E30 Zone

I got my local garage to replace hardline front to back, charged me £100 all in.

Coasting as in not in gear? if so no, mine only seems to do it when in gear with my foot on the accelerator. No, I meant just driving along slowly in traffic in say 2nd or 3rd gear, whereupon it will develop a juddering/shunting, making it awkward to drive smoothly. Ahh. Then no, it's a seperate is...

Coasting as in not in gear? if so no, mine only seems to do it when in gear with my foot on the accelerator.

The rev counter behaves as normal, as if it's reving through the range as normal. The speedo also seems normal but does not tie in with the rev counter (if that makes sense) so, if my revs are at what I should be doing at 40 in say second I'm actually traveling at more like 20.

Would the engine still rev normally if it was a dodgy spark? It's an M40 btw if it makes any difference.

I'm having a really bizarre experience with my car atm that's kinds hard to explain. Basically the car revs but intermitantly the drive isn't there. It's a rapid on/off sensation as if I'm rapidly dipping the clutch in and out. The engine revs like it should though and it seems to run perfectly fine...

Have you flooded the engine? I had a similar problem a couple of winters ago and after much fannying about found the plugs were soaked in fuel. Removed all the plugs, turned the engine over without the fuel pump fuse in (number 11 iirc), wiped the plugs down and dried them with a blow torch to warm ...

town325i wrote:Ive reused them all i did was heat the bush up with boiling water and held the lolly pop bit in a vice and plenty of huffing and puffing and lots of swearing the arm came out of the bush

Sounds very similar to the method you used to get mine in the other day! Minus the washing up liquid ofc

Mark has just done some work on my suspension.

Great bloke and a great price.

Cheers buddy!

Ant

Mate the MPG meter on the dash is a rough guide at best. I wouldn't consider it anywhere near accurate. Best to consider it as more of a general guide than a true performance indicator.

Looks good to me.

I'll probably not be able to attend again due to work mind. But it looks good!

Mind you if I've got enough notice maybe I can book it off now that I've got passed my first couple of weeks newbie-ness.

IF you're brave you could probably get a socket on a longe extension bar over the top of it once you've removed the plug iirc it's a 17mm nut. Basically it's a screw out, screw in job but you might have to drain the the head of coolent first. (not 100% on that though) If you're not feeling brave you...

I used a plastic primer and a laquer to get a nice tidy, durable finish.

It looks like I may have to miss this because of work. Gutted.

d6dph wrote:Live and let live, as above they won't be "good" examples anyway. And it bumps up the value of every other cab as there is a few less on the road

Sums it up nicely tbf.

Test the bearings by jacking up the rear and giving the wheel a bloody good shake. Any movement generally means you've got a shot bearing.

Under the throttle body

I've done mine in hammerite and it's still ok, been on the car about two months and survived a long drive to cornwall.

No I understand what you're getting at but I had got it stuck in my head

that they're off a 5 series and not a 3.

A quick google seems to suggest E46 models are the favoured source of canibalized motors etc.

I'm pretty sure they were on a 5 series?

The front console definately needs to come out. I also found it easier to undo the brake linkage to get at the screw. I took the carpet out to clean it and dry it off too and took the oportunity to generally have a good tidy up around the dash area wiring etc after some butcher had fitted the stereo...

I had a horrible screeching noise when I rebuilt my engine, turned out one of the bolts in the belt cover had worked loose and was rubbing on the rear of the crank pully!

Sounds like the valve on your heater matrix has gone mate. That green fluid is engine coolant.

Have a read through this thread as I had the same issue earlier in the year:

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... highlight=

Are electric pop outs not a mod done using E34 parts hence the BM part numbers?

Try popping (ha ha) them into OEM and seeing what models they are spec'd on.

I think Brian's trying to tell you the motor has failed so you'll need to replace it. Unfortunately it sounds like it will be a PIA to do as you'll have to basically take the whole of the door apart to do it.

Just picked up some wheels with tyres from Bob at a bargin price, couldn't be happier with the deal and he's a really nice chap. Good luck with what ever seats you decide on bud

What time dude?

1. Banjo1981

Brought some bits after Jake responded to a wanted ad,

Received in good order, fast time and secure packaging. Would defo deal again.

Items arrived today in excelent condition. Cunning use of insulating wall paper!

Thanks again, top bloke to deal with.

Really? a company down the road from me quoted £60 for a skim and test. I thought that was pretty cheap tbh.

You should have good results with a G-clamp and a couple of blocks of wood. It's a bodge that's worked well for me in the past.

I'll bow to your experience on this one town. reminds me actually, keep meaning to talk to you about a bit of welding.

It'd only really need a skim if it's overheated I would think, if it's had no temp issues prior to the gasket going then I'd say you'd get away with it. Although I'd visually check the face for any obvious defects/cracks etc. just to be on the safe side.

If you're just going to change the gasket should take about half a day I would think since you're not really stripping it down much.

Just don't forget to buy new head bolts.

It allows you to adjust the vertical aim of your dipped beam lights. If you have the original adjusters then everything is on your car bar the E36 motors, the resistor, and the spare blower switch housing (you should be able to get one from a zone trader although I only used it because I had one han...

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