E30 Zone

get a length of brake pipe and thread a bike gear cable thru it and solder the end of the brake cable to the brake pipe so theres a loop on the end. bar the top of the door open so you can get the brake pipe down. get the loop around the lock knob pull on the cable to tighten the loop around it and ...

well done rob. glad this car found a good home!

looks ace with the black bonnet.

yeah it would be dragging in air. effectivly the same as taking off the oil cap affecting the idle.

i literally threw my e21 dizzy down the garden, along with the horrid solex carb. and im not kidding.

thanks! i converted the old e21 320/6 engine using 320i motronic bits from an 89 2 door e30. http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/murran01/motronicswap2010.jpg didnt stop the old 320/6 engine burning sh1t loads of oil tho. 325i lump followed shortly after. http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/...

nope, youd have had no drive to the oil pump then. the hexagonal rod that drives the oil pump slots into the bottom of the dizzy cog/shaft. theres a cog on the later engines that drops onto the rod and theres a little bearing in the bung providing support for it. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...

they tend to seize in place ally and steel next to each other for 25 years etc..... leave it soaking in wd40 over night and then try tapping it round with a hammer and chizel. have you got the face lift bung and the oil pump drive cog to fit in its place?? http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa91/mur...

i had to fit a new tank when i bought mine. gauranteed no sh1t in it.

my old touring 325i did 32-36 miles round town with the light on before it physically ran out. yep i did it twice just to check. had full can of fuel on me both times. so a safe bet would be no more than 25 miles.

have you heard boyracers ticking over at 1300rpm pete? im sure the top ring seal is missing off the breather tube under the inlet manifold. i cant see any other air leak on it and it must be a huge leak to cause it to idle that fast.

does taking the oil cap off while its running effect the idle. taking it off introduces an air leak and should effect the idle. if it doesnt then you had an air leak before, so it makes no difference introducing another 1. if you have an air leak then it needs finding and fixing! clean out the throt...

your doing well! get out there while the weathers good and get on with it! nice work!

yeah thats what i ment lol. x20? cool thanks.

does anyone know what the code name of the plug is for the equivilent c101 plug on an e30?
trying to work some wiring sh1t from diagrams out for someone doing an e21 m50 conversion.

the clues in the name of the "idle stabilisation valve"..... the throttle body flap stop (not letting it close completely) provides the air to support the idle speed. the isv really is a non-entity, meaning its not really needed at normal idle, with no electrical loads on the engine it shouldnt be o...

even if you did have it jigged and repaired (new chassis leg etc) itd never be the same again. its not worth it if you cant return it to pre-accident condition.

send them adverts for similar cabs in similar condition and your service history too!

and here i was thinking it was pretty pointless porting these things.... if i ever need to take my head off i'll be doing some port matching and having a go at porting my head! ive done it before about 6 years ago when i rebuilt a mk2 golf 16v engine for my scirocco. never got it in my car tho, sold...

in the mot testing guide theres a failure item; "exhaust is unreasonably noisy when compared with a similar vehicle with a standard exhaust system in reasonable condition." the advisory is "exhaust noisy". ive never failed a noisy exhaust but have used the advisory a few times (mostly to cover my as...

drain the oil out first!

best way is to undo the engine mounts. get your engine crane out or use your support beam thing to lift/hold the engine up as far as it will lift up off the mounts. best way of getting the room needed.

i'll fight you for the bid button! NOT!

see more evidence that these bmw buses are inherintley reliable. its the soft squidgey humans working on them that cause all the problems!

rear beam bushes?

well that sounds fine.

sorry i wasnt able to come down, i got dragged to meadowhell insted.

with mine above 2k it wouldnt have had enough "time" on the compression stroke to lose the compression thru the valve before the spark plug fired. below 2k it did, but even at idle when you pulled the plug lead off (with insulated pliars i might add!) it still made a difference to the idle speed, so...

if it has split, meerly pulling the pipe off and cranking it over will show if fuel p1sses out.

might pop down in the morning for a chin wag if its not bloody raining!

when i first rebuilt the 325i head on my old touring, it had a low engine speed misfire, low tickover. couldnt work it out, plenty of power with no missing above 2k. did a comp test and one of them was like 50 psi. thought eh? took it back apart, with the head upside down, did the old wd40 pooled in...

has anyone worked out why valves break like this? is it purly fatigue?

air leak would cause a high idle surly. id check the compressions too.
if youve got 6 cyl. contributing to an idle of 800 rpm say. if your a cylinder down then your 133 rpm down. ticking over at 666 rpm or there abouts......

doing a nice job there. well done!

not common really, but ive seen it a couple of times on other cars.

possible oil contamination? was there any oil in the bell housing/discolouration on the old clutch friction plate? gearbox input shaft could be leaking into the clutch?
crank seal leaks tend to miss the clutch spinning clear of it off the back of the pressure plate.

top bell housing bolts, do last after removing everthing else. jack under the sump.... remove the n/s engine mounting "leg" (or both) drop the jack down and the gap between the back of the head and the baulkhead increases by about an inch. enough room so you can get a 19mm spanner with another hooke...

no im sure if you have a test before its due to expire and it fails then this superceeds your excisting cert. giving you the standard 10 working days to fix it and re-test it. an mot test pass is no proof of vehicle condition thruout the year. its the vehicles owner resopncibilty to keep the vehicle...

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