E30 Zone

It does look very nice, except that it's an auto..

I'm still looking for a decent one. A nice 518i would do me perfectly, there's not many about though

Ok, I'll watch out for the sunroof!
It may have to be the 518, the E30 isn't really driveable at the moment

I'm not too worried about it being fast, it'll be more of a family car. But I'll still take a 525 if I can find one !

Looks like it's definately going to be the E34 then! Just got to find a good one now, seen a couple of 518's on Autotrader, would rather have a 525 but there don't seem to be many about..

The time has come to retire my E30 and get something a bit bigger and more practical :( I'm going to want a touring, but I'm unsure whether to go for a late (1996) E34, or an E39. I've a max budget of £2k, but the less I have to spend the better really. I've seen a few E34's that look quite good, an...

Right, just tried that. Get consistent 12v on all 6 connectors. Also tried a loop of extra wiring between 2 and 6, but this made absolutely no difference.

Thaks willnz, I'll give that a try in the morning. I've had a look under the rocker cover and all looks fine in there. Injectors have all been changed for another set I had.

My 325 has developed (rather suddenly) a fairly constant misfire on one cylinder (no 2). I've changed the sparkplug, HT leads, injectors and blue temp sensor, none of which has made any difference. The end of the plug is coming out black, but doesn't appear to be oily. I can swap it with another plu...

Got most of it from the local GSF shop, but had to ring BMW dealer for the tensioner spring and rod. They got them next day for me.

Spring and pin ordered. They said they couldn't get it before 5th Jan, until I suggested getting from another dealer, then they could get it for tomorrow!
Hopefully they will get it, I need the car to take my lad out for his Birthday on Tues...

You are correct, this is my first cambelt change so previous experience is zero.
So there is no rule of thumb that would allow me to tension by hand? Obviously I don't want to get this wrong, but I do need the car back ASAP..
I will go with whatever you recommend Brian!

I've now got everything off, and discovered that the cause of my occasional squealing was probably the fact that the cambelt has very little tension on it, quite possibly due to there not actually being any tensioner spring present! Can I tension up my new belt by hand or do I actually need a spring...

Thanks Brian.
I've done the 4 rocker box ones a while ago, I'll get the other 2 in the morning and have a go at changing them if I can. Would be nice to get it completely sealed up, but I don't think that's going to happen!

I'm definitely going to need new coolant, mine is rather murky looking. Got to do a radiator change at the same time anyway. Distributor cap/rotor will be well inspected, but unless it is really bad will have to wait due to shortage of funds! Are there any seals that can be done at the same time? I ...

I'm probably going to be attempting to change my cambelt tomorrow. I've got a water pump and gasket, cambelt, aand tensioner.
Is there anything else I could/should be changing at the same time?

I certainly have. I'll try that if I need to.
Thanks Brian.

The HIDs are 35w, which is fairly standard.

Is there another relay I can temporarily swap with K4 until I can get a replacement (if the problem reoccurs)?

I fitted a set of HIDs at the weekend, drove to work and back Monday with no problem - dark on way home. Got home this evening, switched lights and engine off, but the headlights stayed on. Luckily I keep a Haynes book in the car so I looked up the fuse numbers and pulled the first one out. One of t...

Superb!

Good quality part delivered next day. Jules has certainly got my recommendation.

I'll join in and say that I've just done a similar repair on mine. Started off with a smallish hole that I could just get my fingers through, and ended up with most of the inner outer arch cut out. Made up a new piece and welded it in over a weekend, not all that pretty, but when it was undersealed ...

Hi,

Could I have a price for part number 41 14 1 972 592

Thanks.

When I did the rear brakes on mine, my brother got some from a local hydraulic platform company.
IIRC it cost about £70 for enough to do the front-to-rear line and all the rear lines.

Sounds like a good bit of advice, thanks!

Guess I'd better book some time with my welder then...

Brake lines have already been done - didn't need to drop the tank, replaced front-to-rear and all rear lines with braided lines.

Well having never welded in my life before, it's probably going to be a job for my brother. He definately won't do it with the tank and filler pipe in place!

As an alternative, would it be acceptable to rivet a piece in place? Just a thought, this might not even be possible..

I thought that was going to be the only option. I was thinking of removing the filler pipe and capping off the tank somehow. Or is still going to be too close for safety?

I got a little rust problem.. When I took it for it's MOT in August I could feel a small (50p) size hole inside the wheel arch. Passed MOT no problem. I had a little time yesterday to look at it properly, and large bits just crumbled away :eek: The front mounting for the bottle disintegrated as well...

I changed the coolant in my 325 today. Thought I'd do it the proper way for a change and drain by removing the block drain plug. This came undone surpisingly easily given that I've never undone it before! The plug is a lot shorter than I expected, is this how it should be or have I lost a bit someho...

I used a pair of large mole grips on a socket, and the allen key down the centre of the socket.
Worked a treat

Due to some potential rubbing issues, I'm needing to raise the rear of my car (325) slightly, and also limit the suspension travel to less than standard. I'm curently running MTec springs all round. I understand I can get a thicker lower spring pad, this might raise it by 5mm (depending what pad is ...

Just received a steering rack from Marc. Just got to wait for dry weather to get it fitted

I'd definately buy from him again.

I got a set of lock plates from BMW but couldn't work out how they fit at all, so I got another set from ECP - completely different and fitted perfectly!

I'd get the proper lock plates, they're only pence..

Probably alot more secure than threadlock too!

A nut, really?

And yes I do know it's on the steering rack! Actually I think I'd describe it as a bolt, rather than a nut.

I did wonder if it was a drain plug, but I've never seen it mentioned on here to use when someone wants to change their PAS fluid? Would seem an obvious answer though.

Just curious as to what this does, or what's behind it?
I can't find any reference to it anywhere.

Search found 172 matches

Re:

Re: E34 touring vs E39 touring

Re: E34 touring vs E39 touring

Re: E34 touring vs E39 touring

E34 touring vs E39 touring

Re: Missfire on one cylinder

Re: Missfire on one cylinder

Missfire on one cylinder

Re: Cambelt change

Re: Cambelt change

Re: Cambelt change

Re: Cambelt change

Re: Cambelt change

Re: Cambelt change

Cambelt change

Re: HIDs not switching off

Re: HIDs not switching off

HIDs not switching off

Re:

Re:

Wheelhouse outer

Re: SS braided hose. Where to buy please

Re: Rust..

Re: Rust..

Re: Rust..

Re: Rust..

Rust..

Block coolant drain plug

Re: Front susp top mount damper nut tightening problem

Rear spring pads

Re:

Re: Tie Rod Assembly - Loctite or Lock washer?

Re: Tie Rod Assembly - Loctite or Lock washer?

Re: What's this then?

What's this then?