E30 Zone

I'll be going with one for sure if the car doesnt sell this week.. 900+ Vat for the system.

Cheers man, dont worry about that PM, i'll try that number tomorrow.

Cheers!

I called a "predator exhausts" the other day, and they said that it must of been a 1 off for a customer? Perhaps i got the wrong predator? The number posted on the other page doesnt work...

Can these predator systems still be bought?

Column looks cool as. Any Info?

Cheers

Sorry for the late reply, i used the traditional M5 mounts, modified to be stiffer.

Ive been told, by a person who actually had an S50 powered E30 and was driving it at an event that i was at, that on his car he used the E36 subframe complete. That would allow you to use the stock sump setup. Other people on the internet have told me its not possible however... But that pic would l...

Id probably sell my S50 E30 setup for about 2k. It needs an exhaust system (just seen those predator ones for £1100 for the complete system, manifold back) and some fault finding as it has a small running issue. Its currently fitted to my car..

I spaced the ARB down, modified the firewall and ran treehouse racing lollypops to clear the manifold, but the manifold sits too low so the bottom flanges will need cutting off and welding higher up, unless your car is mega high.

I did yeah.. Changed the o-ring on the back of the m/c, as it was split, still no brakes. I think its new servo time.

That lower cross member is made of tinfoil anyway, that bar is probably alot stronger than original box section.

I've been moving into a new house so been a bit busy with that, so i only just managed to finish the work on the manifold and brakes today, so i guess its up and running! I havent driven it yet, but it still has the initial bogging problem but im bored of trying to sort it, just gonna either use the...

Just crank the engine loads to make pressure before starting?

Bah, how annoying. The car runs, drives and its quite quick from what i can tell (the brake servo is broken so i cant really go for a proper rip) but on quick blips of the throttle from idle it bogs/floods out. It ldles quite well too, stable and consistant. I've changed the MAF, the TPS, new Lambda...

Part number says its from a CSL, but production of that part ended and its replacement is the usual M3/M5/Z3/Z4 TPS from across the range... So it should be the same basically.

Only driven it cold with the TPS dis-connected, and the drive was much improved aside from the lack of pace, but TPS has such an affect on the way the car runs that i cant say if the air temp sensor has affected much, but as you say, its gotta help. Found a TPS too, just checked the resistance on it...

Not checked MAF yet but had a bingo moment earlier.. The car hesitates/stumbles and can start to drop off when pumping the pedal at low rpm and slight throttle input at low rpm.. Was just playing around, unplugged TPS and it instantly ran better, clean revving etc but shoddy idle speed. Went for a d...

Just fitted two new Bosch Lambdas, gonna double, tripple check they are in the correct banks and check they have power etc., I can swap the MAF for known good one off my other M3 and see how if it alters, will check resistance etc on the blue sensor too.

Cheers man, thanks for the help!

I might have a pulley, im not sure if i threw my S50 pump away or not (it was faulty). If the pulley is OK i could send it out?

Yeah B30. My temp guage seems to sit at a quarter too, or there abouts.. Certainly not higher anyway. So with the B30, i should be left with the Blue Sensor for the DME and the Black Sensor is replaced with the M20 1 pin jobbie? Thats how i have it at the moment.. Its running quite rich particularly...

Anyone? I just searched an read this... "the 'black' one needs to stay. its sends information to the ecu. you can screw the m20 brown sensor into the water manifold next to the black one. theres an 'allen' bolt there that you can remove and replace with the m20 sensor. then take the brown/purple wir...

Not much use to you now i bet, but i put an M50 plump on my S50. Its slightly different, but nothing a slight re-adjustment of the top powersteering hose/banjo wont sort.

Anyone experienced weak brake power after moving the cylinder over? Im not sure what the score is but initial brake power feels fine but the power doesnt increase as the brake pedal is depressed further, just stays the same and is quite weak.. Im not sure if the master cylinder is being pressed in f...

Heater blows fine, didnt check the door mirrors.

As a side note, my fuel reserve warning light comes on really soon compared to before too.

As above! I parked the car up, did an S50 conversion and just went to drive it but the brake lights dont work and the windows dont work. They did before the conversion, but i dont recall faffing with anything relating to that?

Thoughts?

You can tap downwards with the spanner slightly to the right (as you look above the fan) on the spanner with a hammer and that is sometimes enough to un-do the nut... Sometimes not. lol.

Hi Guys,

Looking for confirmation on my car, i have replaced the black S50 water temp sensor with the brown 1 pin from the M20/E30 and left the blue sender alone, as per stock S50B30.

Is this correct? Im not sure if my temp guage is working correctly or if my thermostat is bad...

Thanks

Dont Evo's need 5 bar fuel pressure? And walbro's run 3 bar?

Yep, runs now

DME was dead, after loads of checking and arsing about looking elsewhere for faults.

Crank Shaft Sensor reads 550 Ohms or so..
Cam Shaft Sensor EXH Side reads 1220 Ohms or so..
Cam Shaft Sensor IN Side reads nothing, no Ohms.

Would point towards a dead Cam sensor, but dont know if this would stop the car from running..

It wasnt the cause. I stupidly had the power connector that lives by the three (five) main relays connected to the body as i thought it was earth.. I pulled the sheeth back to see a red wire :eek: Shit balls. So anyway, it cranks now but wont start. Im concerned that putting that power lead to earth...

Hmm the main white relay on the E36 loom wasnt clicking when i tested it the first time.. A few tests later, and a double check that my makeshift test wires were on again and it started clicking/has continuity... Lets hope that is the cause?

Red label on DME.....................

Hi guys, Tried firing up my S50 swap tonight, no joy, doesnt crank. I know the starter is good as i've bridged out the Relay and i can get the engine to crank. Basically there is 12v to the feed of the Starter Relay when the key is turned (the thiner black and yellow wire) but nothing comes through ...

I reckon thats a US S50 into an E30 M3 diagram? Wonder how relevant it is?? I've read that an S50 can run off about 4/5 wires alone so i imagine as long as the main ones are covered youre good to go..

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