E30 Zone

I have a cold start problem. I have a 316 -83 (1756cc) carburettor engine. Well I have been investigating around the carburettor and have found some interesting stuff. I have taken some pictures. What is this thing? It just hangs loose next to the carburettor. It has two hoses connected to it. Hoses...

I just did my track-rod ends. But there was nothing wrong with the inner arms. But if you change the inner ones... change the track-rod ends as well. IMPORTANT: Don't buy original track-rod ends... they cost 100$ each. I bought them from a car-suply company in Scandinavia for 20$.

[quote="Zayyan"]Osram Silverstar

[quote]

I have a Osram factory just a few miles from where I live... I don't need to import them from another country when they are made in my own!

Yes... but I don't think it's the friction disc. I didn't feel a hard clutch when there was nothing left of mine. Might be a dry and filthy release bearing. Might be the pilot-bearing too... but I will not conclude anything about that bearing since I have no experiense. Change the fluids first. You ...

I can't afford xenon. Then my question is wish bulb is the best of the best bulbs? Is it GE SuperBlue, Osram CoolBlue or Philips BlueVision? Philips is allmost twice as expensive as GE.. and Osram is in the middle. Anyone with any experience? Who sells the bulbs? Shell sell Philips and Esso Osram......

It's missing chapter 7 and 8. Muhahaha... had the same file... someone took snapshots of the missing pages for me... Mine is complete

Mine driver side window too. But mine is manual. I can open it half open but if I wan't it totaly open I have to open the door. The same when closing. I'm going to have a look at it when it is a bit varmer outside. My worries these days are the EU-inspection of the car (it has to be approved before ...

I have just found the spoiler unrepairable. There is to much truble for you guys to send me one of your spare spoilers. If you don't live in Norway offcourse. I'll order a used one from the car-wreck-yard... as soon as I get my next student loan income. I'll ask if they have new emblems for me at th...

My black front spoiler on my car is broken in to some plastic pieces. This happened when I ended up in the ditch. It's an easy fix... but I have to use a plastic piece on the back og the spoiler a few places... and drill some wood-screwes trough it.. and cut the ends that come out on the front with ...

Are not most exoust except the excoust that come with the BMW from the factory stainless steel? I think mine is steel and not iron... Not sure if it's stainless though...

Brianmoooore wrote:The choke mechanism and the idle stabilization are the two common problems that affect the Pierburg.
Standard procedure is to replace with a kit made by Webber.

hmm.. where do I get this webber-kit?

I don't have idle problems... when the car starts the engine keep running. But my choke don't work. I have to take off the airfilter and lid and pour some fuel in the carburettor top to start it. If I have someone with me he just has too hold the choked closed... and it starts.

Brianmoooore wrote:Fully agree with the above. If this is the original Pierburg carb, this is likely to be well worn by now as well.

The car milage (scandinavian miles) is only 154256kilometers. I don't think it's worn. And there is no problem except that I can't figure why the choke won't close.

Adjusted the ignition timing today... Now it's fine :). Cleaned the plugs too... each plug had a 3mm thick cox layer on them. The new clutch is fine too! REALY fine! I noticed some sharp steering though... changed the track-rod ends a while ago... but have not driven the car since then. I'm having i...

you shouldn't have needed to disconnect the clutch slave anyway, unless it was knackered?! agree with gav, sounds like an igniton problem, a new dizzy cap cured this same problem on my m535i. I did not diconnect the slave more than taking it off the transmission... and that is necessary if you are ...

My car is a E30 316, -83, (1756cc) M10-engine, carburettor, 2-d saloon. I have just changed the clutch friction-disc, flywheel and release bearing. There was nothing friction material left on the disc :P . I have put the car back on the ground from the axel-stands. But I did not bleed the clutch fir...

There is nothing... As the matter a fact everything is centered pritty cool.. I'm not shure I wan't to but in a clock or an OBC there. I'll post a picture tomorrow when I have been in the garage where my car is.. I just came in the door.. been on a long easter holliday

I forgot to mention that it should not be used on cars with above 2.0l engine. Or diesel engines.

Here something you might find helpfull. I don't know where you can buy this outside scandinavia... It is called a Startloop. You just plug it in the cigarett-output and wait for a beep and turn the ignition. After starting the car... leave it in the cigarett-output until it beeps again. Now you got ...

Hi... thanks! Could I just use this cluster and just change the rev counter? I would realy like to keep the trip-counter. Do you know if the SI-bord is easy accessable when changing the rev-counter... might swap out the batteries when allready in there messing around...

Two questions. My car is a E30 316 (1756cc) 4-speed Salon M10-engine. It does not have an injection system. The car has a carburettor. I don't have the common clock in my car as you can see in the picture further down (a yellow arrow is pointing at it). The problem with the clock is that it slows do...

I have just changed the frictiondisc wich was wared entirely out. I bought a LuK clutch-kit. There was not much problem changing the stuff. I did not have any strange noises or low bite point when mine was wared out. I just had problems getting uphill. The speed decreased to just 20-30 kilometers pe...

Could this be a cracked aliminium-head?

if you think changing the springs is a lot of work, you wanna try putting these on your springs in the wheel arch! belive me, it easier to change the springs mate! you need two spanners and you can only turn them half a turn at at time as theres no room (this is if you do it with the shocks still f...

bullitt wrote:Check out these pages..

http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... pic&t=4965

They will give you an idea how to fit lowering springs..

Thanks! I know the front springs are a pity!!

bullitt wrote:Why bother.. A secondhand set of -40mm springs will cost you Ãƒ”šÃ‚£40..

False economy i think!!

Yes... so it is... but it is still a lot of work... and I'm renewing the shocks too this fall. Maybe not all four shocks.

My plan is to buy a lowering kit.. with spring and maybe shocks. But my budget won't allow me that before fall. But these I can afford... And it might keep me cool for the summer. http://www.klasserom.net/39/elev3918/senkestrammeretemp.JPG Anyone got any experience with these? How much lower will th...

How old is that car? That chassis-rust problem are worse than on my 316 -83. Keep up the good work!

It's the 2B4 carburettor. Yeah.. your right the car smokes a LOT... I was wondering about that... But the that did not count when I had the car on environmental-control (part of European-Union rules). It wen't trough the control with no faults. It's syntetic-oil... I just bought the car.. and that w...

They are even made of plastic these days. I don't know if the original is though.

My 1983 316 1756cc (Carb) 4-speed won't start unless it's realy hot outside... It has to be as warm as a warm engine. If I pour petrol straight in the carburettor the car starts easy. Even if it's -30C outside and no engine warmer. It's a real pain to have to open the hood and pour fuel in every tim...

I don't think its the fluids....

Search found 32 matches

Cold start/carburettor problem

Headlights bulbs.

White front spoiler!

Clutch bleed and mis-fire.

Re: Check this out

Check this out

O'clock / VDO

Lowering... but not entirely yet!

yes they are like that...

Cold start problem

You probebly need a new friction disc