E30 Zone

Following the troubleshoot flow chart takes me to the DME relay, so I'll try that and go from there.

flybynite wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 19, 2023 5:18 pm

Carmo13 wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 19, 2023 5:14 pm
Any ideas guys?
Have you been through the Zone flow chart?
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... oubleshoot

Thanks for that, gives me a little more to go at

Hi Guys, I've been investigating this problem for a bit, but I'm starting to run out of ideas. This is what has been tested so far, No spark before or after the distributor 12V to coil confirmed with ignition on and whilst cranking Coil tested - Primary resistance 0.6 Ohms, secondary resistance 6000...

Brutus really went out of his way to help me with a replacement electric window motor. I originally thought i had an OEM system on my car so he found a working one in his collection and sent me photos as well. I then discovered that my motor wasn't the same and i actually had an aftermarket kit on m...

It would be pretty pricey i reckon, but high temp ceramic power coating would do a good job

I would be going back and checking part numbers, the fitting etc of the clutch.

How and when did the problem start?

Have you opened up the old pump yet?
I am thinking that if there is visible damage then maybe you have "swarf" in your rack?
I dont know if there is a filter of any sort in the PAS system?

I would have thought that this is as much to do with your brake "feel" than anything else. I would practice learning where the lock up point is and holding the pedal just above rather than just slamming them on. Also waiting until the car is loaded on the front end before applying the full braking f...

A failing ignition coil usually only starts to play up when hot.
May be worth testing this.

Check this company out if you get a chance.

https://www.colourlock.com/

Yeah, BMW will do one for you and you dont need to give them your other key as they use their original data for the car if i remember correctly.
I think you need to take your V5 and some I.D when you order. Its worth giving your local dealer a call though just to be sure.

When you say the car doesn't have an airbox, is it definitely only the airbox missing or is it the air flow metre (AFM) as well?
If the car is trying to run without its AFM then you will have all sorts of trouble.

I wonder if the coolant pipe is ballooning when hot due to breaking down structurally with time?
This happened to one of my hoses recently.

I tried fully synthetic in my 135,000 mile 325i and i found it burnt off much quicker than semi.
This might just be a sign of a worn engine my end, or maybe fully is a lower viscosity. Has anybody else had found this?

I take it that you have checked your plugs and they are black and sooty?

Knowledgeable people on here say its one of the best things you can do to help tune up a tired engine.
Have a look in the Traders section on here and look for Injectortune. He is a trusted Trader, but can be a little difficult to get hold of some times by the looks of it.

The "stud" will turn as it is the shaft of the shock absorber. There is usually an allen key socket in the end of the shaft to enable you to stop it spinning whilst tightening the top nut. Worn track rod ends will give the symptoms you are describing. Jack a corner of the car of the ground and try t...

Have your injectors been refurbished?
Going by peoples reviews, this usually improves their idle.
Apart from that, poor idles are usually air leak related.

No this is incorrect. If there is an air leak in the intake system, it will almost certainly be after the air flow meter (AFM), therefore the ecu will not know that there is extra air entering the system and the engine will run lean.

I'm 95% sure that my subframe doesn't have the hole (87 325i). It certainly wasn't obvious when i fitted my new exhaust. I remember getting bored looking for the hole so just fitted it without the middle bracket, even though i had gone to the trouble of buying the bits i needed for it. The oem exhau...

The perfect thing for unlocking the door from the outside is plastic parcel strapping. Form a loop in the strapping (and a strategically placed bend), gently prise the door open just enough to allow the strapping through the door seal, get the loop over the door knob, tighten it and pull upwards. Iv...

If your bumper is already scraping, adding a lip to that will reduce ground clearance even more and probably just get ripped off. The best thing to do would be to admit to yourself that you have lowered your car too much and raise it. Failing that the best thing would probably be a custom metal skid...

I have loosened locking wheel nuts using an old socket which is slightly undersized compared to the outer diameter of the wheel nut.
I just get a big hammer and give it a good few hits to get the socket over the wheel nut.
Its a bit brutal but it has worked in the past.

Sorry, just another thought. When i got my gaskets, all of the waste foam from the stamping process was still attached to the gaskets, and i had to carefully pick out all of the waste foam from the bolt holes etc... Maybe if you have missed a bit it might be preventing the gasket from sitting proper...

If the bulb covers on the inside of the boot clip in how they should then surely the light clusters aren't too far from where they should be.

Are you sure that the lights were flush from the factory? I know what you mean as i noticed the same thing when i replaced my gaskets. However at the time it was more important to me that they provided a water proof seal rather than the lights being perfectly flush with the bodywork. Maybe with time...

They are pre-facelift lights which seems funny to me as i thought pre-facelift cars finished in 87?
It makes sense that the new gaskets are thicker as they havent been compressed for nearly 30 years.

Just had a thought. It might be worth taking the collar off the shock and seeing if you can get it to thread fully in on its own. It might be that the shock is very slightly slanted within the strut causing the collar to cross-thread. If this is the case it may be worth lifting the shock slightly fr...

There are only really 3 possibilities. There is damage to a thread somewhere, the collar / nut is cross-threaded or the pitch of the thread on the collar is incorrect. The only thing you can do is carefully check all threads for damage and buy a metric thread gauge and check the pitch of the thread ...

When I tried fully synthetic in my 325i, I found the engine used quite a lot of oil and I had to keep topping it up, so I ended up going back to semi. My engine has done 140,000 for reference. This may be bad advice but personally I wouldn't stress too much about mixing the oils. Semi is a mix betwe...

Have you read the wiki page about it?
Is there something you're particularly not confident about?

Just to make you aware that the m20b25 (325i) engine is known for reading low on the temperature gauge.
A quarter line reading is nothing to worry about.
Take a look at the second to last paragraph of the following link.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Cooling

If you dont want to damage the collar with a pair of stilsons, the correct tool is called a hook spanner / C spanner.
I wouldnt worry too much about the torque, when i did mine i just tightened them with a hook spanner by hand and have never had any issues.

When my clutch slave cylinder failed, it failed without warning. Yours could be on the way out. The "dry" feeling that your are experiencing could just be the fact that the clutch is only partly disengaging causing a slight "crunching" of the gears. I dont know if there is anyway of telling the diff...

Search found 201 matches

Re: 87 325i - No spark, injectors not firing

Re: 87 325i - No spark, injectors not firing

87 325i - No spark, injectors not firing

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Re: Rear light seal/gasket problem :(

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