E30 Zone

If I remove one of the C Locking solenoids should the others still work? Or are all the solenoids on one circuit that if broken will not work?

I swapped out one solenoid and sure enough the new one worked. I've got a set of used ones on the way now from Chris Warburton so hopefully I'll get the job done the coming weekend.

Thanks for your help on this, Brian. You're a star

OK, I thought as much.

Do you know how they're fixed/connected?

Connect a 12 volt bulb across the red/black wire and brown wire at the locking ECU's plug. It should light at full brightness. Does it stay at full brightness when you operate the locks? I put the circuit tester across the red/black and brown wires. It showed 12v and dipped a little - maybe 1v max ...

Brianmoooore wrote:Connect a 12 volt bulb across the red/black wire and brown wire at the locking ECU's plug.

When you say the 'locking ECU plug' do you mean the white plastic one that plugs into the relay?

I'll get to this early next week as I'm 70 miles from my circuit tester right now

So I put the new relay in. It clicks* when I operate the lock button but the C Locking is not activated.

So, where next?

(*One of the little coil things is actuated by this, as I took a look with the electronics outside the plastic box.)

Brianmoooore wrote:You should have a look at the sill drain slots as well!

I felt down inside where the relay sits and all was dry, which was a bit baffling. I reckon the relay was facing upwards and got an unlucky flooding from the sunroof drains in the recent wet/snowy/thaw weather.

When I got the old barrel out the micro switch the barrel works against was stuck down.

Anyway, latest news is the relay was full of water and burnt out beyond repair.

So, now I'll get another relay and see where that gets me.

So I got the barrel out (what a f*king game that was!) and put a new one in but the problem's still the same. IE, I can turn the key thru 45degrees to unlock it, but have to lock the driver's door by pressing down the inside lock button before closing the door. All that happens when I turn the key i...

Brianmoooore wrote:Flip the big C clip off with a long screwdriver , through the hole provided in the inner skin, and just pull the barrel assembley out.

How easy is it to get the C clip back on? I just want to know before I start the job so I can 'reverse' out of it if need be

It won't do the 45deg 'open' movement. It only goes 90deg to the 'mechanical' open posn. This is usually the L shaped alloy piece on the back of the lock barrel seized up, and not toggling from side to side as it should. Any tips on how to get the barrel out? There's not much room in the door space...

If you've been working on the locking and operating it many times in quick succession, you will have been stressing the thermal overload inside the locking ECU, so there's a chance this has popped. If so, there will be no activity from the electric locking whatsoever, so could be worth checking. If...

and the relay is fine, AFAIK. What makes you think this? Because the main problem has been getting the lock to work correctly mechanically. Over the course of a few weeks, when I have been able to make the key turn properly, the electrical part of the process has gone from intermittent to not worki...

My central locking has packed up. The car has the red-black mod, and the relay is fine, AFAIK. This seems to be a problem with the locking mechanism in the door. Is there a common fault with the switching system operated by the lock? Can something go wrong with the mechanical action of turning the k...

So, last night my central locking broke. Symptoms: Key difficult to turn. Not activating the electrics when turned. When turned full to left key stuck in lock, difficult to turn back to 'upright' position. Doors other than driver's will only open individually. I think it's something to do with the l...

I changed my brake pads a couple of months ago and all of a sudden the dotted line warning light is flicking on. Is there a sensor reset, or even a way of disabling the thing?

So, most of the time when moving the temp needle sits just below half, which is where it should be AFAIK. Then when I am stopped or moving slowly in traffic for a while the needle starts to creep up towards 3/4 and I get worried and get the heater and fan on which brings it under control. What could...

I was put in touch with Andrew at WLN on another thread and got recommended two places: Auto mirage 01253 734743 and Motortune 01253 696206. It's going to Auto Mirage for the mech work and I'm going to ask them about the odd bits of body work I want done then. Cheers for the replies, fellahs. We've ...

Ask Andrew, would be my call http://www.wlnautomotive.co.uk/contact.cfm Thanks. Andrew came up with 2 recommendations very nearby and the Touring is booked in :) The place I'm taking it also has a good reputation for body work so that'll be that sorted too - Auto mirage 01253 734743 in case anyone ...

Can anyone recommend a good body shop in NW Lancs? Preston, Lytham, Blackpool - that kind of area

cheers

Anyone have any recommendations for a mechanic in Lytham/Blackpool/Preston areas?

I need a bunch of stuff doing (cam belt/w pump/thermostat/exhaust back box) and don't have the time or facilities to do it myself

Cheers

Hi mate, could you give me a price and availability on this? It's for a 1989 325i

regards

Spion

Anyone know a good body shop in the Bradford (and/or Blackpool) areas?

I need little rust on one sill sorting and a few bits of touching up/stone scratches sorting

Thanks

The viscous fan spaners they sell in Halfords have a bend in them. Will they get to the nut on the e30 viscous fan?

That looks v useful. Ta, mate

zimmer-320i wrote:yer id like to know to, bhp gains of 0.01 dont you know

That's not what I'm after. My touring has gone thru two viscous fan couplings in less than 2 years

I've seen them for 30-ish quid (Pacet and other makes). What's involved in fitting one?

How much is an electric fan conversion and what's involved?

This has happened in town traffic and motorway driving. Yep. I said that on Oct 12th. At that point I hadn't got caught in a traffic jam. A few days ago I did, and this is what I said on Oct 23 . . . . During m'way driving it'll go up to near 3/4, spend a lot of time between 1/2 and 3/4 and sometim...

I think I need a new viscous coupling.

Where's the best place to get one from?

Do they vary in quality according to manufacturer?

Brianmoooore wrote:Overheating in traffic/town driving only is most likely caused by a duff viscous coupling. Overheating when driving normally is not.

Overheating in town traffic IS what's happening, so am I better to go for the viscous coupling first?

The fan coupling has no relevance at speed, so if the problem occurs during motorway driving, we can discount it for the moment. If the gauge needle makes sudden jumps, then it has to be an electrical fault, as the temperature sensor can only respond relatively slowly, even if there were sudden cha...

Tighten the small brass nut on the back of the instrument cluster, directly behind the temp. gauge. Report back if this does not solve the problem. Done. Still have overheating issues. Nearly got into the red yesterday and the needle is still up and down a bit. I have since bled the cooling system ...

Freezer spray and big grips did the trick

Had to toghten it down hard to stop weeping after bleeding tho

I need to loosen the thermostat bleed screw but it is stuck sollid and rounding off. I've tried swearing at it, and have applied some WD40.

If it's stuck fast how can I get it out?

Or is there another point I can bleed the cooling system?

Search found 68 matches

C Locking Question

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Re: Central locking problem - not relay tho

Central locking problem - not relay tho

C locking borked - any ideas?

Brake warning light on - why?

Cooling issue - 325i

Re: Garage in Lancs?

Re: Body shop in NW Lancs?

Body shop in NW Lancs?

Garage in Lancs?

Hose - AFM to throttle body 325i

Bodyshop recs - Bradford, Blackpool????

Viscous fan spanner

Re: Electric fan conversion - how much, what's involved?

Re: Electric fan conversion - how much, what's involved?

Electric fan conversion - how much, what's involved?

Re: Viscous coupling - where from?

Re: Cooling issue

Viscous coupling - where from?

Re: Cooling issue

Re: Cooling issue

Re: Cooling issue

Re:

Thermostat bleed screw stuck solid - any ideas