E30 Zone

Want to show you final engine mount design, combination of hard rubber and steel.. Can't wait to put it to test

dot wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 11, 2018 12:40 pm
Is there a right and a wrong way to fit a con rod?

There is no way you can fit it wrong way.. keep aye on guide for bearing on rod and cap..

I run in the another problem.. :\ Last weekend I put the head on block and torque down bolts, in next order: 1. Clean the threads on block, WD40 and air. Test fit all bolts by hand. 2. Bought new head bolts (torx head) 3. New head gasket. 4. Torque down in stages, cross pattern order. - 30 Nm - 90° ...

Zone looks great!!

well done

Last weekend was the last event for this year..

I drive my daily for fun and to test new 4.25 diff for car that is in build process..

here is the video https://youtu.be/C8QC485ko9c

verde wrote:If you are concerned about the subframe and arms etc then get the garagistic reinforcement plates.

Subframe will be reinforced either way

I forgot to mention..

Thanks for the info

Solid mounting the engine and box is an idea depending what your looking for and what you will tolerate. I have solid mounted the 328 in my e36 drift car and I enjoy the responsiveness and the lack of movement during transition however there is no denying that I have potentially risked my subframe ...

I have m20 engine sitting in garage, for a while, also fresh rebuild.. My plan is to turn oil pump by electric drill until i see oil in head.. I did read somewhere that is good idea to add 2l of oil from oil filter side and while doing that turn oil pump counterclockwise by hand...and then use drill...

As I promised..

This is the design that i will be working on, black is A80 rubber, top and bottom will be machined from solid piece of steel..
If you have some suggestions, feel free to write it, before machining starts

https://imgur.com/a/lRvtwjc

I use silicone milk :) It makes dash slippery so the dust wont stay on it, no unnatural shine :D OK, I'll ask - WTF is that? Paul :-) stuck it in google & all it brings back is about breastfeeding 8O :eek: xaxaxaxaxa omg xD things get weird when you use google xD but do not worry no need to "milk y...

I use silicone milk

It makes dash slippery so the dust wont stay on it, no unnatural shine

Maybe you could solid-mount the engine/box, but bear in mind you would probably end up frequently breaking propshaft/driveshaft joints, since the rubber mountings help reduce the torque stress on these parts when setting off, or changing gear, seeing as the engine/box has a bit of 'give' and twisti...

Speedtouch wrote:I suspect you'd end up with alot of NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) despite the 6-pot being a well-balanced engine...

Yes for sure, but then again the car is for track use only, no road and traffic whatsoever..

I have another question who requires experience :) Did someone have use a solid engine and transmission mounts, like aluminium one.. Never use solid one before but I think it will gain some precise shift, due to no engine movement, which is very helpful for this kind of car use. But in the other han...

Hmm nice to know

I have one complete heater unit, so we will see what is going on.

I use http://autodjelovi.me/wp-content/upload ... mmerce.jpg

change every 2-3 years, no problems so far..

Superpro is the way to go for everyday drive..

Cloggy Saint wrote:Unfortunately there isn't really anything that will breathe any extra life into a b20.

Unfortunately, this is true.

Thanks :) Out of curiosity, is there a force which should turn only bottom end, when is everything is assembled right. This one turn easily by 20nm, it will go lower but my torque wrench to not go below 20nm. Now I wait for head to come and start final assembly of the engine.. :) oh I almost forgot,...

Thanks, I come to same conclusion... :) Will leave it for now stock :) Yesterday I assembled the bottom end. For assembly oil I used 10w40 which may be a bit thin for first assembly, but that is what I had at the moment. So the head is not ready to go on the top, so the bottom end will be sitting fo...

after quick test of sensor, i realise that some kind of transistor must be used to monitor sensor, but will look more in to it..

hmm, now that I think about it, maybe I can install new wires to old sensor and insert a bulb on dashboard somewhere, separate from the rest of the stock harness.. do you know what voltage is sent to sensor? 5V?

hello,

Did you test it, to make sure that fpr is defective? m20b25 use 3.0 FPR.

Yesterday I was playing with engine bay loom, adapting c191 connector from some kind of swapped homemade connector (really bad one).. Other then that it;s a stock 1.3 motronic loom. Now I need to sort thinks with oil level sensor, I did read on e30wiki that old sender can be used with some loom chan...

Indeed, it should run OK with the standard chip, however, if you later require a Mild/Wild EPROM upgrade chip, I can supply either for the M20B20. :wink: Thanks for help, of course that you will be the first one to call when time for chip comes :) Now I just want to assemble engine and make it run ...

Once again i am stunned by your knowledge.. Thank you very much

Soon the assembly of bottom end will start..

I have another one for you :) The engine that I want to transform from l jet to motronic is m20b20 from 1985. The pistons on this engine have profile that goes deeper in the head and I assume that is why the compression ratio is 9.8:1 against 8.8:1 on later m20b20 engine with almost flat piston top....

Brianmoooore wrote:Use a screwdriver or punch + hammer on the lip of the cap, taking care not to damage the block. Cap will 'roll' out.

Thanks for helping

Ok, and for installing a new one I assume something flat and hammer to push it in?

Need to replace one of coolant caps on block. How to remove old one? I was thinking drilling the cap and then somehow wiggle it out with screwdriver..?

So, just to be on safe side, bolts market red on picture are tighten to 10 Nm?

https://imgur.com/ABDFgCh

Brianmoooore wrote:It's possible to change the change the valve stem seals without removing the head, using coiled up string or compressed air to keep the valves in place.

Did not know that is possible.. Seems like a painful job. Can you walk me try procedure, in help of better understanding how it works?

Just a little update, yesterday I took a compression meter from a friend and it turns out that the first one that I use was broken and showing false reading.. :x Dry, fully warmed up with second gauge 1= 12.5 bar 2= 12.5 bar 3= 12.6 bar 4= 12.6 bar 5= 12.5 bar 6= 12.6 bar So, all along I base my con...

have you thought about m20 b25 conversion ? Yes I did, but for now it;s has to be m20b20 because car must be registered and legal, and I already have lot of parts for m20b20. basically what is missing from rebuild and conversion to motronic 1.3 is AFM, new crankshaft bearings, and gaskets.. so for ...

blimmer86 wrote:http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... e_Settings

that was my first stop

but I did not found info there or I misunderstand it, i guess that's it but I am not sure? this "to engine bolts" confusing me..

Oil Pump Cover Plate to Engine Bolts (M20 & M40 Engines) (M6 Bolts) - 10Nm

Hello to all :) I decided to do some work on my non daily, 1985 e30 m20b20, and get the car ready for next slalom season. Idea is to convert l jet to motronic 1.3 and thanks to e30 wiki I collected the parts necessary for the job. :) Also since the head is sent to shop for rebuild, I was thinking th...

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