E30 Zone

could be an air leak, try spraying around the inlet manifold gasket with wd40 or similar whilst its running, if you have an air leak it will pick up the "dead" cylinder when the wd gets sucked in. faulty injector is anotehr possibility

from memory you cant knock outer cvs off like on a fwd car, take the end cover off the inner cv, then your find a circlip, remove that and take the inner cv joint off

ok, that link didnt work, it runs an m20, bored and stroked to 2860cc, schrick 300 degree cam, triple 45 jenveys, emerald ecu, it had zero mileage on it when we rolling roaded it, so we only took it to 6900rpm, where it made 267bhp and was still climbing

ive had a 4 year break from racing but i have a new car nearly ready to go, so im back here again

hopefully a quick snippet of recent rolling road session

https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php/v3 ... -deijE.gif

dont! the 1800 m10's with there smaller capacity and short stroke dont like lumpy cams, it woudl be better on a pair of 40's but even then you wil have the small port head which really strangles airflow without truely extensive head work. i hate to say it but you really are better swapping to a bigg...

typically the injectors get stuck in both the manifold and fuel rail due to the tight fit of the o rings, i prefer to leave them in the rail, and remove the whole lot from the manifold by spraying the base of the injectors with wd40 and wriggling them around, that usually breaks the seal that forms ...

s14 and m10 blocks are very similar but not the same, s14 has an extra oil drain at the back, so if you tried to fit an s14 head on an m10 it would leak oil all over the place, i've had the same issue in reverse when using an m10 head on an s14 block and had to plug the hole in the block. the really...

use wd40 instead

i agree, the prices for the company i meant seem a little high, but i bought one off them earlier this year when i needed one in a hurry, and to be fair to them it was described as being new/perfect, although had been used, well i stripped it because i wanted to increase the number of plates in it, ...

for what its worth there isnt a dramatic difference between using a 3.9 and 4.1 diff, it will feel livelier on the 4.1, but the 3.9 is a nicer ratio for every day driving, as each gear will have a wider range of mph that it will cover. even with 275bhp from my s14 in a race car over a lap theres ver...

lots of lines on above graph, thats high and low boost settings

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2.2 litre m10 turbo, schrick 284 cam, t34 turbo

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2.4litre s14 turbo, 2.3 215bhp top end, custom pistons, t38 turbo, huge intercooler and not much boost!

spikes in graph low down was a gearchange.

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2.0 m10, ported 121 head 12.1 cr, lester owen reduced overlap 336 cam, 45mm jenveys

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/9318/26s14.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us two for the price of one here! the lower powered graph was my 240bhp 2.5 litre m10, custon accratlie pistons in a 2.5 s14 bottom end, m10 121 head 12.1CR schrick 336 cam, 50mm jenvey throttle bodies. upper powered graph is ...

is the car a pure track car? or road and track. in my view a good budget starting point would be 400lb front springs, thicker front ARB, the whiteline one is reasonably priced, get some eccentric bushes on the front arms, to give more caster (gives you a lot of the advantage of increasing neg camber...

best swap the whole trailing arm, i bet your find someone took the bulb out the abs

unfortunatly practically nothing will interchange between e21 and e30

the handbrake lever must not be exerting pressure on the master cylinder rod when the handbrakes off or it will hold the brake on

most likely you havnt got any free play on the pushrod, so the master isnt returning fully, that would make it act like a one way valve

no because m20 and m30 bellhousing have different (but similar looking) bolt patterns

Pictures of this vacuum line, and car mileage. The pierberg 2BE carb is a pile of crap. It as electronic idle, electronic choke and electronic 2nd barrell, so I expect it's one of those playing up. You're best off spending £300 and getting the Weber replacement carb, a DMTL32/34, which is designed ...

i never said it was cheap!

its difficult to put a price on it, lots of bits that went into the engine i already had.
given an m3 block i could probably replicate it for £4k

machining the front cover is straight forward for a half decent engineer with a milling machine.

as for power the extra cc will help, a lot depends on your cam choice but with a fast road cam and a bit of head work 150bhp should be easy.

i built a race 2.5 litre m10 it pushed out 240bhp!

2.0 and 1.8 use the same rods, the stroke difference is made up using the piston compression height

martin hunniball rebuilt my box last year and had no trouble getting syncros

IMHO the easiest way to bleed an E30 clutch is to remove the slave cyl, hold it vertical with the nipple at the top, open the nipple, sqweeze the pushrod in, shut the nipple let go of the pushrod, that will then extend on its own drawing fresh fluid through, open the nipple again and push the pushro...

in short yes

ta, actually just found them with a google search, at least c3 price is vat inclusive

i fitted a pair on my circuit race car, and did i notice the difference?

yeah to my wallet and thats about it

anyone know of an alternative supplier for s14 tensioner blades, can get them from bmw but they want about £400 for the pair

i've got a 4.27 in mine, i robbed the crownwheel and pinion from a E34 518

assuming when you checked the tyres you also checked the pressures the next step would be to get the wheel alignment checked

worth knowing

leaking inlet manifold gaskets are common, try spraying the manifold ports with wd40 with the engine running, if the gaskets are leaking the engine idle will chance

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