kind. Thrott...

Motronic 1.3 and 1.0 are nothing like sorry

One other possible is that your tps is only giving you the idle map to play with

Cleaning the head might be the cause check the c191 connector under the inlet manifold and I know it sounds silly but is your afm connected. With out the AFM the car doesn't know you want to do and can't increase the rpm until after the fact when it sees it in the CPS reading therefore the fuel map ...

Carsoft 6.5 which will do motronic 1.3, just a cheap ebay thing running on an old laptop with a serial port. I have also used carsoft on e36's and e34's running m50's and m52's handy bit of kit for those cars as it can give you live data but for the e30 I use an old skool sun diagnostics oscilloscop...

I had the same problem on my 325i replaced everything and I mean everything could not solve the problem. After 6 years of living with it I finally fixed the problem by resetting the adaptation values using carsoft. Now everyone will tell that you simply disconnect the battery for a while and that'll...

Hows it going? What you up top these days? I'm impressed to see you still have the e30.

Speak to you soon, Ryan.

One place water can get in is via the blanking section for the air con pipes by the battery tray. Water should not be able to get to the battery tray but if the wings have been removed and not sealed back on the car water will find its way onto the battery tray and cause problems.

I have had alot of interest in the car. I think the best thing to do is put it up for sale in the for sale section with pictures of the whole car and list everything it will come with as it's not fair to people who want to buy it not knowing everything and seeing everything first. I will try and do ...

I did say it's driveable and I've got a spare head light or 3. I'm getting an e46 320d sport 4dr for the family car but the e30 just seems to want to either take my time or take my money.

I know but I'm in work at the moment

It has 9 months MOT and has 5 months tax The best way to do this car would be a reshell I have the new scuttle with chassis number stamped so you could even keep the identity as a sport if you replaced that part on the donor car. What should I ask for if sold as is with all parts? £1k?? On the insur...

I need to change the car anyway because of my baby. To fix the crash damage would be about £500 max but to do scuttle rear arches and make the whole car to mint would be 2k at a pro body shop. I could break the car but I haven't got the time and it still drives fine so anybody that took it could dri...

I have a 325i sport 1990 sterling silver 87k, obc, a/c fitted but not wired into fuse box, good interior, rear blind not fitted but all parts there and illuminated gear knob. I have damaged the bonnet, n/s wing, head light (have spare), front valance and scratched the bumper smashed grill. The car n...

I was just amazed at the subframes front and rear

I think people will like this:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4515333&page=1

Check the top mount and collar nut for the damper insert.

You have an air lock

mrpig wrote:oh thats ok then thought it was summit serious

Glad my new suspention is turning up tomorrow then

That won't fix your bent strut issue as new dampers on the front are just inserts.

Mine just passed with 6000k hids and led side lights which I think are even more blue

I consider it an easy job, but it all depends how easily the ball joints come apart. I have done lots e30, e36 and e46 so I probably under estimate the job slightly. Having said that I don't have a ramp and it takes me about 30mins per side.

£28 new from BMW

I would replace both front control arms with Lemforder parts from GSF or ECP and buy the e30 m3 control arm bushes from BMW in total should cost about £100.

You will need a ball joint splitter big lump hammer and a hack saw.

It's an m20 if you can't find a leak I will be amazed. 3 most common are sump gasket, cam cover and cam oil seal front. Not forgetting oil return pipe under inlet manifold, dip stick seal, head gasket and pressure relief valve.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cfc100-1-tonne-folding-workshop-crane/path/workshop-cranes-engine-stands http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cll500-load-leveller/path/workshop-cranes-engine-stands 1 ton and a load leveller, do not under estimate the use of a load leve...

Bally wrote:don't laugh i have a 325 auto j reg with cat do the 6 branch have a hole or the the lambda or is the sensor fitted after the inlet

Hope to god the sensor is fitted after inlet

Should be on a the down pipes in the cross over by choice.

Take the arm off and see if the spindle is moving.

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